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Posted (edited)

hey guys, my problem is when the car is dead cold when i go to start it it just ticks over but wont start. it sounds like either its not getting any fuel or its not igniting the fuel. it will tick over as long as you hold the key, after a few tries it will start tho. this ONLY happens when its cold. and if you turn it off stright away it wont happen again until u let it rest for a wile. also when it starts it runs really rich.

took my car in to toyota on monday to get it fixed, got it back and they recon they fixed it by tightening the batery terminal cos they come loose, next morning didnt start. so i took it back and they had it up until today, told me that the seal in the fuel filter was stuffed so they replaced it and went to start it before and same deal just wont fire. so its going back on monday for another week probly.

so has anyone got any idea of what it could be, please thow me some ideas cos im stumped and toyota service are useless.

thanks in advance i will try and post a vid of it up soon

Edited by ELEGNT
Posted

I'd be looking at the MAF personally...

Posted

Yeah. What Jason said sounds like a good idea. I wouldn't think your MAF could get dirty that easily from an un-oiled filter, but you never know.

Maybe as well try cleaning your throttle body. If it only happens when cold, which is when your revs sit a bit higher than normal, a dirty TB could be restricting a bit of that necessary air flow. Just a thought.

On a side note, I hate hearing about people getting service departments to look at their car and they come back saying something like "your battery terminal was loose". Seriously. Reminds me of that guy from Boost. You better give those turkeys at Toyota a good mouthful.

If you're free tomorrow, I can help you clean both if you want.

Posted

Not sure mate,prolly what the other guys said,maybe clean up the MAF... :unsure:

Lucky ya don't live in Melbourne it's so freakin cold all the time she would never start... ;)

p.s A bit of luck your way at the moment wouldn't hurt by the sounds of it.


Posted

thats for that guys! what do i clean the MAF and the TB with, i know u can get TB cleaner but what would u use on the MAF?

thats for the offer daryl i wont have time today but ill get some stuff to clean it tomorw and let you know how it goes, cheers

Posted
thats for that guys! what do i clean the MAF and the TB with, i know u can get TB cleaner but what would u use on the MAF?

thats for the offer daryl i wont have time today but ill get some stuff to clean it tomorw and let you know how it goes, cheers

Carby cleaner. Take the whole shiznit off (yours is easy :P), give it a good spray down then let it sit in the sun for a little while to flash off.

Posted
thats for that guys! what do i clean the MAF and the TB with, i know u can get TB cleaner but what would u use on the MAF?

thats for the offer daryl i wont have time today but ill get some stuff to clean it tomorw and let you know how it goes, cheers

Carby cleaner. Take the whole shiznit off (yours is easy :P), give it a good spray down then let it sit in the sun for a little while to flash off.

so take the MAF (and the TB??) out and give it a good spray with carby cleaner

Posted

I wouldn't spray the MAF with carby cleaner... Electrical contact cleaner is what I used to use.

Posted

I would suggest against using the Throttle Body & Carby cleaner on your MAF sensor. Mainly because you're dealing with the MAF sensor here and it's not a cheap thing to stuff up. Using either MAF Sensor Cleaner or Contact Cleaner would be the way to go. I've got cans of these here so if you need a hand tomorrow, just let me know.

If you do get around to cleaning them yourself, clean the MAF first because you will need to start the engine right after cleaning the throttle body.

Edit: Yeah, by the time I got around to typing the reply, I get beat.

Posted

i'm not familiar with the 2gr-fe. do they have cold start injectors or some other method?

i'd be looking at the injectors anyway

Posted

Well once you've done the two simple parts (cleaning the MAF and TB), which doesn't hurt to do so anyways, here is what Toyota say for a difficult to start cold 2GR-FE:

1. Starter signal circuit ES-304

2. Electronic Throttle Control System (ETCS) ES-320

3. Fuel pump control circuit ES-449

4. Spark plug IG-5

5. Ignition system IG-3

6. Injector FU-15

7. Engine coolant temperature sensor

Just some of the recommended areas to check according to the manual.

While on the topic of injectors, you should run some Fuel Doctor through your car. I use that at every fill and it seems to keep everything running smoothly.

Posted
While on the topic of injectors, you should run some Fuel Doctor through your car. I use that at every fill and it seems to keep everything running smoothly.

Or give it an Italian tune up :lol:

Posted
While on the topic of injectors, you should run some Fuel Doctor through your car. I use that at every fill and it seems to keep everything running smoothly.

Or give it an Italian tune up :lol:

First thing I did to the TA22 when I had it, followed by a gutfull of carby cleaner right into the primaries :P I never found the limiter on that car, hit 7500rpm in neutral and still wanted to rev :unsure:

Posted

thanks heaps for the info everyone esp. daryl, i will be writing down that stuff and seeing i couldnt make it to your house today get those lasy bast*rds in the service department to clean the TB and MAF.

i will be sure to let everyone know what it was when i get it back, probly late this comeing week

thanks again

Posted

clean the maf sensor by using a cotton bud soaed in contact cleaner and then let completely air dry (even though its a solvent) This is what we got taught and drummed in when i did both honda suzuki technical schools for my trade u got to treat it basically like a halogen globe meaning dont touch the metal tabs etc.

i just did it to my mates 3.0l patrol on saturday because his had the same symptoms as u are displaying as well as clean the air intake and intercooler thourghly it totally fixed the problem and starts and runs better like it was new again.

if that doesnt fix it id be going for somthing like temp sensor they use these to determine a cold start or not obviously if the coolants warm it sends a signal telling the ecu the engine temp is warm etc therfore not needing cold start.

cheers

stewy

Posted (edited)

got my car back this arvo guys, turns out it was leaky injectors. wasnt the cold engine that was causing it it was it siting for a wile and fuel building up ontop of the piston so i got 6 new injectors. happy, but they scratched a big section of paint off my grill and said they never did it (im talking 10 cm long by 2 cm) bit of a dissapointment but oh well.

whay would injectors fail after 60k tho?

Edited by ELEGNT
Posted
First thing I did to the TA22 when I had it, followed by a gutfull of carby cleaner right into the primaries :P I never found the limiter on that car, hit 7500rpm in neutral and still wanted to rev :unsure:

Being a carby car, it wouldn't have had a rev-limiter....just valve bounce.

Posted
First thing I did to the TA22 when I had it, followed by a gutfull of carby cleaner right into the primaries :P I never found the limiter on that car, hit 7500rpm in neutral and still wanted to rev :unsure:

Being a carby car, it wouldn't have had a rev-limiter....just valve bounce.

I thought some dizzies had a built in spark cut?

Posted

Well fancy that. lateralus had the right idea there. I guess it explains why it was running rich at start up.

Sucks to hear about the grill. It's like they can't get everything right.

Posted
got my car back this arvo guys, turns out it was leaky injectors. wasnt the cold engine that was causing it it was it siting for a wile and fuel building up ontop of the piston so i got 6 new injectors. happy, but they scratched a big section of paint off my grill and said they never did it (im talking 10 cm long by 2 cm) bit of a dissapointment but oh well.

whay would injectors fail after 60k tho?

Easy... Made In China

Posted (edited)

it actually runs so much nicer with the new injectors feels so much crisper when you accelerate

It's like they can't get everything right.

but fancy you say that daryl cause i went to start it this morning and the c*nt wouldnt start!!! this just makes me want to sell it now more then ever, this will be the third week that toyota has had it when i take it in on monday, im over it.

Edited by ELEGNT
Posted
it actually runs so much nicer with the new injectors feels so much crisper when you accelerate
It's like they can't get everything right.

but fancy you say that daryl cause i went to start it this morning and the c*nt wouldnt start!!! this just makes me want to sell it now more then ever, this will be the third week that toyota has had it when i take it in on monday, im over it.

Hi Rowan

Sorry to hear of your dramas and the continual holiday your beast is having at Toyota. If nothing else, at least it'll be well sorted, and you might decide not to sell. <_<

Cheers mate

Posted

are you using the right key for the right car?

I've seen your driveway 313, just back it up the night before, the next day, just roll down it and presto, started.

whitestivo

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