DJKOR

I'm definitely thinking of keeping up an 8pm appearance. Seemed to be a bit more lively.

Okay, well I thought I'd better reply to this now that I know where my weekend is going. Sorry, but count me out for this one. This weeks budget is running a little low thanks to my new tires.

Don't tell me someone out there looks like me. I only drove as far as Indro and Sunnybank today. Unless my car has been sneaking out on me. red aurion, black plates, sports grill and eyelids. couldnt be more like u if they tried Black plates as well eh? That's starting to scare me a little now. Now I need to change my car around so that it's more original since everyone seems to be copying. On a side note, I was on the Pacific Motorway on the mornings of the 6th and 7th, but only as far as Logan. Didn't leave the house till like 12pm on the 8th when you said you spotted me. Looks like someone else is picking up on the styling as well. Soon it will be another ELEGNT floating around. Sucks when you're not unique anymore.

Last time I checked he had an Aurion (which are all autos), that third pedal is the handbrake (well, obviously not a "hand" brake anymore) Phil has driven Rowan's car before. I think he would be aware of the foot brake. Phil: You're jokes are sounding a little too serious for everyone.

Can't help you there mate. That must suck. It's funny how you hear about things like this all the time. Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

That is correct in that the old one is on the left and the new is on the right. The most obvious difference is that the old pipe has a length of rubber hose on it held together with pinch clamps, whereas the new one is a full length of pipe. Now I don't know why there is rubber hose there in the first place. Quite pointless if you ask me. If you watch the video in the first post, you will see how one little pinhole leak in the rubber hose can force out a lot of oil. This is just the least serious of the cases. In the worst case, the hose can get a larger hole in in or even tear, resulting in the oil coming out even faster. Either way, they will both drain your engine from oil, so it's not good whichever way you see it. The new pipe is one solid length from end to end. This eliminates the possibility of that leak occurring. My car still has warranty, but it's limited. In other words, because it is a flood damaged car, if any warranty related issues arise, the service department need to consult with Toyota head office to make a judgement. Something like this though would not be restricted by this since it could not have been affected by the flood damage (water did not rise up high enough to get to the engine). This was mainly done for my own peace of mind considering that my car is up to 70,000kms and this issue is known to occur not far down the track. Also as well, in about 2,000km, I plan to take this to QR for some track times and this would not be a risk I want to take. It's a known fault with Toyota but it's not a recall worthy item to them as it's not something that happens to all of the 2GR-FE's. They are only replacing them on a case by case basis, and this means that you need to prove that it is faulty and leaking oil. By the time that occurs, you may be too late. For example, if the leak occurs while you are on the highway, you're oil light isn't going to come on till the thing is nearly dry. The damage that can occur from that is not something I want to think about. I just figured for $45, I would feel safer having this changed over. I didn't expect the DIY process to be a epic b*** to do though. Either way... it's all done now.

Today I fitted her with a new oil pipe, swore at her many times, and then gave her a good bath.

LOL. I was close to giving up, but I had a look at my car up on the jack stands and thought... "I've gone this far already". I don't really expect others to actually consider doing this after seeing the process, but I do reckon there are those out there who are as crazy as me and would think about giving it a shot. At least they have a heads up now.

I know that oil filter tool that you are referring to. I don't see why it wouldn't work (just bear in mind that this style may be tighter), but I can't guarantee that it will do the job cleanly. With traditional oil filters, you could afford to wreck them on the removal process. With the one on the 2GR though, you don't want to mess it up. And that is correct. 6.1 litres on a drain and fill with the oil filter change.

I assume you have the 2GR-FE correct. To remove the filter cap you just need a standard 64mm cap-style oil filter wrench. You can find these online for around $10, otherwise just ask around some automotive stores. The 64mm ones can sometimes be harder to find. If so, the 65mm ones are said to work alright as well.

Okay then. That was an epic 6 hours (2 of which was spent sitting down with a drink while I cool off from the anger). I have swapped my oil pipe over myself and can say that if you don't have small/Asian hands, changing this over yourself is going to be interesting. Good luck if anyone with an Aurion tries this. 2GR-FE VVT-i Oil Line Replacement

You should then remove the timing gear cover as shown in the PDF above. Removing this is easiest from the top of the engine using an offset ring spanner and small hands. If you don't have small hands, this step will be REALLY difficult. The timing cover was another little obstacle along the way. Everything about this whole procedure had to be difficult. Some genius thought it would be a good idea to clip one part of the wiring loom to the top of the timing cover. The issue presented here is that it is near impossible to unclip the cable loom, let alone fit a pair of cutters into the engine bay up to that point to be able to cut the cable tie. On top of that, the loom is so restrictive that you can't pull the timing cover up far enough to give you easier access to the clip. After about 5-10 minutes of frustration, I finally managed to cut the cable tie. Then it's out with the old, in with the new: Afterwards, you just reverse the procedure. Changing the pipe over is pretty straight forward. It doesn't really take a genius, but it requires a lot of thought on how you will get the tools in there to remove the nuts and bolts. Everything is really cramped inside the engine bay and this is what makes it really difficult. Would I ever try this again? ... Not for a long time.

Basic steps to get you going should you choose to DIY. Difficulty: Frustrating Swear Factor: Extremely high Notes: I would advise to NOT do this yourself unless you have small hands and A LOT of patience. Working with the 2GR in the Aurion engine bay is not the most pleasant experience. Okay, so if you're not aware, the 2GR-FE in the Aurion (and other cars for that matter) had previously had a design fault which can lead to oil loss. The Aurion's affected are generally those that were built prior to 2009. There is quite a lot of discussion over on the Toyota Nation thread "ATTN: All 2GR-FE V6 OWNERS!!! BEWARE!!!", as well as over here in "Alert to V-6 owners - possible oil leak!". I'll let you do the reading further into those topics as this thread is here just for reference. It has been said that the leak mainly occurs anywhere between 45k to 65k miles (72k to 104k kms). Now this part replacement would be covered under warranty, but I believe that they will only change it once the leak occurs. This in my opinion is too risky as even with a small leak, you can lose quite a bit of your oil really fast. You can see just how fast the oil comes out of a pinhole leak from this video: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load! If you wanted to be safe like I am, you can purchase the replacement pipe plus gaskets for around $45 and either change this yourself, or get Toyota or another mechanic to change it for you at cost. The part numbers are: Pipe Oil No. 2 - 15772-31030 Gasket - 90430-16012 Gasket - 90430-16016 Gasket - 90430-16017 So with all that said, yesterday I purchased these parts, and today I fitted them. The general instruction to replace the pipe itself can be seen in this PDF: http://members.cox.net/n0v8or/engine_oil_drip.pdf However, getting to it all in the first place is not the easiest thing to do while the engine is still in the car. The following is just a helper guide to give you the idea. It requires that you know how to fill in the gaps in terms of basic automotive work. If you can't figure this out, don't attempt this procedure. It's not for beginners. So basically, you jack your car up and remove the drivers side wheel: Then you need to remove/put aside the power steering pump. To do this you remove the trim at the front of the wheel arch: Then you locate the automatic belt tensioner. Keeping a 5mm Allen key handy (or any other rod of solid metal that is 5mm), you place a 14mm spanner on the belt tensioner and apply pressure in the anti-clockwise direction. This is spring loaded and you will need a bit of pressure on the spanner. Once you have turned it, you will see that the hole at the bottom will line up with a gap in the engine block. You insert the Allen key here to lock it in place: You then proceed to take the belt off the power steering pump and then unbolting it, putting it to the side to give you some room:

The Camry panels are ever so slightly different, so I wouldn't go buying a Camry woodgrain replacement because it won't really work out.

Thanks Evan. For some reason, it has lost the 'sportiness' to it.

It may not be the best suited car, but it surely doesn't mean it can't perform. These cars can get pretty respectable numbers when you compare it to other sedans out there.

I've heard that it's only a warranty job when you get an oil leak that is caused by this part. I'm not going to wait till I get a leak before I get them to change it. For $45 plus some close and personal time with my car, I'll just do it myself. In terms of my progress so far, I have managed to move the belt away from the power steering pump, and taken the bolts off the pump. Now I'm stuck trying to get the pump off the engine. Seems pretty well wedged in there.

With responses like that plus being a new member, I wouldn't want to help you anymore. Good luck with your search.

Most people refer to a tank as between full, and when the fuel light comes on or the needle hits empty. So generally we are talking about a 60 litre tank. That's not too relevant though as we already calculate an average litres per 100km, which would be of more use.

So I had today off and thought that instead of wasting time, I'll tackle this job. Well... we have a slight problem... which resulted in: I'll let the photos explain. First was taken through a spacing in the power steering pump pulley: The thing that really p***s me off is the fact that you can actually reach that banjo connection with ease by putting your arm through the area where the headers are. With the pump in the way though, that bolt will only drop around about 0.5 cm. There's not even enough room to fully loosen in. There is absolutely not other way around it. The pump has to get out of the way. As well, I noticed that it's quite easy to remove the timing gear cover and then the pipe by accessing it through the wheel arch (from underneath the beam in there), but the belt seems to get in the way as well. Removing the power steering pump (and therefore clearing the belt from that area) would make this job really easy. In that tight space, the last thing I want to remove is the drive belt just to remove the power steering pump. I think I might resort to asking Toyota how much they want to charge. There's certain things I like to work on, but I have my own limits. Just thought I'd give you a heads up. Edit: Looking at the service manual, the belt tensioner doesn't seem too hard to adjust. I will look at it some more. This automatic tensioner thing is different to what I'm used to.

Not only that, there are two holes in the metal there to help align the badge. Only worth doing really if you have to repaint the boot lid or anything so you can then fill it in.

If it were for the Aurion, I would be able to tell you exactly what you need to do. If it's anything like the Aurion in terms of assembly, you would firstly remove the drivers side kick panel next to the accelerator (removing door sill can help), then you undo 2 screws/bolts at the bottom of the trim in the section that is at knee level. Once those screws are undone, the whole panel should just unclip, and from there everything else should be easy to access. Hopefully it would be something along those lines.

From 'Fuel Warning Light':

LOL. With so many ads being posted, the layout seemed like another. I think I need some sleep. Corrected my first post.

Holy s*** that is a hot Rolla. Those 19's look killer.