Zr6 supercharged

Zr6 trd aurion DYNO

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Harrop released this kit not sure on the cost, the power is very impressive, I’m waiting on response, they are going to check there cad drawings to see if it fits the Trd aurion(with a bonnet modification) and if all goes well hopefully they can redo the ecu to suit since they did the first development with the original package

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That looks so cool.

So is that an air to air intercooler? 

It would be interesting to see how much it costs? 

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Even better water to air, it comes with a tune for the lotus, just waiting to hear back to see if they can reflash the stock Trd aurion ecu, they did it first so they may have access, this alone saves 3-5 grand + dyno for after market ecu,

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Woww where the hell have i been cant beleave this i knew this would happen because i called up harrop a few months ago and the guy there told me they are coming up with a kit for the 2gr similar to the ssc one. When i got my tvs 1900 ssc had the chargered water to air cooler but it wouldnt fit in the engine bay but i wonder if harrop could tune the system. Have they said anything about the kit fitting for the aurion? 

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On 11/7/2018 at 8:52 PM, Trd aurion #617 said:

39A2A727-07D0-4049-92D9-0DA00A9C9A4F.png

I had a feeling this would be the case. Thats what the guys at ssc told me when i was picking up the 1900 i saw the one with the intercooler being installed and ask oh whats that can i get that instead and was told it wouldnt fit and requires an extra radiator at the front and would be alot of custom work to get if all to fit which would be way too costly. I think the best way is the tvs1900 with a water methanol kit it will act like an intercooler reducing the intake temps by a fair bit easiest option to go for.

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I’m still in the r&d of it all, heat exchanger and pump shouldn’t be to difficult, having to go piggyback or standalone ecu is a shame, but at least it’s a download for the tune, so there’s a couple of bucks saved on the dyno, clearance is my biggest issue, I’m gonna make a template up to see if the bonnet needs a hole with scoop, I’ll get some playdoe close the bonnet and measure the clearances, hopefully it will fit, 

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On 11/7/2018 at 8:52 PM, Trd aurion #617 said:
13 hours ago, Trd aurion #617 said:

I’m still in the r&d of it all, heat exchanger and pump shouldn’t be to difficult, having to go piggyback or standalone ecu is a shame, but at least it’s a download for the tune, so there’s a couple of bucks saved on the dyno, clearance is my biggest issue, I’m gonna make a template up to see if the bonnet needs a hole with scoop, I’ll get some playdoe close the bonnet and measure the clearances, hopefully it will fit, 

So how would thee heat exchanger fit i nto it all ? And whats the difference with the 12k one compared  with the 9k one?

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One kit is for the already intercooler lotus as an upgrade, the other is a non intercooler 1320 upgrade, still looking into heat exchanger, there’s still a fair bit of room in front of the radiator, need to get the dimensions for the min requirement of the unit to perform its task, the kit uses the stock na lower intake manifold, so I need to find out the height difference between the two ani folds are 

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Has my car booked in for the tune and water methanol kit to be installed next week and been having issues with the car found out i had low compression on 2 of the front cylinders. Did a leak down test on the 2 cylinders both seem to have air rushing through the dipstick and the oil cap suspect damaged piston rings so motor has to come out not sure what to do either build the internals or just get a new engine and not push it too much. Way too much money spent on this this has set me back big time😭

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13 hours ago, Zr6 supercharged said:

motor has to come out not sure what to do either build the internals or just get a new engine and not push it too much.

Don't know enough about rebuilding engines to offer real world advice. Just noticed internet posts about forged pistons and connecting rods for the 2GR-FE so maybe an opportunity to also

upgrade the head bolts and possibly the valve springs. I am more thinking about reliability/prevention than increased HP.

13 hours ago, Zr6 supercharged said:

not push it too much

Best to analyse the cause for the low compression. Maybe too much before the engine is at optimal operating temperature. Learnt the hard way [too many years ago] not to over rev a cold engine then having to replace the piston rings a week later for a brief ego moment.

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4 hours ago, campbeam said:

Don't know enough about rebuilding engines to offer real world advice. Just noticed internet posts about forged pistons and connecting rods for the 2GR-FE so maybe an opportunity to also

upgrade the head bolts and possibly the valve springs. I am more thinking about reliability/prevention than increased HP.

Best to analyse the cause for the low compression. Maybe too much before the engine is at optimal operating temperature. Learnt the hard way [too many years ago] not to over rev a cold engine then having to replace the piston rings a week later for a brief ego moment.

Factory 2gr has many forged internals. Forged camshaft and forged con rods. Piston is not forged.

http://m.australiancar.reviews/2GR-FE-engine.php

I still don't understand why your engine fails. You have around 210kw at the wheel. It is not too much. (A N/A build can make 200kw at the wheel at 6500rpm)

Are you running your engine too lean? What is your af ratio?

 

Taking the engine off cost around 2800 dollars. Plus you need to buy an engine from wreckers. You might also consider buying a short block from mwr and ship to Australia.

The hard thing for Rebuilding engine is to find a person who knows this engine. It is hard to guarantee the workmanship quality

There is a MR2 in Sydney running 2gr N/a and spin to 8000rpm. You might start contacting him for the person who knows this engine

I also know that there may be a quick way of fixing this without taking the engine off. I will do some research

Edited by ben yip

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Rebuild your current engine with the forged pistons, leave everything else. 

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On 12/3/2018 at 5:55 PM, ben yip said:

Factory 2gr has many forged internals. Forged camshaft and forged con rods. Piston is not forged.

http://m.australiancar.reviews/2GR-FE-engine.php

I still don't understand why your engine fails. You have around 210kw at the wheel. It is not too much. (A N/A build can make 200kw at the wheel at 6500rpm)

Are you running your engine too lean? What is your af ratio?

 

Taking the engine off cost around 2800 dollars. Plus you need to buy an engine from wreckers. You might also consider buying a short block from mwr and ship to Australia.

The hard thing for Rebuilding engine is to find a person who knows this engine. It is hard to guarantee the workmanship quality

There is a MR2 in Sydney running 2gr N/a and spin to 8000rpm. You might start contacting him for the person who knows this engine

I also know that there may be a quick way of fixing this without taking the engine off. I will do some research

Im not sure of my a/f ratio but the last dyno i did came up as it was running fairly rich and the tuner said its fueling is good. The 210kw was before i put the tvs 1900 on it with the 80mm pulley stock pulley is 90mm i put on an 80mm pulley with a new 1900blower so not sure exactly but would of been making a fair bit more than 210kw and also wasnt tuned yet so maybe the a/f ratio stuffed up on me. I know someone who can rebuild it i dont think they need to really know specifics for the tge 2gr to be able to rebuikd the bottom end just like any car i think.

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Any news on how i could fix this problem without removing the engine ? Ive tried researching i cant really find anything its either just get a new motor from.wrexkwrs i saw one today with 100k kms fully runing or get the forged pistons. Ssc told me that if i was to do the build main thing is just pistons and rods but if i could just do pistons and the rods are already forged they should be able to handle good power ? And if i can save on the rods maybe i might opt for the rebuild coz thats about 1300 savings right there. Ssc also said 1st things that tends to go are rods and pistons do them and  youl be fine but now if the rods are already forged i dont see why i would need to change them unless they are a lower grade forged. Is that possible? 

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Have you found out what went wrong with compression? Any engine oil consumption?

Sorry, for piston change , I cannot find any quick way. I can only find quick way to fix oil leak in valve seal.

Is your problem happen all in a sudden or over time? What rpm does it happen?

 

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1 hour ago, ben yip said:

Have you found out what went wrong with compression? Any engine oil consumption?

Sorry, for piston change , I cannot find any quick way. I can only find quick way to fix oil leak in valve seal.

Is your problem happen all in a sudden or over time? What rpm does it happen?

 

Well according to the leak down test the amount of air coming out of the dipstick and oil cap suggests that the piston rings may be cracked or pistons damaged no other air came out from anywhere else so valves arent leaking and head gasket seems ok no bubles in oil radiator tbh no signs of oil consumptioon which is weird. Its mostly at idle the car just feels shaky the vacum on the gauge keeps dropping and coming back up. 

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I really need to know to what hp rating the stock connecting rods are good for i started reading other threads on lotus and stuff and some said they are forged and some say best to change them out if i have to change them out i probably wont go ahead with the build ill just buy a 2nd hand motor does anyone know how strong they are? with just getting the forged pistons and recondition the engine will i be able to run 420-450hp without worriying that the rods will bend or snap or get damaged.

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On 12/3/2018 at 6:38 PM, TRDnz13 said:

Rebuild your current engine with the forged pistons, leave everything else. 

Do you know much about the strength of the conrods ?

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