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Strut Bars


maca_10

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Hey, just wondering what sort of setup everyone has in relationship to suspension.

It seems most people do the front strut bar and rear sway bar. I understand that they reduce body roll.

But my question is what does that mean for the everyday ride?? Is it harder or barely noticeable until you are really hammering into corners???

And also what sort of handling do these mods offer.

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click the search button and ye shall find.

in a nut shell, they both help in keeping the correct wheel alignment setting during cornering, regardless of how hard it is. in everyday driving, you will notice a difference in the levels of grip and crispness of steering.

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Front strut: nothing

Rear anti-roll bar (they don't 'sway' people!): reduces understeer, but increases lift-off over steer, ie. hard mid corner if you jump off the throttle there is a higher chance of the rear trying to pass the front.

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Front strut: nothing

Rear anti-roll bar (they don't 'sway' people!): reduces understeer, but increases lift-off over steer, ie. hard mid corner if you jump off the throttle there is a higher chance of the rear trying to pass the front.

I actually noticed a fair bit of an effect with a front strut bar fitted to my car (Paseo), more than I expected to get out of it.

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The closer your strut towers are to the firewall, the less benefit a strut brace will give you.

I got no benefit at all from a Shiteline Whiteline front strut brace, but an eBay cheapy gave me a decent improvement, due to it's forward design of the tower bar. I would think the Ultra Racing design (which looks like TTE/Cusco) would give a decent improvement too.

I also find the thing we call a sway bar that stiffens up the torsion/twist beam, doesn't do much either. I reckon one of those Ultra Racing sway bars that sits under the torsion/twist beam would give a dramatic increase in lift-off oversteer!

I found the Sportivo to be quite slap-happy with stock ride height, and by trying to reduce the body-roll, it would actually make the car even more so. Eibach springs totally kill any eratic oversteer, and an Ultra Racing (under) swaybar would go well with them I suspect (if you want the best of everything).

Gav.

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Even though the strut is one with the firewall in the Corolla, it still flexes. You probably won't notice it until you take off your strut bar and start to realise how comfortable but sloppy the steering is without it. And the difference is quite significant (I used Alutec strut bar). That's the first thing you'll notice. It actualy understeer more with it, but you can counter this with wheel alignment tuning.

For daily driving, and depending on how much comfort you seek, it is more comfortable without strut bar.

My recommnendation is change the swaybars first. I would change front and rear, but looks like everybody is happy by just changing the rear.

Then go with shocks/springs or coilover shocks.

Then finaly front and rear strut bar (optional).

And if that's still not enough, then perhaps this will do; TRD rear member brace.

p_brace-corolla.jpg

There is one Corolla in Australia that use TRD rear member brace. It's a dealer's car actualy, somewhere in Sydney.

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i have the front strut brace and the rear anti-sway bar (thats how everyone gets 'sway'-bar, as dave said it stops roll/swaying)

i use the summit front strut cause it was cheaper then the cusco but unlike the cusco it's not hollow. it has 3 braces running across the beem.. i found that it dose it's job, but if i could do things again, it wouldn't be the first thing i put in my car..

my best money spent,, was not the coils, but as DANZ said the trd rear anti-sway and a good wheel alignment by someone who knows what they are doing.. reason i didn't get a front anti-sway bar was cause you get alot more out of it if you have a front lsd which stops inside wheel spin..

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Another benefit of having a strut bar is to keep the chassis aligned. Ever wonder why some strut bar is adjustable? Because chassis flex and can go out of alignment, and fixed strut bar like TRD will not fit. Of course this is under extreme circumstances, but just to inform some of you guys.

And another benefit of swaybars is you'll find the shock will be able to absorb bumb and settle quicker, which made driving more comfortable. Not many people seems to mention this. Could be because it's not the case with rear torsion beam and not having a front swaybar to find out.

There are many benefits of having strut/swaybars, it's just a matter of knowing what you're after and go for it.

But remember, swaybars/strutbars/alignment kit they are supporters and your shock and tyre are still the major players in suspension.

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And another benefit of swaybars is you'll find the shock will be able to absorb bumb and settle quicker, which made driving more comfortable. Not many people seems to mention this. Could be because it's not the case with rear torsion beam and not having a front swaybar to find out.

I'd say its a case of more force being transfered to the other strut ;)

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I find that front struts help reduce some body roll and snappier steering, but only marginally

but you'll notice that overall handling is much better with a rear sway bar which reduces rear end twitch and understeer.

So it all comes down to your driving style, if you're not hard on the corners then they do little for its purpose other than

making your turning a bit stiff, absorbing bumps, and better tyre wear due to reduced body roll.

I use cusco fronts and trd sways on my rolla and it suits my reaction response to the car, as in stock my rolla has a tendency to

wobble like a grannys chair and the rear hops like a rabbit. (thats due to my driving style ><)

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The front strut bar made a bit of difference with my car. The steering was a little lighter and I could feel the car was more solid. I have the c-one type r front strut and you can feel the difference with daily driving.

The rear strut bar was one of the best mods in my opinion. I first experienced how easy it was for the car to understeer and got myself a trd rear sway bar and understeer was controlled so well and with the addition of the rear strut bar the car feels very rigid. The rear follows the front of the car very nicely and the weight of the car doesn't lean. I have the c-one rear strut bar and the difference with the rear strut and sway bar can be felt with just daily driving.

The c-one front sway bar I have made the steering feel awkwardly light. It felt too light in the beginning but then the feeling faded away as I got used to it. Many people here disagree with getting the front sway bar but I found them to keep the front very flat when turning. You can feel the difference as soon as you turn the steering wheel after installing, taking corners will surprise you.

I have also got the c-one front and rear underbrace. The effect of them can only be felt when taking a car for a hard run. The car feels super stable and as my friend puts it "it feels like an EG6 civic, it has better handling than his EP3"

Just to add, the car is so rigid now that its a bit snappy in the rain. not so good.

Edited by doublezero
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just to recap, besides the front and rear sway bars, other bars are actually not worth spending into? i had just placed an order for 5 bars including front and rear sway, 4 point front strut, 3 point front lower and a room bar.... in that case i might cut back the order...

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Doublezero: That's exactly my thoughts on the front and rear strut bars.

People i know say the rear strut does jack.. but i definately feel a difference, same with the front strut. Exactly as how you described.

Toneemee: Are you competeing with who has more bars with Guni? hahaha..

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just to recap, besides the front and rear sway bars, other bars are actually not worth spending into? i had just placed an order for 5 bars including front and rear sway, 4 point front strut, 3 point front lower and a room bar.... in that case i might cut back the order...

Not sure about room bar, but they do look like a nice foot rest for rear passenger.

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Doublezero: That's exactly my thoughts on the front and rear strut bars.

People i know say the rear strut does jack.. but i definately feel a difference, same with the front strut. Exactly as how you described.

Toneemee: Are you competeing with who has more bars with Guni? hahaha..

They need to keep it long enough, then take it off. Hello wobble.

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Toneemee: Are you competeing with who has more bars with Guni? hahaha..

not my original plan but that can be arranged... haha

however, guys it now costing around 250 per bar.... if i could cut back 3 bars but having similar improvement i would rather put those money to flare my side guards...

oh my mod...

tanabe suspension

exedy clutch

ces head-back

ces cai

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however, guys it now costing around 250 per bar.... if i could cut back 3 bars but having similar improvement i would rather put those money to flare my side guards...

Spend money on the rear sway bar. You won't regret it.

ces head-back

don't u mean catback ??? Don't think CES makes head or header back unless u specially asked for one. Even then, they need to have a sportivo to model the system after.....

Toneemee: Are you competeing with who has more bars with Guni? hahaha..

not my original plan but that can be arranged... haha

After having those bars with a bit of trail and error, I find that it is better to have a softer rear compare to the front rather than aim for an "even" setup for front and rear as I personally found it to be more controllable and predictable, ESPECIALLY in the wet. I prefer to enjoy the car in all conditions whenever I want wherever I want.

Having set it up just to cope well in the dry isn't enough for me as when mama nature hits, bye bye sportivo ......

Just my experience. :rolleyes:

I've since moved on from my previous setup and is looking to try another configuration ..... :spiteful:

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however, guys it now costing around 250 per bar.... if i could cut back 3 bars but having similar improvement i would rather put those money to flare my side guards...

Spend money on the rear sway bar. You won't regret it.

ces head-back

don't u mean catback ??? Don't think CES makes head or header back unless u specially asked for one. Even then, they need to have a sportivo to model the system after.....

Toneemee: Are you competeing with who has more bars with Guni? hahaha..

not my original plan but that can be arranged... haha

After having those bars with a bit of trail and error, I find that it is better to have a softer rear compare to the front rather than aim for an "even" setup for front and rear as I personally found it to be more controllable and predictable, ESPECIALLY in the wet. I prefer to enjoy the car in all conditions whenever I want wherever I want.

Having set it up just to cope well in the dry isn't enough for me as when mama nature hits, bye bye sportivo ......

Just my experience. :rolleyes:

I've since moved on from my previous setup and is looking to try another configuration ..... :spiteful:

CES provides servise on porting and coat the header and sell as a package with the catback, haha that's what i call head-back from ces.... hope it makes sense...

and regarding the weather, having a big trouble at the moment, i can bearly speed up even up to 2nd gear, it just drift everytime over 4000rpm... i really hope it's only my type's problem...

oh and the even setup, it is true as i've giving insructure that only change the sway rear bar, that's why instead of rear top, rear low bar i try go for the room bar to improve the the rear part.

guni, can i have a look at your mod? my next mod after flaring is pfc, but have no where to start...

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my next mod after flaring is pfc, but have no where to start...

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...showtopic=21533

;)

thanks man, but how much the whole thing is gonna cost? a friend of mine mention there is an alternative product proforms like pfc but make and tune in AU actually Melb, after dyno the whole thing cost about 2k.. but guarantee perfect fit petrol consumption and low end prower improvement, works like upgrading to 4.9 final drive.... that's why i want to search for more info before jumping into Jap product with design for runx zze121... (again, that's what i heard... have yet have the chance to actually see one....)

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my next mod after flaring is pfc, but have no where to start...

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...showtopic=21533

;)

thanks man, but how much the whole thing is gonna cost? a friend of mine mention there is an alternative product proforms like pfc but make and tune in AU actually Melb, after dyno the whole thing cost about 2k.. but guarantee perfect fit petrol consumption and low end prower improvement, works like upgrading to 4.9 final drive.... that's why i want to search for more info before jumping into Jap product with design for runx zze121... (again, that's what i heard... have yet have the chance to actually see one....)

PowerFC can be had new for about $1050 delivered at the moment. An ECU upgrade will never behave like a final drive change. The powerFC to buy is for the ZZT231 Celica, I just make the conversion harness so it works with the Australian ZZE123 (Sportivo). Don't know where you got the ZZE121 from.

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Thanks heaps guys

Ive just got my slim line plates so im starting small with my mods n ill go from there. The next best thing ill do is probably illuminated door sills.

Other than that ill try better tyres cause when i bought my rolla it had the original tyres up from but different ones on the rear called "Supercat"

Clearly this brand is so awesome that nobody will have heard of it. But i think the point about suspension brakes and tyres are the best mods for handling makes sense. So ill look up the tyre section to see what the best ones r.

Thanks again

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my next mod after flaring is pfc, but have no where to start...

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...showtopic=21533

;)

thanks man, but how much the whole thing is gonna cost? a friend of mine mention there is an alternative product proforms like pfc but make and tune in AU actually Melb, after dyno the whole thing cost about 2k.. but guarantee perfect fit petrol consumption and low end prower improvement, works like upgrading to 4.9 final drive.... that's why i want to search for more info before jumping into Jap product with design for runx zze121... (again, that's what i heard... have yet have the chance to actually see one....)

PowerFC can be had new for about $1050 delivered at the moment. An ECU upgrade will never behave like a final drive change. The powerFC to buy is for the ZZT231 Celica, I just make the conversion harness so it works with the Australian ZZE123 (Sportivo). Don't know where you got the ZZE121 from.

oh yar... but if that's the case, why i go ahead with final drive upgrade, c-one cost about 1500, +400 to install....

and where you rekcon i go buy a camber adjustable upper damper mount (front)...

thanks man, you sound very pro....

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oh yar... but if that's the case, why i go ahead with final drive upgrade, c-one cost about 1500, +400 to install....

and where you rekcon i go buy a camber adjustable upper damper mount (front)...

thanks man, you sound very pro....

Not sure if you are saying you have it installed already, but if you have $400 is a bargain!

As for camber adjustable strut tops K-Mac make some, as do C-One.

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