campbeam

Started the Aurion this morning and heard a grinding noise similar to this YouTube video. Bad Water Pump Bearing Noise - Bing video Investigated and loosened the serpentine belt tensioner hoping that it was one of the idler pulleys rather than the water pump. There was movement on the water pump pulley so the bearing is on the way out. Odometer reading is 226,005kms. Ordered a replacement water pump and gasket on eBay so hopefully will arrive by next Friday. Not exactly happy as planned road trip will have to be deferred plus not a straight forward task. In hindsight, I should have had the part on hand.

Various new Toyota models are now being built upon the Toyota New Global Architecture. As per the attached link, latest Camry now has Android Auto but talk to the dealer about device compatability. https://www.toyota.com.au/camry?gclsrc=aw.ds&gclsrc=aw.ds&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIt6qr366u7gIVSp1LBR12QwvUEAAYASAAEgKLNvD_BwE

Absolutely pay attention to what The Care Care Nut says in his YouTube videos. Easy for me to agree with what he said about buying oil in the last minute of the video because that is exactly what I have been doing. Progressed to only buying the full synthetic engine oils when they are on special. My preference has been upon oils with high detergent additive levels.

Best go talk to your Toyota Dealer. Maybe they can hook up Techstream or other diagnostic tools to check the calibration.

While you are waiting for a reply from a Hilux owner speaking from experience [I do not qualify] have a look at the Exedy Heavy Duty clutches and the Extreme Outback clutch kits. https://brisbanebrakeandclutch.com.au/buy-clutch-kits/ https://www.sparesbox.com.au/products/toyota-hilux-exedy-heavy-duty-clutch-kits?Brand[0]=EXEDY Clutch https://www.xtremeoutback.com.au/en/news-media/news-archive/extra-heavy-duty-upgrade-for-toyota-hilux If no suitable reply, then next step could be to go to a dedicated Hilux website giving details of your specific Hilux model.

In addition to Tony's post, you could try using silicone grease or a rubber seal protectant and conditioner as per the following YouTube video. I also did a Google search so worthwhile looking at the various links to videos and articles before proceeding further. https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=toyota+sunroof+rattle Please also post an update.

You really need to get an OBD II scanner to read the error codes in order to troubleshoot for the underlying cause. With the cruise control not working, I am totally guessing that the connections to the ABS module needs to be checked. This may also involve checking the ABS sensors on the wheels which the error code may pinpoint.

Most certainly have heard of this issue which was reported in the USA and presumably only applied to the US models particularly the floor mats. https://mashable.com/2014/03/19/toyota-lied-aceleration-recall/ After that brush with eternity, I would be troubleshooting the sticky pedal issue. No harm in giving the accelerator pedal pivot points a good spray of silicone spray. Definitely check any floor mats and make certain that there is that clearance with the accelator pedal. Something else is to check the connection of the accelerator position sensor, possibly disconnect and spray with electrical contact cleaner. Possibly unrelated but I would also be giving the throttle body and the idle control valve a very good clean. More of a maintenance issue but pays to eliminate it as a contributing factor.

Look at the post dated 17th October 2019 in this thread. Instead of doing the Y pipe modification, I upgraded the 3rd catalytic convertor to a 2.5" high flow one. I have posted my experiences and have not noticed any significant differences except the exhaust sounds a bit deeper/throatier at idle.

Best to confirm how many U660E transmissions that they have previously serviced. They absolutely need to know the procedure for checking/adjusting the transmission fluid level.

There are a number of threads on this Forum about this specific issue. If you want your transmission to last then you do need to change the Automatic Transmission Fluid. Toyota refers to it as a strainer rather than a filter so a bit of a debate whether it really needs to be changed. Main question is When and the answer is going to vary depending upon mileage and driving conditions. As a general guide, I would suggest 70,000 kms on the original ATF in severe driving conditions. Do have a look at the maintenance schedule in your vehicle owners manual.

Welcome to the Forum. Your Toyota looks to be in great condition. As for aesthetic modifications, I was thinking front spoiler, side skirts and a top windscreen strip. Following eBay listings may be of some interest. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universal-Gloss-Black-Car-Front-Bumper-Chin-Protector-Lip-Body-Spoiler-Splitter/254278559944?fits=Model%3ACorolla|Make%3AToyota&hash=item3b342ee8c8:g:pLoAAOSw6qdfxiEE https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universal-Rubber-Car-Front-Bumper-Lip-Skirt-Protector-Body-Spoiler-Splitter-2-5M/154147880924?fits=Model%3ACorolla|Make%3AToyota&hash=item23e3edffdc:g:gH4AAOSw7EFfi7C7 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/20cm-150cm-Roll-Sun-Visor-Tint-Film-Strip-Car-Van-Bus-Windscreen-UV-Shade-Black/313365685732?hash=item48f60ce5e4:g:uuMAAOSwqtJf7vee

I decided to thoroughly clean the door window glass then ended up using P&S Beadmaker as the final sealant. 1st coat was done Sunday afternoon and a 2nd coat was applied early this morning. After waiting the required 8 hours for the Beadmaker to fully cure, I then used the hose to lightly spray the glass for comparative purposes. I was going to say that the Beadmaker outperformed the MrFix9H coating then realised that the windows are essentially vertical and the windscreens are at a reduced angle. This could explain why the water beads were smaller on the windows than the windscreen. Real test is going to be driving in the rain at 60kph.

Please let us know the end solution. I reckon Tony has suggested the most likely causes with either a grounding wire or a poor electical connection. Good suggest for your mechanic to back track where that other person has been.

Usual starting point for me is a Google search of the specific error code. https://www.obd-codes.com/u0120#:~:text=This code means that the,or simply put%2C CAN bus.

The MrFix9H buffed off quite nicely and did not leave any smearing. Looked at the windscreen and noticed some build up which I missed in the top middle of the front windscreen. It buffed off very easily with a new microfibre cloth. I gave the front and rear windscreens a wipe down with 2 dry microfibre cloths then applied another coat. I have probably applied too thickly onto the application pad so I have used all 30ml of the product. Waiting for the coating to cure before giving it a light buff/wipedown. As you have suggested, I will wait before applying the P&S Beadmaker. This will give me more time to get the gazebo setup and to pick a dry non-windy day. I used the P&S Paint Coating Surface Prep. To make the detailers spray, I used Carpro ECH2O [waterless wash] and diluted it 1:15 using distilled water. Overall, this has been more of a introductory detailing training exercise for me. Lots of preparation required before actually applying the product.

What are the error code/s? Have you reset/cleared the codes and then the codes have reappeared? One possibility is that one of the new knock sensors is faulty or the electrical connection is loose.

Quite a few months ago, Tony suggested ceramic coating the windscreen for its hydrophobic benefits; better than Rain X. When it comes to detailing, I am very much at the beginner stage so got a lot to learn. Being very budget focused, I bought a 3 pack of 9H Mr Fix Ceramic Coating on eBay from a China seller. A YouTube review indicates that it is diluted and takes longer to cure compared to a premium product. Premium products will last 2 years minimum whereas the 9H Mr Fix is only saying 12 months. Following video demonstrates the steps to thoroughly clean the windscreen before applying the ceramic coating. I had previously cleaned and polished the windscreen a few times in recent weeks. So the windscreen got another wash then sprayed with some detailing spray as lubricant for the clay bar. Instead of polishing the windscreen, I buffed it with both a dry polishing pad and a woollen pad. I then used some paint preparation spray and dried off the winscreen with microfibre towels. I forgot to then do a clean of the windscreen with isopropyl alcohol. Applying the ceramic coating was as per the 9H product video with vertical and horizontal wipes of the supplied applicator pad. I found the product very easy to work with as it did not cure quickly. Actually, I was wiping the excess off the front windscreen and applying it to the rear windscreen. Instructions said to wait 5-10 minutes before lightly wiping with a microfibre towel to remove any excess. However, it was a very overcast day so I probably waited an hour or so before doing that final wipedown. I was doing this in the backyard with the potential for some light rain. I improvised using a car cover with the wiper arms up and boxes on the car roof to keep the cover off the windscreens. Planning upon doing another coating early Sunday then let it cure before applying a final top coat of P&S Beadmaker early Monday morning.

I have been researching the replacement of the front wheel bearing. In particular, I am thinking of trying to avoid having a bearing race stuck on the hub. Ended up looking at a wheel hub removal tool and buying it on Amazon for $19 compared to $55 on eBay. https://www.amazon.com.au/FreeTec-Front-Installer-Puller-Universal/dp/B07QK9BJLV/ref=nav_ya_signin?tag=googleshopdsk-22&linkCode=df0&hvadid=355314352693&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9139354426767559899&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9069315&hvtargid=pla-823681120767&psc=1& Following YouTube video demonstrates how to use it.

What I can suggest is to try and spray silicone spray around the wheel bearing. Something else is to loosen the wheel nuts and then retighten to the correct torque specification approx. 110Nm

Have a look at this video which shows the jacking points on a Toyota.

According to RedBook, steel wheel size is 16 x 6.0 and tyre size 205 R16C. https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/2007-toyota-hilux-sr-auto-4x4-my08-dual-cab/SPOT-ITM-277990/ 205 is the recommended max. tyre width for a 6.0" rim. https://www.tyresizecalculator.com/charts/tire-width-for-a-wheel-rim-size-chart Following rim size calculator may be of assistance. Also brand of tyre can impact recommended rim size. However best to check with your tyre dealer. https://www.tyresizecalculator.com/tyre-wheel-calculators/wheel-rim-size-calculator

A "cost friendly" option would be a visit to your local car wreckers to see what suitable wheels that they have available.

This link for Bob Jane may be applicable. https://www.bobjane.com.au/s/wheels-for-camry-1996-xv20 However, Redbook has a wheel specification of 14x5.5 https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/1996-toyota-camry-csx-auto/SPOT-ITM-280419/

As per usual, I will hope for the best and also plan for the worst. In the meantime, any day you wake up is a great day [compared to the alternative] 😂 We will just have to be God like, have a watchful eye and do good deeds with regular maintenance.