DJKOR

Lets not forget sketra and her Seca progress. And when the might 2ZZ used to be king on these boards.

no waiii we is no gettin lyk dat crappy site. Actually... I will reserve my comments for good reason.

If you do a flush in the traditional manner by disconnecting the cooler hose and flushing it that way, you can expect to easily go through that much fluid as the entire transmission holds about 5.3 litres. If doing it this way, you would expect to do it properly and may go through even more than that. I would estimate at least 10 litres used in total (full flush and fill) and with the price of the transmission fluid, and your thoughts of keeping the same strainer etc, then is this another cost you are thinking of adding to it all. An example of this process is shown here (different transmission but similar procedure): http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=280006 As for the parts I have here, yes they will fit on my TRD as I have the exact same transmission... just with the addition of an external transmission cooler. Unless of course my dealer and I are incorrect and the strainer I have here is completely useless.

Virtual money. I'm not going to bet real money on something like this. I'm not that mean For when you show him some photos... and for when you get a proper part number directly from Toyota (not just trusting what he says if he doesn't agree with the photo), here are a couple more:

About 98% sure that the one I have here is the one you are looking for. But after all this discussion, I am now less sure.... ..... 97.5% sure that the one I've shown in the photo is the proper one. Over-confidence has bitten me on the a55 before though. I bet $100 with this fine piece of virtual currency: ^ Joke for the Brisbane guys.

It's too far to drive from Melbourne to Sydney! LOL. They are soft indeed <giggles like a little girl>

Having doubts eh? I'm not usually a betting man, but I'd be willing to make a bet

Your call mate. In this case, one of us (mechanic/dealer/myself) are wrong. Would be interesting to see who is, considering mine was also purchased from a dealer who confirmed the part number for me in their system.

I prefer to use these two products: - Autoglym Leather Cleaner: http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=FD&Range=1 - Autoglym Leather Care Balm: http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=EJIJ&Range=1 These were recommended in another thread by 'lateralus' IIRC, and I am quite satisfied with them. Edit: Here is the thread I was referring to: Aurion Interior Cleaning/Scotch Guard

Dangerous words to say here. We may end up with something like this: I'm a whore Though... I'm totally up for Evan getting hit by the ban stick again Secret agenda maybe . I like to think of it as killing two birds with one stone.

At the end of the day, it's your choice on what you want to do. As I said, it's not completely necessary... but as is going to the gym. I'm not going to keep discussing that issue anyways. As for what it looks like, the photo I took is of the actual strainer used in this transmission. Why else would I have purchased it? So you can draw conclusions from there.

I can't directly comment since I don't know exactly how the ECU is programmed to do it's calculation. All I have are my theories. Yes the injectors should be off in both cases, but maybe things work a bit differently with the Aurion. It could be possible that when you are in drive, the transmission would probably be sitting in 6th and probably not easily going to downshift. Now maybe due to the gear ratio and the speed you are travelling at the time, the ignition/fuel injection isn't completely cut as the engine is being driving at a speed which it determines isn't enough to be sustained from the momentum of the car alone. As a result, it just keeps on running the engine as if it were idling. Then when you downshift in S mode, you bring the revs up more and the ECU then shuts off ignition/fuel injection since the engine is being driven at a much higher RPM. Just my idea.

I've um.... been a bit of a whore... a dirty dirty whore. But the post count wasn't my intention for all the numerous posts. I just happen to be around here quite a lot. Damn. I'm averaging 7.73 posts per day. I remember this thread from some time ago. Hasn't taken long to go up from there: 3000 posts

4 months! In my eyes, she is well overdue. If you think you're anal, I wax my Aurion every Sunday . Personally, my recommendation would be to give her a good clean with a good car washing liquid that is made to prepare the surface (ie. strips wax), then clay her thoroughly, after which you can swirl treat if necessary/desired, followed by a polish (once again, if desired), then a good wax.

Hey guys. Do the quoted posts above look like a spambot in the making? If so, I think it has failed by not including it's spam links.

I would opt for Northy to do the towing. Can probably tow the whole Brisbane crew back with ease

Not most .... 1800RPM at 100km/h in 6th.

I think that comes down to the lack of clear coat? I guess in the gold colour, it is more noticeable compared to others. Do you notice the difference when driving now Steven?

More power as in you just want a figure that will look better, or more power as in usable power? You can do things like getting your front exhaust merge fixed up, and this may get you a better figure but when it comes to whether or not those slight increases actually make a difference, the difference is very minor if any. If you want to get some good power out of your Aurion, forced induction would be the way you would have to go to get something serious out of it. Personally, firstly work on reducing unnecessary weight in your car to improve your power-to-weight ratio. Then work on improving things like suspension so the power can be put to the ground decently.

Production efficiencies. It is cheaper to do things like they are now instead of that foam/vinyl wrapped plastic stuff you are referring to. Companies like to save money where they can.

Most likely Fujitsu Ten manufactured. I wouldn't be expecting much out of stock speakers. Usually they are around the vicinity of 10-15 watts RMS. Cheap paper cone construction, not much in terms of voice coil and magnet. Details of the speakers aren't of much use. Probably no different in quality compared to a $15 pair of speakers from a car audio shop.

Talk about a thread revival Yeah, my Sportivo had a gap that was about 2/3 of the OP's. Wasn't fussed either. I wasn't paying for a car that had to be absolutely perfect in it's interior panel clearances.

Basically, the OP has had the his engine cleaned of carbon deposits and now his car is giving off some pretty strong fumes but no smoke.

Hell yeah. We can assemble a dream team and make this work. It such a shame things have turned out this way, but as with most things in life, there is a reason for it.

You're kind of on the right track, but not quite. It's not to do with the change in speed (velocity if you really want to be picky of my wording here), but rather the effort needed to maintain it at a faster vs. slower speed. Read my first post at the top.