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Andrew357

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Everything posted by Andrew357

  1. Andrew357
    Money is tight. Will still put away money for this (started a New account just for it!) and see how things are. Bloodyjust realised Rego is due in June as well >_<
  2. Andrew357
    Change of plans.. Will be unable to attend this year's meet.
  3. Andrew357

    The M14 rifle was first furnished with a walnut stock, then with birch and finally with a synthetic stock. Original equipment walnut and birch stocks carry the Department of Defense acceptance stamp or cartouche (an arc of three stars above a spread-winged eagle). These stocks also carried a proof stamp, a P within a circle, applied after successful test-firing.

    1. Kenshin X

      Kenshin X

      never knew the pom chef knew alot about guns also? maybe he should start firing that instead of his foul mouth

  4. Andrew357
    Looks like it. I'll be there tonight, not for very long though.
  5. Andrew357
    First problem is it sounds like it is too tightly put on. I have also found filter.wrenches useless so i found: - Take off the heatshield - Bang the top of the filter so you can get a better grip - screwdriver method To assist in the future: - make sure it isn't put on so tightly - use a filter with a removal nut (K&N HP-1002) As for the leaking bit? Impossible to not make it leak. :P
  6. Andrew357
    2 thin vacuum lines and a power connector. It sits under the engine cover. http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_G_2003_TOYOTA_CAMRY_MCV36R-DEMVKQ_1708.2.html?hl=25860 Doesn't look particularly difficult
  7. Andrew357
    *prays fervently for a 15kw increase* hahahahaha
  8. Andrew357
    Quick question for those who own an ATX with the 4-spoke steering wheel: With the two plastic 'ornaments' that sit next to the airbag cover; do either of the plastic panels have any audio controls on them?
  9. Andrew357
    It's an earlier OBDII system so chances are your handheld doesn't have the data chip required. I've had 3 different OBDII scanners plugged in mine and none of them work. A workshop OBDII reader however (those damn expensive ones you wouldn't bother buying for home use) will read it no problem. There is no way around this.
  10. Andrew357
    No. But it seems odd to create a thread about it.
  11. Andrew357
    *bows head* Yes Jesus. Of course Jesus. Whatever you wish, Jesus. :)
  12. Andrew357
    *shrugs* May or may not be in tonight.
  13. Andrew357

    Holy buggery. Everyone is getting a supercharger.

    1. STYLSH

      STYLSH

      ^^^!!!

    2. Kenshin X

      Kenshin X

      >:)

  14. Andrew357
    Club spec? Street/4000/5000 series? What are the dimensions of the rotors?
  15. Andrew357
    The A1RM's are very aggressive and you won't be getting much life from your rotors. The HPX's are a FAR better choice, especially if you aren't tracking your car regularly. Same braking co-efficient when cold, good heat tolerance, not aggressive on your rotors, low dust and low/no noise.
  16. Andrew357
    Sort of. The Kluger and Gen3 upgrades do work; but you need to screw around with the brackets and things. The TRD upgrade is all bolt on which is why I went this way. Just get RDA or DBA rotors (street/scum series is fine, I'm assuming it won't be pushed within an inch of it's life) and save a bucketload; even with redrilling and locating rings. Edit: In fact, yes you do. What you don't pay in money, you pay in time doing the designing, running around getting quotes/work done + engineering etc. You have to pay to play indeed.
  17. Andrew357

    Jesus H Tap-dancing Christ I have seen the light!

  18. Andrew357
    Under the seats and the sub amp in the boot for me. The F and R amps are under the seats (as this is where the mob who did the initial install did it) and I am too lazy and too cheap to relocate. My sub amp just chills between the back seat and the boot liner.
  19. Andrew357
    I will be bringing the scales but not the results.
  20. Andrew357
    Another vote for QFM HPX pads here.
  21. Andrew357
    They are an odd but HOT looking tread pattern.
  22. Andrew357
    I personally have switched from K&N to Purolator PureONE filters since my last post. Basically the same filter except there is no removal nut (redundant given I can remove by hand anyway), has a rough surface so there is no need for a filter wrench and it has more filtering surface than the K&N at about 1/2 the cost.
  23. Andrew357
    Old thread but my brother got some Nitto INVO for his VE Senator and says they are much better overall than the RE050A's he replaced them with. Better in the dry but significantly better in the wet and a fraction of the price of the Bridgestones.
  24. Andrew357
    I can't speak for all filters, but I've been using non-genuine since 75k (just did a change today @ 152k) and haven't had an issue. I can see your passion for Genuine; you're like a Jesus of the Genuine Parts World.
  25. Andrew357
    But there isn't anything wrong with non-genuine filters though.
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