Tony Prodigy

I thought this would be a standard feature on all or most modern Toyotas. My Prodigy has this lock feature as standard and it's a 2012 car. As soon as you set off, all 4 doors lock automatically. Admittedly, I didn't know it had such a feature until I took the car out for its first test drive before purchase and was pleasantly surprised. Nice touch Toyota. On other cars I drive, I always lock the doors before I set off, so it's just a habit I've formed and if your car isn't able to be programmed as such, such learn yourself instead of relying on tech to do it for you. You put your seat belt on before you drive off right ? Add the door lock to your sequence and your good.

Looks like there's hope after all !! The V6 is way too good to kill off. How dare they !! I seriously hope they've cured the horrendous front wheel torque steering issue that has plagued past models. I once drove a friends 2nd Gen Kluger FWD and was driving down a local highway in the gutter lane and thought I'd floor it to feel the V6 power. This was before I bought the Aurion and had never sampled the 2GR-FE until then. Anyway, when I floored it, it violently pulled hard left and it freaked me out nearly mounting the curb. The weird thing is the the steering wheel hadn't turned as far to the left as the car actually did. Wow, I thought. I looked at my mate and said, W.T.@$#^ was that ??? He looked at me and laughed saying it's normal. They all torque steer when you gun them. Right there and then I swore never to buy one and wound up with the Aurion. I would consider the new Gen Kluger someday as an upgrade if and when the Aurion goes to car heaven, but I have no plans to sell it. I love my Aurion too much.

I think this will be the wisest choice as your mechanic will take proper care and tailor his service to suit you compared to the dealership. You just don't know who will be working on your car and what type of work ethic they have. My biggest bug bear is that every time I'd have my company vehicle serviced at a given place, it would always come back with a mark or two here and there and you can see where the morons put the wrenches, spanners on the tops in the engine bay scratching the paint or the plastics, not to mention oil drips and drops not wiped up etc etc. Hopeless they are. One time the idiots forgot to put the air cleaner housing back on and I was driving home with an induction noise so loud It prompted me to pull over to investigate. I thought they put a performance kit in it lol.. [Rant Over] It really shows lack of workmanship and pride and This is why I don't take my personal car to anyone. I much prefer to do it myself.

Nice one Ash. It's excellent value actually and excellent oil too, but it's a shame they don't make it in a 6 lt. I suspect the marketing boffins rubbed their hands in a fiendish manner when it was time to market as most tend to do so If you need 6.1lt for example, like we do, You then have to purchase 2 x 5 lt or an extra 1 lt, which then makes it a foregone conclusion. I hate when they do this. I do however see my BMW oil is on special. CASTROL EDGE 5W40 A3/B4 SN 6L ENGINE OIL 3414527 $64.99 down from $79.99 There's also a recall notice at the top of the page for Tectaloy coolant. Product Recall! - Tectaloy UNLMTD Coolant Concentrate - Green 1L and 5L, Red 5L and Blue 5L. CLICK HERE for more info https://www.productsafety.gov.au/recall/itw-australia-pty-ltd-tectaloy-unlmtd-coolant-concentrate-green-1l-and-5l-red-5l-and-blue-5l

I shudder the thought any time the Govt start meddling in our affairs. It never ends. The take up of electric vehicles is inevitable as it is being rammed down our throats as will the other alternative of Hydrogen power. I don't disagree with either, but I am tired of Govt interference in our lives. I say let the market decide. Remember when we had a car manufacturing industry ? Do you also remember the Govt imposed a luxury vehicle tax on imported luxury cars in order to protect our local market ? Even though we don't have a car manufacturing market to protect anymore, they are still imposing the tax at 33%. This is ludicrous and you can forgive us for being cycnical of the Govt.

Hi Joel and welcome to the forum. I'm a little perplexed as to why your trusted local mechanic would have you ask for advice to enable him to do his job. Isn't he aware of rudimentary servicing ? Very strange. To be honest, and I don't have a Camry as such, but there isn't really all that much that goes wrong with any modern Toyota if it is taken care of and not abused. If you drive it sensibly and keep it well serviced, it should give you trouble free motoring for decades. Fact. A good bit of advice we like to offer here, and this is very important, is NOT to follow the stupid book service when it comes to oil changes. The book calls for oil to be done every 15K which is way too long. We advise to do it between 8k-10k max. Use only fully synthetic oil. Your choice. I've been using Nulon 5W-30 since day one of ownership and have had no issues. My engines' internals are still like new with no staining or sludging. This is why you must do regular oil services. Oil is cheap so there isn't much excuse for this. The longer you leave the oil, the worse it gets and you could affect oil pressure, which will chew your rod bearings for breakfast and then your engine will brick itself. You could follow the log book service for all the other items, such as, coolant, spark plugs, transmission etc, but don't follow the oil service interval guide. It's a trap that many fall into and when your car starts blowing white smoke because it's all sludged up, then it will cost you plenty to bring it back if it already hasn't done the damage. Hope this helps. Cheers

Thanks for that Ash. I forgot there was a setting within hotmail, now outlook, where the setting icon kind of blends in and you have to have a keen eye to spot it lol. I managed to get in and figure it out eventually. I had to add toyota@ownersclub.com to the "safe senders and domain" list found within the "Junk Email' option. Thankfully, no more toyota owners club messages are popping up as junk. My inbox comprises of two folders, one "focused and one "other". They're coming into the "other folder" and that's good enough for me. Previously I was right clicking on the message and then clicking onto "security options" > "not junk", thinking this would pull the actual domain out from the junk status. No good as it turned out. You have to physically type the domain address into the option mentioned above. I've had my hotmail account from day one and although it's gone through various incarnations over the years, the client it is now is actually very good as it is an outlook based platform. I'm not really techy, but I find it to be satisfactory. I'm not sure, but I don't think you can register anymore new "hotmail" accounts either. They're using @live.com now. I also have one of these accounts because some registrations actually rejected "hotmail" and so I had to create a @live.com account to circumvent the restriction. I still actively use both these and a few others I also have. Everyone should probably have a gmail account right ? Particularly to be able to back up your phone contents/contact list etc. I found that out the hard way, when I smashed a Galaxy Note phone which contained ALL my contacts and Mr dumb dumb here never had it backed up 😜 I had to start from scratch again. I have Norton anti virus internet security on my home PC as well as C cleaner. Previously was with Trend and thought I'd try Norton as they had free Cloud storage service available for no extra cost. So far so good. As for programs etc, I have found filehippo.com to be a pretty decent source too. No viruses either.

Happy Days !!

This should help dispel any myths. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-3rd-gen-2010-2015/913566-rx-350-2010-engine-swap-advice-urgent-3.html I'd strip the 2GR-FE engine down to it's long block and transfer everything else over from the 2GR-FSE, ie, throttle bodies, intake manifold, engine mounts etc. You're mechanic should know what to do. I also believe the 2GR-FSE had a bit more HP than the 2GR-FE, but the 2GR-FE should go straight in.

Here's the bayonet version. Just saw it and thought of what you said. https://www.amazon.com.au/ARES-56023-Compatible-Spill-Free-Applications/dp/B07VZR729G/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_ci_mcx_mr_hp_d_7?pd_rd_w=muqXG&pf_rd_p=c47e427c-8630-47af-be61-6abe8fda1474&pf_rd_r=V6GMZ7H2ZRX944FRADR3&pd_rd_r=f92f7158-7e2d-4ae7-bf80-d22b285e1c9a&pd_rd_wg=6xK4g&pd_rd_i=B07VZR729G&psc=1

Wow, I am very surprised the dog bone mount has failed. This item should last 10+ years at least. I'm sure the good people at Bursons will make it right. Hope it all goes well Lana. Cheers

Yep and perhaps a possible new member who may join at some point and knock it right out of the park !

It may be a good idea to just pull the door card off the passenger side and inspect all the wiring section including the connectors. If the door switch doesn't feel right, then maybe this is what's causing the system to play up. Is it possible the grease had hardened off and the contacts are playing silly buggers ? If possible, dismantle the switch and give it a refresh with new dielectric grease on the contacts. That will ensure no moisture or corrosion can set in. Sometimes working the switch over and over several times can clean the contacts to a degree, but unless you use some kind of contact cleaner or pull it apart to clean and lubricate, you can be be certain it will stay reliable enough. These cars are starting to show their age now and despite an almost impeccable reliability history, some gremlins will start creeping in from time to time and even for myself having a 2012 car, am waiting for that day too.

I have had this nagging issue when I receive my alerts via email (hotmail), that they are almost always flagged as junk despite numerous times, marking them "not junk" Anyone have any idea how to permanently fix this please ? It is getting really frustrating. Cheers guys

Roger that

I'm patiently waiting for the day someone posts "My Million KLM Toyota" Now that would be something !👌

Strange situation for sure Ash. Did you work on the car before this happened, something electrically related ? I think, with these cars and other modern cars is that if you leave any or all the windows down, lock the car, the onboard system sees this and after an elapsed time it will perform the routine security feature and close all the windows for you. There's a position sensor on each window and this is what enables the computer to perform its checks and programme accordingly. On a hot day recently, when at work, I thought to open all the windows on my Colorado so it doesn't turn into a pressure cooker and walked away. (Car is safe at work) I then came back a short time later to get something from the back and noticed all the windows had shut. Damn, I thought !! These modern cars are too bloody smart. Can't even keep a single window cracked open to let the hot air out. At least you know you don't have a faulty window motor or snags in the regulator. Modern power window motors are quite robust compared to the older generation of cars from the 70s and 80s.. Nowadays it's more likely to be system related. Funny how things change.. It looks like you had a slight glitch in the system and what you did was able to cure it. You have to love YouTube in times like this, but as demonstrated one man's solution won't always be another man's cure. Glad to see you got it sorted regardless. I haven't come across anything like that before that's for sure.

You're welcome buddy. Happy to help

Yes and understandably so. The connectors on the ECUs are well formed and have an excellent seal otherwise the factory wouldn't have them in a hostile environment such as the engine bay. Fuse boxes are well shielded too, so don't worry too much about that either. Incidental cleaning/pressure washing won't hurt anything unless you are deliberately trying to force the issue. With the O.P.'s engine, being older and having the spark plug leads instead of coil packs, those leads tend to shrink around where they seal on the top and you can get moisture enter the plug wells, which makes me extra cautious. It's not a big issue, but it will have you spending time correcting it if it does occur. If the square bits are such that you can wriggle them too much, I pop them out even and stuff a cloth into each hole and then wrap the ends of the leads in plastic. I didn't go into too much detail in relation to products and detailing method, as I suspect Chippps probably doesn't have the range of products as others would. Degreaser is one of many products I'd use, but for simplicity, his approach will be adequate all things considered. Perhaps after this Chippps may get the detailing bug as I did many, many years ago 🤪

Do you think Toyota would have a copyright on their Fonts ??

Hi Chippps. Modern engine electricals have plug seals in them so water ingress into these is not an issue like the old cars were. Just try not to be too vigorous around electricals. They will withstand a degree of washing and pressure washing if you have too. I have pressure cleaned many engine bays and the only thing I would really cover is the alternator and the spark plug leads on the top of the engine. Just place a plastic bag over the alternator so no chemicals or water can enter the windings inside the openings. For the spark plug leads, just check to make sure they are forming a seal on the square bits, otherwise put a bit of vaseline around the edges to help seal them against the metal. That's pretty much it. If you happen to get water in the spark plug wells, just blow the water out with compressed air or something similar, or push a dry cloth down in there to soak up the water.. Spray the degreaser and agitate with a stiff bristle brush (paint brush will be fine) to help loosen the grease/oil reside and then wash, preferably with a high pressure cleaner if you have one. Repeat the process for better results. After A degrease you can wash with car washing soap as degreaser will leave an ugly, dry residue. I also recommend a spraying of Aerospace 303, once it's all dry, to nourish and keep all the plastics and rubber conditioned. Degreaser is good for what it suggests but can be harsh on softer components. Any rubber treatment will be ok, but Aerospace 303 is the best stuff for this.

That's interesting. I'm not up to speed on the specs as yet but I do like quality products. I have had a cheapo dash cam and it was rubbish and have since stopped using it. If I am to get a Blackvue I will go the whole hog and install both front and rear and have the power back up so it can record when parked. This is what I don't understand too much about. Have to do a bit more research. Thanks for the heads up. I like the faster fps as it's the finer detail one really relies on when you really need it. Big objects are a given and almost all cameras will show these well but the finer detail including night vision are two very different beasts. I'll read up some more when I get a chance. Thanks

That's very interesting too. But I can say that I have had issues with a press button keyfob in my 2017 D-Max and had no dash cam in that. Some kind of dead zone wasn't enabling the signal for some reason. It wasn't all the time, only at specific locations and one of those was Station St Blacktown. I'm considering going down the Blackvue route too. The 900 looks promising. Does the DR750 have 4K ? (HEVC compression)

Haha, you're right. It's been a long while since purchasing mine you prompted me to dig mine out and take a look for myself. Yep. Upon checking I can confirm this. I also purchased a Genuine Toyota gasket some time back as it was going cheap so I had this in the box with the NPW contents. I also noticed the cardboard for the NPW gasket has had the sticker carefully razor bladed off. Not sure why, but I'll be using the Toyota Gasket anyway when it's time to replace my pump. Refresh my memory. Where does the larger O-ring go ?

NIce improv Ash. Do the threads match by any chance ? Looks like a good fit. Also noticed your engine cover is different to the 50 series in that mine doesn't have the extra badging "DUAL VVT-i" My OCD also tells me that the cover has been treated a little hastily evidenced by the grazing on the corners. I know you wouldn't have done this because you love your car, but I'll put money that it was some lackey at a garage or some rough back yarder. Why anyone would work this way baffles me. How hard is it to pop it off and place it ? Does it need to be grazed like that ? This is why I shudder the thought of taking my cars to any mechanic shop. [Rant over]