Zr6 supercharged

Zr6 trd aurion DYNO

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3 hours ago, LordBug said:

Oooof, that's one sexy unit!
Is there a noticeable whine when you give it the foot?

Yeh kind of but because i have exhaust cant tell that much

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7 hours ago, Trd aurion #617 said:

good work Adam looks awesome, does the charger still hit the bonnet, that’s been my biggest concern, can u post a pic of the area I cut,

When i get the chance i will post a pic but i dont think its hitting the bonnet at all now it just clears it prob a few mm. When i first tried to close the bonnet it wouldnt close then i took that liner off and it closed but just and you could feel alot of vibration and noise .. So i had to actually cut off the bars going across the bonnet where it was hitting the supercharger then cut the liner as close as i could put it back on to reduce noise and it seems to just clear it so all is good atm.

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Cool maybe put some shims in between the hinge and bonnet, if there are still issues, is it worth relocating the batery to the boot and running more duct from the fog light to push more clean air in

Edited by Trd aurion #617

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3 hours ago, Trd aurion #617 said:

Cool maybe put some shims in between the hinge and bonnet, if there are still issues, is it worth relocating the batery to the boot and running more duct from the fog light to push more clean air in

Yeh ita possible to do that it could eliminate having to flip the throttle. But tbh not most times ive found that with the lomg i take you loose abit of low end power but could be different on the car if it has the bigger tvs 1900.

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3 hours ago, Trd aurion #617 said:

With the 1900 Once the heat soak sets in does it feel like The 1320 pre heat soak

Im not sure what you mean by heat soak and pre heat soak? thats the 1st time ive heard those terms.

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Its very impressive, you are definitely doing well. 

I think you could document more of this on a youtube channel, if possible. 

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17 hours ago, Zr6 supercharged said:

Im not sure what you mean by heat soak and pre heat soak? thats the 1st time ive heard those terms.

For forced-induction cars (especially ones without intercoolers), the intake piping etc will absorb heat ("soak") as the car gets warm which then impacts the effectiveness of the turbo/supercharger (warm air is less dense), reducing power.

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Sorry for the late response, Yeah and it also applies to oil, coolant, basically every component of the engine, even the transmission, not sure if it’s correct I seen it on a Honda forum, for every 10degrees farinhieght increase in air temp you loose 1 hp, I toyed with the idea of running bonnet scoops to cool the charger, but it’s the friction caused from the rotating assembly of the supercharger that can’t be avoided, that’s why I want the tvs 1900 to give better  output once soaked, this is  why the ignition timing is retarding to avoid detonation, I’m toying with a water/methonal injection set up vs e85 it also lowers the temp of the intake charge, it works wonders on turbos just need to research a little more to see if it possible 

 


 

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CAN I SPRAY WATER METHANOL INJECTION THROUGH MY EATON SUPERCHARGER?

Posted by Rachel Farabaugh on October 23, 2015

Every week and almost daily were asked this or similar questions by customers. It's a reasonable and understandable concern for those who are running an Eaton supercharger or any of the other positive displacement superchargers such as the Kenne Bell, Magnacharger, Whipple, Edelbrock etc. as the water methanol injection will be sprayed directly into the inlet of the supercharger and through its rotors. Read below as we answer the many questions asked regarding spraying water methanol injection through positive displacement superchargers. 

Is it safe to spray water methanol injection through my supercharger?

Yes, its safe to spray water methanol injection through your supercharger. We have set up hundreds of systems for customers over the years who are doing just this. Furthermore, you can find countless others on the internet who are doing the same with competitors systems. 

Spraying through the supercharger is extremely effective way of cooling off the supercharger and its rotors and housing. So much that if you are familiar with how hot your supercharger is after shutting of the car just after normal driving. If you ever get the opportunity to watch your car dynoed in person. After they finish a pull. Walk over and cautiously place your hand on the supercharger. It will feel warm to the touch and sometimes almost cool. Where as without the water methanol injection, you wouldn't be able to touch it! 

I have found this to be a quick and easy way to tell if the water methanol injection has fired off during a run on the dyno before waiting for the data to display on the dyno's computer showing air temps. Try it out for yourself and you'll be surprised how cool your supercharger feels with water methanol injection. 

Will it hurt the bearings on my supercharger

No, the water methanol injection will not hurt your bearings. We have customers who have been running water methanol injection through their positive displacement superchargers, on daily drivers, for years without any issues. 

While we can not see inside the supercharger while the methanol is spraying. We can tell from looking at other information and signs. It appears the majority or entirety of the water methanol injection is flashing off instantly once it comes in contact with the hot rotor pack and housing. The water methanol injection is short lived and evaporates to quickly to make its way back and into the bearings. 

Will it pit or corrode my supercharger?

No, spraying water methanol injection will not pit or corrode your supercharger. While it's a reasonable and understandable question since the supercharger rotors and housing are made of aluminum. The methanol is too shorted lived and evaporates immediately before it is allowed time to effect the aluminum surfaces.  Unlike if you store methanol in a aluminum container where over a period of days and weeks it will eventually corrode and pit the aluminum. 

Will it effect the coating on my supercharger? 

Yes, for many of the superchargers, those which are not anodized, over time it will remove the thin coating on the rotors. If you were to ever remove the rotor pack after having ran the water methanol injection for a period of time. They will almost look like they have been polished. While the water methanol injection will remove this coating. It has not proven detrimental or effected the performance of the supercharger. This coating is designed to wear and will eventually deteriorate over time regardless if water methanol injection is used. 

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Wow this is freaky i was just looking this up last night and bang now i its been brought up here. I definetly want to go down this path if it avoids having to put a intercooler in apparently ssc has a charge cooled kit but requires another radiator and stuff to be installed then im sure there will be more clearance issues. Do you know if this methanol injection kit will give the same/ or better results as compared to an intercooler ? Whats the coparrison between the 2 ? I spoke to the guy at ssc and he said they can custom make an intsrcooler that sits between tbe blower and manifold but will raise the blower 50mm or even more so the hood will have to be modifed. I think this is again different from their charge cool kit again. Woould be great to gst the same results for the injection kit. I read also that we should only use water not methanol and that will be sufficient to cool the intake alot if doing methanol it requires more work because it is a fuel not just water is that correct? Can you post up a link if you have found the right kit that will work with the aurion i want to jump onto it straight away. Before getting it tuned.

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Cheers for the pics Adam, Aussie speed shop stock a brand called devilsown, this kit appears to offer all the safety required, definitely go 1/1 water methanol mix, not sure how to size the kit devils own have calculators on there website, they claim 10-15% increase, so that’s good considering timing is not retarded, so u get more power than u have as well as being consistent and not detune, $690 + fuel tank, in conclusion I reckon it will be better than an intercooler as it cools the charger as well as the air so on hot days it should be more efficient, cause there are still the limitations of heat soak on the intercooler were as this should be more consistent 

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Looking at the bonnet maybe fold up some flat bar in the shape of the cut out, and fix it in to improve stiffness of the bonnet

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20 minutes ago, Trd aurion #617 said:

Cheers for the pics Adam, Aussie speed shop stock a brand called devilsown, this kit appears to offer all the safety required, definitely go 1/1 water methanol mix, not sure how to size the kit devils own have calculators on there website, they claim 10-15% increase, so that’s good considering timing is not retarded, so u get more power than u have as well as being consistent and not detune, $690 + fuel tank, in conclusion I reckon it will be better than an intercooler as it cools the charger as well as the air so on hot days it should be more efficient, cause there are still the limitations of heat soak on the intercooler were as this should be more consistent 

Have you considered the aem brand or snow performance brand on ebay the have different stage kits not sure which is best. I get the idea of how it works spraying water into the intake is that correct? where would the nozzle go that actually sprays the stuff do you drill a hole in the intake pipe ? If so before or after the maf sensor? And i dont understand what that bottle is for and how it works with that bottle do u fill it up half water half methanol and where do u even get methnol from? Sorry for the silly questions but i just like to know exaxtly how it works so then i can install it myself 

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Yeah I’m looking into snow performance, the sprayer is set after the maf, the water methanol mix can be sprayed directly into the charger or u can install nozzles into each intake runner(a lot more work)I’m not sure about mixing the brew, there’s some already mixed called boostjuice, not sure we’re to buy from locally, there are plenty of mobs that sell straight methanol, probably best to get braided line screw fittings as apposed to the push pull type with plastic pipes, the bottle is for mounting in the engine bay, or u can get larger fuel cells that go in the boot, there’s just more control over the different stage kits which is handy, all kits offer different size nozzles/squirters, it’s all about nozzle size and pump pressure to ensure a fine mist of the mix, 

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4 hours ago, Trd aurion #617 said:

Yeah I’m looking into snow performance, the sprayer is set after the maf, the water methanol mix can be sprayed directly into the charger or u can install nozzles into each intake runner(a lot more work)I’m not sure about mixing the brew, there’s some already mixed called boostjuice, not sure we’re to buy from locally, there are plenty of mobs that sell straight methanol, probably best to get braided line screw fittings as apposed to the push pull type with plastic pipes, the bottle is for mounting in the engine bay, or u can get larger fuel cells that go in the boot, there’s just more control over the different stage kits which is handy, all kits offer different size nozzles/squirters, it’s all about nozzle size and pump pressure to ensure a fine mist of the mix, 

How would you hook it up directly to the s/c ? What do you mean by both intake runners ? Wouldnt you just hook it up to the intake pipe like drill a small hole and attatch the nozzle then it sprays the stuff into to intake before going into the s/c? Also that small 1 gallon bottle do you put the liquid in that so what happnens when it runs out do you have to keep filling it up that would be annoying how long is one bottle going to last.

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Any idea as the which kit to get for the meth injection ? I have done alot of reading and my head is hurting i have decided to go with the aem set up but not sure which kit exactly and whats the difference between maf / map sensor delivery or boost pressure delivery which is the correct one to go for any ideas?

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Hi maybe you could ask Harrop for some advice directly.

Try Matt, he has answered a few of my questions in the past.

Matthew Howarth |  Performance Centre Advisor

Harrop Performance Products

96 Bell Street, Preston, Melbourne, Victoria, 3072, Australia

t: +61 3  9474 0900 f: +61 3 9474 0999

e: matthew.howarth@harrop.com.au| w: www.harrop.com.au

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just spoke to Harrop, they say pre charger injection has been done, but they don’t recommend it as it washes the grease out of the needle roller bearings, and breaks down the coating on the rotars, I’m going to go post charger, was thinking about placing a nozzle on the front of the intake manifold to hit the air as it leaves the charger.

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On 10/19/2018 at 10:06 AM, Trd aurion #617 said:

just spoke to Harrop, they say pre charger injection has been done, but they don’t recommend it as it washes the grease out of the needle roller bearings, and breaks down the coating on the rotars, I’m going to go post charger, was thinking about placing a nozzle on the front of the intake manifold to hit the air as it leaves the charger.

Oh wow i did alot of reading and was ordering the kit but everything i read and the people i have spoken to seem to all be saying its fine to go pre charger in the intake that way it cools the supercharger its self. Also herd that it will take the coating off the rotors but apparently it doesnt affect the supercharger in anyway and its designed for roots style blowers. Now this just confused me. Putting it in the manifold will require removing the s/c again which is a big job hmm not sure what to do now.

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Should be fine only reason I was thinking of post charger is if I’ve got the manifold off might as well do maybe a dual stage pre post charger. I can’t get anyone to hack ecu in Melbourne can your mob in Sydney do it, sorry for late response been flat out lately. 

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