DJKOR

LOL. I think this is a sign. TOYOTA AURION SPORTIVO PARCEL SHELF

It is possible. You use what is called a line out converter, or a high to low converter. They simply tap into your front or rear speakers and convert it to an RCA pair. They can cost anywhere between $25 to a couple of hundred. For subwoofer purposes, you'd be fine with one anywhere between $25 and $50. Edit: Also, depending on what amp you have, you may not need one. Some amplifiers have high level inputs which will essentially do what you need. Don't trust the ones that accept high level inputs through the RCA in though (such as the one on my MTX). Nearly blew up my sub like that.

After hearing all that, I just HAD to go on a search for that thread because I could remember such a thing being mentioned as well. A little bit of searching, and here we go: What does this button do? Either he got this photo from elsewhere and is lying, or that is the same one. I dunno. Hey there, No dont work for Toyota. But my Dad did for 40 years and I've owned toyotas all my life. It was really just luck I guess. I ordered mine the week they were released. (September 07). They were released on a Tuesday and I ordered it on the Thursday night. When I ordered it the dealer looked up to see if any of my colour were currently on the production line. He said there wasn't so it would be a month or so as they were only producing them in batches. Then about a week later he rang back saying he had located one that was sitting in the factory at Melbourne unallocated. He said it took a bit of convincing to get it ordered but he eventually did it and it would save me from waiting till they produced another batch. When it arrived at the dealer he rang me up and said guess what you are never going to beleive it, you got #1. I did not beleive him until I went down there to pick it up. I'm not sure why it had been put aside at the factory and whether toyota had any plans for it, I suppose I was lucky enough to order the right colour combination at the time when there was no others on the line? Cheers.

Well see, you've already purchased the AVN-6000. How about waiting till it arrives before jumping to a conclusion. You already bought it anyway, so you may as well be the one to confirm whether it works. As above, the install manual says that it wires directly into the steering wheel controls, so I guess Eclipse themselves are incorrect then.

No changes. It's just the way the photo is taken and the lacking B-pillar in the edited photos that creates that illusion.

I'll be working for Marriott this week. I'm going to see whether I can get away with leaving my car in their car park since that is nice and close.

More pics:

So far it is all just discussion, but an update for the Aurion would be about right. In the overseas markets, the Camry has had a revision, so the Australian Camry and Aurion wouldn't be too far behind. The cosmetic changes would be among the lines of this. In my opinion, I hate the tail lights, love the front bumper and headlights though: new toyota aurion 2010 in east asia And the head unit display should be like this:

I was discussing a muffle solution because I highly doubted a dealer would be open at the time he asked the question (07:57 PM on a Sunday night). I'm sure you'd be thinking of trying to muffle it given the circumstances. I didn't I would need to suggest to take it to Toyota because that would just be common sense.

djc brought up a valid question for me about whether the AVN-6000 is directly compatible with the steering wheel controls or if it needs an optional unit to work with it. Well I brought it on myself to search Google to get to Eclipse's website, then proceeded to the support section which conveniently has an install guide. According to what it says that should be in the package, it will directly wire into the steering wheel controls: http://www.eclipse-web.com/download/manual...df/6000ie99.pdf

Accessory terminal... as in to the two wires that go to the cigarette lighter socket. You can do this at the cigarette lighter end to make it easy. That way power will only run through the relay when the key is in the ACC or ON position. That is correct. You can share some load off there if you want. To be safe, I personally wouldn't exceed 10A, but it should be fine to take 20A. That's just me. I'd also rather have a new length of wiring dedicated to a particular purpose. That way you can still use your cigarette lighter sockets as they were originally intended to be use without having to worry about the extra load that is already tied onto it. If you wanted, you could even run a new length of wire and connect the relay trigger to pins 3 and 7 of the head unit socket. It's up to you what you want to do.

Looking at all the wiring, it is possible to put up to 20A total through the accessory power socket, but it's one of those things that I'd recommend not to do. I just don't feel comfortable with the idea. I was just saying you can handle up to 35A mainly because that's what the wiring can take. Because the wiring is hidden, 10-12 gauge is really easy to run and provides room for expansion. Plus you can retain your original cigarette lighter socket functionality. If you choose this option, it would wire up something like this: It saves you from messing with the fuse box and original wiring.

That is correct in that the sticker suggests to use no more than 10A in total between the two sockets. In other words, 8A on one, 2A on the other. Standard practice is to put a fuse that is rated for less than the current carrying capability for the wiring. Now one would think that Toyota put in a 20A fuse meaning that the power sockets can supply at least 10A each. But then again... who knows. If you have looked at the wiring they have run to each of the socket, I'd be concerned about putting anything more than a sustained 10A load through it. I haven't quite followed the wires and am not sure if there is an independent run to each of the sockets. If there is an independent cable run, then you should be able to run 10A on each socket, but if it merges elsewhere prior to the fuse box, then I'd definitely not put more than 10A combined. As for running a wire through the firewall, use the grommet that the ECU wiring goes through. You just need to send a coat hanger through there and you'll be set. I wouldn't bother running through the fuse block as this will be really fiddly and not worth the effort. Just connect it to the battery through a fuse and you'd be fine. This way would probably be a good option because then you can run a 10 gauge length into the car running through a relay triggered by the cigarette lighter power, then into a distribution block. This way you can have up to 35A of devices tied onto it. This is what I have running into my boot (up to 25A at that length), and it's there in case I plan on powering other devices.

All you would need to do is correct that blue outline around what you have changed, and the blurriness inside the grill. Apart from that, it's a good job. I can't use PS at all, so it's way better than what I'd able to attempt.

You can't take the cover off the steering column without taking off the steering wheel. This is because the two screws that hold the cover on are located behind the steering wheel. Taking the steering wheel off is quite easy actually. As long as you have the right Torx security bit. The procedure is pretty much the same as the Kluger which has already been documented: Pics of my Kluger steering wheel removal

That is some clean examples there Brad! I don't mean to be rude or anything Toyo, but you should brush up on your skills a little more before posting up. Not a bad a attempt for someone that doesn't really use Photoshop, but it's like watching Australian/American Idol and getting the ones that you just can't help but laugh at. And WTF did you do to Prozac's car on the previous page? You completely butchered the front end.

All good, decision has been made now. I WILL NOT be changing my wheels. I don't know what got into me at the time (having a look at the time of the first post, I think sleepiness would be the answer), but I was thinking that it may have been an alright move. I think it was along the lines of a larger wheel with similar weights to the smaller variety + wider tires = better grip. I have had some REAL modification plans come into action recently, so this is where my spending is now going towards. While on the topic of tires though. Since I will be replacing my Adrenalin's real soon, question 4 above still applies: As mentioned, my standard tire size is 215/55R17. I have head that I can actually go one step higher and that is to 225/50R17. This will give a bit of a fat tire look as well. Would stepping up to this size probably be beneficial, the same, or worse?

For all that crazy stuff, you can usually find it in store at Repco, Auto Barn, Super Cheap Auto, etc. Their in store stock usually varies (as they slowly get rid of certain items due to lacking popularity), so they may need to order it in for you. Aerpro is usually the main manufacturer of these items. If not, you can always purchase online. No shortage of stock in most cases, and you can find it cheaper.

Despite these minor gaps, I still find it amazing that the car is able to be welded together by robots on a production line. At least with these gaps, the car is still sealed so no water can enter when it rains. That would be my biggest problem.

I'm with everyone's recommendations as well. My sister's car is fitted with Bosch wiper blades, and I have used them in the past on my Camry and I cannot fault them. I'm pretty sure the stock wipers on my Aurion are Bosch as well. They also seem to be fairly durable. As for the Rain-X, good stuff that. Just try and minimise the usage of your wipers. I use the Rain-X washer fluid additive as well and it gives the windscreen a light treatment of it. Just try not to get it on your paintwork when applying the concentrated stuff as it is alcohol based and it's better to be on the safe side. Apart from that, there is nothing else you really need to worry about. I haven't used Fog-X, but I'm pretty sure that if it's just as effective as Rain-X, you will have no problems with it either.

I had a look at mine and can confirm that there are minor variations in assembly. For example, I had a look at the tail lights like you mentioned. Everything looks pretty even but I did measure a 1mm difference in gap from left to right. Apart from that, everything is relatively even. The only other join that I came across that was noticeable if you looked hard enough was the bonnet. On the left (passenger) side, the gap remains even from front to back. On the right side though, the gap increases by 1.5mm at the back compared to the front.

As in it's beeping while the battery is disconnected? Either way, the buzzers look like this and there is one on each headlight. Simply covering it up probably won't work due to the frequency of the beep that will be hard to mask. As well, it beeps through the headlight housing. You would probably need to disconnect it. To do this you follow that blue and white wire till you get to the point where it can be unplugged:

Is this what I have PMed you about? I may have new tires depending on if I can squeeze in the time to get them. As for the other thing, I'll be on the search for those bits that we discussed so I can get it all up and running whenever convenient.

Worth a shot I guess. You've got nothing to lose except for your clock and radio settings. Just leave it unplugged for 30 minutes and see what happens after that. Maybe check all your fuses while waiting as well. Might be some form of indications of a blown fuse.

Taking the battery out of the remote on the AT-X is not going to make any difference. I haven't heard of a case where it beeps like what you have mentioned. Only other type of beep I have come across is a long 10 second beep if you leave a door open when you try and lock it.