DJKOR

^ Hehehe. That's some wicked translation right there. Reminds me of a spambot. I thought the company was an American company when I looked at it before. I guess I was wrong.

you sure ? lol A bit of red in the bed +1 :lol: :lol:

No it doesn't make a difference because the wires in the passenger kick panel run to the boot for the reverse lights. If you read though the procedures and hints that have been said, you will see that I have recommended to connect the camera power to the reverse light (legend_of_lazz even said this in the first post here) due to the fact that it is less than a metre away, and that to connect the reverse trigger to the wire in the passenger footwell because it would be pointless to run a wire from the head unit all the way to the boot just for the reverse trigger.

Because you are going for a high beam, you should go all out and get a 50/55 watt kit. I would recommend the 4,300k as it will give you the brightest light and best range. There is no seller in particular for this kit that I'd recommend. You basically just make your own judgement based on their ratings etc. For example, this one looks to be a good one to go for: HID Xenon KIT h10 9145 9004 HB1 HB2 HB3 HB4 H13 50w/55w Does the back of your highbeam look like this? I took these three photos in the span of 30 seconds. I'm not saying that everyone can remove it quickly, but I'm saying that you shouldn't have to use tools just to remove your headlight bulbs. If you needed to use a spanner to remove your high beam, this would be a step back in design for Toyota because you can easily access the headlights without tools on the pre-facelift. This would also be the first case of me hearing about needing tools to change your headlights in any modern car.

It is a click type noise that usually follows with a buzzing type of sound? Chances are, the sound you are hearing is the electric clutch engaging on the A/C compressor and/or the A/C compressor itself.

I just laugh at all the promotional crap about parts inside the brilliant digital ballast being made in Germany, Japan, etc. Anything they can throw in to make it appealing. They could probably say it has a flux capacitor in it and some people would be none the wiser Anyways dixie, stop panicking about the legalities of it all. They are your high beams so the chance of a cop seeing it is fairly low. Plus anyways, they probably wouldn't realise that it's not an ARD approved lighting component and therefore won't issue a defect notice for it. Off-track: Removing the high beams is easy. I don't see how you could need a spanner for it.

This has been brought up here before. Just so you know... there is no extra bracing on the TRD.

After a few hundred or so kilometers of driving with the intake, all I can say is the sound hasn't gotten old yet. The note has remained the same so there is no changes in that due to ECU adjustments. As for power, just as expected... there is no change in the overall feel. I will be taking it to the 1/4 mile this coming Saturday though to make sure that I have not lost any power. I'm not expecting to get any improvements in my time. The video does no justice to the sound of it but here is a video of my car accelerating onto the highway with just the exhaust, then the second video is with the exhaust and intake: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load! Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

For the cost of a new cat, I personally think it's not worth upgrading the third cat on the Aurion. This one is rather large and should be free flowing as it is. You won't expect any gains by dropping or replacing this one. If any cat was to be swapped for a higher flow version, you should chose the first two (one on each exhaust header). Even still, I wouldn't say it's worth it unless you go for a complete system.

If everyone is good for this Saturday, that would be perfect. I'll be driving to Hunter Valley, leaving on Sunday night and won't be back for a couple of weeks.

An update on my response from ages ago:

Sorry for the thread revival, but to give an update on this, I have had reports that the red wire with silver dot is not the right wire. Since everyone seems to give up after they find it is the wrong wire, I have gone back and double checked the harness. I do apologize as this is an honest mistake, but this is why I suggest people pick up a cheap multimeter if they plan on playing with the wiring of their car. This way you can find stuff out like this without having to ask. Anyways, the wire you need to tap into is the thin red wire with no other markings on it. I have indicated this wire in the attached photos:

Just a quiet day. I finally got around to changing the dim bulb in my glove box for an LED strip. This now means that the only standard bulbs in my car are the low beams, high beams, fog lights, and indicators. Also gave her a much needed bath and then took her through the ICB a couple of times just to hear her growl. I think I'm done with the LED's for now:

Each to their own mate. I could go on with some pros of having an Asian girlfriend/wife... but I would like to keep my membership here. Personally though, I'm half-Asian and would prefer a non-Asian girl.

+1 for that as well. I would love to have those wheels. But that's more suited to our cars. Lee's is more of an elegant style and therefore the Type F would be more suitable.

Yup... 55W HID high beams win hands down.

Hey Nathan. I did actually consider getting the Fujita CAI when the time came to order my intake. I think it even worked out to be cheaper. So far the only person on this board I know to have one is Soloman, but I'm not sure what he's up to these days. I had previously seen a YouTube video of someone revving their engine with the Fujita kit on it and it did sound nice and deep with no load. I would be guessing the extra length of pipe on it would contribute to having a nice note. I think in the end, I stuck with the K&N intake because it's just a well known brand that I trust. I'm not too sure of the origins of Fujita so I guess that's what steered me away. I guess it comes down to what you really feel like having on your car.

I can't directly comment with respect to the new 'updated Auspack' head unit. All I can say is that mine has a reverse trigger on it so when you put the car into reverse, the head unit will automatically switch to the revers camera mode. I would assume the new head unit is the same, but from previous posts, I have heard conflicting answers. As for where to tap into the +12v source, the passenger side kick panel is the best spot. There is a wire there, I have indicated it before but others have had mixed results, that provides power to the reverse lights so therefore it will be +12v when the car is in reverse. This is what I used to trigger the head unit to go into reverse mode. But as I said, I can't confirm the operation of the new head unit.

That one you found on eBay should be the right one, but without checking myself (I've never looked at mine), I can't definitely confirm that. As for accessing it, you should have no issues. You just remove the trim underneath the steering wheel then you take the trim off that is in front of the speedo. After that you can remove the speedo.

Pick me, pick me.

I am aware of what a 'garnish' is. I am also aware of how the boot lid is constructed. If you have seen my post where I have removed the rear section under the number plate, you would see it is a solid piece of plastic. On the Presara, it's still one piece of plastic except its got a groove moulded into it and the chrome strip is attached to it. This chrome strip is not available separately and even if it was, it would not fit the same way. Hence you only option is to find a stick on aftermarket strip from somewhere, or replace the whole trim. Just for reference, here are all the components of the boot lid moulding. As you can see, the part underneath the number plate only listed as a single piece:

Yeah, I'm going for white all round because I've already committed to white footwell lights and like the extra "cleanliness" the white LED's give to the interior. AS for the brightness, at first it wasn't bright... until my eyes adjusted to the night. Then it became annoying. I then searched my cupboard for supplies of some SMD LED's and I was then in luck. I found my old Nokia 8250 that I put some white LED's in... perfect. I did a test run and fitted it into the "DISP" side since that only needed one LED. There was a slightish improvement, but unfortunately these LED's were quite intense as well. So I put the old LED back in and hit the drawing board. Long story short, I did a few tricks here and there... and problem solved. It's brighter than the green LED's that were there originally which is what I was wanting, but it's just the right intensity that in the dark, the dash lights overcome the brightness of it to the point that you don't notice them. Final result:

What is the possibility you could find a photo in these forums taken of my car containing the component in question? ... Fairly high. Just need to be creative. Anyways... What you have there are the brake lines and the ABS actuator. Here is a photo for you. You can see the larger fixture there and if you look hard enough, you can see the sleeving moved back a bit: Edit: Here's another: In other words, it's part of the brake line design.

I figured, why replace when you can upgrade Actually, it's only because I didn't have the same size SMD LED's around, and I'm all about the 'DIY NOW'. Ignore the crappy photos. Had to take the first one that close because it was that dim:

The turn signal flasher relay is mounted behind the speedo funnily enough. So you will have to take that out to get there. You can buy them from eBay by searching for LED flasher relay. As a matter of fact, I think Narva makes them and you can find them at places like Repco.