DJKOR

I didn't say replace your battery; I said: Anyways, if you get yourself a decent main battery under the bonnet with a secondary (or even tertiary) battery in the boot, run some good 0 gauge cable (more than one would be even better) to the boot, and do the 'Big 3', you should be fine to run a few thousand watts RMS. If you really think that just simply leaving everything as it is and upgrading just your alternator is going to fix your problems, then you are going to have to find someone who can re-wind you current one (or a spare). There are currently no high output alternators that are sold as they are to bolt directly up to the 2GR-FE.

You'll need 6 litres of oil in the Aurion 6.1L to be more precise. Why don't people ever look at their owners manuals.

I guess I'd be up for it. I'll have to wear a jacket or something though because those mozzies don't like (or should I say like) me. So the Friday night sounds good.

The stock plugs are a Denso Iridium plug with an Iridium tip and a Platinum pad (ground). These are referred to as a a "Iridium Long Life Spark Plug" in Denso literature and is the one that I bought. Got them direct from Toyota. Service life specified on these types of plugs is said to be 100,000km and this is something I would generally follow. Even though some may report that they have gotten more out of them, I would still consider changing them before 100,000km. If you go for the Denso ones, the Denso part number is "FK20HR11" (this is also what Toyota use in their part reference), and the NGK ones are "DILFR6D11". It's up to you to find where to get them if you choose not to go Toyota.

No worries mate. Driving style has a fair bit bearing on how the car reacts. From my own experience, I found that on the track (QR surface with RE001's), you would have to make a pretty bad move, in the dry at least, to get into a situation where VSC was to 'kick in' so to speak. I have never hit that point on track... it was my limit that was reached instead. In situations where VSC does it's job, it's going to be one where you know it is working. It is basically there to correct a slide once it occurs and not actually prevent it in the first place. Systems like EBD and ABS work towards the prevention side of things. I don't really have a way to explain anything else about it. The best way is to take it somewhere where you can safely get the car to slide and see how it reacts. To give you an idea of how the VSC reacts, about the only video that I have that shows an instance where VSC is doing it's job is as follows. You can see where I took the corner a little too hard and introduced a little bit of lift-off oversteer. You can then see and hear how the VSC reacted at 2:40 to 2:45. It's not much of an example but gives you an idea of it's reaction. I was literally thinking of the same thing couple of days ago. Performance wise, don't be expecting any gain unless you are doing tight circuit work where you believe that you can benefit from letting the rear slide out instead of taking the corner slower. As I have said, VSC is only there to fix a problem after it has occurred. You aren't gaining any extra advantage except for letting the car slide by disabling it. Disabling traction control is only really useful when you need to start accelerating from a slippery surface or you are doing circuit type driving where you just want to power through the corners with wheelspin instead of it cutting throttle. Apart from that, you don't really gain anything else.

In most cases if you are using an oil of the same weight and specification, then a majority of what you hear is just placebo. If anything, you may have improved the flow of oil by changing to a new filter, but in terms of the oil itself, it's mostly an illusion. Your mind is really good at doing things like that to you.

All I can say is that you need to think outside the box. I have done about 5 oil changes and not once have I used the cap style oil filter wrench. No damage or marks made to the oil filter cap either. Sorry though, but I can't disclose what I do as it's not 'responsible' advice. My official recommendation is to use the proper tool.

If your amps are going to need that much power, factoring in inefficiencies, I'd be guessing you're expecting to run about 2500-2750 RMS? Realistically, are you going to run at that power all the time? Think about it. Really all you need to do is get yourself a second battery installed to cover for when you do run it at full power but for most of the time when you do run it at normal listening/driving levels, the stock alternator will be able to cope.

I've had my say on this before... can't find the thread though. Anyways, it was something like this: Personally I think it is pointless. At the end of the day though, those that understand will, and those that understand won't and just see it as another badge. As long as you aren't calling your car a TRD like half the American Toyota population do just by sticking a badge on their car, then feel free to do what you want.

Well from experience from off the track and the time I headed out to QR, Traction Control is less intrusive (but still intrusive nonetheless) than VSC. Traction Control in operation is indicated by the indicator light (sliding car) flashing with no beeping. VSC on the other hand when in operation is always indicated with a constant beeping sound during the duration of it's operation and sometimes with the TC indicator light flashing when both systems are operating in tandem. When VSC is in operation, it's not all that great and it does slow you down in terms of it cutting throttle, sometimes a little more than what it should. In other words, once VSC is in operation, it is intrusive to the point that you will notice it when it's doing it's job. It is not something that operates without you even realising. Basically, it's never automatically making adjustments while you are driving. It only comes into action when the car physically slides. That all said, VSC on the Aurion is not implemented that well. It takes a fair bit of a slide for it to start taking action. I wouldn't be surprised if you had managed to make it around the track many times without VSC ever intervening. All this said, that's only in reference to VSC. EBD (Electronic Brakeforce Distribution) on the other hand is a driving aid that comes into use in a situation like on the track. This feature is not disabled however when VSC is. Just saying that so that others are aware that even though everything ties in together, it isn't necessarily the same.

When you were driving it around the track, did you actually have VSC beeping?

As far as it goes, from what I'm aware of K Sport are the only ones out there that sell a big brake kit designed to bolt up to the US Spec 07+ Camry (which has been confirmed to share the same mounts as the Aurion). Unless you are going to the track a lot or are doing mountain runs all the time then personally, for the cost of these K Sport kits, I wouldn't bother. Prices for these start from US$1445 for the 13 inch (front), all the way up to US$3315 for the 16 inch (front). And just so you know, not even K Sport are selling big brake kits for the rear of the 07+ Camry, so you will be out of proportion. To add to this, personally I wouldn't trust brakes from K Sport considering how crucial these components are, but that's just me.

Depending on what you are after, the following site has some good information. http://www.toyodiy.com

In my opinion, the Aurion can be manoeuvred quicker without the use of it's 'driving aids'. The way they are implemented on the Aurion is too intrusive and when the Aurion is pushed to it's limit intentionally, these slow it down. But that's coming from the perspective of one that drives it beyond it's original design. For your everyday person, I don't really see where it would be that useful overall. I was just having my say on the part I have quoted.

The procedure to disable the seat belt warning is also shown in the appropriate service manual. This does not work on the Aurion. As for disabling VSC, you are forcing it to detect a fault which as a result, will disable VSC and TC at the same time. When you want to turn it back on through that method shown in the video, you need to plug it back in and then drive for some distance (which can vary between several kilometres up to a hundred or so) or reset your ECU. Not really a smart choice in my opinion. There is a way you can theoretically disable TC, but I'm not going to explain the procedure here (yet anyways) as it involves modifying the wiring that goes to the skid control ECU, and if not done properly, can potentially be considered unsafe and I am not going to be the one responsible for that.

Far from it: spark plug replacement

Yeah, you shouldn't be looking at any more than $15-$25, depending on where you go. They usually pressure test them in that price as well if it is a water proof watch as well.

As for your window with regards to the wipers, try cleaning the area the the wipers don't touch with a clay bar (look it up if you don't know) or some form of a glass polish. Chances are you will find that the wiper has removed something from your glass, but it's nothing that came with the car. It would be surface contaminants from the environment etc. Much like how your paint can get a buildup of these contaminants and only clay can remove it, your glass is no less susceptible to this in the long run. As for the sticker mark, try the same recommendation as above. Moisture will build up differently on this area because chemicals from the adhesive can still remain on the glass surface.

Depends on what you are after. Do you want a better all-rounder, or something that is aimed more for performance? The GR-90 will give you better performance across most scenarios (especially in the wet) when compared with a tire like the RE-001 which is made for better performance in the dry and under a bit of warmth is put into them. If you car isn't going to be driven all the time like you stole it, then an all-rounder can work out to be better as this will lead in longevity and covers you in most road conditions.

To be honest, you would have been more useful if you actually posted a proper DIY. If you gave these instructions to someone who just bought their kit and tried to fit it, I'm pretty sure it wouldn't give them much assistance.

Spotted on Thursday night at about 8:07pm, Ash's (arc) ZRE Corolla in the exact same spot that I spotted his Aurion in the other week. Defintely prefer the Aurion Also, spotted earlier today (well the afternoon of Friday) at about 2:23pm driving down Ann Street in the Valley; a white Gen 5 Sportivo Camry with black rims, lowered, and just overall... looking effing hot. O RLY? Someone must be driving his car then because he was at Wyndham Estate around 10:30am yesterday.

So many people keep thinking along the lines of less backpressure is better. This is not always the case and there is a point where you can be going too far.

Personally I think the feature is a little pointless, but I guess I'm not worried about car jacking or anything like that. Anyways, I hear that the features below are not available on the Aus spec Aurion/Gen 6 Camry, but the Gen 6 Camry in the States which is just about the same in internal gizmos has the following. Maybe you could plan on sourcing a Body ECU for the Gen 6 V6 from the States. That said, only the Intelligent Tester can modify these settings: You know there is a thread on this BTW? Doors auto lock Acording to dannywss there, he mentioned something about paying $200 for an aftermarket module that does the auto lock thing.

Epic sigh:

I have to think about it. The problem with me is that I'm too impulsive on my purchases. Edit: Looks like my pay this week is a bit better than expected. I'm resisting the urge to get this. I think I have convinced myself not to though. While driving to the loop, I tried to imagine having the paddle shift there. The problem I found is that on the Aurion, the wiper and indicator stalks are a little close to the steering wheel.