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The STUPID thread


theDefiant1

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Is there anyway to fix broken cam?

you cant repair a cam and you wil have bent valves.the head would have to come off and professionally repaired.if the car is old it might be cheaper to get a 2nd hand engine.

Evo

Cams aren't in the engine Evan. They are split in 2. Is it possible to fuse the 2 pieces together welding or otherwise?

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Cams aren't in the engine Evan. They are split in 2. Is it possible to fuse the 2 pieces together welding or otherwise?

Nothing is impossible. But that said, things can be rather difficult. I would imagine that such a thing could be performed but it's integrity will be fairly compromised to the point that you're better off getting a new one. This would be even more critical the higher the engine redline is. Correct me if I'm wrong, but for an engine like the 2ZZ, would the cams also have to be of the balanced variety? If this is the case, it's just one more thing that has to be done carefully when repairing.

Not worth it in my opinion since if it fails again, the engine may be less lucky. Not to mention that it would be more cost efficient to get new ones compared to paying to get the old ones repaired as well as they can be.

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Cams aren't in the engine Evan. They are split in 2. Is it possible to fuse the 2 pieces together welding or otherwise?

Nothing is impossible. But that said, things can be rather difficult. I would imagine that such a thing could be performed but it's integrity will be fairly compromised to the point that you're better off getting a new one. This would be even more critical the higher the engine redline is. Correct me if I'm wrong, but for an engine like the 2ZZ, would the cams also have to be of the balanced variety? If this is the case, it's just one more thing that has to be done carefully when repairing.

Not worth it in my opinion since if it fails again, the engine may be less lucky. Not to mention that it would be more cost efficient to get new ones compared to paying to get the old ones repaired as well as they can be.

I know it would be the easier to buy a new one but only one of them is damaged :(

Wouldn't maching shops be able to balance it afterwards? I'm more concerned about trying to fuse them. Not too sure what coating is on the cams and if the mater is easily welded or otherwise..

BTW these weren't damaged because of an engine. It was due to shipping and handling <_< :angry:

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Ring Tighe Engineering in Brisbane and discuss with them, they will tell you what is possible; but I don't like your chances. Would you weld a crank shaft back together?

Edit: just read your thread. Get in contact with MWR to see what your options are, but you can't claim on insurance? I'd also be checking to ensure no extra bits of metal are hiding in the head. Curious to see photos of it actually to see where it has broken.

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Ring Tighe Engineering in Brisbane and discuss with them, they will tell you what is possible; but I don't like your chances. Would you weld a crank shaft back together?

Edit: just read your thread. Get in contact with MWR to see what your options are, but you can't claim on insurance? I'd also be checking to ensure no extra bits of metal are hiding in the head. Curious to see photos of it actually to see where it has broken.

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Edited by and1
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  • 2 weeks later...

G'day fellows

My stupid question of the day.

Would a Century Battery - NS40ZLS, 305 CCA suit and fit Corolla Conquest 05 well? (not sure how much yet.)

There is no sound system in the car.

I also came across with a SCA battery 9 plate 270 CCA on the supercheap catalogue for $85.

Which one would you guys prefer or are there anything recommended out there?

I have done some search, I learn that people suggest Century and Bosch.

My budget is about $120.

Thanks in advance.

D35

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  • 2 weeks later...

My stupid question of the week..

How do I know If the imported goods for the GB have arrived in Australia? Will the custom contact me? The last time I imported my wheels, my sister told me coz she somehow knows the airport people where the goods were sent from.

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My stupid question of the week..

How do I know If the imported goods for the GB have arrived in Australia? Will the custom contact me? The last time I imported my wheels, my sister told me coz she somehow knows the airport people where the goods were sent from.

If the goods are less than $1000, you will find out they are in Australia when it arrives at your door (presuming you don't have a tracking number).

If the goods are worth more than $1000, you'll get a letter from Customs saying you owe them XXX for duties. They won't be released from customs until you pay the required monies.

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Now without me having to call up (because I'm lazy), does anyone know if Holiday Double Demerit points apply here in Queensland. I know they do in NSW, but I'm not sure about here anymore.

It's like they have done it before here, but dropped the idea.

And if the answer is somewhere along the lines of 'they do it when they feel like it, etc', does this apply over the Easter long weekend?

Edit: Hmmm, I just found this. Seems good so far.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Is it illegal to put different size wheels on the front than the back and are there any other concerns you might think of if it was done?

I temporarily want to put my old 17" wheels on the front of the car but im lazy and want to keep the 19" on the back while the car goes in for a service. I am afraid of them damaging my wheels during a warranty fix.

Obvious answer is to change all wheels, but this is the stupid question thread. :P

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I don't know if it's legal, but plenty of people do it anyway :P [cough]'drifters'[/cough]

Plenty of cars from the factory do it (MR-S, Lotus, etc), but again ADR basically say if the car came that way it's probably ok.

Be lazy, you know you want to :ph34r:

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Can anyone think of what in my engine bay would be causing a fish food smell? The smell is just that, like flaked fish food. It seems to be localised around the left side of the engine bay (accessory side viewed from the front). It's not overly strong and you need to put your head rather close to notice it. I can't seem to figure out what it is. I'm sure nothing has died there because the smell has remained the same over the last couple of weeks.

Is there anything in particular that could burn up in there that can smell like that?

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Can anyone think of what in my engine bay would be causing a fish food smell? The smell is just that, like flaked fish food. It seems to be localised around the left side of the engine bay (accessory side viewed from the front). It's not overly strong and you need to put your head rather close to notice it. I can't seem to figure out what it is. I'm sure nothing has died there because the smell has remained the same over the last couple of weeks.

Is there anything in particular that could burn up in there that can smell like that?

Maybe some bug bodies are caught up somewhere hidden...you did hit em pretty hard a couple of weeks back.

when i was a sales rep and did a lot of country runs every now and then i would get a fish food/fertilizer type smell and found out there was a ball of damp bug bodies causing it.

not sure if it's the same,just a thought. :)

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Maybe some bug bodies are caught up somewhere hidden...you did hit em pretty hard a couple of weeks back.

when i was a sales rep and did a lot of country runs every now and the i would get a fish food/fertilizer type smell and found out there was a ball of damp bug bodies causing it.

not sure if it's the same,just a thought. :)

Quite possible actually. I thought it all would have reached a point now where any remaining bugs in there would be dried out to the point where they wouldn't have any smell to them. I did give the engine bay a pretty serious hose out though when I got back. I guess I must have missed a spot.

It's just a bit of a bummer though cause it's not going to be easy to search for the source, and if I could, I'm not sure if it's going to be something I want to see. I don't finding stuff like that. Might have to hit it with the Gerni again.

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My silly question...lightweight alloy wheel nuts,do you have to keep an eye on em and tighten up as required?

my drama is when i took my BClubs off before the repairs i noticed the nuts had ever so slightly backed off,then when i put em back on after the hail damaged was repaired i checked em after a 100km's or so and they have backed off again,not as much this time but enough to warrant a quick nip up,is this normal with these type of nuts?

29z7gxz.jpg

i thought i'd post a pic so you can see the style/type i'm using

Cheers

Lee

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what have you got them torqued to?

Not sure mate,just using a breaker bar & socket...i know every time i nip them up i do them as tight as possible,if i went any harder i reckon i could snap a wheel stud,so there pretty tight.

i checked em again yesterday and the were still as tight as a drum,now i'm thinking that maybe with these type/style of wheel nuts they need a second tighten after a couple of 100km's after fitting,or maybe it's just my setup. :unsure:

hopefully someone thats used or using similar lightweight alloy wheelnuts can confirm my theory or squash it. ;)

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what have you got them torqued to?

Not sure mate,just using a breaker bar & socket...i know every time i nip them up i do them as tight as possible,if i went any harder i reckon i could snap a wheel stud,so there pretty tight.

i checked em again yesterday and the were still as tight as a drum,now i'm thinking that maybe with these type/style of wheel nuts they need a second tighten after a couple of 100km's after fitting,or maybe it's just my setup. :unsure:

hopefully someone thats used or using similar lightweight alloy wheelnuts can confirm my theory or squash it. ;)

Rule number one with wheel nuts of any kind - always torque them up with a torque wrench if possible. For steel wheel nuts, it should be roughly 100Nm (alloy ones might be more or less).

Rule number two with wheel nuts is to always re-torque them after a short period of driving, as when you initially torque them they haven't gone through a proper load cycle.

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Rule number one with wheel nuts of any kind - always torque them up with a torque wrench if possible. For steel wheel nuts, it should be roughly 100Nm (alloy ones might be more or less).

Rule number two with wheel nuts is to always re-torque them after a short period of driving, as when you initially torque them they haven't gone through a proper load cycle.

This.

100 Nm feels surprisingly low when you actually use the torque wrench for the first time. Using a breaker bar you can easily get 190 N; which if you were the bloke next to me at the last track day stuffed his aluminium (or whatever) nuts.

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Rule number one with wheel nuts of any kind - always torque them up with a torque wrench if possible. For steel wheel nuts, it should be roughly 100Nm (alloy ones might be more or less).

Rule number two with wheel nuts is to always re-torque them after a short period of driving, as when you initially torque them they haven't gone through a proper load cycle.

This.

100 Nm feels surprisingly low when you actually use the torque wrench for the first time. Using a breaker bar you can easily get 190 N; which if you were the bloke next to me at the last track day stuffed his aluminium (or whatever) nuts.

An expansion on those rules is this - remember that if you have to change a tyre by the side of the road, you need to be able to do it with a standard tyre iron etc. 100Nm is about what you can put on one of those easily (most of the time when I do up my wheel nuts I do it with an iron/cross, and then the very last bit with the torque wrench, which is rarely more than 20-30 degrees. If you put it on with a breaker bar, chances are you'd need one to get it off (same goes with rattle guns), and most people don't carry breaker bars around with them in the boot :P

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