DJKOR

Have you lowered your Camry. If not, I would say you would be pretty well in the clear from any scrubbing issues. I dare-say, even if you were lowered, your chance of rubbing would be fairly low as well due to the wheel/tire width. I would imagine that when lowered, you would probably experience rubbing issues if you had a wheel with a width 8 inches or greater, in combination with a tire that is 235mm wide or greater. This is just my prediction.

Drivers that don't understand the importance of having a larger following distance in the wet. Nearly had a taxi crash into my rear earlier on near the city. I had a taxi in front of me hit their brakes hard to come to a stop because some idiot cut in front of them as they were slowing for the lights. Then of course I hit my brakes slightly harder as well. Then there was the idiot taxi driver behind me that was going a little quick in the wet and with a close following distance. Lucky for me/him that when I have to brake hard, I try to make sure I leave extra distance between me and the car in front whilst at the same time paying attention to the person behind me in the rear mirror. With the metre of space I had between me and the taxi in front, I managed to release my brakes and tap the accelerator a little so I could move forward and literally save my a**. All this while I could see the taxi behind me in my peripherals slide as he came to a stop.

Fools that don't put their damn phone on silent during a movie. Then those that even answer their phone. While on that topic.... those that kick your chair. You just want to turn around and tell them to f*** off, but for some reason, you don't.

Off topic... since I would assume you went that way, how did the Kluger absorb the bumpiness of the Newell? I have sworn to never again drive that road if I need to get to Melbourne. My poor shocks. Emu... now that's a first. I've seen roos (some lying on the lane next to me luckily, some that I've had to avoid... both alive and dead), foxes, and rabbits, but definitely not emus. I have hit a bat of all things though.

Looking great there mate. Keep up the detailing. She will love you for it. Shame I don't have that much passion in detailing the exterior of my car like that anymore. I need a respray on the front end before I will start caring for it again. I'm looking forward to your ICE project completion. That will be wicked.

I'm addicted and I think it's unhealthy. I really love using it and seeing the results, but when I use it, I get this hate feeling for it because I am really tired of having to use it. Despite that hate, I still keep coming back for more. Is there a particular word/s to describe this addiction?

To resurrect this thread a bit, I have seen that the Toyota Nation forum has recently integrated a 'thanks' feature to their forum and it seems to me like it would be a great idea. Their reasoning behind it is reduce the number of thread cluttering posts that are there just to simply say thanks where appropriate. It's also to reduce post boosting where a singe word thanks reply can gain you an extra post to your count. They obviously use a different forum system there, but I was curious to see if the Invision Power Board can do so as well. I'm not sure what version is being run here, but if such a feature can be added as detailed in the below link, that would be excellent I reckon. The feature below is a version 2.2 and 2.3 feature, so I'm not sure if this board is newer than that. Also, that attached mod has some shocking spelling mistakes, LOL. Thanks Advanced 2.2 Thanks Mod Light - ajax Edit: Man, if this board is version 3.0 or above and this following mod can be used.... I will even pay for it: [EN30] Ajax Thanks v1.0.2 Please, please, please, please, please. Edit 2: Looks like this board is more than likely version 2.x

That's alright, just making sure so that you don't find out the hard way. Not without changing your hubs (which without some pretty good custom work... is never going to happen), or by means of a PCD spacer adapter which is illegal.

Just making sure.... this isn't for your Corolla right? Because the ZRE has a 5x114.3 stud pattern compared to the ZZE's stud pattern of 4x100.

Yet again... another fuel average update from me. Since I did some interstate driving, I figured this help to bring my fuel average down a little. I've also noticed ever since the last time at the drags, I don't have as much urge to hit redline any more. My fuel average for my return trip from the Hunter Valley to Brisbane was shown on the meter to be 8.5l/100km. Upon manual calculation, this worked out to be 8.3l/100km (61.55 litres for 741.3km of travel). I found this to be quite a good figure considering that for most of the way, I was going around 10km/h over the designated speed limit and that this drive involved a couple of inclines reaching a maximum altitude of 1400 metres above sea level. Compared to my figures for my drive from Melbourne to Brisbane where I obtained 8.2l/100km sticking to the speed limit and going no faster, it seems that this is about the fuel consumption figure I will obtain for my interstate travel. I did notice on the way there that I could get a figure under 8.0l/100km if I was to travel between 80-90km/h continuously, but me being me, this isn't an option. Anyways, time for the figures: Aurion Fuel Consumption (Excel Spreadsheet) - At 4010km, my total fuel used was 417.14L and my average fuel consumption was 10.4L/100km - At 8385km, my total fuel used was 907.83L and my average fuel consumption was 10.8L/100km - At 12781km, my total fuel used was 1420.46L and my average fuel consumption was 11.1L/100km - At 15716km, my total fuel used was 1772.86L and my average fuel consumption was 11.28L/100km - At 18333km, my total fuel used was 2089.2L and my average fuel consumption was 11.4L/100km - At 21099km, my total fuel used was 2432.43L and my average fuel consumption was 11.53L/100km - At 22735km, my total fuel used was 2635.44L and my average fuel consumption was 11.59L/100km - At 24285km, my total fuel used was 2833.42L and my average fuel consumption was 11.67L/100km - At 30048km, my total fuel used was 3503.85L and my average fuel consumption was 11.66L/100km - At 34235km, my total fuel used was 3951.27L and my average fuel consumption was 11.54L/100km - At 38597km, my total fuel used was 4457.73L and my average fuel consumption was 11.55L/100km - At 49843km, my total fuel used was 5712.31L and my average fuel consumption was 11.46L/100km - At 64720km, my total fuel used was 7126.14L and my average fuel consumption was 10.98L/100km - At 67114km, my total fuel used was 7354.85L and my average fuel consumption was 10.96L/100km - At 69861km, my total fuel used was 7604.57L and my average fuel consumption was 10.89L/100km

Thought I would post up the the couple of photos I took in an attempt to compare low/high beam. When out on the interstate, you can really see the difference between the low and high beams. In person, the effects are more clear but with the camera I have, I tried to compare it. I've never really had issues with the stock high beams. I have always found them to be great. My low beams are 35W 8000k HID's and my high beams are the stock 65W Toshiba HIR1 bulbs. Ignore the high ISO graininess. Only way to capture it with my camera. Relatively close to real life, just that the low beams actually are a little dimmer than what it looks like in the photo. The side markers give a good indication of distance throw: Low beam: High beam:

Of course it can be changed. I think in most production cars these days, there is always going to be someone with a fascia kit to make it possible to fit an aftermarket unit. For the Camry, the stock head unit has a custom fit to it and if you don't want to get an aftermarket unit that replicates this (such as this one) you can simply get a fascia kit for around $30 from Toyota. Part numbers as follows: Fascia: PZQ60-33030 ($30) Spacer, Left: 86221-52050 ($16.60 each) Spacer, Right - 86221-52060 ($16.60 each) Single DIN pocket: 55521-YA020 20 ($11.70) Otherwise you can get the fascia from Toyota and get the two spacers for around $20 from JB Hi-Fi.

Suck all of the old fluid out of the reservoir, top it up with new fluid, start the engine and rotate the wheel to full lock a few times, turn the engine off and repeat until you've used the bottle. That method can do the job, but its just diluting down old fluid till it's changed... and can take a while to get it completely swapped. Not that I'm saying it's a bad method, but I guess it depends on how serious you are about it. My method is to jack the front of the car up, then lay out some old rags under the front of the car and the PS reservoir (process can get messy). Then (with the car off) disconnect the power steering fluid return line from the cooling loop at the front of the car and let it drain into an old container. Try and keep the disconnected ends aimed into the container then go and turn your steering wheel from lock-to-lock (still with the car off of course) a few times or so, holding it on lock for a few seconds each time. Then connect the pipes back up and top up your PS reservoir with new fluid. Then, while leaving a funnel in the PS reservoir, have a bottle of PS fluid in hand, start your engine, then quickly be prepared to top up the reservoir as the fluid is taken from it. Once it's to the point that the fluid in the reservoir remains level, put the cap back on the reservoir and turn your steering wheel from lock-to-lock making sure that you go slow as you reach the end then gently and very, very briefly tap the stop at the end. You will hear your revs increase slightly. Make sure you don't old it at the end... just a tap quicker than a second is all you need. Once you have done one lock-to-lock of the wheel, check the level in the reservoir to make sure it is on (hot) low or above. If lower, top it up till it is on (hot) low. Then go back to the steering wheel and turn from lock-to-lock several times and then turn off your engine. From here, you can do one of two things: 1) Repeat the draining procedure. This is if you really want to flush the system. I would personally do this as PS fluid is not expensive and this is not that time consuming. Or 2) Lower the front of your car back onto the ground and top your PS reservoir up between hot low and hot full. That's my way of explaining it. As you can see, I'm not great with written instruction.

Yeah, a member for 6 days and he/she (Miz = Ms?) decided to make their first post as that. They will be going far. As well, even if you have a turbo, if you don't launch it properly or get you shifts right, the other guy is going to get a better time... and a race is a race for arguments sake. This wasn't his first run either. Only really pay attention to the time slip. They had a reaction time 1.354 seconds slower than me hence why I get a couple of car lengths ahead at the start. Their trap speed indicates good power-to-weight which is why he caught up fairly fast. But first moments cost them the race. Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load! ^ That bad 60ft shown on the time slip (together with the fact you can hear the mishift/hitting the rev limiter in the video) is a good indication of a bad launch. Didn't exactly 'cream' the Aurion did it. It's one thing to say your car is faster, but proving it is another. I'm not saying the Aurion is a faster car, I'm saying that just because your car is powerful in terms of specifications, if the driver can't drive it, then it isn't exactly as fast as it can be. On a side note, this is what I've basically been saying in my previous statements in this thread. Launching the car well is critical to getting a good ET which is all the OP is looking for. It becomes even more critical when you are putting two cars up against each other that have similar power specifications as in the end, no one really thinks about your launch because they will simply conclude which car is faster because their power specs are so similar. In the case above where I got a faster time than a Supra, this is a case where the subject matter of launching the car would definitely be brought up because the Supra clearly has more power than the Aurion. ... If you get what I mean.

This is a Toyota... you'd never get such a thing. To LOL at that statement actually: In all seriousness though, unfortunately the Camry isn't really full of hidden treasures. Nothing out of the ordinary anyways.

Hehehe. I took care this time (well that's what I'd like to think). That's why this time I added the " :P " to indicate it's was a harmless statement. In fact, I learnt about the low fuel light as a kid because my Dad would always drive the car to empty whereas my Mum wouldn't. It was also because of this that I joke around when the fuel gauge is on 'E' and say what my Dad used to say.... "E for Enough". I also was going to mention what you have said.... but I think he is aware of that judging from the: And also he posted this same statement in the 'General camry questions/answers' thread, which has an answer in response to that at the beginning. I think of all things, he is surprised that they have a low fuel warning light.

I take it this is your first car then, or you never payed attention to the car when your parents drove you around as a kid? :P Good luck on the low washer fluid warning light... even the Aurion doesn't have one.

Thanks Captain Obvious. Hmmm, it's like saying a fighter jet is faster than a commercial airliner. Unless you have an N/A Supra... then you have automatically lost.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention. Don't pay attention to your fuel consumption over the first week after fitting it. It may go out of whack at first, but a manual calculation should be more accurate. By the way, if you haven't done so, reset your ECU by going to the engine bay fuse box and pulling all the EFI fuses and waiting a few minutes or so before putting them back (doing it this way will save your radio settings). A fresh start on the ECU may fix any potential issues.

Just reading your original post, you mentioned you may need to cut away some plastic on the inside to gain width. Hopefully it's only a very small amount because the main part that reduces the width are those round bulges in there (the parts I managed to scratch up in the photo below). Unfortunately, these form part of the little pocket on the side of the console (phone/wallet pocket I use it as) and you can sand it back to only gain about 2mm at most either side I would say.

There is the chance that you can experience some power loss when the valve is closed, but each case can be different so there is no definite answer. The way I saw it in the first place is that because it is dual muffler, when closed, you have both sides to work with to free up restriction. For the record, having it closed has provided me with no abnormal times down the 1/4 mile for me to say that I have lost any power when closed. This is my car though. I'm not saying that it's different to others (which it shouldn't be), but you never know what variations you can get. As for fuel consumption, those figures did not change at all when compared to the figures prior to fitting the mufflers.

Just to make a correction, the space there is actually smaller than a singe DIN unfortunately. Not that it really matters in this case. Anyways, the closest someone here has come to utilising that space is Jeff (Hidden Taco) who previously mounted his ScanGauge there: Custom Scan Gauge 2 Mount

Adamsy and michaelweare have a similar wheel to that design and damn they are extremely easy to clean by hand. That's a definite bonus. If I was to get some 18's, I'd be getting something like this: http://www.tempetyres.com.au/products_clos...mp;part_no=1793

Good luck with it all mate. Just keep pushing at them to fix it because you know what they can be like.

To add to my previous statement before, the only case I could imagine a bonnet scoop working is if you were to get a completely new bonnet... as in shape. It's just the way the bonnet is... I can't quite figure it out. Edit: I'm thinking it might do with the fact that the bonnet seems wider than it is longer.