Noodle Boy

i run 40psi at the front and 38 at the back for optimised wear and performance. it works on my 17" tyres. i suggest running higher pressures for low profile tyres.

my hand was so worn out that i didn't bother with trying any further, hence i left it as it is and placed a layer of wax over it, before going on to detail the rest of the car. i might give it another shot with the scratch remover before considering the clay bar(yet to have any), since i can still see some small scratches, now that i gave it a close look from another angle.

got a quote for the repair of $800 or thereabouts. i asked the technician whether the paint/rubber transfer and he stated that i needed some rubbing compound. i went to repco and grabbed some mothers scratch remover which was on special. after some elbow grease, most of the scratches were covered, leaving only a few tiny paint/rubber dots that are still hard to remove. the dents still remain however. i may consult pdr once i have time, or even giving it a shot myself. overall, the car looks heaps better than before. spot the difference.

coilovers?! no wonder the wheel alignment was done.

i knew that if i'm not able to obtain the details of the other party that i would have to get the car repaired at my expense. this occured in the northern suburbs, fyi jeff. i was wondering if the quote were to be a little high(if the panel beater were to repaint the whole two panels), whether i could try and get the paint transfer off and moving on with some scratches and getting the dent repaired with PDR. the damage if looked closed doesn't look too bad, the paint transfer seems to be quite clean with the occasional scratch and scuff.

this morning i got to a market to get some groceries. my car was parked in their car park and when i came out their was a long line of rubber or black paint on the two left doors. pictures are below. there's a dent on the rear door which is shown on the right, and a few scracthes in between. unfortunately no one has evidence upon who had done it, so i have to go to the expense of getting it repaired myself. my question to you is whether it can be repaired without a repaint. i know that the dent can be done with PDR, considering the dent isn't sharp or has any paint stripped off. but ultimately what should i do, get the insurance involved or not in this instance. correct me if i'm wrong, but i have to pay excess if i were to go with a claim don't i? thanks all in advance.

you mean 300000km? on a '07 model? f*** me...that proves to everyone out there that aurions are still reliable despite not japanese built. and like what kim said, good luck and please tell us you went.

i only go to a toyota dealership solely because the car is still under warranty. after that i will do the services myself. you could so as well-it would save yourself a fortune, even when the mechanic charges you less than a dealership. it depends on where you are in the northern suburbs but in lalor theres a reputable workshop called domjohn(corner station st and david st). they've been around for as long as i can remember, and ive had friends who rate them highly. theres usually high demand there, judging from the times at which i drive past it.

i don't live in sydney, but i've had my car repaired using PDR after the hailstorm down here in Melbourne a few months back. The car had various dents that were supposedly much shallower than those on many other cars that were affected. the shallower the easier it is to remove. make sure the dent isn't a sharp one as well, with no paint chips or scratches, otherwise it requires some paint to produce a desirable result.

spotted a red stivo parking at the red lights corner of cooper st and high st at around 1:10pm. the rear was debadged, lowered and running on some sweet looking black 17" mags. didn't get to take a photo i'm afraid.

this reply may annoy various people out there, therefore i'd like to make my apology upfront. since a lot of our members, inluding myself, have had the pulling-left issue and had gone ahead and installed either camber bolts or offset bushes, i'd thought i'd go through any other alternatives, since i want to save some cash and dealing with a dealer will seem overwhelming for me. I wanted to go with 'the adjusting the camber' approach since my car could do with some extra negative camber. I came across a few forums which suggested filing or slotting the lower strut hole to allow the bolt to be moved, enabling the adjustment of camber either more positively or negatively. so i'd thought that what i could do is adjust the left strut to be a bit more negative than the right which will push the car up the slope of a typical road, by filing or drilling the left lower strut hole (and maybe a bit on the right if needed) to accomodate this.once finished i will get the wheels re-aligned. However, i'd like to see your opinions upon this in terms of worth, safety and ease.

depending whether the car came with stock camber bolts, car's fully stock, nothing done to it, so i assume it's got stock camber bolts.

i'm not sure if this has ever been asked prior to this instance, but, can the camber be adjusted despite the car not running a camber kit? i'm a bit of a noob in this department....

i'm sorry, but myself and probably some others who are having trouble reading you have to say. No offence intended, but i'm sure it would be better if we could understand what you're saying in order to help you.

as ar as i'm aware, the oil placed into the power steering of the Aurion is transmission oil, which i presume is the case with the Camry as well.

saw a black sportivo drive past me whilst driving home yesterday. didn't get to distinguish whether it's an sx6 or zr6 though. i'm still adament that it looks hideous.

Lemans in Footscray may look outdated but provide good deals and customer service. That's why i bought my car there, despite living in the northern suburbs. Otherwise Gary McMillan in Preston seem alright as well, got quoted a good price, but ended up buying it at Lemans. The deal i got at Anthony Smith in Coburg was a tad higher than that of the other two, but more reasonable than many other dealers out there.

for me the pairing was successful(i have the same phone and we have the same head unit i'm assuming) ,but the whole transering of the phonebook is just a pain. a lot of people on here have mere or no chance in doing so far. i, myself have to live with that fact now. the pairing was a bit difficult, but after many attempts, it finally worked. so persevere. my piece of advice is that you try to activate the bluetooth within the head until first, sometimes it means for you to fully ignite the engine because it sometimes wouldn't let you press the bluetooth icon, then activate bluetooth on the phone and finally enter the pass key. sometimes it wouldn't auto connect straight away, so try to do so manually. then hopefully it should override the settings upon second use. if not you should know how to change the settings. i had to employ this method on three phones, otherwise it would never be possible. best of luck!

imagine going to school every morning in that..

perhaps so. you may be right. i'm suspecting the water to be entering via either tail light, as i notice leakage through the left side to the spare wheel, which i question is the water coming in through the left taillight, but after many visits to the dealer, the problem is yet to be verified. However, the recall was amed for facelifted variants built before the start 2010, if my memory serves me correct, but mine was built in Feb of '10.

guys without knowledge of driving wouldn't be able to hit the road altogether...

whereabouts in the boot? i have a similar issue with the left side of the boot, wondering if it's a common issue or not. this occurs when there's rain and after i wash the car.

i saw that on the news this afternoon.