DJKOR

Guys, I think he wants the pinout of the factory stereo so that he can easily find which wires are for which speakers so he can then connect it to either a line-out converter (high-to-low converter) or to the high level inputs on an amp which has it. Quite a valid question for those that do not have a multimeter and/or don't want to test which wires are for which speaker. Surely someone has done this before so may be able to help out.

Not ruling it out completely, but just trying to give my own opinion and just that. Sure an over-oiled filter can contaminate the MAF sensor, but the key here is the length of time required to do so. These check engine light issues were happening in a relatively quick timeframe. I've had an over-oiled filter in the past and I personally believe that it would have to be fairly over-oiled to the point that it was dripping oil when fitted for it to get that possibility of contaminating the MAF as quick as it has been occurring in the cases here. In addition to that, the pod is located a bit of length down the from where the MAF is. If the filter was that over-oiled that it will contaminate the MAF that quick, you should be able to see some residue in the intake pipe leading up to the MAF. Maybe try disconnecting some of the pipework and inspect what it looks like on the inside. I highly doubt the filter was over-oiled (if it even is) to the degree stated above so I wouldn't be thinking that it is causing the light to come on in such a short period. Yeah I know this is all marketing material, but it's just another perspective on the oil thing: http://www.knfilters.com/maf/3MAFSensorVideo.htm

Looks the goods Michael. Loving the colours in the backdrop as well. Damn, you should have told me to move my car out of the way. Didn't realise it was in the field of view. Need some of that Photoshop content aware thing to hide it.

That would be a wicked model to have just for the fun of it.

^ Win. I'm absolutely, positively there.

Welcome mate. Firstly, the 'Welcome to Aurion' text can not be changed unless you know how to reverse engineer a bit and reprogram whatever memory inside the head unit holds that text. Secondly, there is no clock on the stereo. As you have mentioned, it's most likely because of the one on top of the air vents. It's just one less thing to set when you disconnect the battery.

Well, since I've been using this thread to keep records, I may as well continue... even though the fuel consumption is bound to be higher. So it's now time to start fresh again. TRD Fuel Consumption (Excel Spreadsheet) - At 5313km, my total fuel used was 500.99L and my average fuel consumption was 9.43L/100km This figure could have been quite a bit lower considering 2000 of those kilometres was used driving from Adelaide to Brisbane. However, there was quite a lot of straight road to cover and well... lets just say the car wasn't at a fuel efficient cruising speed during that time. Plus the fact I've been running her pretty hard as to be expected.

Just seeing the first photo reminds me of that too Trent. Also brings back memories like these:

Great mini meet guys. Was good to catch up again to kind of make up for Thursday. Some great photos there Michael. Loving the setting you used. Can't wait to see how the Yaris and yours turned out.

Did Shinobi get them to tell him what the error code was exactly? When I get an error code, I get them to tell me what it is so I can do further research/troubleshooting on it. May also depend on the service advisor as to whether they want to tell you or not. I know the guys at my local dealer that they read/reset codes for me with no worries. Even with a slightly over-oiled filter, it shouldn't foul up the MAF that fast to throw a code as quick as it did. I'm having my doubts that the oil from the filter is causing this. I've had a filter before that had a bit of excess reside on it (nothing abnormal) and it didn't have any effect on the MAF. I also highly doubt that simply changing the intake will make the engine run lean all of a sudden. You have to introduce much more air than a simple intake is going to provide for it to run lean. I would be thinking that there could be something to do with the placement of the MAF. If the airflow past it isn't suitable for the MAF, then it won't be reading the airflow properly and can throw a code. The thing is, others seem to have no issues with it. Could it possibly be a variation in production? I dunno. The best place to start though would be to find what the error code is. That gives a point of reference to work off.

I'm there. I'll just rock up and see how it goes.

Yeah, I've seen those before. Too much 'bling' for my liking since you already have the mirror indicators. That's my own opinion though.

But then my neat little place will be given away Nah, I'd really recommend using this spot. Once you put the cover back on it, you won't even know it's there. Just ignore the dirt which I didn't clean before the photo, and the messy silicone around the ballast (I don't trust the claims that these cheap kits are water resistant: My ballasts do get a little warm after extended use, but I wouldn't say hot. The ones like the one I have (the boxy ballast), will produce heat from the DC to AC converter and the transformer component of the ballast. It's nothing to worry about if it produces heat. How much heat it produces depends on how efficient it is. I guess your isn't that efficient.

This would be moisture in the air heating up on the heater unit then turning into steam. This moisture reacts with bacteria that is on the evaporator for the A/C which the air passes through to produce that bad smell. That doesn't just chemically mask the smell. It contains other chemicals that actually kill the bacteria that gathers on the evaporator. With the bacteria killed off, it won't produce the smell anymore.

In this case however, freshly bled brakes together with new fluid can be pretty noticable compared to a gradual change with the fuel treatment etc. They usually come in a small spray can. I'm not sure about the Toyota one, but the one which I use involves removing the pollen filter then with the cover off where the pollen filter goes, turn your A/C on to high fan speed and to the coldest setting. Then while it is running, start spraying the contents of the can from side to side into the slot where the pollen filter goes. Keep doing this until the contents of the can is emptied. When the can is emptied, put the cover back on the filter slot and leave the A/C running for 15-30 minutes. After that, turn it all off, put your filter back in (preferably a new one), then you're done. Another way to do it is after removing your pollen filter, put the cover back on the slot, run your A/C as per above, then go outside the car and spray the contents of the can from side to side into the fresh air vent located underneath the passenger side wiper. The first method is the most effective though as it ensures most of the spray gets into the A/C.

I will always have a soft spot for a white Sportivo. Great choice mate.

Today I fitted my replacement HID's. Also took the effort to run it off a twin relay setup so that my high beams won't cause the HID's to flash. Also found a new place for my ballasts for a much cleaner install. Now my car feels like it should.

Might eh? Yeah... I might not be there next week

Don't think of it as a performance improvement. Think more cost saving. It all depends on how cheap a standard air filter for your car costs. For example, on my Aurion, a standard filter costs about $25-$30. A reusable panel filter can be had for around $70-90. Add on a cleaning kit for around $15 as well. Basically, the filter pays itself off after the distance/time used when you would change the standard filter around 3 times. Depending on how often you change your filter, this can pay off relatively quick, and after that it's considered a saving.

The accuracy of the speedos in each car can vary. Some are spot on, some can be off by about 7-8km/h at 100km/h. Only way to tell how accurate yours really is would be to get a accurate GPS device (I wouldn't call your everyday GPS accurate.. but close), or to get it tested. If it wasn't a camera car, then if you didn't get pulled over, you are fine.

Your rego cost is dependent on age? That's a bit odd. Well, today... more like tonight (last night whatever), I picked my girl up from the airport. Felt so great to drive her again compared to the i30 I had to drive for the last day and a bit.

Not saying that is the issue though. Maybe just see how it goes after a few days. If it was only just put on, give it some time to settle in.

There is the possibility that it could be the butterfly valve not being fully closed. That said though, it's not a sealed butterfly valve so exhaust gases can always get past it when closed. It just takes the path of least resistance which happens to be that bypass chamber. To make sure of it though, you have to disconnect one muffler and press the close button for a couple of seconds, then repeat with the other muffler. When both are connected to the same circuit, having one reach full closed/open before the other can create extra load in the circuit and even make it more difficult for the other one to close properly. This is why you need to disconnect one at a time then 'reset' it.

That's a disgrace Ash!

Personally, regardless of how good the injector cleaner is, unless you injectors are seriously dirty, a majority of the effects you feel will be placebo. And if you don't let the placebo effect get a hold of you and you don't feel any difference, this doesn't necessarily mean that it is not doing its job. A good sign that you have fallen victim to the placebo effect in this case is if you feel a difference immediately after leaving the petrol station. The reason for this is that these products don't work instantly because they are mixed with the fuel. It has to run through a bit of the fuel before it completes its cycle.