Tony Prodigy

https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B07NNT1JTR/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That is very disappointing. If Toyota want to shoot themselves in the foot like that then consumers will shop elsewhere. There are still plenty of alternatives out there. The battery degradation and the cost to replace it will render these cars junk after they've expired. Once the depreciation sets in after 5-10 years, who is going to spend 10K on a car only worth 5K ? It's absolutely ludicrous. Cars will become another throw away item after the battery packs up. Have Toyota even bothered to think about this ? There's no way i would buy one not knowing if the battery will last 5 or more years. What an expensive gamble, and this is only the battery we're talking about. What about the other bits of hardware that can and will fail over time. Some people are living in a fantasy bubble about electric cars and forget that these are not a DIY vehicle which contain highly complex parts within a complicated electrical system. The tech is way too advanced for the average punter and when it goes glitchy what do you do then ?? I'll give you one guess. This is why I'm keeping my Aurion as long as possible.

I've never heard of BYD. But that car looks amazing ! It will be interesting to see how these will fit in our market and how much it will cost. Zero emissions, of course, but it will still need the coal fired power stations to provide the juice it needs. If we shut down all the coal fired power stations and rely purely on renewables, you may find many of these stuck on a road somewhere unable to charge. This is the biggest problem facing the electric car industry. We need a stable base load of power and when the sun doesn't shine or the wind doesn't blow, it's no good to anyone. So what is the solution ? Nobody really knows unfortunately. It's all speculation.

Just remember this: Righty Tighty- Lefty Loosey and you'll never go wrong, until you get a reverse thread, then you'll be cursing Gas fittings tend to be these so you have nothing to worry about generally with cars. Car looks amazing mate ! Good practice maintenance washing is the key to keeping it looking its best. Always top up your coatings and it will make it easy to keep clean, also resist environmentally contamination.

That can be pretty frustrating. I've been there too. There isn't too much emphasis on Australian delivered cars so much so that the publishers of these will always bias their publications towards the American Market. Thankfully we do have an abundance of online information to get us through. Always handy to have Torx sets. German cars have these all over the place and have invested in many different sets over the years. SWMBO is a common theme around here too By the way, you inspired me to seek out a fuel disconnect tool. I found one on Amazon that was too good to resist. I ended up getting two sets with free delivery for under $20. Won't have to use my fingers anymore

Are you saying that one headlight isn't getting power or both ? Fuse ok. and If so, then your headlight relay could be bad. If you turn on your headlights via the stalk then you can measure 12v DC across the pin socket which powers the relay. If you pull the relay, it will show you the pin designation for the coil which energises the relay and pulls the normally open contacts in. Just orient the relay to the socket and you should be able to figure out the power supply pins in which to measure. If you have 12V DC, then your relay is bad. You can also feel it 'click' when you insert it back into the socket. You must have the headlights activated first to perform this test. If you don't feel the click despite having the 12V, then it's a bad relay.

I tend to agree mostly, but a dash protector is the only thing I would consider because of our harsh climate. Summers are brutal and direct sunlight (UV) is very damaging if you don't take preventative measures to protect certain bits. Bonnet protectors and the like are pretty much obsolete with the advent of plastic film protection (PPF) and the higher end products have a self healing capability when struck with stones. Great to have but can be pricey to install.

Haha, good guess then. That thread should help then.

It looks like the Toyota quick release mechanism is slightly different to what I thought it was, but the idea is the same though. My BMW fuel line has two outer tangs, I should've explained it a bit better before, but it is essentially the same where you need to push these in to release the locking mech. The Toyota has four inner tabs which need to pushed to release the line. Definitely much easier with a special tool. What engine do you have there ? It's hard to see from the pic. Can you upload a few more pics so we can get a good look at the situation ? I doubt the knock sensor would be fitted in the coolant path though, so I couldn't say for sure if this is the source of the leak you have, also not knowing engine type. It could most likely be a head gasket issue. If you want to find the coolant leak, it would be better to pressurise the system if you already haven't removed any cooling system components. I found this article, assuming you have a 4 cyl, but it is interesting nonetheless. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/toyota-4-cyl-with-head-gasket-problems-common.124766/

The departments don't even talk to each other. That is very disappointing Adam. With the fragility of those dashboards, I'd be inclined to cover it with a dash protector anyway. You just need to keep the direct sunlight off it I think. Not sure about heat though. I have a dash protector in my 50, not that the dash is an issue for these cars, but I do prefer having it shielded with the addition of a windscreen shade. Yours doesn't look too bad anyway compared to others, so you may just get away with it. I'd even go as far as searching a clean one out from a wrecker. Chances are you could get one that has already been replaced.

Good to know actually. I assumed there would be no goop from the factory as the rubber gasket has a bit of meat in it. But I agree in hindsight looking at the picture.

All good mate. Glad it worked out for you. Cheers

I am flabbergasted. They put wheel covers over alloy wheels now ?? I've never heard of this before 😀 Can't help with part numbers, but you can very easily contact your local friendly stealership and ask them. I'm still waiting for someone from Lander Toyota Blacktown to get back to me about a new door handle. It's only been around 6 months, but I live in hope..

🤣🤣🤣😜

Hello and welcome Paul. Hope you find your stay here enriching and enjoyable as it has been for me and the others. Cheers

Have you tried using two small flat bladed screwdrivers ? All you need to do is put even pressure on either side of the release mechanism and push in. It can be done. Position one screwdriver in your left hand also clasping the feed line preceding the junction then one in the other after the junction and simultaneously push both screwdrivers in to release the mechanism. I have a quick release fuel line system in my BMW and I have even done it with my finger tips as the release mechanism has a slight turn out which can enable it to be done by hand. But in your case, if yours is like what's in the video, then you will need to do as I mentioned. If you feel more comfortable with a special tool, by all means seek one out. I'm not aware of any specific tool for your vehicle to be honest. All you need to do really is be able to push the spring loaded inner circumference mechanism in to release the metal tube from it's locking ridge point.

That is a strange one Peter. All I can think is that the power consumption drawn by the device is interfering with the lock circuit. It may have an excess current draw which is in turn affecting how the central locking functions. Have you any other phones you can try and see if this happens with others or does it only happen with the Note 10 ?

Nope. The new rubber gasket is pliable enough to form a seal. Just make sure the mating surfaces are very clean. Use brake cleaner to clean the surfaces, fit the gasket to the cover as well as the others and then torque it to spec. You should no problems after this. Overtightening can damage the gasket so find out what torque specs are required and be prepared before you tackle it. Do it once, do it right. It's good to have a selection of torque wrenches. You can get 1/4' drive, 3/8" drive and 1/2" drive. 3/4" drive is over kill and almost never used for a car. Use the most appropriate sized one for the range of torque required and torque offered by the tool itself. They can be gotten for fairly cheap and will be good enough for DIY. You're lucky you're in Queensland as Trade Tools have great tools. I have made many purchases from them including socket sets and various torque wrenches. They have great sales from time to time so look them up and subscribe to their mailing list so you get updates on the sales. Cheers

Hey Chippps. Using RTV sealant on a worn gasket is only a temporary solution. There is more than one item that has the potential to leak on the rocker cover. There is obviously the main gasket for the cover's perimeter, but there is also the plug seals and bolt seals. This comes in a kit and It's better to just remove and replace all the tired old rubber seals and replace them with fresh new ones. No RTV is needed. Tighten to the correct torque so you don't crush the gaskets and you'll have a leak free top end. This is a reference for what you'd need for this https://www.onlineautoparts.com.au/products/Rocker-Cover-Gasket-Kit-Corolla-AE102-AE112-AE93-AE96-1992-2001-4cyl-7AFE-1-8L-Toyota-JN904K/ZPN-13371 You can seek out the kit from wherever you prefer. These three should be done by a competent person. If you are not confident you can do any of these I would suggest a good mechanic. If you have the necessary tools and equipment and feel knowledgeable and capable, then by all means give it a go. Brakes are an area I would recommend be done by someone with some experience. You can of course watch a youtube videos and learn, but this is up to you. We're not sure of your level of DIY'ship and what tools or knowledge you possess, so in saying this, in reality, saying and doing are two different things.

No worries. Did you have to remove the glove box lid or did you have to reach right under there ? Can you upload a few photos so others may find this thread helpful.

After doing some more checking, it seems it may in fact be on the passenger side. I don't know why there is so much misinformation on the net but I was able to download a copy of your user manual for the Australian cars and the image shows it to be on the passenger side. PG 270. I do recall my 10 series fuse box being on the driver's side and didn't think this would change all that much to the next model. It was a little flap you opened and there they were. I think they used a universal wiring loom for all Ravs after the 10 series because it's on the left side regardless of where the steering wheel is. See attached. I've also uploaded a copy of the user manual too. I'm guessing you don't have one. download.pdf

That is a little surprising to hear, but I guess it's always possible for issues to occur with so much tech crammed into these cars nowadays. Not what you'd expect from an expensive car though. I guess they may still have some teething problems. I'd be curious to hear what the issue was. Maybe there was moisture ingress into a plug somewhere ?? Give it few days to dry and I bet it will all work ok.

Hi Matt, If it's a left hand drive car, the fuse box will almost certainly be on that side and vice versa for right drive. I used to own a 10 series Rav many years ago and it's interior fuse box was on the right side. It's a standard thing they tend to do.

I wonder how much just the motor would cost new from Toyota. Surely not 3k as mentioned. I would've thought this would include labour and potentially some programming. Even so I cannot see how they could justify that amount. It's just an actuator motor.

A traditional bulb tester can't be used for sensor testing as the bulb only tests continuity in an electrical circuit. To test a sensor you'll need a multimeter and some back probes to be able to access the tiny pins in the sockets. You'll be measuring voltage output and resistance of the sensor and then compare your values to the manufacturer specifications. This will then determine if its good or bad. Have a read of this. It may help. https://mzwmotor.com/faulty-automotive-sensor-testing/