STYLSH

Here you go the install instructions http://www.installdr.com/InstallDocs/Toyota/PDF/869037.pdf With the wiring diagram, just buy a wiring kit from supercheap/autobarn. It'll cost you about $20-30 and save you cutting up your harness. But if you still want to cut it up then here http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Toyota-Wiring.pdf I have used this diagram myself

The stock V6 plugs are not Iridiums. They are platinum ones which last about 150k. The Iridiums costs significantly more and only last about 75-100k. I changed my platinum plugs to the Iridiums, IK22 when I put the charger on as it is safer.

Thanks Bud. You have a V6, yeah?! What did you do with the factory muffler? I am keen to purchase a muffler from a V6 Altise Sport, Sportivo or Azura. As these have the factory fitted "Sports Mufflers". Anyone keen to part with a V6 Muffler? PM me! Those models dont actually have the "sports muffler" installed. It is still a factory option even for those models. Although it has a nice sound to it, it would still be too loud for your average camry owner hence they wouldnt put it on unless its requested. I still have the standard muffler but as said, its just your normal plain jane V6 muffler, not the sports one.

I dont like clarion amps at all unfortunately. And I've had kicker subs. They were good for the money, played loud and hard but didnt sound the best.

I'll look at my invoice tonight

:P Shannon :P The sub model that I have is the top of the range from Image Dynamics (IDmax) :P and yes it costs more than double the $350. Here is the pic :) It doesnt look that flashy though. I dont know if there are too many people out that who knows about Tru-technology amps. http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/products.php?Family_Id=2 The ID12 http://service.winnet.it/Gttrading4/easysi...wister&pg=1 The Audiosystem Twister range of amps

Everything that i have suggested are all sound quality related products. Ones that can win car audio competitions if set up right. :)

Hey Shan :P how did you know, I'll be in this thread :P And Eclipse should be placed after Alpine and waaaaay before jaycar. Earthquake..... *shakes head* Sean, have you listened to those speakers? Since speakers are every subjective, even if I like a set, you might not so the BIG rule of them with speakers is to listen to them. Some brands are more harsh, some are nice and warm, some are softer. It depends on which you prefer. Never buy them because of the brand. And is the 2k budget including amps because there you need to rethink the build if it is. If it is 2k all up... things i would change. 1. Dont upgrade your rears. Rears are ONLY for rear passengers (unless you are going for 5.1). Ultimately, in a perfect system, you as the driver never actualy hear anything from the rear speakers. Rear passengers are free loaders, so just use your stock speakers for them. 2. Just get 1 better sub and a bigger amp with the potential to run 2 subs later on IF 1 is not enough. More does not mean better in this case. 1 sub being run with lots of power is better than 2 subs being run with minimal power. The chance of blowing stuff up with less power is actually higher than if you give it too much power. HU: $500 Splits: $550 Sub: $350 Amps: $600 This would be what I'd be looking at in terms of budgetting. Yes it wont look as impressive as 2 subs but its about the sound :) I'm not going to advise you on the H/U as you're prolly set on that one. Spilts: I like the warmer sounding splits which does pierce your ear drums :P. I'd go for something like the Alpine Type X 6.5in splits (they actually sound very much like speakers worth 1k but for half the price). rrp $599 but you can easily get it cheaper or I'll ask for you Focals are another brand to look at. But these are too harsh/sharp for me. Be careful of fakes too on the internet. Sub: Image Dynamics ID12 rrp $350. You may or may not have heard of them but Image dynamics makes one of the best sounding subs made. You would be looking at about $300 or so. (I think i got one for that for someone on Tocau/Auscam. Amps: Depending one what you are going to go for. 1 amp for simplicity on install, cheaper... or 2 amps or a more intricate install, more expensive but gives more power. I would probably recommending using 1 big 4 channel due to budget restraints. You can always get a sub amp later on if you feel the need and bridge the 4 channel to just feed the fronts, (and/ rears if you want to get it later on down the track). Alpine MRP-F600 would probably be a good choice. 4x100w rms or for the system, it'll be 2x100w rms + 1x300w rms. Or if you were to spend a couple of hundred more, you'll be able to get a 2 amps. Splits: Audiosystem (not to be confused with the budget copies "Audioline") F2-130. 2x65w rms Sub: Audiosystem F2-190 1x520w rms Once again you may or maynot have heard of the brand Audiosystem, but their amps are made in italy and are exceptional value for the quality. Wow such a big post... Longer than I thought I'd be writing at 12:30 in the morning lol NOTE: This is a guide for what I would get for that budget as I have heard systems with this setup and sounding very nice in actual cars. Note #2: I do not work for any car audio store or have any interest in any shop. Speaking as a good customer of a shop that has given me the knowledge and being given the chance to audition many differnt setups. Let me know if you want details of the shop, they stock these more exotic brands. I hope this helps - now time for bed, 12 hour shift tomorrow :( Anthony

Yup I bought one of the last ones as well. But pretty sure they are all gone. I'll ask my parts contact on monday when I call him up about my order for new bits.

HAHAHAAH! The mum laughing the whole time was what made the video! :P

And in english perhaps? Actually stop posting completely !!

rofl I like the second bus more too!!! That went down that the strip quick! :P

Realistically speaking. I would sell the auto and get a manual! Here is why. Prices for parts from toyota if you can't find them from wreakers but must haves... 1. Manual ECU - $2200 2. Drive axles are different - $500 PER SIDE (you need both as the autos DONT sit into the gearbox properly) 3. Gearbox - You dont even want to know what Toyota wants for them. Wreckers, you'll be able to get them for about 600-800 depending on km 4. Flywheel - $460 5. Clutch - $360 6. Transmission mount plate and transmission mount - $150 7. Labout - $2000 These are the major things, now for the minor things 1. Clutch master cylinder 2. Manual brake master cylinder 3. Clutch + Brake pedals 4. Shifter 5. Trim panels 6. Gear Knob 7. Shifter cable 8. Assorted bolts (flywheel bolts, pressure plate dowels etc...) 9. New axle seals ^^ These "minor" things actually add up in costs very very fast! I know this as a fact as I've been researching this for a while. The reason why I havent done what I suggested to you is that I have a S/C on my car and a good condition, manual gen4 is rare as hell. The also s/c doesnt fit without mods on the more common manual gen5s. But the final straw is that my auto box is slowing dying.......

Yeah they are only about that. BUT the thing is what they are rated and what they are getting are 2 completely different things. Hence the reason why I said to ignore the spec sheets. The spilts are getting 400+w rms each side... And also if you remember them, my tweeter are actually heavier than the 6.5in woofers that are in the doors. And you can buy half a supercharger with those splits :P You're joking right?

lol Shan, my speakers are only 75w I think. :P What does that mean? :P I'd say to disregard spec's and their sheets and make the judgement on speakers using your ears :). Listen to all the brands and pick out which one your ears like best.

Gen3's fronts are a big pain... They have 4in stock drivers up front. If you want something easy, you'll need to get 4in speakers but even then it wont bolt up perfectly. And the other bad news is you dont have much room between the trim panel and the door. Pretty much you need to mod stuff if you want to change your fronts.

Injectors and spark plugs would be another thing that I'll definitely be changing if I was doing the swap.

Hmm thats strange. Anything over 4psi, our injectors start becoming very unreliable (100% duty). Thats why everyone in the states had to put the supra non turbo ones in. Fuel pump and remapped ecu would definitely have had been done at that boost level, even at 4psi it is necessary. But the most important thing with our 1mz engine that stops everyone being able to boost to high is the very very sensitive knock sensor! Anything over 5.5 and you're tempting fate! Oh by the way, my link is about the 2az engine :)

The TS01 was actually only running 4psi worth of boost to put out 185kw. Anything more you will need injectors, and fuel pump upgrade as well as a air flow controller. And I think the stock Scions in the states (they use the 2az motor) which is boosted to 7psi. http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Drive...rticleId=108776 here you go, a little bit of info to what they did to the engine.

Firstly how did he get into that in the first place?? And why would you be pulling from that angle anyways :s Well looks like it could be a write off anyway lol

Try the ground loop isolator first. It's like 20-30 bucks...

You need a ground loop isolator. Classic interference caused by bad grouds, rca cables with powercables, faulty/cheap h/u internals. If it is caused by the latter, then nothing will really help it. This is a bandaid approach, it doesnt fix the problem, just covers it up for you.

Yup thats sounds like what i had to do when i had to program my parents car remote.

Are you going to put one on? Only problem is that you have an auto.

I'm pretty sure he had it done at Northfield at Moorooka. All great blokes there and the workmanship is amazing :)