Avalon Re-Born ?

[campbeam]

9 hours ago, TommyM said:

i'm simply tossing up options as to what is going to suit best based on how well it's kept after 234k on 5w30, etc

After reading the following URLs, you are on the right track with a full synthetic 5W30 engine oil. Given that the engine oil capacity is only 4.7 litres [2GR-FE has 6.1 litres], I can now see why you are focused upon the TBN.

Apparently 1MZ-FE engine lifespan is 300K so best to stick with the proven results of using 5W30 and an oil change interval of 7500kms [assuming a fair bit of highway driving].

If you are tossing up options then consider reducing the oil change interval. 5000km is old school but oil is cheaper than having to replace an engine.

I do a lot of short distance driving e.g. 15km trips so I have a very reduced oil change interval, about every 2-3 months.

http://www.tcamanual.com/lubrication_system_1mz_8722_fe_3mz_8722_fe_-750.html

http://mywikimotors.com/toyota-1mz/

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2453536/1

[TommyM]

8 hours ago, campbeam said:

After reading the following URLs, you are on the right track with a full synthetic 5W30 engine oil. Given that the engine oil capacity is only 4.7 litres [2GR-FE has 6.1 litres], I can now see why you are focused upon the TBN.

Apparently 1MZ-FE engine lifespan is 300K so best to stick with the proven results of using 5W30 and an oil change interval of 7500kms [assuming a fair bit of highway driving].

If you are tossing up options then consider reducing the oil change interval. 5000km is old school but oil is cheaper than having to replace an engine.

I do a lot of short distance driving e.g. 15km trips so I have a very reduced oil change interval, about every 2-3 months.

http://www.tcamanual.com/lubrication_system_1mz_8722_fe_3mz_8722_fe_-750.html

http://mywikimotors.com/toyota-1mz/

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2453536/1

Well it's 4.5L w/out oil filter change

4.7L with oil filter change

5.5L Dry fill

So a flat 5L if you let oil drain for 15 - 20min (enough time for a coffee), i chuck the full 5L jug in. Barely touches over full, realistically 200ml over won't hurt anything. And with 1MZ's you let them run for a minute or 2 then check the engine oil level. But knowing manufactures, they're never always true, my L67 took 5.5L before it touched the full mark, etc, that runs 0w40, only having just touched 110k, i don't plan on changing it.

Well i did do some digging, what can i say 😝

Just wanted to clarify some things, get opinions, etc

Oh btw that's a proven 300k miles, not km's (or roughly 480,000km

Basically the TBN determines the grade of oil, higher TBN's not only cost more, but are superior at protection, neutralizing acidic deposits, etc. Kinda why i was considering a 0w30 or 0w40 simply because compared to 5w30's varying from 7.3 - 8.5, they're well over 10. Considering how much sulphur we have in our fuels, it better protects against deposits like that also 😁

[TommyM]

8 hours ago, campbeam said:

After reading the following URLs, you are on the right track with a full synthetic 5W30 engine oil. Given that the engine oil capacity is only 4.7 litres [2GR-FE has 6.1 litres], I can now see why you are focused upon the TBN.

Apparently 1MZ-FE engine lifespan is 300K so best to stick with the proven results of using 5W30 and an oil change interval of 7500kms [assuming a fair bit of highway driving].

If you are tossing up options then consider reducing the oil change interval. 5000km is old school but oil is cheaper than having to replace an engine.

I do a lot of short distance driving e.g. 15km trips so I have a very reduced oil change interval, about every 2-3 months.

http://www.tcamanual.com/lubrication_system_1mz_8722_fe_3mz_8722_fe_-750.html

http://mywikimotors.com/toyota-1mz/

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2453536/1

If anybody knows too, all speakers in the Avalon are 2ohm correct ?, i know the sub is

Just wanting to replace the factory ones with 2ohm replacements. If they're similar ohm's to the sub

[campbeam]

1 hour ago, TommyM said:

Oh btw that's a proven 300k miles, not km's (or roughly 480,000km

I am just repeating what is in WikiMotors URL: 300,000kms [180,000 miles]

Just checked and WikiMotors has the same lifespan for the 2GR-FE engine. I think that we can both agree that a regularly maintained V6 engine should last longer than that estimate.

Years ago, I was told by an ex-employee of a Toyota dealership who was working in SuperCheap Wagga Wagga NSW that the 2GR-FE engine should last until 400,000 kms before requiring any major rebuild work.

TBN is about neutralising acidic deposits and to protect the engine against corrosion.

https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/articles/what-is-total-base-number/

https://www.spectrosci.com/resource-center/lubrication-analysis/literature/e-guides/guide-to-measuring-tantbn/ 

https://www.chevronlubricants.com/content/dam/external/industrial/en_us/sales-material/sales-sheet/ENGINE OIL ANALYSIS UNDERSTANDING TAN AND TBN 01-28-2019.pdf

 

No direct answer to your question about the speakers but have a read of this URL.

https://www.techwalla.com/articles/2-ohm-vs-4-ohm-speakers

[TommyM]

4 hours ago, campbeam said:

I am just repeating what is in WikiMotors URL: 300,000kms [180,000 miles]

Just checked and WikiMotors has the same lifespan for the 2GR-FE engine. I think that we can both agree that a regularly maintained V6 engine should last longer than that estimate.

Years ago, I was told by an ex-employee of a Toyota dealership who was working in SuperCheap Wagga Wagga NSW that the 2GR-FE engine should last until 400,000 kms before requiring any major rebuild work.

TBN is about neutralising acidic deposits and to protect the engine against corrosion.

https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/articles/what-is-total-base-number/

https://www.spectrosci.com/resource-center/lubrication-analysis/literature/e-guides/guide-to-measuring-tantbn/ 

https://www.chevronlubricants.com/content/dam/external/industrial/en_us/sales-material/sales-sheet/ENGINE OIL ANALYSIS UNDERSTANDING TAN AND TBN 01-28-2019.pdf

 

No direct answer to your question about the speakers but have a read of this URL.

https://www.techwalla.com/articles/2-ohm-vs-4-ohm-speakers

Only reason i asked is because i wanted to keep the stock amplifier, headunit, etc

Hence why if they're 2ohm i'd want to keep them 2ohm, unless by wiring the rears with factory wiring would mean running 2 rear 4ohm speakers would tailor down to a 2ohm load, etc

Which had the nav maps updated just last year (god Denso went overboard back then to still offer map updates on an old system that still works)

[Tony Prodigy]

11 hours ago, campbeam said:

I am just repeating what is in WikiMotors URL: 300,000kms [180,000 miles]

Yeah that seems a little unrealistic actually. I'd take it with a grain of salt anything I read that has wiki preceding it. I seriously don't know how they came up with that figure. Maybe it's based on those who don't maintain their cars at the level they should. Who knows ??

I can't see why a well maintained engine can't do one million kays. I recall a test performed by Mobil 1 some time back, don't have the link atm, where they simulated an engine running on a particular blend of Mobil 1 and it ran close to a million miles or kays (can't remember) and the insides were still as new, albeit with a slight golden sheen on the inside. Very impressive. I'll have to find the link and post back.

[Tony Prodigy]

7 hours ago, TommyM said:

Only reason i asked is because i wanted to keep the stock amplifier, headunit, etc

Hence why if they're 2ohm i'd want to keep them 2ohm, unless by wiring the rears with factory wiring would mean running 2 rear 4ohm speakers would tailor down to a 2ohm load, etc

See if you can find out what the head unit is capable of. Your biggest enemy is impedance, not only through the speaker but also through the speaker cabling.

Stock car amps aren't fancy fair so they like to keep it simple and yet give the impression of a nice sound. The higher the impedance speaker, the more power it will consume and the likelihood of over heating the amp is possible. I'd keep it stock with the 2 ohm speakers and find a decent quality speaker that fits the factory foot print and enjoy it. Depends on how loud you like it. I used to love loud music in my cars when I was a youth, but not so much these days. I'm very content with the stock radio.

[TommyM]

13 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

See if you can find out what the head unit is capable of. Your biggest enemy is impedance, not only through the speaker but also through the speaker cabling.

Stock car amps aren't fancy fair so they like to keep it simple and yet give the impression of a nice sound. The higher the impedance speaker, the more power it will consume and the likelihood of over heating the amp is possible. I'd keep it stock with the 2 ohm speakers and find a decent quality speaker that fits the factory foot print and enjoy it. Depends on how loud you like it. I used to love loud music in my cars when I was a youth, but not so much these days. I'm very content with the stock radio.

Just a decent upgrade, i'm not chasing peak power, but the speakers factory are pretty below average, even my Calais had better factory subs 🤣

The head unit can easily drive another amp, keeping it within spec, it won't cause any issues running factory wiring. Only upgrading to 4ohm, etc you'll probably develop issues. Keeping in within spec you'll be fine.

[TommyM]

13 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

See if you can find out what the head unit is capable of. Your biggest enemy is impedance, not only through the speaker but also through the speaker cabling.

Stock car amps aren't fancy fair so they like to keep it simple and yet give the impression of a nice sound. The higher the impedance speaker, the more power it will consume and the likelihood of over heating the amp is possible. I'd keep it stock with the 2 ohm speakers and find a decent quality speaker that fits the factory foot print and enjoy it. Depends on how loud you like it. I used to love loud music in my cars when I was a youth, but not so much these days. I'm very content with the stock radio.

Any help or advice is better than none at all 😁

Decided on Penrite 10 Tenths Premium 0w40

Overkill, but hey.... it's my money lol

[Tony Prodigy]

16 minutes ago, TommyM said:

Decided on Penrite 10 Tenths Premium 0w40

Overkill, but hey.... it's my money lol

I tend to suffer from the same affliction from time to time too mate. I get it. I really do 

[campbeam]

3 hours ago, TommyM said:

Overkill, but hey.... it's my money lol

When you are DIY, it is also your time and effort.

I know that my oil change procedure is overkill but I am not going to change it. I drain the engine and the oil filter then refill with diesel. Idle the engine for less than 10 minutes which is time enough to put the used oil into a container. Drain the engine and filter of the diesel. Use that time to fit the oil filter which is filled with new oil. Pour a small amount of new oil into the engine to help drain the last of the diesel. Refit the drain plug and fill the engine with new oil. Idle the engine for a minute then stop and check the oil level. Top up to the full level. Nice overkill to ensure that the new oil will not be likely to be contaminated by any residue old oil.

Anyway, nothing wrong with overkill particularly when it produces the benefits you were expecting. There are times and circumstances when your opinion is the most important but at least recognize when you are in overkill mode.

 

[TommyM]

1 hour ago, campbeam said:

When you are DIY, it is also your time and effort.

I know that my oil change procedure is overkill but I am not going to change it. I drain the engine and the oil filter then refill with diesel. Idle the engine for less than 10 minutes which is time enough to put the used oil into a container. Drain the engine and filter of the diesel. Use that time to fit the oil filter which is filled with new oil. Pour a small amount of new oil into the engine to help drain the last of the diesel. Refit the drain plug and fill the engine with new oil. Idle the engine for a minute then stop and check the oil level. Top up to the full level. Nice overkill to ensure that the new oil will not be likely to be contaminated by any residue old oil.

Anyway, nothing wrong with overkill particularly when it produces the benefits you were expecting. There are times and circumstances when your opinion is the most important but at least recognize when you are in overkill mode.

 

This is true 🤣🤣🤣

Others who viewed the thread might have learnt a thing or two lol

[TommyM]

Off topic gentleman/ladies

I'm having a slight issue at the moment, Mark 3 Avalon life ugh...

I know they have impressive headlight performance compared to Ford & Holden of the time, but i'm wanting to change the bulbs over to a clearer/white look or straight LED

I'm considering keeping it OEM halogen for ADR regulations, or should i just go to illumo and buy some LED's and have even better performance. Bulb prices are significantly different. But i'm more stuck on the Headlight is apparently a HB3 where other sources say H4, etc

Judging by my owners manual it's HB3 for low beam, H4 for high beam, simple wedge bulbs for parkers.

Can anybody clarify some stuff ?

Unless i'm simply reading correctly 🤣🤣🤣

But i think i might get some higher quality halogens for obvious reasons (insurance & design) - LED's can screw you over

Edited June 16, 2020 by TommyM

[campbeam]

I think that you have misread your manual. I am seeing H4 for low beam and HB3 for high beam.

I have previously sourced my headlight bulbs from the Powerbulbs website and had no issues. Following URLs should be relevant.

https://www.powerbulbs.com/eu/blog/2017/09/yellow-or-whiter-light

https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/store/category/car-bulbs/fitting/h4-472/bulb-type/styling/sort/customer_rating

https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/store/search/HB3?term=hb3

Probably a good approach to get the higher quality halogen bulbs and when time for replacement then reconsider LED bulbs.

 

[TommyM]

4 hours ago, campbeam said:

I think that you have misread your manual. I am seeing H4 for low beam and HB3 for high beam.

I have previously sourced my headlight bulbs from the Powerbulbs website and had no issues. Following URLs should be relevant.

https://www.powerbulbs.com/eu/blog/2017/09/yellow-or-whiter-light

https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/store/category/car-bulbs/fitting/h4-472/bulb-type/styling/sort/customer_rating

https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/store/search/HB3?term=hb3

Probably a good approach to get the higher quality halogen bulbs and when time for replacement then reconsider LED bulbs.

 

I just noticed the typo lol 🤣🤣🤣

Yeah i've had narva's in my VX Calais for years without any issue, the brightness is definitely noticable (with the avalon lights being far easier to change thankfully). I'll get my setup i have in it & call it a day.

 

Parkers - Narva (Wedge type) "Artic Blue" - more a cool white 

Main Low Beam - Narva "Plus 150" (H4)

Highbeam - Narva "Plus 100" (HB3)

Fog Lights - Narva "Platinum Plus 130" (HB4)

 

*Obviously the bulb types in my VX differ slightly but i have the same setup*

Definitely notice the fog lights more so than anything. Is it worth the $350 for a complete overhaul ?, definitely.

[ZZT86]

1MZ-FE are commonly reported by many in the US doing an easy 500K kms before engine rebuild or attention IF properly looked after, ie: religious OCI from the very beginning. The 2GR-FE is looking like the new darling in the Toyota engine fleet & many are saying will do same if not better. IMO these engines are bombproof if well looked after, I'm a big fan of both.

Edited July 16, 2020 by ZZT86

[ZZT86]

On 6/9/2020 at 5:52 PM, TommyM said:

Decided on Penrite 10 Tenths Premium 0w40

If your engine isn't burning/using any oil & never needs topping up I would continue using 5W30, unless you're constantly flogging it. Just my 2cents . . .

[TommyM]

On 7/16/2020 at 3:34 PM, ZZT86 said:

If your engine isn't burning/using any oil & never needs topping up I would continue using 5W30, unless you're constantly flogging it. Just my 2cents . . .

I've switched it to 0w40 off my own experience with engines that call for a light weight (5w), etc

My rule and decision as to why, i was always told you can always go 5+/- of the winter oil spec (e.g calls for 10w30) but you decided on 5w30 or the nearest 15w whatever viscosity. But i decided 0w40 for the simple reason it covers my entire heat range. Also being a group 4/5 synthetic it's a true synthetic. It doesn't burn or leak a single drip. Hence why i decided on it, also i do know they love getting toasty on the firewall side, so it protects the engine better having the slightly heavier weight oil. I do push it sometimes so it's added piece of mind. Seen many lexus versions of the same non vvti 1MZ switch to 0w40 and boy they loved it. Shears down to a 30w by the time 7500km is up. 

 

Found out 2 things today on my Avalon which took me by suprise.

Having a factory fitted towbar i wasn't expecting any external coolers. The towbar is coming off though.

But nope, it has both an external transmission cooler & power steering cooler. Now i run/drain the tranny safely. Did it today, shifts brilliant. Did already but you can tell how much of an improvement semi synthetic or full synthetic fluids make.

Extending my trans life drastically over the stock radiator only setup they have. I'm finding small quirks in an otherwise brilliant car. It suprised me believe me, wasn't expecting it at all 🤣

But i'm so glad it does. 

 

After further research. Oil choice actually went to Mobil 1 0w40, it's a brilliant oil. Yes Penrite is good, but their 0w40 isn't friction modified. 

Transmission fluid is Penrite Full Synthetic ATF (meets or exceeds Toyota II/III & IV fluid.) 

 

Cleaned & throughly conditioned the leather Wednesday. Came up alot better than i was thinking. Soft, thick, supple leather. The stuff new Toyota's just don't have.

[TommyM]

On 7/16/2020 at 3:34 PM, ZZT86 said:

If your engine isn't burning/using any oil & never needs topping up I would continue using 5W30, unless you're constantly flogging it. Just my 2cents . . .

Mobil 1 0w40 is a group 4 synthetic. I've never had an issue with Mobil oils, they're actually pretty good some of'em. Burned some cobwebs out today, i choose to run my Avalon on 98RON because they actually do alter timing, etc to compensate for higher octane.

 

Less likely to ping/knock.

Better & cleaner burn.

High compression engines i generally prefer high octane fuel.

Noticable smoother & more linear improvements in power/torque, definite increase in fuel economy. And no sulfur fart gas smell which i can't stand on cheap 91RON, makes me dry reach lol 🤣🤣🤣

[TommyM]

On 7/16/2020 at 3:34 PM, ZZT86 said:

If your engine isn't burning/using any oil & never needs topping up I would continue using 5W30, unless you're constantly flogging it. Just my 2cents . . .

VICTORIA being in lockdown is the definition of "*****"

I don't wana see anyone, etc

I simply want to go out for a nice long cruise, sunroof open, enjoying music & being in my own zone, but due to these stay at home rules, basically impossible 😒

I can't wait to cruise again.....

[campbeam]

7 hours ago, TommyM said:

I simply want to go out for a nice long cruise, sunroof open, enjoying music & being in my own zone, but due to these stay at home rules, basically impossible 😒

I can't wait to cruise again.....

I hear and understand your frustration.

For a few minutes on Saturday morning, I was in my own zone. Nice hot breakfast, refuelled the car and just driving at a slow pace with no cars behind. Unfortunately, it only lasted a few minutes so looking forward to a nice highway cruise away from the maddening crowd.

In the meantime, I am doing lots of maintenance etc.

[TommyM]

1 hour ago, campbeam said:

I hear and understand your frustration.

For a few minutes on Saturday morning, I was in my own zone. Nice hot breakfast, refuelled the car and just driving at a slow pace with no cars behind. Unfortunately, it only lasted a few minutes so looking forward to a nice highway cruise away from the maddening crowd.

In the meantime, I am doing lots of maintenance etc.

Same, just finished the interior which took long enough. Pears glycerin soap to get deep into the leather, then a product i've used for years and highly recommend is oakwood leather conditioner, you can get a kit, fantastic stuff. It's a two step system but offers vast conditioning & protection. I wish i had of looked up front before i took the FR cooling fan out which was a bitch on the 4th bolt, only to find out the trans cooler was literally 5mins access 🤣🤣🤣🤣

Drained the transmission (run & flush), pump out the old stuff while filling new stuff, for now but i'll be doing the filter on the 7th. Bit of a waste, but it's definitely worth it, shifts so smoothly with Penrite Semi Syn ATF. But i will say, my Avalon does have some k's on it, but the engine is no where near tired, when that ACIS crossover kicks in, it pulls stupidly hard. Thanks Toyota for maintaining it properly, considering how much work was done in the last 2 years, i got it for an absolute steal 🤣🤣🤣

[Tony Prodigy]

4 hours ago, campbeam said:

In the meantime, I am doing lots of maintenance etc.

I can't even do any of that Ash. It's raining quite moderately here today. I wanted to remove the pcv for inspection.

[campbeam]

25 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I can't even do any of that Ash. It's raining quite moderately here today. I wanted to remove the pcv for inspection.

Raining all day Saturday and this morning. Finally nice and sunny just in time for a Sunday nap. 

[Tony Prodigy]

A nap would glorious right about now lol..