good take-off

[shmicko]

I know, i'm no match for most cars on the road LOL. But I was wondering how could I get a good take-off with 1ZZ-FE Auto? Someone told me to hold the breaks and accelration together, get around 3-3.5k rpm and let go of the accelerator.

Is there any other techniques that would be more effective?

[SyxXPaC]

I know, i'm no match for most cars on the road LOL. But I was wondering how could I get a good take-off with 1ZZ-FE Auto? Someone told me to hold the breaks and accelration together, get around 3-3.5k rpm and let go of the accelerator.

Is there any other techniques that would be more effective?

"let go of the accelerator. "

????? that wont do you any good!! :o :o

[GAZOOM]

Foot off the brake

Put it into neutral and rev it up to 3K then wack it into drive.

Kill your gear box so probably better to get a manual transmission car.

Edited November 12, 2006 by GAZOOM

[Saiya]

If I need to race off in my auto what I usually do as your friend said was hold the brake pedal down, then rev till about 3K rpm, then quickly let go of the brake and floor the accelerator.

Dont do this too often or rev too high, its not very healthy for the transmission.

[jamsbong]

I've tried on a manual. hold on the e-brake, 1st gear and engage the clutch lightly and accelerator. Similar to the start move when you're climbing a hill.

Then Release the e-brake, floor the accel, and get go of the clutch gently.

There is not much you can do with Auto. Put gear in drive. then rev with brake on, release brake, floor the accel.

Btw, how much rev do u need to get the Auto to wheel spin on take off?

On a manual sedan with stock suspension, anything more than 2500rpm kick up some crazy wheelspin. is annoying actually.

[sportiyo]

for it to wheel spin with auto, put in N rev it to maybe 4 grand put it into drive and floor it, but for it to launch quicker, do what your mate told you butlet go of the brake not the gas :) , because by putting into N and than put it into drive you have to wait for the gearbox to react and you will loose that half a second

[BigBum]

Yeah as these guys said, the N -> D method is laggy. The holding brake method only allows you to rev up to 3K max as it seems to be a Toyota thing. Either way, you lose. Although holding the brake method is quicker off the line.

[Delvance]

Putting it into N, revving then sliding it into D will not be healthy for your transmission at all. Too much revs and a few times later you'll be looking at a big bill for fixing your tranny. As most people have said, just use your left foot to hold on the brake and dial the revs in. It's actually not that bad if you don't do it for too long...just loading the torque converter up. Different cars will have different RPMs you can hold before the brakes can't hold the car stationary anymore. Just find the max RPM your brakes/converter can hold, then find the RPM that causes wheelspin. You want to eventually be using an RPM that will give only a hint of wheelspin then grip. Also, it may be faster if you actually release the brake and gradually/smoothly feed the throttle on, as flooring it instantly may cause the engine to run too rich and not accelerate quickly.

It's all different for different cars/models...just got to find the right combo that works for you and your particular car.

[sportiyo]

Putting it into N, revving then sliding it into D will not be healthy for your transmission at all. Too much revs and a few times later you'll be looking at a big bill for fixing your tranny. As most people have said, just use your left foot to hold on the brake and dial the revs in. It's actually not that bad if you don't do it for too long...just loading the torque converter up. Different cars will have different RPMs you can hold before the brakes can't hold the car stationary anymore. Just find the max RPM your brakes/converter can hold, then find the RPM that causes wheelspin. You want to eventually be using an RPM that will give only a hint of wheelspin then grip. Also, it may be faster if you actually release the brake and gradually/smoothly feed the throttle on, as flooring it instantly may cause the engine to run too rich and not accelerate quickly.

It's all different for different cars/models...just got to find the right combo that works for you and your particular car.

well i did the N to D thing more than 10 times in my first car(daihatsu applause :) ) and it was ok and did it about 5 times on the rental car(very old camery), but i do agree its very bad for your tranny

[DHC09]

If i want to hold higher revs, i put it in N, hold the brake and give it a quick jab on the accel, doing this u'll feel the brake sink deeper (brake harder). Torque braking i think its called. Put back in D and I usually rev it to 3K or less, and for no more than a few seconds, partly cause i get a fair bit of wheel spin and also dont want to cut short the life of my tranny. On green let the brake go and accel away!

[Hiro]

If i want to hold higher revs, i put it in N, hold the brake and give it a quick jab on the accel, doing this u'll feel the brake sink deeper (brake harder). Torque braking i think its called.

I think you'll find thats actually just the vacuum booster helping out. How the hell can you get "torque braking" when the car is stationary and in neutral? Rev the engine, creates excess vacuum which makes the pedal depress easier, simple. Note that when turned off, the brake pedal goes hard very quickly, as the vacuum boost has been used up. Turn the engine on, and the boost returns

[DHC09]

Actually its called "brake-torque" :P

It may be surprising for some to know that many pro drag-racing cars have heavy-duty auto gearboxes. That's because the brake-torque launch is an automatic specialty. This launch involves keeping the car stationary by flooring the brakes with the left foot, while using the right foot to rev up the engine against the torque converter. In technical terms, this preloads the entire drivetrain with the stress of a launch, allowing the engine to rev closer to its power and torque peaks at the starting line.

At the starting line, shift your auto gearbox into neutral and floor the brake pedal with your left foot. Rev the engine once and quickly get off the throttle. You will feel the brake pedal sink further to the floor. This greatly increases the braking force. Now shift back into gear. You will now be able to rev up the engine even higher against the torque converter.

http://www.modernracer.com/tips/dragracing...techniques.html

[MT]

SNAP

[Hiro]

Bloody torque converters.......Just when you think you have them sussed, they go and do something illogical on you

If I never have to deal with an auto, I'll be a happy guy

The thing about the pedal sinking further to the floor is to do with the vacuum boost though (note the line about having "Power brakes" aka vacuum-assisted). How hard you can press on the brake pedal has nothing to do with how you rev the engine (or whether it's an auto or a manual, in gear or neutral), apart from the vacuum boost. A lot of vacuum is made when you lift off the accelerator from high revs, giving a large amount of assistance to the brake pedal. More vacuum means less pedal pressure required for the same amount of travel, which is why the pedal will sink slightly (you're still applying the same pressure)

Edited November 15, 2006 by Hiro Protagonist

[Mopp]

The way i read that the brakes arent helped out by the torque ofthe engine, there opposing it to allow the drivetrain to build up, or torbos to build pressure

Nothing to do with brakes getting more powerful

Am i wrong cos if i am thats cool, ive never done any real drag racing plus i dont drve an auto.

[DHC09]

Seriously hero.. who cares wat its called or whats happening or not happening... IT WORKS!! u can rev higher without the car moving by "brake-torque"

Dunno why ur getting so rev'ed up about.. u dont even drive an auto.. go for a drive around the block and shift some gears

[Hiro]

I'm just trying to clear up some confusion and ambiguity surrounding this. Autos (in particular torque converters) are very complicated devices (I know, I've studied them at uni), and often it is very hard to describe their actions in simple laymans terms. In my limited knowledge of autos, the "brake torque" method being described here is using the brakes to lock the output side of the torque converter to the ground. By applying the brakes, the system can be pre-loaded to prevent shock. Revving the engine once will allow you to press the brake pedal _SLIGHTLY_ harder, this means that the brakes are providing more force to stop rotation of the wheels, and hence allowing more preload into the system. It is NOT a result of brake torque, it's a technique to improve the performance of the "brake torque" technique. The ability to brake harder is not due to the auto or brake-torque itself, it is due to the vacuum boost system used in most modern cars, auto or manual.

I'm not trying to say anything about people using autos for drag racing, I know it's extremely common especially with big capacity high-torque engines (try getting a decent strength manual for a V8 drag car that doesn't require He-Man strength to press the clutch or shift). I'm not disputing the technique of loading the transmission up against the brakes and the torque converter, but I'm trying to clear up some people's misconceptions about it.

Give me a manual any day of the week though, every car that I've owned and/or driven (including a sequential manual race car) has been manual, and I wouldn't want it any other way.

Edited November 15, 2006 by Hiro Protagonist

[selyaT]

SNAP

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

[shmicko]

WOW! This is getting heated! ROFL @ 'He-Man strength'

Thanks for all the replies guys, im gonna show that chick and her 323 astina.

Auto power! :P LOL

[selyaT]

LOL yeah bro give grandma one for me too.

1ZZ pride!

[Saiya]

Autos represent!

[Delvance]

Does the 1ZZ-FE auto really need 3.5k RPMs before breaking traction though ? I ask because i don't drive one, but i would've thought 2 to 2.5k rpms would've been enough. If 2 to 2.5k rpms is enough, there would be no point doing the neautral, press brakes, blip throttle, engage D/L then rev. Wheels spinning excessively just means power not going into accelerating the car...i guess it'd be helpful if you had super sticky rubber, but you'd still need good suspension and the FWD will still be working against your launch.

Lol Shmicko, is the Astina manual ? If it is and she does a decent launch, it should still jump ahead of a 1ZZ using the brake launch technique.

[JJCRU23R]

i think i did this a lot on my very first car (auto ford laser 87).. had heaps of car trouble with it... particularly the trans.

didnt realise it at the time but now i know that i was killing the car!

learn to drive manual thats all i can say!

[XploShun]

will better tyres reduce the wheel spins?

i have wheel spins all the time.. its fricking annoying..

[Delvance]

will better tyres reduce the wheel spins?

i have wheel spins all the time.. its fricking annoying..

Better tyres (as in grippier ones) will reduce wheelspin although not significantly. Good upgrade though...as it doesn't just benefit launches but everything else as well (braking, feel, mechanical grip available etc). My rolla went from Silverstone FTZ sports (CRAP!) to BF Goodrich G-force sports...huuuugggeeee difference.

My FTO also wheelspins quite happily on aggressive gear changes, thinking i might get an LSD and better tyres sometime down the road.