MR22ZZ

Considering the troubles you had with the clutch and gearbox, the fact you are walking away with a good feeling about the car is a real testiment to how good the cars are when they FINALLY get it right. Just a shame they took so long to sort things out for you man. Good luck with the Polo :)

You obviously don't drive around Sydney enough... every corner sucks ATM up there. Wollongong is bad too, but they are upgrading most roads right now which is great :)

I see I'm not the only one who painted everything that can be unbolted in 5 minutes from the engine bay... looks sweet Bren :D good to see that even though Craig is no longer around, someone still managed to wear a bright green shirt :P And Azza you gotta tell me how you get the wax off between bits in the sportivo badge... I have 5 weeks to Toyota Fest ;)

absolute truth... I had a mate who had that done to him too in his old Pintara... he has since sold that car

Wei Wei I give you an A++ on that pic that is exactly the spot I am talking about. Most CAIs will rub there as they bounce around and vibrate no matter how much bracing you use.

as Bill said, only the Clutch type need to bed in...

until you hit bumps on the exit of corners and unweight the inside wheel... then you'll be wishing you had an LSD just like I am right now... :(

Caused by air molecules bouncing off the bodywork and charging it up. As mentioned can be sorted by either grounding yourself before you get out the car, of buying one of those grounding strips that run between the chassis and the ground.

Awesome Zee... gonna need to organise some proper photo shoots ;)

AEM has the same issue (as they all do I think) where they rub on the bodywork where the bend is that it exits the engine bay to go behind the spotlight. I've put a layer of padding with electrical tape over it to absorb the vibrations at that point.

helpful... need to register to see <_< can't see the point in registerring for a GC forum when I live down here, just to see some pics can they be trasferred across? pretty please

From what I know there are a couple that have it done :) one being the ex Leanne Tander (nee Ferrier) car this thread may be of interest... http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...c=6924&st=0

there's one in planning ;)

Understand completely what you are saying but the reason I bought this car over the WRX and the S15 I was looking at at the same time was I was guaranteed this thing hadn't already been run through the mill... all the money spent was going to a purpose, not repairing everything along the way ;)

spotted the odd one out... the green Ford Festiva nugget in the back :P

Bren, it looks like the switch point is @ ~5600 RPM the green line is power and the blue line torque I dare say they would have reached close to 415hp had they gone to the 9000 rpm that the car is capable of.

I can attest to that too I've spent roughly $4000 on my car aftermarket and it's starting to open a few eyes on the track. Last time out I put an ST185 celica to shame. I was holding off a series 6 RX7 and passed a series 4 RX7 down the straight. With another ~$4000 to be put into track tyres, brakes, clutch, flywheel and LSD there's still plenty of potential there too ;) I'm predicing at least a 1:13 around Wakfield Park when that is done :D It doesn't take much to be spent, it just needs to be spent in the right places ;)

You are allowed to use them @ twilight due to poor visibility ;)

Danz has the hamster trademarked :P ;)

man Dave that little plastic bit made a huge difference to the curves. The torque hole between cams was eccentuated severly there

considering the 9th gen guys are in the US and you still have to get the thing shipped over, probably not...

just a reminder... this is tomorrow night people :)

for that part even if you got it from d2 in the box i suggest you to go to repco and find the replacement bolt in high tensile steel. i do not know if d2 changed their production of this part but previously was not true steel and would break and you know you need to do up the front sway bar tight OK, 1st question why does that section need to be done up THAT tight, it needs to be tight but not overly so, you'll just end up damaging the thread on the insert? There is also the fact that the strut itself will turn in the sleave negating the purpose for having done up those bolts so tight to begin with. i sold my d2 a few years ago to a friend and later one of his fronts were leaking. for your information inside 1 year warranty you get it replaced free but outside would cost upwards of $150 per shock I was planning of buying a set of spare inserts once the warranty is up so I can have 1 set good while the other gets rebuilt, and so on... ;) $150 for an insert isn't that much to pay... better then a whole new kit anyway

that isn't a good thing Sunny... soon you'll have 2 females talking back at you...

the chamber is actually the same size (or at least pretty close), it just looks massive because of the HUGE tips on it. I was comparing them while I was at Just Jap getting my suspension fixed.