DJKOR

This site you keep linking to... please feel free to rave on more about it.

Nah uh

Have a look at these guys. They have a clean solution: http://www.proclipusa.com/ Mainly this one: http://www.proclipusa.com/?sectionpath=383&pageid=13061&processor=content&pcategoryid=12941&categoryid=16666&year=2007&lightwindow=true&usermode=_dualselect&v_pcat=12941&v_cat=16666&year=2007&d_pcat=1&d_cat=NULL&have_holder=true&have_mount=false&p_pageid=1&dtype=

I'll be there.

Surely you would have t get an engineering certificate afterwards if you wanted to keep it all legal. That said, I'm not so sure strengthening is the direction you will need to head in if you made modifications there. I am fairly sure that the metal bar in the front there is built for impact absorption thus making it stronger after modification will reduce the effect of its intended purpose. Same goes for the foam. Removing that is going to reduce the impact absorption abilities. I don't know the regulations in regards to that so that may be something you will need to research.

Definitely don't have to if you aren't keen on it. Done it twice before. Only reason I say that is putting the rear part of the seat back on can be a pain in the rear end. Edit: I knew I had evidence of this somewhere:

Oh yeah. I knew I forgot to mention something. You can remove the parcel shelf without removing the rear seat. You just remove the trim on the sides of the rear window (with the SRS Airbag marking on it... don't worry, it's okay to remove) then remove the rear headrests, then once that is out the parcel shelf can be lifted up and if you extend the seatbelts, you can figure out where to put it. Everything is held in with plastic clips. They can take a little force but they don't break that easily.

Interesting timing with your thread. Probably bring the discusion over here:

Without seeing it in person myself, I have gathered that to remove the unit, you have to remove your parcel shelf then you can access the nuts that hold the unit to the bottom of the parcel shelf. I gathered that from the following thread: http://au.toyotaowne...ta-link-needed/ Also have a look at some discussion here: If you have some soldering skills, you could probably buy some 1.2V NiCd or NiMH cells with solder tabs and make a replacement battery for cheap. Or you could use a 7.2V RC battery and work your way from there.

I think that only apples at lower speeds where you are only running on the electric motor. At higher speeds, your engine is running so I don't think being too quiet is an issue. It makes sense to say it is the inverter since you will be charging the batteries when moving at higher speeds. There is a fair amount of power involved here so it wouldn't surprise me. As for being loud, I guess that is subjective. I personally haven't heard what yours sounds like in this scenario so I can't make a comment there.

Can't comment on whether the specific build of the supercharger is still being made since there is no need for it, but the R1320 which the TRD supercharger pretty much is (just a variation of it) is still being produced. Toyota would surely still have stock so I have no doubt that the TRD specific one is still available . Be prepared to pay lots of money if you choose to go down that route. Dealers at first may have been a little bit picky on supplying parts to non-TRD owners, but I guess that has just died down over the years. If the rep you spoke with is willing to supply, then that's the answer... you can obtain them.

Things like this always happen when I'm not around. Speaking of which, I will not be out this Thursday.

Well.. don't need a thread for it, but here's a post instead. Strange. I thought I used more.

Definitely wont fry it. USB chargers have to supply 5V for charging on the outer two pins so your controller expects this.

What The F*ck. Initial production run of 20, and NZ has it listed before us.

Not a definitive answer but it is worth a shot. It won't do any harm. At worst, it just wont charge it. Most chargers have the middle pins of the USB socket shorted out. This makes the device being plugged into it recognise it is connected to a charger. In fact, some devices require this for the charger to actually charge the device. Some time ago, I had to open one of my car chargers and short the two centre pins so it would charge my Xperia. Newer chargers have this already done. The iPhone charger on the other hand doesn't have the middle pins shorted I believe. It applies a slight voltage to them to make it seem like it is connected to a PC. Don't quote me on that though. I know for a fact though that the iPhone charger does not charge a Blackberry Torch.

Damn. Now I want cheesecake.

Definitely not me.

Just get her to apply the throttle more slowly when accelerating from a stop in the wet. As Hiro said, it's something that is quite easy to do given the circumstances.

You can clearly see how it connects from the included photo and description. It taps the +12v from the fuse box by inserting a connector where one of the fuses are. Then you ground the other end on any part of the car body. The disadvantage of this compared to tapping into your dome light is that the only way these lights will come on is if you turn it on at the switch. It will not come on automatically when you open your doors.

Brennden spotted him at Hoppy's. Posting these photos from him in case he doesn't make an appearance here:

Do you know any brands that may be suitable?

In. Looks like the weather is good again hopefully for a while.

Why oh why didn't they make that the new Aurion Sportivo.