DJKOR

Is that so? I never knew the vapour pressure of the fuel in the petrol tank had anything to do with fuel pressure after the pump. As far as I know, the fuel cap only has to be airtight to prevent fuel vapour emisions.

Temporarily fixed.

As an update guys, it appears ToyoDIY.com have updated their parts reference to cover up to 2011 models (including the Aurion). Check it out: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/ Adamsy, could you maybe help by picking out a couple of random parts unique to the facelift Aurion and cross-reference this to the Toyota Parts Catalogue to give us an idea if the information updated there appears to be correct?

As mentioned, I either use them in bad weather conditions (legal to use) or in dusk INSTEAD of my headlights (technically illegal, bu appears to be less chance of being picked up for it) to save having to use my HID's. It comes down to the cop really. I have aproached and driven behind many, many cops in dusk conditions with just my parkers and fog lights and have had no issues. It's still a chance I'm taking nevertheless, but it just doesn't seem like they are really being picky about it these days compared to when the change in the laws were made.

Not this talk about piston slap again. There are numberous things that make this engine noisy at idle, but piston slap is not the once causing what you hear the most. One that causes the most is the VVT-i solenoids. As well, the PCV valve makes quite a bit of noise in a repetative manner as well. Edit: I knew someone here has mentioned this as well: Edit 2: To show the PCV valve noise, have a look at the following video:

No; because the Aurion uses a 'coil on plug' design which eliminates the distributor and spark plug leads.

Barely did anything today. Since my fog lights have proved to be completely useless in fog (probably due to the brightness of the HID's), I decided to change them out for some LED's. I pretty much only use my fog lights in dusk conditions where I can make it home before it is dark enough to use my headlights, or if the weather is not so great. In both cases, I just want to improve my visibility to others and to save using my HID's.

I won't be taking her this week since I have to go to the airport, etc. For lack of better wording, I truly pi**ed her off the other week when I told her that I'm not taking her along since she keeps wanting to leave earlier than I intend. Then came an argument about it etc, etc.

I can confidently make a bet that when in the Aurion, it's not purely heat that kills the LED's. I would be fairly sure that those more expensive Philips ones will die in a relatively short time as well. It's definitely supply related. If you have LED's in your door lights, pay close attention to them and you will notice them flicker.

I'll be out from just before 8. Will have to leave about 9:30pm though to pick my old man up from the airport.

And it's potential hazards like these as to why car manufacturers clearly state warnings in the manual. The following are taken directly out of a manual for a Toyota Aurion, however would be more or less the same as what you would find on other cars: That site that you linked mentions about defective webbing etc. In counter argument to that, the manual evens contain warnings and recommendations to check the condition of the seatbelts periodically to ensure there is no damage to them.

I don't want to be a troll and I'm partially sorry for your suffering, but this is like the whole 'suing McDonalds' thing all over again. If you could turn back time and have that accident without your seatbelt, which option would you choose? Sometimes we should just be thankful.

There is this site that was introduced some time around 1997 that makes it easy to research that data. Click here to be taken there. Because really, we would be getting the data from the same place. Even more useful may be the following site: Click here. Because I'm generous, to get you started, V6 VE Commodores from around the same era are mentioned to be around 130-150rwkW. This one is showing a little higher than that, but you be the judge.

Don't do it. As tempting as it may be to you to save money and use what was given to you, the overall diametre difference is 6% from stock (36.83mm). A change of up to 3% is considered okay and safe. On top of that, it will be considered a defect and can invalidate your insurance.

Apart from your basic security options like a car alarm with an ultra-sonic/microwave window breakage sensor, there isn't much more you can use as a deterent. Remember, alarms and locks only really stop honest people. If you have something inside they want to get, they can still quiclky smash their way in then run. It also comes down to the public in general. Nowadays, people mind their own business a little too much and would simpley watch as someone breaks into your car.

I use a $30 AS/NZS 1698 approved eBay helmet FTW. Personally I don't think you need to go overboard with a helmet when driving a passenger car around the track, but at the end of the day, it's your noggin that it is holding together in the event of an accident so it's up to you on how far you want to go with it.

This. We are not Boostloosing as well. We prefer quality over quantity... hence why it's only posted on TOCAU.

I love it mate. Very reminiscent of these guys:

Don't wanna sound bad or anything, but whatever floats your boat. Our meets aren't really like those you see elsewhere where you have some multi-point gathering... or epic turnout for that matter. Everyone pretty much heads straight to the loop. Not to mention, those that do rock up more frequenly are not really from around there. Or maybe I just find the though of cruising from Browns Plains to the meet spot about as entertaining as watching the grass grow.

I have used both types before. Despite looking the part, the large 10mm one usually wouldn't be as bright as the second one you have shown. But in this case, looks like it might be different for you. Personally I hate the first one mainly because there are so many brighter alternatives out there. That said, they are the most durable for parker use due to the extra material to insulate the LED from heat damage. They will still eventually blow however.

F*** I envy your skill.

I keep coming back to look at your y-pipe, and I keep getting ideas on picking one up from the wreckers and doing it myself.

It typically won't be recorded in the logbook by anyone unless the owner likes to stick all their receipts in there. Three things that are a sure sign that the tires have been changed: 1) The brand/type of tire is not the usual (Energy MXV8 for the Sportivo) 2) The km's are qutie high and the tires are in a surprisingly good condition. 3) The manufacture date stamped on the tire is after the car was manufactured.

Okay guys. As you may have read in the itinerary, we are planning to go go-karting on the Sunday of the meet. As it is getting rather close to the meet, we need to get this sorted and booked ASAP. For those that are attending, I have added a poll to this thread so that I can gather numbers on this. Also, it would be good to have a definite answer as to whether you would be in for this. For said event, you would be looking at $95 per person for 4 x 10 minutes sessions on the 1100 metre Le Mans track in a Schumacher Kart. We would require a $20 deposit to secure your booking to be made within the next week. Edit: To make it more economical, the following has been proposed: For said event, you would be looking at $66 per person for 4 x 6 minutes sessions on the Monte Carlo track in a Predator Kart. We would require a $20 deposit to secure your booking to be made within the next week.