DJKOR

Originally thought to have been a resolution to the rattle on startup (which we know as the VVT-i controller rattle), Toyota released a revised belt for the TRD to fix a slipping issue: Rattle in start up My TRD would start to get a rattle when it was due for a service. I supplied my own oil this time as I am not happy with the "genuine oil" supplied by the service departments. I now run a Penrite full synthetic oil. It is now a case of wait and see if it stops the rattle. Make sure you get the revised belt as it is 25mm shorter then what was originally supplied. Had mine changed last week all good so far. I have a belt here as I plan to change mine at 150,000km and was advised by "David the Viking" himself that this is the revised part number. You may want to double check that however.

Yeah that is about the same as what I get rev/speed wise. 230km/h! what does it handle like at that speed, pretty flat or floats around a bit, I've only had mine up to about 180km/h and it is surprisingly comfortable, they just feel like they love speed, I am amazed a mine and how quick it can get to 140 or more just overtaking on the highway. I thought they would electronically limit it but 235 is not bad, clearly without the limiter it could do more, the speedo goes to about 260 I think. They (well a 2007 Sportivo SX6) are electronically limited at approximately 255km on the speedo. GPS speed when the speedo is reading that is 245km/h. That's all the discussion I'm permitting on that. There is no place that most of us here can legally achieve that speed in Australia.

No worries. Was researching these options before buying my car because a car carrier was not as cheap as you'd think when comparing to the cost of fuel. Luckily when i got mine, the owner was nice enough to let me keep the registration until I got home to transfer it.

Negative. http://www.tmr.qld.g...d-vehicles.aspx Travelling interstate When moving a vehicle from interstate to Queensland, an unregistered vehicle permit must be issued by the state or territory where the journey starts. A new permit must be obtained from the interstate authority if a vehicle has been moved from Queensland to another state and is being returned to Queensland. All states and territories (other than Western Australia) recognise unregistered vehicle permits issued interstate. This means that a vehicle may travel through other states and territories (other than Western Australia) with a Queensland-issued permit. And then from VicRoads: http://www.vicroads....hiclePermit.htm Interstate use You can drive interstate with an Unregistered Vehicle Permit if this condition is specified on your permit. UVPs are intended to cover situations such as: - Moving a vehicle from place to place on a one-off basis Vehicles may only be driven in daytime between sunrise and sunset. The permit allows a vehicle to be used outside these hours for the following purposes: - where a construction vehicle is working in a floodlit area, or within an area closed off to normal traffic, or where the construction vehicle is fitted with required lighting for night operation; or - where a vehicle is collected from the place of purchase to be driven to the residence of the owner or the garaged address nominated on the permit; - for single journeys where specified on the permit form.

Spotted Matt (Starlett) at 5:47pm on Barry Parade, Fortitude Valley heading north.

TRD released a bulletin which mentions the proper procedure for removing the caps. When followed properly, no damage is done to them. Even still, I don't trust anyone else to remove them and I personally remove them before taking them in. Haven't had an issue since. TRD Aurion wheel centre caps With regards to them becoming loose, there was a change in the design of the inner ring. If they didn't rectify this, I would be chasing them up as this fix was free of charge. For reference: ATT TRD OWNERS! Whilst this is in fact true, I have not had the skirt damaged by the jack. The skirt will flex, but nowhere near the point of causing damage to it. A design flaw, yes, but considering I have only (and intend on keeping it that way) used the jack for emergency roadside wheel changes, then it's not something I am overly fussed about. Remember, this car is basically a modified Sportivo. I guess Toyota did not decide to change their type of jack for something like that considering the supply of Aurion/Camry jacks they already have. The end result is a body kit that was designed without taking this into consideration. The minimum recommended 34 PSI cold is probably a little low for most liking, but so is the 32 PSI for standard Aurion tires so I wouldn't exactly say they are wrong. Having the tires at 34 PSI cold will at least prevent blisters from occurring on the sidewalls, but as said, this is a minimum. In fact, if you put your pressures up to the minimum recommended cold PSI for full load (38 PSI), then you will have your tire pressures at a good level for even tire wear. It's not uncommon practice to do this either. Motoring associations such as the RACQ even recommend it. Also, personally 48 PSI is a bit high for having your tires. That is starting to approach the region of the maximum tire inflation. 40-42 PSI warm for highway driving is more than sufficient... and even matches up with my statement above. The TRD is basically a kitted up Sportivo. Unfortunately it was not designed from the ground up as a completely separate car so there are going to be little issues like that.

Not necessarily. If you rotors are not warped or have irregularities on the surface, then machining them can be more wasteful. When you machine them, you ultimately loose some thickness to them. This in turn reduces the amount of metal to absorb and dissipate the heat from braking. While the difference isn't a whole lot, it's still a difference in the negative direction. Most of the time, if your rotors are producing no vibration during braking and appear to show even wear, then changing just the brake pads should be fine as part of the whole process of bedding in the pads is the match the surface of the pad with the surface of the rotor to counter for any minor irregularities.

I'm going to add just a few pointers to help you out when looking for one. There are so many different ones out there so it can be interesting trying to sift through them all. - Find a camera that is really light. Most of these in car cameras come with some cheap quality camera mount. A heavier camera will have a higher tendency to give way and pull the bracket off the window. In addition to that, a heavier camera combined with a cheap quality bracket will show a fair amount of vibration in the video. Gets annoying after a bit. - Don't worry so much about the ones with the IR LED's advertising for night vision. These LED's will do SFA for adding extra illumination to things in front of you at night. Aim to find one with a higher sensitivity instead. To get an idea of how good some are, look for ones which have sample videos on YouTube. That is a good way to gauge their performance. - 1080 all that necessary so if you don't want to spend a little extra, 720 will be sufficient for most use. Now when I was in China, I bought a DOD F900LHD (link) , this camera, whilst a fairly decent quality camera given the price ($100 at the time), had some big flaws. The first being that it mounted to the side of the bracket. Combined with the weight, this would cause the camera pull the suction cup off the window. I had to use various modifications to make the bracket stick with more force, but even still, it wasn't the greatest. In the end, I left it mounted to the window all the time and it seems to have held up well because the lack of removing it all the time has make the rubber stick to the window better. I also had to make the bracket more solid by using epoxy because it flexed that much that the video it recorded was barely watchable due to all the vibration. Leaving it attached to the window all the time though has led to the camera showing signs of failure after only 10 months. The harsh QLD sun has gotten to it and every now and again, it won't turn on properly and record nothing but black. I am thinking of replacing it with this camera though because I know the functionality of this brand camera and am confident that it should function in a similar way. http://dod-tec.us/do...x-with-gps.html I'm sure it can be found for much cheaper than that given that when I bought my other one a year and a bit ago, it was $100 from a seller in China (and I was probably overcharged as well).

Apply this level of sense to it. If that were a water filter for your tap water, would you still use it in the condition you found them in?

Agreed. The fuel in the hose up until the trigger is a constant flow of fuel with no air mixed into it. The only point where air can mix in is after is passes the trigger. When the nozzle is in the tank anyways, there isn't much air to be mixed into the flow as it exits the nozzle. Even still, have you blown air through a straw to the bottom of a glass? The air doesn't stay at the bottom. It will work its way to the top of the tank and eventually out the way it came. It may cause the pump mechanism to trigger quicker if you hold the trigger on full and have it stirring things up forcing the vapour to the nozzle quicker but a simple solution to that is to fill till the nozzle clicks, take the nozzle out, wait 15 seconds (you can hear the air working its way to the top of the tank), and then put the nozzle back in and pump some more fuel. The next time it clicks, you can be sure that your tank is close to full.

Now that I'm home and could have a good look at the photos, I don't think the brackets wouldn't have had anything to do with it. I was thinking that due to the fitment, it may have caused the RSB to sit in a different position to normal and potentially putting extra stress on the mounting points, but when I look at it now, it looks to be sitting in the right spot. As for what to use instead, no need to source anything else. Adamsy said it above: Here's a couple of answers prepared earlier: Maaaatttttee. You worry too much: Knocking heard after installed the rear sway bar

That entire piece is broken though as per the original post. That small crack is as a result of the main break. I would imagine this crack isn't going to be an issue once the component is replaced. On a side note, who fitted the RSB and how were the brackets attached (eg. rattle gun)? The ones UR used to supply were prett beefy and I would t imagine them to budge much of tightened up to the factory mounts. In that case, they could have been applying extra stress to the mounting points.

This is starting to look like a Hoppy's meet now. Edit: Maybe not. Rain seems to be on the north.

I don't know if this would have had any part contributing to it but from the looks of the photos, did you use the white brackets that were supplied with the sway bar? They stopped sending them out on the newer batches because they don't fit right but if you got a sway bar from the older stock, you would have gotten those brackets. The white ones they used to supply were not bent at the right angle so if you did use those, I'm surprised how both surfaces of the bracket look to be flush with points where they mount.

Rain nearly looks like it's clearing.

Anyone going?

The petrol engine can start at any time. If you are at a standstill and put your foot down immediately, the engine will start up immediately and both will work towards accelerating the car. I can't really comment about the power torque curve. It's all a bunch of guestimations without seeing an actual dyno graph. The variable nature of the HSD can probably make a difference to it all as well. To get some type of idea, here is a dyno of a Prius. You can see how the power down at the wheels stays around the same level even though the speed varies.

There is no "best" option. Each unit has their pros and cons. It all comes down to what you can live with and what you can't.

The max power has to be when the max eletric power cuts over to the petrol. So if the your figures are correct immediate after 4500rpm. At the cutover the power from the electric (105KW) would have to be added to 46KWs of the petrol power to make 151Kws. Not entirely the case. Just because the electric motor is capable of providing 105kW at 4,500RPM, does not necessarily mean that at 4,500RPM it is going to be supplying all that power. It may possibly be the case depending on the given situation, but it could also be a case of the petrol engine supplying 80% of the power and the electric motor supplementing it with 20%. It all depends on the situation at hand but I think you will find that at 4,500RPM, most of the power would be supplied by the petrol engine rather than the electric motor. Remember, the electric component of the Hybrid Synergy Drive consists of both a motor and generator pair. During acceleration, the petrol engine can not only supply power directly to the wheels but can also provide power to the generator which in turn provides power to the electric motor in tandem with the battery. Therefore the a percentage of the net power produced by the petrol engine may form part of the electric motor's power. The result of this would mean that the maximum combined power could be over a larger rev range and not just a single point.

I'm guessing he needs all the power so he can do something like this all the time : ^ That build is crazy though (link) On that note, this is where I was getting at when I was saying you don't necessarily have to go all out on a huge alternator that covers the RMS needs of your system. I can't imagine you running 6000W RMS for periods of time that would justify your alternator having to cover the full power requirements (ie. the 600A you mentioned in your first post).

Wow! How did you come across those? There must be a fantastic place that sells them that you would be so keen on telling us about right?

You get that on other cars too. Not just your Camry Hybrid. My TRD Aution has the same. It's actually coated on the body itself.

I think there may be a typo on the Toyota website where they specify the petrol engine as 151kW, the electric motor as 118kW, and the combined output as 151kW. From all my research, I have found the following specs: Petrol engine: 118kW Electric motor: 105kW Combined maximum: 151kW You will find that you don't just add the petrol engine power to the electric motor to get a combined figure because the electric motor has different power curve when compared to the petrol engine. In other words, the petrol engine produces maximum power at 5,700RPM whereas the electric motor does so at 4,500RPM. As for the torque, the petrol engine produces its maximum at 4,500RPM and the electric motor does so between 1,000 to 1,500 RPM.

I'd personally like to see what 6000W RMS at full power inside a car with you sitting inside it is going to do. I somewhat don't think your power requirements are going to sit on those levels constantly. Just a thought so you plan your needs a little more accurately.