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Posted

So I've been using this removal tool by  Kincrome since purchasing my Aurion and slowly over time it's been getting harder and harder to remove the filter housing with this almost impossible tool.

My recent oil change was the last straw. After draining the oil, I then proceeded to remove the housing the usual way, locate the tool on the housing, attach socket to breaker bar and attempt to loosen.

Only this time the hex part on the tool began to round off due to the torque required to loosen this damn housing off. The socket kept slipping and I use quality sockets !

I tried several time to no avail and this left me 1 of 2 choices. Do I put the old oil back in and wait to get another tool or just fill it with fresh oil and do another change later.

I chose the latter. Much to my frustration I added the 6 lt of 5w-30 Fully synthetic, gritting my teeth knowing the old filter is still in. ARRGHH !!

I contacted kincrome to voice my disappointment in what was supposed to be a premium tool. It wasn't cheap either.

They have since responded and that it will be covered under their lifetime warranty, so I'll take it down to an authorised seller (no receipt required) and they will assess and process the warranty claim.

The bad part of this tool is that it only has a provision for a hex socket as it has no 3/8" or even a 1/2" socket cut into the centre as a plan B. The cheaper knock offs on ebay even have this.

So it's a poorly conceived idea.

Let this be a lesson. You can sometimes never get what you pay for, even if it's made by a reputable company. The expensive stuff can sometimes be worse than the cheaper options.

I have since ordered 2 exact type of tool off ebay to be able to do a comparison and see for myself.

I'll let you know the outcome.

By the way, out of interest. Is there a tightening torque spec for the housing. I don't think I over tightened it either as it has an O-ring. I tighten it up until it stops then nip it up a little. That's it.

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  • Like 1
Posted

I have looked at this type of tool a few times but stayed with using a 3/8" drive directly to the bottom of the housing.

When refitting the housing, I lubricate the o-ring and then tighten by hand. Sometimes it takes a few attempts so threads match and it spins up quite freely.

I then tighten it by hand all the way then back it off a 1/4 turn. Afterwards wipe down the housing in case you want to check there is no oil leakage later.

  • Like 1
Posted

TY Tony for the info..I have talked to my mechanic in the past about that tool as i also have read out it..he said that he refused to use it as he prefers to do it the way Ashley said by hand with a 3/8" drive..mainly because he finds it is better to feel the unit is fixed properly and know that it is never over tightened..something to think about..as nothing worse than paying good money and getting something that turns out to be garbage..Please keep us updated as to what you discover with you purchases..at least they have backed their product with the warranty

KAA

Posted (edited)

My main decision to buy this was to enable the removal of the housing, not necessarily to install it with.  The 3/8" bit you're talking about Ash is the drain plug for the housing and 10 times out of 10 it will simply unscrew itself and not the housing. The tool is supposed to make your life easier. I nearly popped a vein in my head trying to loosen the damn thing off with that stupid kincrome rubbish thing.

I have just received another removal tool from ebay, one that has the 3/8" socket cut into it unlike that other thing. Hopefully it will provide the purchase it requires to get it off.

So hand tightening of the housing will suffice hey ?

Maybe I over tightened I don't know for sure. Maybe I wound it up by hand then nipped up with the tool a bit too much. But still , the tool WAS designed to remove the filter housing no ?

I'll have another crack at it soon and get back to you guys.  

Buy the way, The cheaper one on the left has a 26mm hex AND the 3/8" socket.. Up there for thinking I reckon !!

The other cruddy one is 22mm and no 3/8" socket. Down there for dancin'...

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Edited by Tony Prodigy

Posted

Interesting that I just bought a twist socket set on eBay today after watching some YouTube videos about removing lugnuts.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/11Pcs-Damaged-Nut-Lock-Remover-Twist-Socket-Set-Screw-Extractor-Tool-16-27mm/163841096946

12 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I tighten it up until it stops then nip it up a little.

Let you re-think that approach. Even just tightening the housing up until it stops will be more than sufficient then you have the metal expansion when the engine block and oil warm up to operating temperature.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Thanks Ashley think i will invest in the same set..looks a handy item to add to the tool cabinet, 

Cheers for the info mate, keep Well Keep Safe

KAA

Posted
On 3/19/2020 at 5:53 PM, Tony Prodigy said:

So hand tightening of the housing will suffice hey ?

Yes, it will! Been tightening by hand the filter housings on my both Aurions for quite a few years now, did perhaps 8-10 oil changes and NEVER had any oil leaking past the o-ring! When it stops, it stops and that is it, done! Oh and I'm not a strong person, but I'm always making sure I'm positioned in such a way under the car so that I can apply just enough force without hurting my wrist or my dodgy back.

For housing removal I'm using Ryco RST206, looks like the one to the left in your photos.

Posted

Thank you Adrian. Looks like hand tightening from now on. Kinda like the old school filters I used to do.

That Ryco item looks better made than the KIncrome. At least the were smart enough to put the 3/8" socket in the centre..

Take note Kincrome !!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

The housing should never be difficult to remove. I have a $20 cap wrench from ebay that fits on the end of a 3/8 ratchet, does the job every time without issue. Definitely should not require the use of a breaker bar to get loose. Tighten the housing until its snug. Thats all you need. 
 

Posted

Looks like my own stupid fault tightening it the way I did. Definitely will hand tightened from now on. That's what the O-ring is for.. (note to self)

I don't know what made me think to tighten it with the tool. AARRGHH !

Thanks for the correction people.

 

 

Posted

I've had another epic fail guys.. 

I purchased another two of those aluminium housing removal tools as I mentioned a while back and they didn't even last 10 seconds. 

Looks like I have to get the heavy artillery on this sucker ! I've got no choice now but to buy the more expensive Steel Version.

Made in China metal is all garbage, straight to the recyclers these crappy items will go. Hopefully they'll serve a more useful purpose in their next life. At least the kincrome one didn't snap the lugs. I bet if it had the 3/8 socket cut into it, it just may have done the job, unlike the biscuit metal China uses. 

Back to the drawing board ...😒

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Posted

I'm not sure if there's enough rotational clearance for the shifter spanner Ash. Have you checked ?

I am also canvassing a new removal tool as we speak. There's a group here in Australia that manufacture high quality and supposedly unbreakable ones from solid billet unlike the rubbish cast ones from China.

I think I might try this as I will need a removal tool going forward and one that doesn't damage my housing either. I don't want to replace the housing trying to get it off.

I appreciate your efforts mate.

Posted

That thing must be on there seriously tight!!

 

If you have an impact gun... That would probably break it loose pretty easily. With the cap wrench on the end. Or a really long breaker bar. 

 

Someone way over torqued my drain plug at some point and fixed it with a helicoil. And it all came out in pieces when I went to put the plug back in. So, I replaced the entire sump pan. Wasn't fun.... 

 

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I'm not sure if there's enough rotational clearance for the shifter spanner Ash. Have you checked ?

I have just put the car up on ramps and used a cloth strap wrench to loosen the oil filter housing. Not a valid test for your situation because my housing came undone just using hands. Checked the filter cartridge for sludge particles then refitted.

There is lots of rotational clearance especially if you remove the plastic under engine cover. 

I also have used this tool on the spin on filters e.g Z386 The small size does fit onto the bottom of the housing. A larger size in combination with the removal tools will reduce the risk of damaging the housing. 

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-oil-filter-wrench-cam-action-small/13035.html

Posted
1 hour ago, nzzr6 said:

That thing must be on there seriously tight!!

 

 

 

 

Damn straight !! 😁😁

I must've had too much wheat bix that day lol...

 

Posted
Just now, campbeam said:

I have just put the car up on ramps and used a cloth strap wrench to loosen the oil filter housing. Not a valid test for your situation because my housing came undone just using hands. Checked the filter cartridge for sludge particles then refitted.

There is lots of rotational clearance especially if you remove the plastic under engine cover. 

I also have used this tool on the spin on filters e.g Z386 The small size does fit onto the bottom of the housing. A larger size in combination with the removal tools will reduce the risk of damaging the housing. 

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-oil-filter-wrench-cam-action-small/13035.html

I've just ordered this:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OMIK-Steel-Professional-Oil-Filter-Tool-for-Toyota-Aurion-Rav4-Corolla/303231702791?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

The seller claims it will get it off despite my stupidly over tightening it.

That cam action device is also handy to have. I have to go to Supercheap tomorrow to get other things and I might pick one up too.

Ash. So when your doing the filter only scenario, how much engine oil are you losing ? I had a look this morning and it looks like the top of the housing is almost level with the top of the oil pan. So would you lose much if any oil doing this cos I would like to replace my filter seeing I couldn't when I recently did my oil service without having to drain.

Posted
4 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

when your doing the filter only scenario, how much engine oil are you losing ?

I estimate about 500ml.

Oil was in good condition [only a few months old] so I reused it.

After filling up the housing with the cartridge in position, there was about 100ml left in the drain pan so it went back into the engine. 

  • Like 1
Posted

That's good to know. Thanks for that info Ash.

When my new Professional tool arrives I'll give it the old heave ho and swap out my filter too.

Cheers mate 👍

Posted

Here's my little boy this morning who thought he'd try and get the filter housing off for me lol..

He wanted to help his Dad.

Bless his heart. He's only 7.

 

 

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  • Like 1
Posted
On 4/4/2020 at 3:10 PM, Tony Prodigy said:

Here's my little boy this morning who thought he'd try and get the filter housing off for me lol..

He wanted to help his Dad.

Bless his heart. He's only 7.

Reminds me of being under the Holden watching my Dad greasing the ball joints. Also had a laugh noticing that long breaker bar in his hands. Explains how Dad was so easily able to get in this current dilemma. Hopefully you showed which direction to undo when you are working upside down under the car. I am always using a ratchet driver to verify that I will be loosening, not tightening.

Pays to have a backup plan so just in case you have cross-threaded the housing, nice to know there are replacements readily available.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ryco-Oil-Filter-Cap-RFA202-fits-Toyota-Aurion-3-5-GSV40R-3-5-GSV50R-3-5/153824905169?hash=item23d0adc7d1:g:s9IAAOSwtN9ePb0o

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Ahh TY Tony for the smiles..what a little helper..these days of madness and isolation good to see he takes after his Dad and has an interest you can both do together

Stay Safe My Friend

KAA

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
17 hours ago, campbeam said:

Reminds me of being under the Holden watching my Dad greasing the ball joints. Also had a laugh noticing that long breaker bar in his hands. Explains how Dad was so easily able to get in this current dilemma. Hopefully you showed which direction to undo when you are working upside down under the car. I am always using a ratchet driver to verify that I will be loosening, not tightening.

Pays to have a backup plan so just in case you have cross-threaded the housing, nice to know there are replacements readily available.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ryco-Oil-Filter-Cap-RFA202-fits-Toyota-Aurion-3-5-GSV40R-3-5-GSV50R-3-5/153824905169?hash=item23d0adc7d1:g:s9IAAOSwtN9ePb0o

 

Good memories ash yes ! I remember the old girls that needed their ball joints steering bits greased. Funny how times have changed.

The breaker bar was only for removal, I promise 😊 I remember tightening it with just the 3/8 ratchet. Stupid me not realising it was ONLY supposed to be hand tight. I can be sure it's not cross threaded as I recall it spinning on nice and smoothly. I think the co**** thread makes it idiot proof 😁

Anyways, I am going to buy another housing to keep as a spare incase I have to go medieval on this one...Thanks for the tip.

 

***UPDATE*** Have just placed an order with Toyota for a Genuine Housing. Cheaper than the Ryco and free delivery. Can't get better than that I reckon.

Edited by Tony Prodigy
UPDATED
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, KAA said:

Ahh TY Tony for the smiles..what a little helper..these days of madness and isolation good to see he takes after his Dad and has an interest you can both do together

Stay Safe My Friend

KAA

Thanks for the kind words,

He's a good boy (sometimes lol) and is always excited when I have stuff to do outside. Always eager to pitch in and help, even if it's for 5 minutes before he runs off to investigate other distractions in our backyard. (Remember those too ?) Luckily we have a good sized backyard full of stimulus.

Edited by Tony Prodigy
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