problems with stivo

[justin_es]

ok well ive been for rides in a few stivos now

both stoc and non stock

and i must say my stivo feels so much slower in everyway

my bottom end torque seems sluggy

even from day 1 since ive had the car my LIFT spike just seems so much softer than in every other stivo ive been in

now everyone told me to go 2 1/2 on the zorst so thats what i did, now my car feels slower likes it too big

1 difference most people went cat back,

ive gone 2 1/2 manifold back (maybe i need to go 2 1/4 pre cat then 2 1/2 after cat

but thats beside the point cus it still felt slow before hand

anyone have any ideas what maybe my problem could be

ive tried resetting the pc and it seemed to woek for a few days then after that back to its old self

:( :( :( :( please help me

as im falling strongly disharted against these cars because of it

they dont seem to be all there cracked up to be

or maybe its just mine ??????????

[justin_es]

also ill get a dyno reading up by this arvo so you can all see power output

size of my lift spike

air fuel ratios and whatever else you can make out of it cheers guys help or some answers would be much appreciated

[CHA54]

are you using ****ty fuel?

Using lower quality fuel will cause the ECU to pull timing out of the maps to protect the motor.

[justin_es]

im using this new stuff called BOOST

but only just i was using CAltex Vortex before that

[CHA54]

the way to check the motor properly is to hook up a scanner and go for a drive (or hook up a scanner while it's on the dyno).

That way you can see exactly what the ECU is doing through the rev range with regard to knock, timing advance, injector pulse, engine temp, etc etc. The hard part is finding someone who had an ODB2 scanner you can borrow

The sort I've borrowed before is one of these:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SNAP-ON-Scan-Tool-T...1QQcmdZViewItem

Edited October 7, 2005 by rollamods

[coladuna]

I would be really interested to see the dyno sheet.

Please post it up ASAP.

[Azza]

I agree with rollamods, try different fuel.

Mine felt real sluggish for ages after I got it, then I changed from Optimax to BP Ultimate and did an ECU reset and presto, feels better.

Give that a try. Mind you though, I did go through about 3 or 4 tanks before I noticed any difference.

I don't think the exhaust will slug the car out too much. It will certainly show problems on dyno readings etc, but unless you really went all out on milo tins and stuff, I'd be sceptical about how much sluggishness you'd feel from that.

But try the fuel....

[ZEEROLLA]

The size of our exhaust pre-cat, post-extractors is huge! Almost 3 inch i think and then into the cat, then 2.??inch piping. So maybe you reduced the diameter of the piping pre-cat has made your car feel like that? Check for exhaust leaks too if that's the only thing you have done since new. Also like others say, the fuel quality. Also when was your last service done?

Exhaust systems can make the car feel slower, i once had 2.5inch on a 1600cc motor and it drives like total sh*thouse! :P

[eddy_torrezz]

ok EVL

i felt the same way about mine recently was sluggish didnt seem to have to take off and lift spike like others id been.

anyway had a few issues to get fixed at toyota this week eg: clutch checked gear selector cables checked brakes checked (cause they didnt feel right but had plent of pad left).

anyway have no idea what they have done buts its like a new car it changes gears smoothly as (they just reset clutch) cables were fine. the bottom end picks up as soon as i put the foot into it.(like never before). and instead of going slow then hitting lift and feeling a little kick, it now flys upto lift and when ya hit it bang off she goes and when i change gears (at least first second third) i land in lift.SWEETAZ

anyway turned out there was a problem with my rear disks and even though the pads were fine they rear brakes were grabbing slightly which they reckon was enough to slow the car significantly. so they reset the disks and replaced with new pads.

also off the topic my CV joint was completely rooted. so they have just the the new drive shaft in and will replace this coming week.

anyway what im getting at is maybe you have a similar problem with the brakes and thats why ya stivo feels slow.

could be like the guys said though and could be fuel.

also maybe ya air filter needs replacing or is ya car due for a service.

mine also got seviced last week and my mechanic said the oil was blacker than black.

[MR22ZZ]

im using this new stuff called BOOST

but only just i was using CAltex Vortex before that

←

Justin.. was it Vortex or Vortex98???

[justin_es]

vortex 98 in reply to blue stivo

as for eddy torezz

its a possibilaty but my car has only done 7 thousand kms and i changed the oil already at 5000

but my clutch I PERSONALLY THINK feels stuffed

it doesnt slip but it feels like it takes ages for the car to actually take off from a stand still sorta like its slipping but i put it in high gears on hills with low revs and put fut down and it doesnt slip at all

so im not sure

in reply to azza

i have a ultra flow cat, 2 1/2 mandrel bend piping from manifold to tip and a ultra flow cannon(as you call it milo tin but i hide mine away as much as possible)

[eddy_torrezz]

yeah well i got my clutch and gear selector cables checked cause i wasnt sure what the issue was.

the clutch felt as if it wasnt getting fully compressed to slide into gear smoothly.

also it felt really soft as if it was just about worn out.

anyway maybe goto toyota and tell them to reset it all and check the selector cables cause your having issues ( dont mention that you think its underpowered) as they will say youve been thrashing it. but just tell them you think the clutch is playing up or feels like its worn. let em reset it all and see how you go.also just tell em that your brakes are making a squeeling noise when in reverse and let em reset up the disks.

motoman told me about somthing to do with the brakes and somthing to do with a recall for somthing when the brakes squeel in reverse anyway like i said i mentioned all this even though i didnt really have mutch of an issue with it. and its come back better than ever. if its under warranty it doesnt hurt cause it wont cost you a cent. cant hurt to try nothing lost but everything to gain.

[justin_es]

yeah definatly mate sounds like a top idea i will drop into toyota monday after work and talk to them

[black200]

i ran a tank of mobil synergy 8000 in my car (mobil's top stuff) and it made my car run like absolute dog**** compared to the Bp ultimate i use. The thing was struggling up hills and everything.

my advice to you is try some BP ultimate and if it hasnt improved by 3 or 4 tanks time check your plug gaps and o2 sensor. I realise your car is probably near new but its worth a try anyhow.

dyno sheets would help a great deal with diagnosing your problem....

[justin_es]

yeah i have a dyno sheet but i not certain how to post picks

i also gotta work out this damn scanner lol

[obsessionz]

Hey dude try resetting ecu .... u got TRD cai ?? if you dont have get it ... its a must have :P also after resetting ecu take it for a drive... and punch it... make sure u red line every gear :D weeeeeeeeeee

I recon you should of went 2 1/4 mandrel piping ... would of got better mid range power .... that way u would launch off the line quicker ... and better response ...

If still not moving after that ... take it back to toyota and say u sold me a lemon ... ;)

[influx]

could be a loss of back pressure from the muffler?? so you will only see the real engine response at higher revs? just a thought not sure though

[CheekySportivo]

I know there has been a poll on this for the best fuel type but do you rekon BP Ultimate provides a major difference compared to Optimax?

[SILVABULLIT]

Ultimate does make a big difference to the way my car performs over optimax.

As for the piping size pre cat; it's about 3" in diameter BUT it's also a double walled pipe for noise and heat reduction. Inside this pipe form the header down to the cat is also a divider which carries the spent gases from 2 cylinders each. The 2 separate chambers finish about 5-6inches(from memory) the front of the cat where the gases from all 4 cylinders are now in the one pipe. Going too big from this point to the cat may result in a loss of low end torque but going too small will kill the top end a little too. Not exactly sure of the standard diameter of the pipe at this point but changing it can make a noticable difference.

Also check that your air filter is clean and that you air flow meter is clean too. depending on how many K's you've done you could also try some throttle body/injector cleaner just in case the tips of the injectors have gummed up.

Hope this all helps :D

[negatron]

I know there has been a poll on this for the best fuel type but do you rekon BP Ultimate provides a major difference compared to Optimax? 

←

Yeah man, i went from optimax to running on Ultimate for a month then just changed to a tank of mobile 8000, can't wait to go back on ultimate, anything else makes the car feel like a pig

[justin_es]

post bellow is exactly the same some reason it put it down twice lol

anyways just ignore this one

cheers

Edited October 11, 2005 by evl_50a

[justin_es]

yeah maybe my cat is too big i think that is 2 1/2 aswell

i was going for a 2 1/4 cat then 2 1/2 cat back but for some reason he put 2 1/2 on so i might go see my zorst mech and see what he says

as for resetting the ECU ive already done that and it felt good for a week or 2 now it just feels slow and feels like it keeps getting slower

[mick0082]

As stated guys his car felt sluggish before the exhaust mod.

Besides fuel choices could it possibly be the run in method used?

How did you run the car in?

I don't know how mine performs compared to other cars on here but I think mine goes ok.

I realise run in methods have been covered in previous topics but it can sometimes explain 'performance variances' in supposedly identical engines.

I drove mine in very varied ways for the first 1500km - very easy driving with short hard bursts into lift, allowing the engine to heat up and cool down.

After 1500km I hit it up hard whenever I feel the need (or whenever some clown in an EVO copy pulls up beside me). Dont get me wrong im not constantly flogging it, but the tacho needle gets to venture to the other side of 6,000rpm on regular occaisions.

Anyways, if you've been babying it, dont go so easy on it. Loosen it up a little!

If you've already been giving it a serve, disregard my rambling :D

[justin_es]

well i ws the same i babied it for about 1000km but with the OCCASIONAL lift hit well i guess cus i couldnt help myself

then after that i hit lift alot more often but not everyday i do look after my cars (well i like to think so anyways lol)

but your right it didnt feel that great even before the exhaust went on so im still stuck

[eddy_torrezz]

i hit lift 5 times on the way home from the dealers.lol

then took it easy hitting lift only once a day till 1500 then hit lift everytime for about 2 days then just in sputs till over 2000.

mine runs sweet

but like i said ive had power issues here and there and it came to warranty things once toyota fixed them there was no problems