yoshi

I'm pretty sure thats around the cost I came across about 2 years ago when I looked at it. It probebly wouldn't be too expensive to do, but to get it to look good would be difficult (not haveing some spots brighter than othe spots) and the risk of needing a new cluster is too high.

...I dont think he is suggesting you red line, especially in 4th, on wet roads, while on your P's, without your P plates on. That was meant to inspire safe driving Well done Johnnieboi

Haven't a few people complained that after doing other mods that the transition into lift isn't as great as it used to be? I have no complaints about medium rev range power, and would love the top end just to have a bit more... On the other hand, more in the middle would make everyday driving better. Edit: Spelling

A long time ago I looked into doing something like this aswell. At the time Northy and Silverbullit offered lots of info to me. The Red that is in your dash is coming from a layer of red within laminates of your instrument cluster. Behind that there is a PCB with surface ounted LEDS on it. To achieve the change of colour, you would have to get a custom instrument cluster made up with a clear layer instead of red, unsolder the surface mount LEDs, wire in a few shift lights to turn one set of LEDs off at a certain RPM and turn another set on at a certain RPM. You would also have to use a diffuser or something to get an even spread of light across the dash. I would have loved to have blue dash that turns red at 6200rpm, I have blue door sills, changed centre consol to blue a while ago, have a blue stereo. Unfortunately, things get very costly if you make a mistake and need a new cluster.

I took a photo when my car was on 99999km...that was a while ago now :(

play with as many settings as you can and review your photos, just gives you an idea of what setting changes what. The more you play with it the faster you learn.

I have been waiting for Toyota to do something. I called them yesterday and the person handling my case wasn't available. But the service manager called me and said I just have to tee up a time for the workt o get done at the second dealership now, for which I am calling tomorrow. My biggest problem is that they have been serviceing my car for a while now and have they been doing this the whole time? as far as I am concerned they can replace anything that can be damaged by it incase there is damage to it. Thanks all who advised in this thread :D

As said previously, I won't be paying for it, but I also want them to check things which may go wrong with the car as a result of their stupidity, which is why i am asking the possible things that can go wrong. I know for a fact that their crap service has been happenning for around 12 months. According to them I was the one to point out to them that the service intervals of Sportivo differs from regular Corolla. If I were more of a smart **** I wouldnt mind trying for a full refund of all of the services from them (labour side of it only) as number one listed on invoice is "service performed by the book" $xxx (what ever the charge is) Clearly they arent by the book.

The original dealer is organising that it goes to another dealer and they invoice the orginal dealer (they arent in the same group).

I recently got my Sportivo serviced at a Toyota dealership and am 100% unhappy with their service. There are other problems with their service, but I am just wanting to know about engine oil for now. They wrote down that they put in 4.7L of oil when my sump capacity (including filter) is 4.4L. There would have also been some oil already in the engine aswell. My dipstick is saying about 1.5cm above full and it is my only car, so I have been driving it still. I brought this issue up with the Service manager immediately, but he didn't seem to want to help so I went to TMCA and by the looks of things they have told him to rectify the problems (which will be done at a different dealership as I have stated I will never go back to that one again). My impression of their solution is that they wish to drain my oil, put the right amount in and problem solved. My car is feeling sluggish, but I am not wanting to drive hard at all. What is short term damage (which I want them to inspect for) and long term damage? Thanks Josh

http://www.cnorth.com.au/vvtli/vvtl_i.htm This would be the video your looking for. I also found this good site http://www.puresportscar.com/elisevvtl But in short at around 6200rpm (stock) a high cam is engaged which changes the valve lift to allow more air and fuel into the engine. Basically when designing an engine, it must be decided whether it will have most efficient power production at low, medium or high revs. Having variable valve lift and a second cam grinding allows you to then pick 2 from the list.

Depending on date, I may be interested.

Toyota checked my car yesterday, no errors logged in the ECU. They even tried cleaning it again... I was told that it could be the ECU making mistakes that the MAF is sending the signal but the ECU not registering.

I would imagine items that allow you to be more self sufficient would be most important - Drinking water supply - Extra fuel tank - Winch

...But the problem solves itself without changing fuel. Car is going in for a service tomorrow and I will raise the issue with them again now that it has done it twice since last service.

Nope, I have never seen the light on

You've been musing over it for that long :P If you had the stock air box I'd recommend checking the fin in the intake, but from memory you have a CAI? Any CEL with the limp home mode? Only happenned once and rectified itself. now that its happenned twice in a few weeks, I am a bit more worried. I have CAI, so no airbox for me. CEL??

January 2007 I drove down to Sydney (just about a non-stop drive) and parked at my sisters house for about 2 hours, then drove to paramatta shopping centre to kill some time before a friend finished work. Drove over to the Ridges Paramatta and parked for about 5 mins, when we started up to drive over to her house, car wouldn't rev past around 2600 before a sudden j*rk (EDIT: censorship wins again). The next day the car worked fine. On Sunday 25th January, I went out to the shops, parked the car for about 30 mins and when i started up, did the no high revs thing. I figured the MAF was dirty or something, bought some contact cleaner and cleaned it. next day when I went for a drive, it ws fine. On Monday 9th Feb, same deal, but I was going to clean the MAF again the next day, the next day the car worked without issue. I also noticed that I could get the revs higher than 2600 through downshifting, but not through accelleration. The MAF looked pretty clean. What could be causing it to stop working intermittently? I figured condensation when I was in Sydney, as it was really humid in Brisbane and drove basically non-stop to Sydney, then it went bad, but next day worked fine. The one on 25th Jan was a really hot day and i though about heat being the cause, but the one on 9th Feb, wasnt a hot day, and I don't remember it being too hot in Sydney. Any help would be much appreciated

A few people on here may have an extra $950 in their pockets soon...

Me

If they feel it is OK in Australia to print gory pictures on cigarette packets and have the adds of slicing open brains to show that smokers can get annurisms (spelling?) or slicing off arteries to show how much smoking clogs them up, then why wont they show the adds like this in regards to speeding.

Slipknot - Dead Memories

I looked at videos of Poida a few weeks ago for memories sake, Nice one

Have an 04 Sportivo Bought it in August 06 with 72,000, now has 114,000.

this is AE82 CS hatch :P 58kw of FUURY!!! is it possible to drop a 4aGE into it?? if not I will just rally bash the ***** and ditch it on some poor (I am an idiot i swear) property :P really surprised that that wasn't censored