Hiro

Thanks Hiro..I will do that. I know that fuel economy will be bad for short distances but what is the min a camry altise can give for short distances? So do you think my car's fuel economy is acceptable? Thanks, Mc Assuming you actually are putting in 35L for that 220km, you're getting 15-16L/100km, but if you're just saying 35L because it is half of 70 then you're probably putting in something more like 30L, which would be 13.6L/100. Factory urban fuel consumption figures are 12.4L/100, so you're not that far off. Fill the tank up, reset your trip meter and then drive around on your normal routes for a good ~400-500km. Refill at the same service station and record the litres you put in and the kms travelled and then come back to us, otherwise it is all just asusmptions and guess-timations.

Fuel gauges are inaccurate and not necessarily linear - you can't assume that the halfway mark is actually half a tank in volume (especially since "E" doesn't indicate completely empty). Always calculate fuel economy based off the actual litres you pump into the car to fill it up and the distance travelled since the last refill (ie trip-meter). Also, you're doing a relatively short distance in heavy traffic with an auto - your fuel economy WILL be bad regardless.

Straight from VSB14 http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb_ncop.aspx Thus, a spare wheel which is a different size/offset/width to the normal wheels fitted is perfectly legal, as long as it is a true spare and not used as part of the normal tyre rotation, and also that

Sure they're referring to wheel/rim diameter and not overall rolling diameter?

Engine braking doesn't suffer from brake fade either...

Tyre sizes are spot on, less than 0.5% different. Unless Queensland has some weird backward rule regarding spare tyres, there is no reason why that shouldn't be legal.

Who "advised" you? Sounds like complete baloney considering plenty of cars come with space-saver wheels that are smaller than the factory fitment - the key is keeping rolling diameter the same, so as long as your 14" spare has the same overall size as the 15" mags then there won't be a problem.

There's not really anything cheap that you can do to a 4AFE that will give you noticeable gains - intake/exhaust is the standard and may net you ~5kw at the wheels, but past that you're into custom-land and looking at big dollars. Anything worthwhile that can be done to a 4AFE can also be done to a 4AGE, so whilst it may not make the most financial sense now either buying a halfcut or selling and buying an SX/GTi model will benefit in the long run. Apart from that, handling can always be improved and will give a bigger smile on your dial than engine mods will - better shocks and lowered springs, sway bays, nice 15/16" wheels and good quality tyres will make the world of difference in the corners.

As far as topping-up the radiator or coolant overflow bottle is concerned, if you're not 100% certain of what coolant is in the engine just use distilled water (or even tap water if you're not completely anal or your local source isn't liquid calcium). The quantity you are adding is relatively small in comparison to the volume of the whole system so the dilution factor will be minimal (just don't do it over the long term as you'll eventually reduce the concentration too low).

Not much - RA60s aren't that desirable, and the coupes even less so (although they can have that "ugly-but-cool" aspect). An absolute minter might go for a couple of grand to an enthusiast, a rust-bucket you might not be able to give away.

The white Altis is the SE-Asia/US ZZE122 sedan (we got the JDM one which looks different), not the AE112 Superifcially they may look similar but I'd doubt that major dimensions (and in this case the key one being boot width) would be the same since the ZZE122 was the first of the Corollas to move to a "tall-boy" body-style.

Check the pins when the lights are actually turned on - they are ground-switched so when they are turned off all three pins could be floating at 12V with no current flow. You should find that one pin supplies 12V to both high and low-beam circuits, then the combination switch (ie the stalk on the steering column) will ground whichever circuit is needed. I don't know exactly what circuit the Paseo has but on the Corolla of the same vintage the headlight relay controls both low and high beam (probably because they are a combined bulb)

Went out to get dinner the other night and I noticed that the headlights weren't turning on - parkers/indicators/fogs/tail-lights all worked fine, but lows and highs were completely unresponsive (and the dash indicator didn't come on for high-beam either). Wife then proceded to tell me that the headlights started cutting out intermittently on her a few nights previously (nice to be informed of these things...) before dying completely. Checked the headlight fuses today just in case and they were fine, next thought was the combi-switch but the dash still dims when you turn the lights on, the auto-headlight relay still clicks when you cover the sensor, and obviously the parkers are still working. Done a bit of reading and it seems to be either the headlight relay or the integration relay - apparently the integration relay is a real pain to change and I don't seem to be suffering any other symptons (door jamb lights, key-ring light and dome-lights are all fully functional), so my hopes are on the main headlight relay in the engine bay. Would this be a special relay or can I just go down to Supercheap/Repco and use any 4-pin relay off the shelf (never had to play around with anything more complicated than wires and fuses)?

There is no point speculating on what might be causing it if you don't know what is physically faulty, just pull the codes first and see what that tells you.

Sounds like you've got error codes stored in the ECU - get them checked and fixed/cleared before anything else.

Good-o, just wasn't too sure what the JZX90s came out with (I would have thought they would have been the same as the Soarers and had the two different types depending on model year)

Early R154s have a non-remote shifter housing where the stick comes up direct out of the box. Depending on model some had a gooseneck shifter and/or different length top housings to bring the knob position further back (early JZZ30 for instance). Later ones had a remote shifter housing with extra linkages and a big y-brace (which you can see in your picture above) like the remote W58 and V160 I _think there are 4 different ones in total Early non-remote w/ gooseneck - MA70/JZA70 Early non-remote w/ gooseneck and longer housing - early JZZ30 Mid-life remote w/ straight stick - JZX90, JZX100, late JZZ30 Late remote w/ straight stick (a bit further back again) - JZX110 If that is the case then the JZX90 one should be the same/close-enough to the JZX100 one so you'll be OK, but there are enough different types running around (and people often modify ones to make them fit in different models) that you need to be careful otherwise the trans tunnel could require mods or you could be punching the centre console with every second shift. MA70 Early JZZ30 JZX90/JZX100/late-JZZ30

Yeah, that sounds like you :P Was just a thought since you said it was coming out of a JZX90 which is a different shifter to the JZX100 *actually meant shifter housing

So you'll be getting the proper extension housing for the R154?

Definitely a 4AFE-powered AE101

Looks like the NSW one, a couple of things appear to have changed over the years but the engine setup looks the same.

You might be better off buying another car then. There are off-the-shelf turbo kits from the US for the Scion 2AZ (from memory there is a tiny bit of work to make it fit the Camry), but a decent bolt-on turbo kit (without changing internals) for the 2AZ will probably only bump you up to stock Aurion V6 power levels, for a lot more hassle and decreased reliability. Do the basics first (exhaust, intake, better suspension etc) and see how happy you are with the car, it'll never be a rocketship but if you were after performance then a 4-cyl Camry is not the best place to start (your mention of turbo Liberty etc doesn't take into account Subaru's extensive rally history and development of the EJ-series engine over many years) Have a read of this thread, it might give you some help http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/32660-gen-6-turbo-camry/

Define "safe" and "increase". You could increase power by 1kW incredibly safely, but you wouldn't notice the difference. What kind of goals/money are we talking about here?

Why is it annoying? If you're getting annoyed with doing the indicated speed limit and are constantly being overtaken/tail-gated, there's a decent chance that it isn't that the other cars have more accurate speedos, rather that they are speeding.

Starting in second gear is a common "snow-mode" feature, to avoid wheelspin when starting in slippery/icy conditions.