DJKOR

Great meet guys. Was really nice to meet a fair few of you. Some familiar faces, some new faces. Seems the Corolla is still the go with the meets . Thanks Jeff for turning up as well. Good to have someone there to talk about the Aurion with. I owe you one next time. P.S. I hope that intake hose holds up for a little while William until such time that you can get an appropriate hose. Something with a 45 degree bend in it should do the trick.

I think with the canon, you can rotate the muffler about 45 degrees, which puts the motor assembly on the side a little. This lets it sit higher. On the oval Varex, the motor assembly sits at the top. I think the stock inlet is 1.75 inches. As well, the rubber muffler mounts aren't the problem. It's how low the muffler sits so that the motor at the top clears the body of the car. This is an example from when I was test fitting mine: For fun, here is what a steep driveway is like with the oval Varex on an stock height Sportivo Aurion:

I personally prefer the one on the right. That new style grill just doesn't do it for me. Too many lines in my opinion.

Yea.. It's like a swirling noise rite..? Im bringing it back to Toyota so they can fix it together with the rattles. I get a very light noise on mine as well. You have to be paying attention though to notice it. Personally, I wouldn't be complaining about it to Toyota... but good luck with that anyways. I just see it as part of normal operation. Low fan speed coupled with a digital controller, and you can get some sound produced. Not to mention, the fan is a moving part itself. Otherwise, I'd be returning my desk fan, my ceiling exhaust fan, and my computer because the fans make noise.

I like where this idea is going I say... good on 'em.

You said you've 'got the car for one day'. So you've just got it? Sorry, I thought you've had it for a short while already, that's all. Anyways, if it is new, then getting the occasional odd smell isn't out of the ordinary. Just turn the air circulation to 'fresh air' and drive it for a little with the fan on full. It can also be smells coming from outside of the car coming through the fresh air vent like new tires etc. I occasionally get a burning rubber smell, but that comes from following trucks etc. That's another story. Unfortunately I'm not sure about setting that one up. Chances are, if it isn't responding, something isn't plugged in properly or a fuse is not there/blow. Personally, on a new car, if something like that isn't working or you are having difficulty, the dealer shouldn't hesitate to help you out.

This is going to be a nice clean package. I can't wait to see the progress on it. Clean on the outside, super neat on the inside.

Shame to see you move on from the Rolla. No doubt your new toy will be much fun, but that Rolla is one of the best ones I've seen. So much so, you had my vote at last years' meet

Good to see this Camry coming along nicely. Show those US folk that we down under can have great looking Camry's as well. Keep up with the good modding. Boy I hate when that happens. It's one of that unfortunate things of life though.

I'm not overly environmentally conscious... but seriously:

I thought I might add the following. In no way am I saying your statements are wrong; I'm just giving an opinion: With this statement, it should be made clear that the scrubbing is not the one most think of where it scrubs on wheel arch/guard. This type of scrubbing is against the strut. It will either scrub or it won't... depending on the offset and wheel width. You NEVER want this to happen. Having an offset any lower than +35mm and having your car lowered will probably scrub all the time if your wheel width is greater than 8.5 inches. Depending on how much lower your car is, this can be even worse. Also as well, depending on which coilovers you get, you can adjust the camber which can also help alleviate the scrubbing issue. My personal opinion would be to have a minimum offset of +35mm. This is if you aren't going to roll/pump your guards or anything like that.

Actually, that is Balut and it's not only limited to duck. It can also be chicken.

OMG!!! I never thought I would see this day coming. Congrats Evan. This shall be exciting.

Yeah mate. I have the oval Varex with 2.5 inch inlet and the 4 inch double-walled tip. Fitting it was a piece of cake for the right exhaust shop. Details on this experience can be found by reading onwards from here: http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...st&p=306577 I have only changed the rear mufflers. New piping was used from the flanges after the rear y-pipe, but apart from that, all pipe diameters remain the same.

Because this only occured after your y-pipe was done, there is a good possibility that this was the cause. Probably one of your 02 sensors is not reading the values it should be. I guess when you take it to Toyota, they can tell your what error codes it is throwing to give you a better indication.

Welcome mate. Looking good, though in my personal opinion, you should tint those tail lights. They are just too bright for the darker colour of the car.

Because both cars are quite capable of acheiving similar times, this is why I have said: For the purpose of this argument, until you get the same driver to drive both cars to the best of their ability, then it's not really going to be the car that determines the win. Hurry up Adam and sort this out. It's been a week already .

I wouldn't say I'm that great of a driver, I just drive my car enough to know how she likes to be driven. Bad habits as well like taking off hard at traffic lights etc. Another good thing when launching the auto is to make sure that if/when you stall it up, you do it as quickly as possible. If you stall it up for just that little bit too long (as much as a second or two), it seems to bog it down a little. Depending on how hot or cold things are will have an effect on this. I guess if getting it perfect was really simple, then it wouldn't be much of a race would it.

It does look a little like an OLED display. If that's the case, well there is no easy solution.

I'm out of town so I don't have all my time slips on me (something like 15-20 of them), but from memory, all my runs that were under 14.5 seconds had a 60ft time of 2.300s or below. This isn't an exact indication, but it shows where fractions of a second can make a difference. It's quite amazing to see how it all adds up as well. If I remember correctly, my runs that were under 14.3 seconds had a 60ft time of under 2.260s.

Unfortunately the Prius population here isn't that huge, and add to that the fact that the ones here may not even have what you are looking for. The possibility of getting such an answer is pretty slim. You would be more successful taking a multimeter and testing it yourself.

Awww, look at you guys playing. You can see how much you love each other. I won't be there

With the front strut brace only, there is a slight difference in cornering feel as in it feels slightly flatter. Personally, if you aren't going to drive the car hard, you aren't going to have any strong effects from the rear sway bar. If you upgrade your RSB for you own driving pleasure, you don't need to worry about it getting in the way when your wife drives it.

It has begun:

It seems you were paying attention to getting a good reaction time. Remember that when you are aiming to get the best time down the 1/4 mile (showing which car is faster), then you don't have to factor in reaction time. Remember, the clock doesn't start till you leave the starting line. Let the light go green while you focus on getting your launch right. It can make a huge difference. So what if your opponent crosses the finish line first. You can then compare your ET's and see who has the lower one. Here's a fun fact as well with respect to reaction times. Depending on the regulations your dragway uses, a perfect reaction time would be 0.400 seconds (can be 0.500 with a 5 tenths tree, but it would more likely be the 4 tenths tree). The reason for this is because the reaction time is timed from the last yellow light. The green light is lit up 0.400 seconds after the last yellow light, and therefore, getting a reaction time of 0.400 indicates that you left the line right on the green light. A reaction time any lower means you left the line early. Some newer regulations with newer electronic systems now mean that they can time your reaction time from the green light. This also makes it easier to understand for spectators. I'm not aware of how widespread this system is though, so there is a good chance that they are using the 4 tenths tree. Just letting you know in case you ever want to start paying attention to that as well. Edit: Just had a look at Perth Motorplex (if that's the one you used). Turns out the reaction times start from the green light so therefore the closest to 0.000, the better.