DJKOR

I took the effort to compile the FAQ's. It would be good if some people showed the courtesy to use it.

Realistically though, cars do depreciate and the lower cover amount reflects this. Otherwise if the covered amount didn't go down, you could essentially write your car off years later and get a equivalent new car for an old one.

The cheapest option also turns out to be the crappiest option as well. FM Modulation is one of the worst ways you can input an auxiliary source into your stereo. Some people probably won't notice the difference, but with the half decent speakers in the Aurion, losses in clarity are fairly noticeable.

I'm pretty sure some using this setup would beg to differ. But each to their own.

It should look something like this: IN+ : Head unit/Amplifier positive speaker output connects here IN- : Head unit/Amplifier negative speaker output connects here W+ : Connects to the positive terminal of the woofer W- : Connects to the negative terminal of the woofer T+ : Connects to the positive terminal of the tweeter ------- Only use one of the following -3dB : Connect this to the negative terminal of the tweeter for -3dB 0db : Connect this to the negative terminal of the tweeter for no attenuation +3db : Connect this to the negative terminal of the tweeter for +3db The attenuation setting may possibly be a bit of a trick in a way. It won't really affect you though with what I will say. A more common arrangement for a tweeter crossover is 0db with an extra setting for -3db and -6db. If your crossover is passive, changes are that the +3db setting is in fact 0db and the -3db setting is actually -6db. If that didn't make sense, never-mind.

AAMI works like what I am about to say. I would somehow get the feeling that Just Car would be similar. This is for me though. I don't know how your policy was set up. AAMI covers with an "Agreed Value or Market Value, whichever is higher". This means that at renewal time, they come to an Agreed Value which typically (in my experience anyways... I'm not an expert here) is close to the market value at the time of the renewal. Then if you car is written off, whichever value is higher (in most cases, the Agreed Value unless the car gains value over time) is the amount that is paid. This can work to an advantage because say that you start your policy in April 2009 for example and they give you an agreed value of $31k (which happens to be around the car's market value at the time). Say that it gets to April 2010 and you get your renewal, they give you a new Agreed Value of $26k (which also happens to be around the same as it's market value), the process then repeats. Now say you write your car off in March 2010. Even though it is close to renewal when they would have then calculated the new Market Value to be around $26k, you would still get the full $31k as that's what the policy stated.* Kind of get what I'm trying to say? The value of cover in cases like that will go down over time unless you specifically chose insurance that is by an Agreed Value only. As Ronnyboy mentioned, if it is over a period of months/years, then this is normal. Over a period of weeks, that isn't normal. * This is exactly how it worked out with my last Aurion. When I wrote it off, the policy renewal was already sent out with a new adjusted Agreed Value. It was only weeks away from renewal, but because I was still on my last cycle of the policy, I was covered for the amount stated on the last notice.

Meh. Let them go ahead with it. One, I want to see more results and two, I want to see said results without getting done for it. I'd personally never remove a cat from my car, and if I was to get something like this, I'd either go custom or find a way to keep the factory emission's control setup intact. As for ARIon, if you don't know what the Xede does, research helps: http://www.xede.com.au/about.php If you don't understand how that ties in, then more research will teach you.

O.... M.... F.... G.... ! I'm not even going to quote myself anymore. The TOCAU Aurion FAQ

I also have heard quite a lot about the Kings Lows on the front and Super Lows on the rears for the exact same reason from respected members. The best combination to get an even drop.

There's still females here at TOCAU Don't get your hopes up about it though. But that said, things worked out well with Simo and Nellie.

No. I was referring to the other thread he has with the exact same problem described in it. Others have already been helping out in that thread, and now there is another just to scatter the information even more. He mentioned 'Sports Ryder' springs which one would assume are the lowering springs as the Pedders OEM replacements are just referred to as 'Heavy Duty Coil Spring'. Unless he was conned into thinking he got Sports Ryder springs.

Not saying this is the exact answer but I figured I may say what I think is happening. When you are cruising along at a steady speed, you will most likely be in 5th gear which is the second overdrive gear. When you press the breaks, I would imagine the gearbox will drop down a gear to 4th which will be closer to the 1:1 gear ratio (0.97:1 to be exact for your car). This makes braking more efficient in terms that your engine will have more of a part in it than if you were in 5th. One way to check this theory is to manually put your transmission into 4th and cruise along at a steady pace like you mentioned. Then touch the brakes like you mentioned and see if it does the same. Part of the above also comes from the lock-up torque converter, but this only causes a couple of hundred RPM increase when disengaging. You can reset your ECU and transmission ECU by disconnecting your battery for 10 minutes or so. Just search the forum here for the ECU reset procedure. Just remember though that your ECU is always learning anyways, so it's not really going to store anything drastic in it. All the water as in you find 4 litres or so on the ground after parking? If so, that is something pretty serious and should be looked at. Otherwise, how much water are you looking at? How soon after washing your windscreen did you park? If not a very short time, were you using your A/C?

And you started another thread why?

If you are concerned about the safety feature of an airbag, get a model that comes with them. Fitting them to a car which did not have them (but had it as an option on a higher grade), though possible, is not really recommended as it can cost a bit and it's function is not guaranteed.

At least the car doesn't complain. And it's whining is something that I enjoy.

I hear ya.

Definitely needs to me more of a Member's Rides post. My opinion, you need to clean it up a little. Mount the amplifiers a little better and make the sub enclosures look like it's part of the boot. It looks like you have just tossed those in there as something you are carrying and not something you are using.

Even better...

DVD player with 7" Screen Installed At the back of your glovebox, there is a cutout that allows access to the cabin air filter. This is the perfect place to run your iPod cable if you intend on leaving it in the glovebox like most people. Only issue is the navigation for the iPod is crap on the Auspack unit and in my opinion, the idea of leaving it in the glovebox doesn't work out since you can probably control it easier on the iPod. Anyways, if it did work properly, this is what you would do. Here is a photo for reference. There is lots of space to run the cable up to there from the head unit so no need to cut or drill:

An application which I just obtained that I would highly recommend: WiFi File Explorer Saves having to connect your phone to your PC via USB if you want to transfer files to and from. Usually on my laptop I use Bluetooth File Explorer, but my desktop doesn't have Bluetooth. Instead, I would usually have to get my cable, plug the phone in, etc etc. At the same time, it partially charges the battery for the time it is connected which is something I may not want to do. With WiFi File Explorer, you just turn on your WiFi, connect to your local network, then on any PC connected to that network, you open up a web browser and browse directly to the phone. Easy.

Not trying to invalidate the figures or cast doubt, but just mentioning this so that others don't get misled. Correct me if I'm wrong, but those power figures of 200kW + at the wheels was on a DynoJet or similar dyno right? I'm not going to argue the way it works, but I personally have seen figures from these dynos stated to be higher than what a Dyno Dynamics dyno would show. For comparative purposes, since the Dyno Dynamics dyno is more common here in Australia, I think the best example of what figures to expect would be to look at Chris' Aurion (00UCH) which has these exact same headers: 00UCH what a Aurion!!!!

Oh damn. It was only less than an hour ago that I unpinned the Wheel thread at the top of the Aurion forum thinking that if I put the link in the FAQ's, it would be enough to prevent further posts asking questions like this. I guess I was wrong. May I suggest looking there first for some ideas, followed by a search of the Aurion Forum, then a search of the Members Rides Forum. It's a fair question, but it is one which has already had numerous answers and we can't be expected to put in the effort to do the research for you.

Being sidetracked, I think the FAQ needs an update because questions like this seem to be asked quite a lot. Hence the name FAQ's. Anyways, in the meantime, I will answer the question from compiling answers obtained from other threads. Having the Presara, I would presume you have the Navigation head unit. If that's the case, the AUX mod that has been shown in the following thread does not work with that head unit (tested with thanks to Steven) AUX input mod This then leaves you with either the option to buy an aftermarket iPod interface, or an aftermarket head unit, both of which can be found by searching the forum and deciding from there what would be the most economical.

Lucas does have some neat products out there, but as with most products out there that make claims for better fuel economy/more power etc, I tend to treat them with a little more scepticism. The whole fuel economy/power thing is a good way for people to market their products. Let us know how it goes for you. I myself have used Lucas additives in the past, more notably the engine oil 'Stop Leak' additive, in my SV21 Camry and it really helped stop minor leaks I was getting here and there, but that was a product for a completely different purpose.

The backgrounds are in the data.zip folder. You need to work your way through it will you get to the 'backgrounds' folder (data.zip\ui_igo8_da\800_480\background). The background itself is actually selected in the UI of the program in the Settings menu. I can't remember if I uploaded a 'factory settings' version or not, but on mine, the over-speed alert actually is turned on. I set it to alert with a visual indicator (the speedo sign on the screen) with no sound for when you are at 60% of the actual speed limit (ie. it says you are speeding in a 100km/h zone when you are travelling at 60km/h). The reason for this is that the visual warning only shows when the unit is set to tell you that you are speeding. Having it at a lower threshold means that at most speed ranges, the speed limit will always be shown on the screen. Useful for when you didn't see the last speed sign. That said, it operates like it should and if you turn your audio on, it should do the audio warning as well.