Jump to content


Air intake mods


ELEGNT

Recommended Posts

Rowan did attempt some videos guys. Look back on page 7:

intake gave it a reasonably deep note

Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

wasnt me driving btw, cousin just got a taste of the transmission lag and hit limiter lol

but that raaaaaahhh noise is the intake

Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rowan did attempt some videos guys. Look back on page 7:
intake gave it a reasonably deep note

Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

wasnt me driving btw, cousin just got a taste of the transmission lag and hit limiter lol

but that raaaaaahhh noise is the intake

Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

hi DJKOR did you check out adaptors for the air mass meter? i have now removed all of the airbox, but was not sure what to do with the vacuum hoses so i just connected the hose from the intake manifold to the vacuum conection on the SRI.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


hi DJKOR did you check out adaptors for the air mass meter? i have now removed all of the airbox, but was not sure what to do with the vacuum hoses so i just connected the hose from the intake manifold to the vacuum conection on the SRI.

No I haven't. Been a bit lazy these days. Also have some other plans in the works.

I can see one hose there that you have connected incorrectly. What you are meant to do is connect the two small vacuum lines together that originally connected to the top corner of the airbox. You then block off the branch of the T-piece later down the line that originally fed the butterfly valve for the stock intake box. Only two lines will then connect to your new intake. The large hose which is for crankcase ventilation, and a small vacuum hose that was originally connected to the upper resonator.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi DJKOR did you check out adaptors for the air mass meter? i have now removed all of the airbox, but was not sure what to do with the vacuum hoses so i just connected the hose from the intake manifold to the vacuum conection on the SRI.

No I haven't. Been a bit lazy these days. Also have some other plans in the works.

I can see one hose there that you have connected incorrectly. What you are meant to do is connect the two small vacuum lines together that originally connected to the top corner of the airbox. You then block off the branch of the T-piece later down the line that originally fed the butterfly valve for the stock intake box. Only two lines will then connect to your new intake. The large hose which is for crankcase ventilation, and a small vacuum hose that was originally connected to the upper resonator.

have changed them around and have blocked off the grey pipe, i can hear the switch, down near the bottom of the radiator clicking when i start up and turn off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

have changed them around and have blocked off the grey pipe, i can hear the switch, down near the bottom of the radiator clicking when i start up and turn off.

That's good then. Just to let you know, you have to have those two hoses connected that go down towards the bottom of the radiator if you want your car to run like it should. Your front engine mount uses vacuum to help reduce vibration at idle speeds.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

have changed them around and have blocked off the grey pipe, i can hear the switch, down near the bottom of the radiator clicking when i start up and turn off.

That's good then. Just to let you know, you have to have those two hoses connected that go down towards the bottom of the radiator if you want your car to run like it should. Your front engine mount uses vacuum to help reduce vibration at idle speeds.

thanks again DJKOR I wondered where those hoses went, anyway I was not happy with the alignment of the SRI , behind the battery so I swapped the section with the air mass meter with the vacuum hose section (see pic ) and aligned it with the top air intake snorkel to draw more cooler air in, sort of cross between an SRI and a CAI I spose. works a treat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
have changed them around and have blocked off the grey pipe, i can hear the switch, down near the bottom of the radiator clicking when i start up and turn off.

That's good then. Just to let you know, you have to have those two hoses connected that go down towards the bottom of the radiator if you want your car to run like it should. Your front engine mount uses vacuum to help reduce vibration at idle speeds.

thanks again DJKOR I wondered where those hoses went, anyway I was not happy with the alignment of the SRI , behind the battery so I swapped the section with the air mass meter with the vacuum hose section (see pic ) and aligned it with the top air intake snorkel to draw more cooler air in, sort of cross between an SRI and a CAI I spose. works a treat.

here is the final setup for my intake, I have found that a smaller pod works best. the only setback I have had is on the highway the tranny wont go from 4th to 5th it sticks, getting new ecu wed might fix it, changes ok in S mode though. love that feeling of the car nearly floating giving it some stick ! I have also just put the vacuum hose from phelam chamber to the intake, I did not notice any difference eliminating the vacuum to the engine mount.

Edited by scootastaxisx6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

FYI From Fujita.

Quote from FujitaOnline.com

___________________

FujitaOnline.com is currently closed.

FujitaOnline.com is an authorized dealer for Fujita Air. Currently we are no longer taking any more new orders due to management changes within FujitaOnline.com, a RideTuner company.

If you placed an order on FujitaOnline.com and have not received your product or a shipping confirmation email from us, you will be receiving an email from us regarding the cancellation and refund of your order.

When FujitaOnline.com resumes normal operation we will open FujitaOnline.com once again.

If you have any questions for us, please do not hesitate to email us at sales@fujitaonline.com

If you need to contact Fujita Air directly you can email them at info@f5air.com or by phone 951-834-9290.

We sincerely apologize for all inconveniences that this has caused.

Sincerely,

Sales Team

FujitaOnline.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I blocked off the lower resonator today and can definitely hear the difference after 3500rpm..

The car idled 500-700rpm higher than usual for about 2 minutes then went down to normal idle speed. I'm not sure what that means.. it might be nothing, but I like to think there was an airflow improvement and it adjusted it's self. :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I blocked off the lower resonator today and can definitely hear the difference after 3500rpm..

If you think that made a difference in sound, you should hear what changing the upper resonator together with changine the vacuum hoses around does. Nowhere near a SRI, but it sounds half decent. I am so buying a K&N SRI after Christmas.

The car idled 500-700rpm higher than usual for about 2 minutes then went down to normal idle speed. I'm not sure what that means.. it might be nothing, but I like to think there was an airflow improvement and it adjusted it's self. :P

I can guarantee you that the increase in RPM had nothing to do with removing that resonator. The lower resonator barely provides any resistance to airflow, so the engine won't even notice it gone.

I would say that it was more to do with the engine 'cold start' process. I've had it happen with mine before where it thinks it is a cold start even when the engine is warm, and idles higher than normal, but drops down within about a minute.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I blocked off the lower resonator today and can definitely hear the difference after 3500rpm..

If you think that made a difference in sound, you should hear what changing the upper resonator does. Nowhere near a SRI, but it sounds half decent. I am so buying a K&N SRI after Christmas.

The car idled 500-700rpm higher than usual for about 2 minutes then went down to normal idle speed. I'm not sure what that means.. it might be nothing, but I like to think there was an airflow improvement and it adjusted it's self. :P

I can guarantee you that the increase in RPM had nothing to do with removing that resonator. The lower resonator barely provides any resistance to airflow, so the engine won't even notice it gone.

I would say that it was more to do with the engine 'cold start' process. I've had it happen with mine before where it thinks it is a cold start even when the engine is warm, and idles higher than normal, but drops down within about a minute.

Thanks for crushing my dreams.. LOL.. It probably has something to do with disconnecting the battery for an extended period of time as well.

There are pros an cons to having a deeper note. pro: I like the sound and passengers are surprised.. con: The fiancee has a fit every time I go over 3000rpm because she can hear the engine and probably now more so. So what if I like to over take people???

Cool, definitely do the SRI!!! I have the moding bug but shouldnt be spending money :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It probably has something to do with disconnecting the battery for an extended period of time as well.

That there would be your answer. You have reset your ECU. You better drive it hard for the next hundred k's or so. Make it learn it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry if this has been asked but how does teh open air pod setups go for rego?

Pass or fail? <_<

there maybe different regulations for this particular mod, state to state. you would have to check the regulations in your area, if this is legal.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any response on the rego :D ?

You don't need an inspection don't you if your car is under 5 years old right? If that's the case, you should be fine. Otherwise it needs to be enclosed (for NSW). I'm not sure what your registration inspection covers though. A NSW local would have to answer that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Any response on the rego :D ?

You don't need an inspection don't you if your car is under 5 years old right? If that's the case, you should be fine. Otherwise it needs to be enclosed (for NSW). I'm not sure what your registration inspection covers though. A NSW local would have to answer that.

with mine being a taxi, it gets inspected twice yearly, and there is no problem having it in open space here. had the same setup on the camry for 4 years.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the problem with a section for laws is that they are constantly changing and the penalties change too.. so it would be pretty hard to keep up with the changes... :(

its pretty hard to find info on the gov's sites, but all the info you need *should* be on there.. just set aside 4 days to find the info... :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm a noob.. I want to do this but im not confident enough to take it apart >_<

For what it's worth, just removing this does not provide much increase in induction sound. You have to be listening to notice it.

Removing it though is as easy as shifting the battery aside and then removing the front snorkel and reaching down to take out the resonator. It's like a 5 minute job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm a noob.. I want to do this but im not confident enough to take it apart >_<

For what it's worth, just removing this does not provide much increase in induction sound. You have to be listening to notice it.

Removing it though is as easy as shifting the battery aside and then removing the front snorkel and reaching down to take out the resonator. It's like a 5 minute job.

I agree with DJKOR. The difference is minimal but still worth the quick mod.

It is really easy, breifly read over that forum link you posted then just go for it. I opted to leave the resinator in (after reading DJKORs posts) and blocked it off by using some thick plastics held in place with some rubber bands and then thick electrical tape over the top of the white resinator so it fits snug into the black intake. It isnt going anywhere but I can take the plastic out in a few minutes if I ever needed.

Note: Disconnect the negative terminal socket before the positive terminal socket. Otherwise, you may short circuit the positive terminal to a grounded part of the car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.





  • Join The Club

    Join the Toyota Owners Club and be part of the Community. It's FREE!

  • Latest Postings

    1. 17

      Wobble at the front

    2. 7

      Brake issues

    3. 10

      Best Oil for 2014 Lancruiser GXL 200 series TT V8 Diesel

    4. 25

      RADIO CODES "HELP"

    5. 17

      Wobble at the front

    6. 11

      rear wheel arch hole covers (3rd row seats removed)

    7. 1

      2013 Kluger grande Bluetooth music issues

    8. 0

      2010 MANUAL Prado with high speed acceleration hickup

    9. 0

      Fuel filter change - start stops running

    10. 10

      Best Oil for 2014 Lancruiser GXL 200 series TT V8 Diesel

×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership