DJKOR

There are two RCA video out sockets at the back of the head unit. Perfect for two headrest monitors. The USB port doesn't output much power. Something around the 250mA mark (half of standard USB). This is not enough to power an external hard drive. As well, the unit can take quite a lot of time to load up if you have lots of files. Mine takes a good minute to load a 2GB USB stick filled with songs. Imagine what 320GB would do.

I used the 3M double sided tape that came pre-attached to my eyelids. Have had them on for a while now, been through many hand washes (using bristle broom to clean headlights), and survived many thousand km's. No issues whatsoever. Mine also had a perfect fit all round. The adhesive was only used a little to hold everything in shape.

I'd go with the large one for the front. If I was to secure it, I would use that black automotive silicone. Good s*** that stuff. As for the rear, there are only two holes in the boot lid, but these should be covered up by the new badge. The only thing you need to think about is how it will look with the emblem being smaller than the recessed area. May need to raise the badge up as well do the devil horns clear that recessed area as well.

As much as I like to go to the weekly meet, I will have to give this week a miss. I am going to see David Copperfield.

Not to mention his instructions mention the remote lock receiver being behind the glove box. On the Gen 6 Camry and Aurion, it's actually located in the C-pillar. I doubt those instructions will work.

Someone had a bit of time on their hands.

Spotted in the carpark here at Mooloolaba Central: A silver Supra with silver flames on the sides, riding on chrome 20's with white walls, and dropped down hard. NSW plates '4DGAME'.

The grey key is a 'valet key'. It is cut just slightly different so that if you lock your boot with the main key, the valet key can not unlock it. As well, the valet key can not be used to initiate the key programming procedure when Toyota add additional keys to your car's ECU.

They are electric. You can see the tell-tale components when looking through the 'window' where possible. Also from the design of the shell.

While this thread is running, remember the Napster commercial when they came back as a paid service: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!Just in case you want to know (ie. look up photos), the model is Franky Wedge.

That's what a remote starter is for. That way you car is locked while you start it and if it is opened without you unlocking it, the engine will stop. Most useful thing I had on my old Camry. I was a night filler at the time so when I left work at 6am in the morning, the car would be nice and toasty.

I think the bass will be enough to keep his heart beating.

They need to be more relaxed over here and lets ads like that pass for TV Here's a German one for 1HR Optical Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

It's free to do if you OR your parents/grandparents have AAMI comprehensive insurance. As well, if you are under 25 and have comprehensive cover, you will receive 10% off your premium until you turn 25 if you complete this course. Otherwise the course is $190. I was meant to do this in February. Was stuck travelling with work and couldn't do it. Been meaning to re-book ever since.

I'm not sure is this is of relevance, just from what I've heard here and there, but it's less wearing on the engine to be revving under load vs when under no load. Possibly this has some effect here such as instead of idling at 1000RPM under no load, it will be under load but a little bit higher in revs, which in turn would be better for the engine? I dunno, just a theory.

Yeah, that counts for something. I was even going to post what happened with my car on Saturday morning, but didn't think it would be appropriate.

Mainly dependent on the quality of the camera combined with the resolution of the screen. Since the screen is of a decent resolution, it would mainly be the camera. The video cable can play a part to introducing noise into the picture if not connected perfectly, but this would be introduced as a snowy effect, much like a TV with a bad antenna.

Why did you feel the need to start yet another thread. You already had 'fog light cut out' and 'Fog light cut out update' running. Anyways: That's what you call the placebo effect.

Good stuff mate. At least you were (seemed) patient with the process. Enjoy your new reversing camera then.

Well either way, so long as you have your camera powered by the reverse light (red is the +12v) and the the appropriate wire connected to ground (otherwise the white wire), you camera should be receiving power. Just double check your grounding connection and if in doubt, connect the camera ground to the white wire of the reverse light. Judging by the fact that you mentioned it said to connect it to the reverse light, means that the camera is a 12v camera so it shouldn't be a voltage issue (head unit provides 6v for a camera). Only other way to find out is to connect the camera to a TV or something with a composite video in and see if it works properly. The only way to easily tell if the camera is PAL or NTSC is to connect it to a receiver that can be forced onto PAL or NTSC and see which one it works with. Testing the camera would be a wise choice if you can. As well, as stupid as this sounds, make sure that the shield of the video lead does not come into contact with the conductor. It won't break anything, but it sure would affect the signal.

This one is getting me puzzled. There will be a way around it. It's just the fact that I'm not there to play around with it. From the looks of it, the head unit is triggered by the signal from the camera correct (ie. when the camera isn't plugged into the head unit, it doesn't show that screen)? If so, for some reason the camera is not outputting an image. Possibly power related. What colour wire did you tap into on your reverse lights?

All the details can be found here: Brisbane Meetup (Every Thursday 9pm) The meet has been shifted to start from 8pm now.

So you're saying that when you swapped the wires, the head unit didn't go into reverse camera mode? Hence meaning that it was definitely correct the first way around? What does the image look like when you mentioned a grey blur? Could possibly be that you camera is of the wrong format. It needs to be an NTSC camera and not a PAL type.

You just have to get into the habit of putting your windows up before opening your door after turning the car off. If it's just your window that needs to be put up, you can put it to auto up then open your door and the window will continue to go up. Once it hits the top though, the power is cut. It only gets annoying if you get into the habit of turning the car off, then putting the windows up, then opening you door. When you get a passenger and they open their door, you have to flick the ignition back to ON.

So you did use the red and grey wires that are between the black and white wires right? If so, you can try reversing the conductor and shield around. Before going there though, quick question. When you cut off the RCA connector, are there two conductors and a shield inside the wire (similar to the one shown below on a smaller scale)? Or is it just one conductor and the shield. Some cables that are out there consist of a twin core with shield. If this is the case, you disregard the shield and you use the inner two wires only. If you connect it and it doesn't work, reverse the wires.