Tony Prodigy

I'm guessing if the O-ring isn't damaged in any way I would say that it could be reused but if you have new ones on hand It would make sense to just replace it. I have a small o-ring kit with an assortment of sizes and just need to find out if they are compatible.

The poor guy got torn to shreds in the comments regarding the use of Kerosene. I've not got any idea on a chemistry level why but they are referring to inner seals what not reacting to the kero making them brittle, which is probably why diesel is the commonly preferred 'solvent'. Desludging is messy and time consuming not to mention somewhat costly. Would be better if everyone changed their oil more frequently instead of following the stupid log book service. What a false economy that is !! "Extended oil service intervals to reduce running costs"....🙄 Only when it's starts blowing white smoke and your engine is crying out is when you will start feeling the pinch.

Thanks for the video Ash. It's content like this which helps prevent others from making stupid mistakes. It demonstrates how important it is to do careful research and preparation. It's a big job, not impossible, can be daunting to the uninitiated that's for sure. If you can follow the correct procedure you can't make any mistakes. Never knew about the O-ring in the water pump housing though. Did you replace you're one Ash ? He also used Dielectric grease to condition the O-ring. I wonder if that is something the factory use and what type of O-ring, Nitrile or Viton. I'm going to guess Nitrile as the old one was black and the Viton is the upgrade to this. Would this be correct ? Note how the tensioner pulley bolt is a reverse thread. So if you're going to remove it in the same manner as the water pump pulley or the other idler pulleys, there's going to be a lot of cursing when you can't figure out why it won't budge lol. I also like that chain strap vice grip tool to lock and hold the pump pulley. Gotta see about getting one of those babies !!

I just came across this video and I thought of Ol' Sludgy. I thought this could be another great way to de sludge. Probably wouldn't Kerosene but diesel instead. The process he uses has some merit though do you think ?

Hi Jayden and welcome to the forum. Do you mean the MAF sensor was relocated. I'm guessing this is what you mean as this would be the only device in the air intake system. Was this a DIY install or did a shop do it for you ? The positioning of the MAF sensor is very important to getting an accurate measure of incoming air so the computer can calculate the correct amount of fuel. The MAF sensor measures air weight in grams per second and air temperature and if either of those two are off then the ECU may command a leaner or a richer mixture, which explains the heavy petrol smell. I'm no tuning expert but, If it's possible to put the sensor back to it's original position that would most likely cure the issue unless there is some other underlying problem. But if it was fine before the pod install, then my best bet would be the MAF positioning. Posting up some pics can help if that's possible.

So are the threaded versions all the same hole size/thread size ? This is what I'm unsure about. Camry 4cyl Vs Aurion V6 Vs Avalon V6 Vs Corolla etc..

Yes Ashley, I wouldn't disagree with you. I have always improvised in the past and as I get older, I guess, I've developed a love for nicer things and appreciate how good quality parts/tools are made. Being OCD (shock Horror ) and having good equipment makes the experience more pleasurable without the occasional hiccups and frustrations that can go with servicing a car. I like to work as tidy and organised as possible and limit frustration, so having the right gear certainly gives you that edge. One thing that I always dreamed of having was a car hoist. Wouldn't that be something ! Maybe some day If I ever get to build my dream garage/mancave.

Just make sure it suits your engine. Not sure if the Corolla engine has a common thread/hole size. The listing should mention what vehicle it specifically suits.

Not sure there are too many graphic designers on here. Probably best to ask someone in the game.

Hey guys, This little device caught my eye some time back and had been trying to justify getting it and I finally decided, why not. What I like about it is the fact that it screws into the oil filler neck of your engine, which holds it in place and has a rubber seal to stop leakage. I've lost count how many times I've tried to fill my car with oil and bump the funnel and it tips to the side and sometimes getting messy. Enough of that. It was reasonably priced and nicely made too. Quality is excellent and it came well packaged in very decent box. Got it on Amazon prime. Been finding some great deal on Amazon prime lately. I tend to swing between Ebay and Amazon to compare on pricing and shipping and it seems that Amazon is almost always outdoing Ebay. Happy Days ! I don't mind paying for proper tools that will help make my job of servicing more cleanly, efficiently and easier. More to come

Ya Ahla

Happy to help Ahmed. If you lived near me I'd try and help but unfortunately you're all the way over in S.A. If you have a socket set or some spanners, it is a pretty simple job. Disconnect the ground cable on the battery, wrap the lead with a cloth and then all you do is undo 4 bolts under the seat. There are two on each track. I think it's 14mm. Once they are out, lean the seat back to locate the seat sensor plug, disconnect this the fold the seat forward and lift it out. The seat pivot may just need some dry lube or something or if it's the plastic shell that fixes to the back, then a spray with CRC Dry Glide. It contain PTFE and will not run or leave a greasy residue. It will lubricate any plastic on plastic nuisance noises. Here's a good opportunity to get handy with your car, learn something new and save money. DIY isn't so bad once you get used to it. Most of us here are DIY types of guys, and yet most of us live very far apart so we aren't able to help with hands on, only yap about it here 😁

So are you saying the LH light is a lot dimmer than the right hand bulb when the headlight switch is on ?? The bulb can only go in one way so not sure how the wrong filament can light up. With your lights on "parker" yes the lower filament will light up and when you press the brake then the brighter filament will. My guess is you probably have the wrong wattage globe. Are you able to check the wattage ? I'd also check to see if you have a loose earth cable in there for the tail light assembly.

I suspect you're not handy with tools ? If you're not able to or have the means to do it, just ask a friend perhaps or take it to someone else. I think Toyota would be a bad choice because their labour rate is expensive and they can spend 2 hrs on it and not fix the problem and still charge you.

I don't think I agree with that statement. The car is only 4 years old and I've never heard that one before. I wonder if any other Corolla owners here have had a similar issue with their seats.. Maybe remove just one seat and investigate it a little more. At least when you have it out, you will have more room to get a closer look. There could be something that could be done, unfortunately it's very difficult to diagnose the issue online without seeing or hearing the problem. I know the seat back can have some play in the hinges, but excessive play is ridiculous for a fairly new car. I would also rate the build quality as pretty good being a Corolla. Something doesn't seem right.

Hi Ahmed and welcome to the forum. I'd remove the seats and carefully inspect for whatever might be loose and go from there. Disconnect your car battery first so you don't trigger the Airbag light. Otherwise you'll have to get that code cleared.

Not too sure. I would believe the variable resistor would be for varying the frequency of the intermittency but the actual relay is more a physical item that I doubt could fit in the stalk. I could be wrong. If the stalk isn't too much, just get one, plug it in and see if it works. Ask the wrecker if they have a return policy, that way if it's no good to you, just return it. As for which Echo would have it, I'm not sure. The wrecker should be able to assist you there. Let us know how you go.

Your welcome. I have a copy of the Factory Aurion Workshop manual on CD at home (I'm at work at the moment). When I get home I'll take another look and confirm receiver location. I am pretty sure from memory that it's in the same spot as the 50 series. I can't see why they relocate it either. I think they put it on the outer side of the rear beaver panel behind the bumper so it doesn't get any interference from the multitude of electronic gadgetry in the engine bay and interior. You really don't need to point and shoot so to speak. If you are within the given radius, it will work, even if it's it your pocket while pressing the button. I'll post up more accurate info later. Cheers

Hi Garry, When you say that you're right next to the car and it fails to open, is this everywhere or just a specific location ? I have had a similar issue on a previous D-Max and my present Colorado work vehicles whereby when I am parked along the one way street parallel to the train station, my cars would fail to lock via remote and no matter what angle I tried, nothing. I had to insert the key and manually lock the doors. I would think that all modern cars use the same or similar type of keyless entry, albeit with different frequencies of course and I believe there can be some kind of interference which is blocking the signal. I don't think you have a problem with the system itself to be honest. If it opens from 15m away and you have new batteries, then it would be safe to assume that it's fine. Another thing you can try is check and clean the receiver. If I remember correctly, it is positioned behind the rear bumper. You can also check the connections. If these check out, then I'd just put it down to interference of some kind. Hard to say what it is but we are being bombarded with EMF radiation which is probably what's causing it. There are plenty of EMF related videos on youtube.

Nice work Big Mike. Headlights look great. Re apply the sealant monthly. This should prevent UV attack.

Yes, good idea. The more you put on the better it lasts. It's only headlights so I'd even go nuts and apply it monthly.

That would be a very frustrating moment, with plenty of expletives from me lol !! Great Idea. A Pictorial template that way you can marry up all the bolts to the correct holes. Another excellent idea. 👌

It looks so much fresh with those new headlights. Definitely a labour of love. Love the attention to detail. One of my personal habits when undertaking similar jobs myself. You need to be aware of what you're doing so you don't induce any damages in the process.

I'm really happy for you man. It's nice to have friends who can help in these situations. Glad you're happy with the tyres too. +1 for the extra jack stands. Makes rotation much easier.

I couldn't agree more Ash. This should be the doctrine one must follow for a trouble free repair/service. 😲😲😲 Very easy to get it wrong because your mind is focused more on removing said item and the momentary inattention can have serious consequences. One needs to do the proper research first before diving into these modern engine repairs. The old cars were simple and repairs could've been done blindfolded. Not these days unfortunately. I like your cardboard box idea too. Very novel approach.