DJKOR

You'll firstly need to put a relay into the fuse panel that is located behind the glove box. Now when it came to fitting the fog lights in Ingres' AT-X, I first tried to find where the wiring harness from the steering column went so I could tap into it without removing the steering wheel. Unfortunately though, my patience got the best of me and I figured it may be more difficult to tap into the harness further back from the steering column. The best way in my opinion is to remove the cover surrounding the steering column and tap into the harness directly at the connector. Previously I said you will need to remove the steering wheel to remove this cover because the two screws that hold the cover on are directly behind the steering wheel. Not long later though, I realised that if you simply turn the steering wheel, you can access the screws therefore you won't have to remove the steering wheel. Unfortunately I didn't quite take note of which colour wires were for the fog light control.

Depends on how friendly you are with the guy in the spare parts department. I have saved hundreds of dollars getting stuff at wholesale pricing. Quite useful considering the amount of things I had to get directly from Toyota. But with the battery available at Jaycar for $3.95, there's no way I'd be getting it at Toyota.

Welcome to the forum mate. Those SV21's sure do drive quite well and are a solid car. You should bring it out to one of our weekly meets so I can reminisce on the days when I was 17 and owned an SV21 Brisbane Meetup (Every Thursday 9pm 8pm)

Wicked mate. I'm really excited as well about all this. Can't wait to see it running and to hear that sweet whine that I am unfortunately missing. Well at least there was a Plan B already prepared just in case Supercharger whine is one of those things that you certainly notice more than a turbo blow off. It's just that unique.

I always use 'S' mode and adjust gears manually. If you were to do a tight mountain run with in in 'D' or having it in something like 'S6', you will quickly find that it is really sluggish. You want to keep it close to the gear for the speed you are going. I usually toggle between 2nd and 3rd (keeping the revs above 4000RPM), with the occasional shift to 4th on the straights that need it when you top out 3rd.

Oi! If you've got nothing nice to say, then don't say it at all. :lol: Oh the memories. This forum sure has them.

Off topic a bit. LOL. I read that entire post thinking that everything under "DJKOR" was directed at me. I was thinking that it was a bit odd, and I even had to scroll up to see what I said. I read that without realising that I said the first 5 paragraphs in your post. Anyways, the extra torquey feel that you experienced from the RAV4 may possibly be due to it's different gear ratios. Compared with the Aurion, the RAV4 has the following ratios. Aurion: 1st: 3.300:1 2nd: 1.900:1 3rd: 1.420:1 4th: 1.000:1 5th: 0.713:1 6th: 0.608:1 RAV4 (auto): 1st: 4.24:1 2nd: 2.36:1 3rd: 1.52:1 4th: 1.05:1 5th: 0.76:1 As you can see, the RAV4 has lower gear ratios when compared gear to gear (up to 5th anyways) to the Aurion. This lower gear ratio equates to higher torque which creates that feel that it is pulling harder.

My old Aurion would always continue to 'surprise' me. I had done many many mountain runs (Mt. Nebo FTW) in it, and each time I would be able to push ever so slightly harder than before. No matter how many times I would do it, I would always finish satisfied in what it could do, especially when travelling with other 'performance' based cars. I never got bored of it. I did however desire more power... but I guess that is sorted now. This car surprises me every minute just driving it anywhere.

Today I gave here a good cleaning inside and out today. Spent about 1 hour at the car wash vacuuming and washing. Then I got home and fitted a TRD oiled panel filter, Ultra Racing strut bar and 19mm rear sway bar (thanks David). Also removed all my wheels to give them a good cleaning (damn the centre caps are annoying), adjusted my park brake, and performed a tire rotation to get some extra traction.

In theory this would sound like you could pull it off.... but you would have to be dreaming. However... if you were to dispute it in court, they would immediately be questioning why it was only paid moments before the fine. Basically because the cop had to pull you over for you to go ahead to pay it, you were technically driving unregistered for the period of time up until you arrived to the RBT.

After driving an Aurion for 75,000km on 17's, I can definitely say that they are noticeably more comfortable than 19's. Also more forgiving when hitting bumps/grooves in the road.

The CR2032 is for the standard remote central locking keyfobs. The Smart Entry uses a CR1632 battery which you can find at Jaycar for $3.95. For those with the standard keyfob, you can also find the CR2032 at Jaycar for $3.95 as well. The instructions to replace it are in the manual, but basically you remove the key on the side, then insert the tip of the key into the small slot next to where you insert the key normally. Then you twist it and the remote pops open.

This post will become very useful for me. Thanks rubin for posting it up. Damn the design of the TRD wheel centre cap is really really stupid.

Welcome mate. How did your car go at the track while stock? What suspension changes are you thinking of making? This can probably help someone here recommend a shop. I personally don't have any recommendations. I would usually do the work myself then have someone like Fulcrum at Hillcrest to do the alignment etc. Just keep an eye out in the Upcoming Meets thread. If anything around QLD pops up, you will see it there. I'm always up for a Nebo run on a Thursday night heading from our weekly meet if you ever want to give your new suspension a workout

Today I drove my TRD the final stretch to Brisbane after a good rest. Luckily I encountered only a few bugs on this trip. However, things were not so great otherwise. Yesterday I managed to avoid hitting a Sheep and an Emu along the Barrier Highway in SA. Boy that was interesting. I also had a white bird of some description crash into my side door... most likely dead on impact. Luckily the door was fine. Also had no roos on that trip. Today though, I luckily avoided two roos on the same lane. That was a close one. Unfortunately though, the one thing I couldn't avoid is a crow of all things. The damn thing decided to fly low into the path of my car. No damage to the body of the car, but the unique TRD mesh insert on the lower opening of the bumper took the force of the crow. It ended up stretching the TRD mesh to a point of no repair. No mounting points were damaged.... just the mesh. So that was a massive disappointment. Looks like I will have to source a replacement. In the meantime, I have just meshed it with some generic black mesh. Also today when I got home, I took the bumper off and gave the front and the engine bay an epic cleanout. It is amazing how many bugs were still hiding in the empty space behind the bumper. Tomorrow will be the day I give the car a full clean. At least the worst is sorted out:

The alignment isn't performed according to whether the car drives straight or not. It is adjusted at each wheel using computer calibration where an alignment unit is mounted on each wheel and adjustments are made until the wheel is sitting exactly as required. The differences in wheel alignment don't come only from wheels and tires.... it's from the actual steering and suspension components. Nevermind the fine details behind it all. All I am saying is that you can't just get the figures from another alignment of a car that goes straight and expect it to work on another car.

They should take care of you well. I've had good experiences with them. This was one reason why I didn't want to remove anything from my car after it was assessed. Even if they don't, it was a risk I didn't want to take, Good luck with it all mate.

Now without me having to call up (because I'm lazy), does anyone know if Holiday Double Demerit points apply here in Queensland. I know they do in NSW, but I'm not sure about here anymore. It's like they have done it before here, but dropped the idea. And if the answer is somewhere along the lines of 'they do it when they feel like it, etc', does this apply over the Easter long weekend? Edit: Hmmm, I just found this. Seems good so far.

One thing you need to be aware of is that there is no exact wheel alignment specification that will work perfectly on ALL cars. Every car (including those of the same model) can have different wheel alignment specifications. This is because of the variances that may exist between all steering/driveline components.

Spotted Matt (mattmcd1) travelling Southbound on the Pacific Motorway at 12:22pm prior to the Rochedale/Underwood exit.

Oh damn. I made a mistake. Please disregard this post.

I drove my TRD from Adelaide to Gilgandra (also happens to be 20km out from where Sam was written off), where I will be spending the evening having a good rest ready for the drive to Brisbane tomorrow. I learnt the hard way that driving during the day does not necessarily mean that you will end up with minimal to no bugs. Driving between Adelaide and Gilgandra, I encountered many, MANY plagues of bugs. I couldn't believe my eyes. I had never seen so many bugs out during the day. I don't even think I have encountered as many bugs before even during the evening. Luckily I found a truck wash here so I spent about 30 minutes pressure cleaning the front end including around the radiator and engine bay. It's back to a decent state now, but when I get back to Brissy, it looks like I will be spending the weekend cleaning my car... including removing the front bumper. What a disaster:

To answer the question you have, Ford wheels will bolt up to the Aurion since they share the 5x114.3 PCD that the Aurion does. Having a +35mm offset will still work, the wheels will just sit more flush than the stock wheels. Those Volk's you have mentioned, I would not recommend. The offset is too far off from the stock +45mm. This will make them stick out like crazy on the front and a bit on the rear. As well, I wouldn't go any wider than 8.5 or 9 inches wide for either the front or rear, unless you are ready to do some custom work like INDOMI: -INDOMI- 06 Camry with 20x9.5 +16(F) & 20x10 +10®

This has nothing to do with the transmission. What you will find is the cause for it heating up is the bulb that is located directly below the gear shifter assembly. Have a read here: Heat from centre console when in sports mode?

Thanks Steve for the refresh of the site. It will take a bit of getting used to since the change to IP Board 3 is a little bigger than I was expecting, but in time it should feel normal again.