trentmeyer23

Out like trout... (For 7 weeks)

Valve Stem Seals are the most likely culprit(due to it sitting allowing oil to seep through and burn on start up), however, worst case scenario could be the pistons rings. Is the oil milky at all?

It's not as bad as yellow... :P

^^^ Turn CAPS LOCK off.

I think all the people with opinions on this need to create their own thread to b*tch and moan and not clog this one up. Mods should also clean all the sh*t out too.

Most likely compressor only.

A 5S-GE is exactly the same but without the turbo.

Belts won't cause a looping idle like that. As Anthony said, very likely it is a fuel issue, however could be cause by a myriad of other things, such as vacuum leaks and the IAC (Idle Air Control Valve). At the absolute worst case it could be a blown head gasket, but lets hope it's not that. I would suggest checking for vacuum leaks such as damaged or disconnected vacuum hoses firstly. If no luck there consider a new fuel filter and having the injectors cleaned and tested. Was there any work carried out on the distributor at all(such as distributor o-ring)?

Yet another quality story by Channel NINE ^_^

There was never a 5S-GTE one done, Mick's setup went a bit sour. I actually have his old 3S-GE head. My setup is still on going, I've had the setup running already but without turbo. I am currently at the stage of fitting the turbo. It costs a lot and takes a lot of time but has the advantage of being able to handle more power/boost.

I'm running KYB's in mine and have never had any issues. 260k is pretty good for a set of shocks.

Mark, it will be an SDV10, which are also labelled as an SXV10(identical cars). The genuine Toyota part no. will be 88320-33060(which is the compressor minus the clutch assy). This is the one required. http://ishop2.cooldrive.com.au/products/CM1618

Thanks for that 450hptonne, do you know how long this repair process takes no considering there is no part replacement? I've now done 92k and four years old.Just started to get the steering knock at low speed and slight bumps. How do they fix the problem without parts? It involves you driving the car to them, leaving it with them and getting it back in a repaired condition.

Nice and clean, nothing over the top, good job.

As a car enthusiast, that video makes me sad, every one of those cars were destroyed.

Yeah the 90k service is a fairly expensive one being a major. The plugs are a mongrel to get to.

Out of all the suggestions listed above, the only realistically viable setup is the one STYLSH has mentioned and even that would be in the $5000-$10000 range. RWD won't happen unless you have as much money as TRD USA. AWD, in theory could work, BUT there is no dedicated path under the floor pan to accomodate a prop shaft, or for a rear differential housing. The Klugers have a higher ground clearance than the Aurion as well as being designed for it to fit, so really costs would be just as high as a RWD setup with panel work etc.

5 years would be nice, but 4 is still good for fixed price services.

I'd like to know how it uses the hydraulic oil to "dampen" the movement. I wonder if they have used a hydraulic accumulator in the circuit to do this.

I liked the bits where the camera was on her

Shell used to have it on the market as well.

The Vampire type?

Holy grave dig...

Remember that the indicator cancel needs to be modified slightly.

You can't legally change it yourself. Do you have an air conditioning ticket or all the required specialist tools? If not pay the money or deal with no air conditioning. You will need to get it regassed anyways, so it won't work out any cheaper doing it yourself.