Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
Do you think you could trace the cutouts on paper and post them. I wouldn't mind at least making the mounts before I pull the doors apart just to reduce the time the car is in peices. Did you trim and further after you cut them out ? Obviously the speaker cutout is dependant on what speakers I use . . . Also - are there any electrical connectors I'd need to buy to match the existing speaker cable connectors or are they just spade connectors to the speakers?

I should be able to trace them on cardboard for you. Im not sure what your asking in response to "Did you trim and further after you cut them out?" In terms of the electrical connectors i simply spliced into the factory leads and attached a small amount of cable supplied with the speakers. This way i can put the factory speakers back in of need be.

Posted

i currently have focal speakers in my corolla running off alpine amp (got cheap would of rathered a focal amp, but alpine will do for now as i think alpine r very annoying with all their preset eq crap :( ) Also considered mb quarts as they have a warmer sound than the focals. But the focals r so clinical in the sound. If you want sound quality go focal or mb quarts. Not the loudest speakers but very very good sq.

Posted
Do you think you could trace the cutouts on paper and post them. I wouldn't mind at least making the mounts before I pull the doors apart just to reduce the time the car is in peices. Did you trim and further after you cut them out ? Obviously the speaker cutout is dependant on what speakers I use . . . Also - are there any electrical connectors I'd need to buy to match the existing speaker cable connectors or are they just spade connectors to the speakers?

I should be able to trace them on cardboard for you. Im not sure what your asking in response to "Did you trim and further after you cut them out?" In terms of the electrical connectors i simply spliced into the factory leads and attached a small amount of cable supplied with the speakers. This way i can put the factory speakers back in of need be.

By "Did you trim and further after you cut them out?" I meant once you cut them from the sheet of ply/MDF did you need to trim them anymore to make them fit. Hence the original cutout might be different to the final mount. Are you able to scan the trace + post ?

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

After reading about the how and what, I too decided to replace them, I'd decided on DLS components for front and was adviced don't bother to replace the rear speakers by the experts at the shop. With only the front replaced, the sound is warm and full of details and the bass is solid, very happy with the outomes and now thinking of also replace the rear with a basic DLS 6x9. :whistling:

Super Audio in Phillips, ACT did the installation for me and is highly recommended.

post-7596-1211421485_thumb.jpg

post-7596-1211421549_thumb.jpg


Posted
now thinking of also replace the rear with a basic DLS 6x9. :whistling:

Don't, they dont fit.

Posted

As we are all aware, if we hook up the speakers the wrong way it can distort and muffel the sound, so my question, on the front speakers withc is the postive and which is the negitive.??

Thanks guys.!

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
How do you remove the back seat... Im getting frustrated!

The way the back seat is held down is quite shocking. In most cars you have a tab you can pull on to release it, but unfortunately on the Aurion it is just a matter of pulling the seat up with some force. There are two 'clips' that hold the seat down and it is best to squeeze your hand as close to the clip as possible and pull up. If you have larger hands, you can use a long screwdriver to lever it up. It's kind of hard to explain; but if you use a torch and look under the front end of the seat while trying to raise it, you will see what I mean. I have included a picture so you can get a general idea of where those clips are (I have circled them in red).

Once that is out, you can remove the back rest portion of the seat by removing three bolts that are located near the bottom of the seat belts.

th.2356f872e8.jpg

Posted
How do you remove the back seat... Im getting frustrated!

The way the back seat is held down is quite shocking. In most cars you have a tab you can pull on to release it, but unfortunately on the Aurion it is just a matter of pulling the seat up with some force. There are two 'clips' that hold the seat down and it is best to squeeze your hand as close to the clip as possible and pull up. If you have larger hands, you can use a long screwdriver to lever it up. It's kind of hard to explain; but if you use a torch and look under the front end of the seat while trying to raise it, you will see what I mean. I have included a picture so you can get a general idea of where those clips are (I have circled them in red).

Once that is out, you can remove the back rest portion of the seat by removing two bolts that are located near the bottom of the seat belts.

th.2356f872e8.jpg

Thanks mate, even in my old toyota soarer it had a leaver to un-clip the seat... yeh i new those clips were there.. but didnt wanna break ne thing... pretty poor design lol

Posted

Yeah, it really is an awful design. I was amazed that it didn't break when I pulled the seat off. When you think about it, how often does the average car owner remove their rear seat? I guess little changes like that save money for manufacturers in the end.

Posted
How do you remove the back seat... Im getting frustrated!

The way the back seat is held down is quite shocking. In most cars you have a tab you can pull on to release it, but unfortunately on the Aurion it is just a matter of pulling the seat up with some force. There are two 'clips' that hold the seat down and it is best to squeeze your hand as close to the clip as possible and pull up. If you have larger hands, you can use a long screwdriver to lever it up. It's kind of hard to explain; but if you use a torch and look under the front end of the seat while trying to raise it, you will see what I mean. I have included a picture so you can get a general idea of where those clips are (I have circled them in red).

Once that is out, you can remove the back rest portion of the seat by removing two bolts that are located near the bottom of the seat belts.

th.2356f872e8.jpg

Thanks mate, even in my old toyota soarer it had a leaver to un-clip the seat... yeh i new those clips were there.. but didnt wanna break ne thing... pretty poor design lol

becareful with it, coz i broke mine in camry.. very stupid design

Posted

Has anyone got the stock 4 speakers from the Aurion they want to sell me? The 4 i had ended up in the bin after being mutilated...

I am putting the car back to stock in preperation to get rid of the heap of unfixable crap. And no, the next car (or ever for that matter) will be another piece of s-h-i-t Toyota.

Posted

hey mate,

im thinking about doing the same to my car, im prepareed to do the front speakers myself but the rear ones look like a big job.

how long does it take to get all the stuff out of the back and is it as hard as it looks??

would u trust someoone like WOW sight and sound to install them? or is it too much of a job?

cheers for your help

Posted

has anyone measured the depth of the front doors?

between the window down and the speaker mount?

  • 1 month later...
Posted
Need some help. I purchased a pair of Boston Acoustic 6x9's S953 for the front of the car, however after pulling the panels off I find that its going to be a very tight fit even with a baffle. The speakers midrange and tweeter stick out of the woofer making the overall depth about 11cms. The distance from the glass to the speaker cover on the door panel is only about 5mm bigger, if that.

Im thinking of installing these speakers in the rear, and purchasing some MB Quart entry level 6x9's for the front as they are about 9cm overall from bottom of magnet to top of speaker.

My question is, do you guys think the boston's would fit in the rear? Is the depth bigger in the back? I know you mentioned the springs in the back. If distance between the spring and the parcel shelf speaker cover is even 1cm bigger than the front, i should be able to fit them in.

thanks.

Just refer to the query about the springs in the back. I just installed a set of MTX TDX6293 6x9's which have a massive magnet on them. Tried raising them but they wouldn't stay under the original trim. I took it to my mate who is a panel beater and he was able to place a bend in the brackets so it would clear the magnet. Easy solution!!!

Posted (edited)

An even easier solution is to do what I did. Purchase 2 pairs of 6x9's that were designed to fit the car:

http://icondealerservice.com/catalog/index...mp;productId=10

They aren't cheap, but they sound fantastic!

I installed a decent amp to power them and a JL Audio CleanSweep to clean up and convert the signal to low level. Then some Dynamat sound deadening to stop the rattles.

These speakers go straight in without any mods. Can handle heaps of power too with almost no distortion up at those levels (mine's getting 200W RMS to each).

Apparently you can connect them up to the standard deck with great results too, due to thier sensitivity.

Edited by yeah mate
Posted
As we are all aware, if we hook up the speakers the wrong way it can distort and muffel the sound, so my question, on the front speakers withc is the postive and which is the negitive.??

Thanks guys.!

I also had this problem and took a while to locate the info in the service manuals. This is what the speaker polarities are:

Front Left:

Pink +

Purple -

Front Right:

Green +

Blue -

Rear Left:

Black +

Yellow -

Rear Right:

Red +

White -

Hope this helps :)

Also, if anyone was interested in purchasing the Camry 6x9 adaptors from ebay in the US http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/6x9-Front-S...emZ310013400843

DONT BOTHER!!! The quality of these things is terrible! I bought them on the intention that they would be sufficient but when I got them after 3 weeks they are tacky and are not sealed!! The base part and the top piece are separated with massive holes in them so you will loose all bass and make upgrading your speakers a total waste of time.

The only good that came of these were to use them as a template for making the adaptors properly out of MDF! I have just finished installing a set of JL Audio TR 6x9 speakers in the front (will finish the rear's off tomorrow) being powered off the aftermarket DVD/GPS headunit from AusPack (awesome headunit for the price + features). The sound is amazing and clear, not to mention loud as *****!! You WILL hear things you have never heard before in your music :)

If anyone is interested I can scan the adaptors into a PDF document and upload them somewhere so people can simply print off the template and then cut them out from MDF. I used 6mm for the base piece and 16mm for the upper piece. It is solid and tight, nothing gets through it. Oh do yourself a favor before you install new speakers, buy a pack of Dynamat Extreme Door kit. Even with the stock speakers it makes all the difference in the world!

Posted

CBR-SX6,

I think it would be a great idea to scan the adaptors into a PDF document and upload them somewhere so people can simply print off the template and then cut them out from MDF.

That would have saved me heaps of time if I had a document to refer to when making some mdf adaptors. This website is a good resource for all Aurion owners, and adding info like that only makes this website better!

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
Mkay:

Did you also plan to remove the existing tweeter? if so what do those look like as I was just thinking of using the existing ones ones and just using coaxials to replace the four.

I upgraded the front speakers to a set of MB Quart splits. The upgrade is definitely worth it.

Here is a pic of the stock tweeter from the Aurion. It has a power handling of 17.5watts RMS.

Hi dude,

I was just wondering how to remove the front tweeter speaker grill without breaking the clips ?? I have a rattle there when its cold and would like to fix it quickly as it bugges the Sh*t out of me !!

Thanks

Rick.

Posted
I was just wondering how to remove the front tweeter speaker grill without breaking the clips ??

The clips are of a soft plastic and breaking them by removal would be nothing to worry about. I actually like the clips like this because they are more hard wearing and cause less rattle. Removing the speaker grille for the tweeters are as easy as inserting a small flat-blade into there and prying it up. There are two clips to pop. This is not to say that you don't run the risk of hitting a bump on the way. Armed with my trusty Leatherman Squirt, I set off to show you the best points to pop the grille off.

Insert your flat-blade at least 1cm into these two points and lever the screwdriver so it comes towards a horizontal position while applying upward pressure:

dsc02857ys9.th.jpg dsc02856bu1.th.jpg dsc02854rm9.th.jpg

Now, if you are not so lucky like me, you will end up with this:

dsc02833ph8.th.jpg

Notice something missing on the right? Well looks like it got left behind:

dsc02831mo6.th.jpg dsc02828bl9.th.jpg

Now, fishing this out can go one of two ways. You may manage to get it out with pliers, but one slip and it will fall through. Since I managed to get mine stuck there in the first place, guess which way it when when I tried to fish it out? Looking through with a torch underneath, it appears that it should have dropped to the carpet below:

dsc02838lr9.th.jpg

Unfortunately not. So the fun part. I had to contort my body around to get a good look up to the area surrounding it. It appears there is A/C ducting there and it fell on that. While bent around in that position, I took a photo to show just how fun it was to reach there. Big wrists/hands... good luck:

dsc02843uc6.th.jpg

Ahh... back to normal again:

dsc02853vt3.th.jpg

Obviously, if you get the grille off without having a clip get stuck behind, the process is extremely simple. Just a small flat-blade is all you need.

  • 2 months later...
  • 3 months later...
Posted

Hey guys,

been reading up a bit and will soon change the speakers my self

few q's

i see you have used 1x16mm and 1x9mm sheet any reason you couldn't just use a single bit of 25mm?

Cheers

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Hey guys I was lookin at changing my 6x9s over in the Camry, I have the sat nav flip down headunit

and was just wonderin if I just change the speakers over will they sound ok running off the standard headunit?

I got told they would sound similar to standard off the headunit unless I ran a amp?

What experiences has anyone had out there with just swappin em over

Cheers

Posted
Hey guys I was lookin at changing my 6x9s over in the Camry, I have the sat nav flip down headunit

and was just wonderin if I just change the speakers over will they sound ok running off the standard headunit?

I got told they would sound similar to standard off the headunit unless I ran a amp?

What experiences has anyone had out there with just swappin em over

Cheers

No direct experience with the Aurion myself, by I have heard from others and from working on previous cars myself, that changing the stock speakers over and keeping the standard head unit will make a really big difference. If you've seen the stock speakers on the Aurion, you will no doubt understand why aftermarket will sound much better. Unless of course you have a car with a very good sound system from the factory (ie. BOSE or Rockford Fosgate), keeping the stock system with aftermarket speakers may be all you need.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now




  • Join The Club

    Join the Toyota Owners Club and be part of the Community. It's FREE!

  • Latest Postings

    1. 18

      High idling on the 2zzge even when warm (solved!)

    2. 5

      High RPM Idle after the engine warm up.

    3. 0

      Tow bar

    4. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

    5. 0

      2011 Land Cruiser 1VD-FTV Engine Won't Start After Overhaul

    6. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

    7. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

    8. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

    9. 1

      Snapping wheel and axle studs

    10. 0

      2zz idle / roughness when accelerating past 3k

×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership