Tony Prodigy

Take it out, place in the bin and buy a universal head unit that is comprehendible. Dealers can be as useful as tits on a bull, so I wouldn't even bother. There are plenty of high quality aftermarket units to choose from.

I've never seen a dipstick break ever, I have to say. Looks like someone may have leaned over it whilst trying to reach the back of the motor and have successfully snapped it despite it being fixed with a bracket. Is it also possible the bracket bolt was missing ?

That's a good question. I had a 95 RAV 4 years ago and it too didn't have intermittent wipers for some reason. I was going to do this very thing too but never got around to it. I think there will be some auto electrics involved here as the intermittent section is governed by a timer relay and I don't believe it resides in the stalk itself. If I find out something more, I'll post back.

😄😄😄 Welcome to the forum Robert. A picture tells a thousand words, and I too, when I saw the bank building in the background, I had to chuckle too. 4 wheel driving can be quite an expensive affair and it's good that you can bring some of your 4WD expertise here too. I know nothing about it, but am always interested in what others are doing. Glad you have it sorted and are enjoying it too. I have to say, I can't even remember the last time I ever saw a stand alone bank building. All the best mate and safe motoring

I only just noticed this post. It seems like there is something common with condensate entering the cabin and not exiting like it should. It is possible the drain hose could be kinked somewhere or is blocked. In the most extreme case, it could have fallen out all together. Although I don't have a Kluger, I would safely assume that the Aurion and most other Toyotas would have a similar set up. You need to gain access to the evaporator and take a good look around to see if anything is unusual. Get some photos if you can as this can help others see what it is. If you can reach the hose, detach it and blow it out and then re-attach it. Not sure if there should be a clamp on it as it isn't under pressure. It's only a gravity drain and usually the rubber hose is snug enough on the drain spout without any additional reinforcement required. If you fell the need to clamp it, I'd do it too just for added peace of mind while you're in there. You can also get to the end of the hose from underneath. You will see one that dangles down around the rear of the engine. You could poke it with something rigid yet flexible, like a zip tie to see if there is any sludge in there. Be interested to hear the outcome.

Haha yeah, I found that out the hard way, which motivated me to search out better ones. All those pressed aluminium ones are rubbish and will break. Not even worth your time. You get what you pay for. Pay a bit extra and it will last a lifetime I say. I'm liking that one on Amazon too. It's also a machined tool, not pressed. I remember the day I used my OMIK tool on my filter housing, admittedly was nervous because I was sure I was going to break it. My housing was on extremely tight (stupid me) and when I applied a Ton of force via my breaker bar, I heard a 'crack'. I despaired for a moment thinking, there you go, I've broken another tool and I've never going to get this damned thing off which is why I had a spare housing ready to go if it meant going Medieval on it. When I got in closer and realized the tool was ok and the crack was simply the housing letting go, I was thrilled !. Wow !! What a beast of a tool. If it can survive that much torque it has my utmost respect. Hats off to the guy who thought to make a magnificent, high quality tool. You just need to nip it to 25nm, not 2500nm like I did originally 😄

Did you message him ? I think he's avoiding International shipping like Europe, Asia and the Americas. I suspect if you contact him he may ship it to you being our Ozzie Neighbour. I think postage to N.Z. has become expensive too. The world has truly gone kooky.

If you have an Amazon prime account I'd get this one. https://www.amazon.com.au/Klick-Wrench-Limiting-Engines-Cartridge/dp/B08HHG3VY3/ref=sr_1_108?crid=3PLSWH6F0AN0Q&dchild=1&keywords=oil+filter+removal+tool+toyota&qid=1617646907&sprefix=oil+filter+removal+tool%2Caps%2C845&sr=8-108

The seller won't post it to NZ or is the system screwed ?

This would also give the opportunity to clean the areas not normally accessible. The way I look at it is that I can dedicate a whole bunch of time to doing this job and factoring in some cleaning detail as well. It's not a rush right ? I like to start early in the morning and if possible set the car up and start dismantling the easy stuff the evening before. Take plenty photos of the hose orientations including any wiring plugs/harness. I have a tendency to forget these days and my phone camera has become my best friend lately 🤪

Hi Salman, I think your idea is nice in theory, but in practise it may not be economically viable. Sure you will need the upgraded instrument cluster, then you will need someone with a device to set your original KLMS to it. That service may not be cheap, if you can find someone that is willing to do it as it is illegal to tamper with the speedo. I'd have a chat to the Toyota dealership and see what they have to say on the subject. I'm not sure they would even be willing to touch it. Who knows, maybe in the future you could even upgrade to a higher spec level Camry, a newer model even and that should have all the niceties you crave. All the best man

Yeah I know. Terrible thing to happen. If I ever needed a head unit installed, I would certainly do my research and qualify the person/company doing it first.

This is also something I'm bad at. Although in saying that, the last time I checked our Aurion, the tyre pressures were close to spot on and I hadn't checked them for months. My Colorado were low, because I noticed some tyre squeal going through a roundabout and it was frustrating me. They were all down to sub 30 PSI, no wonder. After correct tyre inflation my confidence in the corners increased dramatically

I resisted this one Ash. Had "other" expenditure to take care of first.

Hello Dave and welcome to the forum. I'd also be interested in seeing what car you have too. Had a quick look online and it looks like a nice vehicle. Please don't hesitate to share pictures and some stories when you have time.

I think it was an SUV type vehicle or RAV 4 he was working on Ash for those spark plugs. Is the cowl also removal on the Aurion too ?? I've never bothered to check actually. My car will need spark plugs at some point too, including the coolant flush, so it will be worthwhile investing in some extra knowledge and gadgets lol..

Hey Craig. Have you seen your curtain ever work before ? Maybe someone has tampered with it. I'd check the wiring in the boot ( I think the plug is in there, not 100% sure as I've never had to look). Check and see if there is a seperate fuse for it before calling the switch. The switch rarely goes bad because it doesn't get that much usage to be honest. If you have access to a multi meter, you could test continuity on the contacts if you can pop it out. If you find the power plug for the shade, you can also test for 12V DC across the pins while the ignition is "on" and have someone depressing the switch. Let us know how you go.

Hi George, Excellent product actually. Not only do you get the benefit of UV resistance, but the protection from stone chips etc, which is my biggest peeve ! Once they are chipped or sand blasted by those Neanderthal truck drivers it's too late. They always swerve into the dirty side of the road spitting all that fine debris all over your beloved vehicle, and so I say, yes please. I'll certainly keep this in mind and get a few for several vehicles I own. Thanks

No problem. If you get Toyota to do it, be careful what oil they use. Insist on Fully Synthetic oil 5W-30. I have been using Nulon and my engine still looks brand new inside even after nearly 130K on the ODO. Penrite also make an excellent 5W-30 too. Have a read of this.

Hey BigMike, if you have access to a machine polisher, this would be the best way to attack these. If not, what the guys said would be fine too. I have had in the past, just used some Menzerna FG400 with a microfibre applicator and this seemed to work ok, but when I got the big guns out (FLEX XC3401) it made mince meat of it with outstanding clarity. I have a few different types of professional grade polish due to my obsession with detailing and the FG400 cuts through like butter and gives a pretty decent finish despite it's harsh cutting grade. Once you're satisfied with the result, you must apply sealant as this will stop the UV rays from trying to consume them all over again. I plan to treat all mine with a ceramic coating when the time comes to do the whole car. I'll do a write up when this happens.

That's the video I mentioned in a previous thread. The car care nut is good value.

Hi Mark and welcome to the forum mate. Let me start by saying, Oh boy, I think your car has either had a long history of late oil changes or you have been following the stupid book service which calls for oil changes every 15K !!! If you say you have also gone over this by an extra 2K, you are certainly asking for trouble. The 2GR-FE has many tight tolerances and other systems within the engine which rely on good clean oil. Sludge will make it go down hill pretty quick. This subject has been covered here extensively and we usually do our oil service between 8 and 10K tops. Some who have had to go through the desludging process have had to endure 2k-5k oil service intervals, with diesel added for extra desludging. I would bet you have a sludgy engine and there is an excess amount coming back through your PCV. I would do an oil change asap, with engine flush, then do subsequent oil changes every 5K until it is desludged.

Haha, I watched that same video just the other day, which prompted me to buy that bleed/funnel kit. Got it from Amazon Prime. Should be here next week. Just prior to this, I also watched his video on how to replace spark plugs on the 2GR-FE. I was laughing when he said, "look how easy it is, once you know how". Sheesh !! As much as I love the guy, it's not an easy job. You still have to dismantle half the top end to do it and you will also need new intake plenum gaskets. Make sure they are Orange as they are the new, updated ones over the older black ones. The car care nut is a great channel that's for sure.

100%. I did buy me a set of those a while back, particularly for the removal of the fill bolt on the manual transmission in my M3. I tried to undo it with a regular socket and it wouldn't budge and not risking rounding off the hex plug, I waited until my impact sockets arrived and got it off no sweat. It was on pretty tight though, but managed with the use of a breaker bar. I swear by impact sockets. Haha, yeah. He's a good boy. Loves helping Dad. I keep large pieces of cardboard handy for not only laying on them but to cover my work car during the hot summer days. When the carport goes up, that will be a thing of the past, thank God !! Also helps to keep the dew off overnight after I spend an epic amount of time cleaning it. I just remove the sheets of cardboard before I set off and the only part that is dewy is the top of the bonnet, which I quickly wipe over with my microfibre towel.

Remember this thread ? Here's the link for my tool if you're interested. You have to pay at least $50 for a decent one. The "SQ" denotes that it also has a provision for a 3/8" ratchet drive through the centre, if you don't have the 19 mm socket. Most would but this is the added redundancy, which I didn't mind paying extra for. The standard version of this is $35 with no 3/8" drive, only the 19mm Hex. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OMIK-Professional-Oil-Filter-Tool-for-Aurion-Rav4-Corolla-AUSTRALIAN-MADE/303231702791?hash=item469a049707:g:1wkAAOSwl5JcJHgj