trentmeyer23

Yes a cd player will fit, the plastic trim just below/around the radio levers out from the bottom. There are 2 clips at the bottom of it that pop out using a small flat blade scew driver, then disconnect the cigarette lighter connectors.

Ahhh a warm and fuzzy, love-filled thread

Granted it's kinda cool, but very weak. Just like most nerds :P Sorry had to throw that in.

haha...you're not a truckie are ya. Anyways Welcome.

We pretty much stick to the 5S-FE/Camry/Celica threads because we have experience with them and their engines. Mick used to have an ST184 but has now moved on to an ST185 GT4 which WAS less than reliable, but he has been fixing its issues.

LOL it's always broken, then unbroken, then broken, it's now been unbroken for and extended period, so I'm getting worried. It's at Spring Hill.

I know that's what you were running but some think you are crazy :P 7 psi is the the general concensus of a *SAFE* figure, without overstressing components.

Spot on Hiro, i was looking at a pair of them today as i was sanding them...I don't see what the issue is though. The 3S-FE has EFI on the intake.

We have a meet every Thursday, there's always a Celica there.

Mine wasn't a 5S-FTE(Turbo) it was was a 5S-FZE(Supercharged). Mine would have been a more costly, but if you count costs you will go crazy. I am in the middle of a 5S-GTE build currently, just awaiting the arrival of my pistons. The 5S-GTE(Turbo with a 3S-GTE head on 5S-FE block) option is considerably more expensive done properly, but more beneficial. Best bang for buck would be the 5S-FTE, just don't get too greedy and push it past 7 psi on stock internals.

This was on carsales last year.

I sat in and played with Stu's Herpes

I'll be there, gunna start heading into the loop shortly. Stupid long drive.

Remove wife/girlfriend from car and retest. Has the transmission got sufficient fluid?

Oh yeah if it's wet I have no idea where it is...

Stock is 24mm for the front, so it probably is thick enough. The stock rear is 14mm and the Whiteline is 18mm. So if you wanted a beefy front swaybar, bump it to 26mm or 28mm. But as I said probably not necessary. Trust me when I say this, the rear swaybar is the best value for money suspension mod I can recommend.

The old ones had about 2mm of play in them. I just asked for skateboard bearings. I got them at CBC bearings when I bought the new rear main seal ($35 for the seal and bearings) as another thread here said to do, http://au.toyotaowne...=1 I don't think the particular brand is a problem, just follow the instructions. The shifting is more direct, but it does highlight the other rattles in the shifter now. I've been told that Brass bushings in the gearstick end fix them, I not sure yet. But the stand out is the clutch, so soft and easy on the left leg now. I have brass bushings in the linkages and the shofter base in the Camry and it's still noisy, but I dont care, I'd rather the precise shift.

You will have to fab up a front sway bar if you want one and while you're at it, make me one. :) You can buy the strut braces and rear sway bars.

I might come, just to flip it

They are a decent turbo and I'm chasing one for my build. But on an MR2 I would upgrade. :)

What does the turbo have written on the compressor housing? Toyota or Toyota CT-26? you're going to tell me the difference hey trent... lol its just got 'Toyota' on it as far as i could see... and whats better? Put it this way, it you want to sell the turbo, let me know.

What does the turbo have written on the compressor housing? Toyota or Toyota CT-26?

Don't worry about the VIN matching up, it almost never will on that site. I think you car has the turbo i want :P

Ease up mate, maybe no-one knows much about it, whether it's worth it or not. Maybe check out the MR2 Owners Club forums. :)

nice...custom is always fun