David the Viking

Like yourself Mick Im pretty sure I know the answer but while Evan is upping Ash I thought I would throw those questions his way :D

Evan have you got a tune yet???? Or a mod plate????

I had been looking at this one http://www.twmperformance.com/shortshifter...ortshifters.htm

The TRD looks much easier than your SX6 Daryl, seems to have better access to the spark plugs.

An engine has a lot of components that are made of disimilar metals (aluminium alloys, steel & cast iron) which all heat and expand at different rates. This is why they say not to race a cold engine. An idling car has very bad emissions which is why they say to warm it up while driving. Its all to do with thermal efficiency which is why automatic stop/start (no more idling at lights etc.) and cylinder deactivation (Holden V8 AFM) technology will be more prevalent in the future. I may have mentioned it before but I let the revs settle back down to the 1000rpm after starting which usually only takes a few seconds and by that time the engines oil pressure would have built and stabilised as well as the transmission fluid will have started to circulate properly. By letting the revs drop down I find it is much smoother selecting reverse and off I go. Then I take it easy until the engine temp gets close to normal.

I run the same in my wifes gen 6 Camry with the 215/60/16 Dunlop 300E's.

Holt Crap Batman $273 for tyres !!!! Where??

I have posted this before but this is what type of interface Im using for my ipod and is what a lot of installers use as well. http://ozdnn.rapidtrade.biz/aice/#&&am...tegory=17-26-55

36-38 should be ok, ultimately how the tyres wear will show what is the correct pressure as to low the shoulders of the tyre will wear and to high the centre of the tyre will wear excessively. On my TRD with 245/35/19's with a maximum recommended pressure of 45psi, I prefer to have them around 40psi and I get good wear from them. Just remember that the pressures shown on the tyre placard inside the drivers door jam is the MINIMUM recommended pressure for the tyres fitted to the vehicle.

You need to run 38-40psi in those 20's. The less volume of air you have inside a tyre the higher the pressure they need to be run at. Also the tyre should have a maximum save psi pressure moulded in the side wall.

I would be inclinded to say that the cap at one point was not tightened enough and it has allowed oil to escape and get around and above the o ring. I would clean it all up with some degreaser (cap and o ring separately) and then rinsed with water and dried before fitting. Make sure it is tight and see how it goes.

You will get the clunking noise when doing slow manuvers like parking, although I was starting to notice it at higher speeds. I think that having wider tyres such as those fitted to the TRD will more than likely cause it to occur earlier in the cars life than those with narrower tyres.

It may be possible to just buy the o ring and not the complete cap, well it used to be anyway.

I have connections! I actually saw a rubber one getting changed today, its a return line so its impossible doesn't have the same pressure in it as the front all metal one. Any way there are worse things in life to worry about I think that you will find it is actually an oil feed line same as the front all metal line and is NOT an oil return line.

The "leak" in the first pic is a spillage of some sort most likely from removing the oil filler cap, this is an area that is just part of the engine mounts. One casting for the top of the mounting and the lower part to front of the engine. There is no oil in these parts as they are solid alloy. The other leak around the filler cap just clean it up and make sure it is tight. If it continues to leak point it out at the next service or visit the parts department and get a new gasket/o ring for the cap.

June 07 build TRD - delivery April 08 now at 61,xxxkms

This may help http://www.wascc.com.au/

You only need an international licence if the licence from your country of origin is not in english, international licence is in english. So the UK licence will be ok. This is the same for Australians going overseas.

michaelb- it appears that you have never seen what the shims look like in the S series motors. They are about the size of a 20cent coin and cannot be made/cut out of sheet metal as the cam acts directly on them, they are made from hardened steel. A mechanic would most likely be ablle to service the valve clearances but will most likely need to check-measure-and order new shims in in order to carry this out. Another thing to check is the actual oil pressure switch. It is located in the head just to the right of the exhaust manifold.

No but the car is still under warranty. Toyota Australia pays the dealers to do this rectification.

Please see this post

Take it to a Toyota dealer service department and explain that you have just purchased the vehicle from a Ford dealer and wish to book it in before the warranty expires. Mention that you have heard about the "Customer Service Exercise" from other Aurion owners on a forum, and as you have just purchased it you are unsure when or if a notification letter will be sent to you. Dont let them fob you off till your next service, if they do just take your business to another dealer who wants your service. Also the Aurion service intervals are 15K (7.5K under severe conditions).

You do realise that the Aurion is built from the gen6 Camry chassis which is an evolution of the gen5, gen4, gen3, gen2 and gen1 which dates all the way back to the early 1980's! Also our Aurion is the "Asian Camry" that is sold throughout Asia and badged as a Camry as opposed to our Camry which is based on the "US Camry" styling. I read that as Toyota pushed to become No.1 manufactuer worldwide they did let their trademark quality slip and that this is now being turned around with new leadership by the Toyoda family. If the new Prius III is anything to go by this is definately true.

Yes the Aurion is made in Oz as is the gen6 Camry but the V6 in the Aurion (2GR-FE) is built overseas the same as the other V6's (2VZ-FE gen2, 3VZ-FE gen3 & 1MZ-FE gen4 - gen5). The 2GR is as good as the others as it produces more power with lower fuel consumption and emissions with dual VVTi (it is euro IV compliant). There is an issue with the VVTi oil feed pipe. I know some people here on the forum are not happy with the fix that Toyota has (replacing the rubber hose for another rubber hose), but the all metal pipe that has been fitted since late '08 engines is available and can be fitted. It also due to euro IV compliance does not need the timing belt changed every 100k (3VZ) and 150k (1MZ) as it has a timing chain. Time will tell ultimately.

Heard that before