DJKOR

There is not much work involved to install fog lights into your Aurion by yourself. But this is my opinion and it depends on what you define as a fair bit of work. BONDIE (miss ya mate, LOL) installed a set in his and I didn't really hear an complaints from him, so it couldn't have been too bad. As for the switch, unless you change the indicator stork around to one that includes a fog light switch, you are going to have to live with a switch mounted somewhere near the steering wheel (like near the mirror controls). If you can get your hands on the appropriate indicator stork, the change over process is similar to this: Pics of my Kluger steering wheel removal Edit: Got around to reading everything fully and noticed you came across the thread: In relation to that, if you are flexible enough there is no need to remove the front bumper. By taking off the splash guards on the underside of the bumper, you can get away with fitting the fog lights through there.

Adjustments to the foot brake on the Aurion don't seem to last too long in my opinion. I think this is due to the fact that it is very easy to apply more force to the foot brake than what is really required. The amount of force you can push down with your foot is certainly a fair bit more than pulling up on a hand brake. I'm not going anywhere. If you need any help, just let me know here or PM me.

I have already looked at the wiring diagrams for the Aurion and even done measurements both voltage and logic (TTL/CMOS). The display button requires a digital circuit to process it's command and it is not as simple as just connecting wires. There is no guarantee as well than some aftermarket solution will be compatible with the digital signals required. I don't make assumptions. When it comes to things like this, I prefer to DIY. Unless you are good with reverse engineering the PCB in the stock stereo, then looking at the wiring diagram for the Aurion isn't going to help in this scenario. And that's the conclusion I came to. The controls on the Aurion do use the CAN bus and it is something that I am not willing to spend time on trying to decipher. Hey Random,my installer mate was banging on about CAN bus electrical system in the Aurion, but i have limited knowledge on this, can you dumb it down(main difference to other electrical systems) for me so maybe ive got some understanding. thanks CAN bus communication is twisted pair digital communication. Just think of it as a LAN within your car communicating with various ECU's.

This is not a problem that is specific to the Aurion. This issue can occur on ANY automatic transmission. Due to the way the 'park' selector works on the transmission, you can then experience this clunk if the car is let to roll a little once park is selected. In most cases, if you select park but don't let the car roll at all, moving out of park should be smooth. The park brake on the Aurion is partly to blame for this occurring more often than it should mainly because it lets the car roll a little before fully engaging. A good page to read would be this: HowStuffWorks "Putting a Car in Park"

you DIY? ahhhhhh noooo daryl nooo I have confidence in myself that I can do these DIY. If it turns out great I'll leave it at that. If it turns out good enough for the photoshoot, I'll get it professionally painted later. If it turns out real bad, I won't have them for the photoshoot and I'll get them done later.

Okay so I see we have a mini-meet on Friday. Regardless, can I then pick my set up from you Evan tomorrow (Thursday)? I arrive in Brisbane at around 1:00pm so I could pick it up around an hour after that. I just want to get started on painting mine.

Dyno day? Why didn't I hear about this. If I get all the details... I'm there. I don't get why Rowan gets praised for his muffler swap, yet I get crap for putting Varex on my Aurion. When my Varex is open, it is exactly the same as Rowan's 'set-up' since they are both 2.5 inch straight through mufflers when you look through them from end to end internally.

If you are braking to the extent that your ABS is activating, you are braking a little bit too much. Your ABS should only really be necessary when the road is fairly slippery or if you have to stop really quick to avoid an accident. Or you need new tires.

That's good to hear that your upgrade has helped out. Always a good system upgrade to do, especially when it is so simple to do. Most charging systems on cars will run at around 13.8v when the engine is running idle in the conditions you have stated. It is completely fine if it goes slightly above 14v initially. When I get back, I'll test to see what voltage drop I get while my system is running.

If you don't get along well with girls, and you keep having a go at guys (as demonstrated in the past), then who do you like? Anyways, without going off the thread, it's good to see your car going ahead as planned. Now get it dropped ASAP, LOL.

Woohoo. So are you going to pick them up then Rowan? If so, I'll get them off you on Thursday evening, if not I'll sort something out with Evan.

On the Aurion, getting your steering wheel audio controls to work are a little different to getting your 'DISP' button to work. For some reason, the DISP button integrates with a digital controller in the stock stereo, and when you get an aftermarket unit, it needs to have a similar controller for you to retain DISP button functionality. So far, the only guaranteed method of keeping this functionality is to get another unit that is made to work with the steering wheel controls, or to dissect the stock unit and obtain the circuit board from that. The SWI-JACK has not been known to restore DISP button functionality.

Man; your Camry is drinking down fuel. Something is definitely not right there. I drive my Aurion with a lead foot and my economy average is at a measured 11.66l/100km.

I can't wait till these arrive. Unfortunately I won't be back in Brisbane until Thursday morning. If Rowan isn't able to pick these up from you when they arrive, I will gladly pick them up from you.

If you have seen how I drive, there would be no questioning why my fuel economy is at the level that it is, and is rising a bit over time. At the time that I did that drive, I wasn't focussed on trying to obtain the best economy, so those conditions are the only ones I have for reference. I was just driving easy because I was in a really relaxed mood. I can't say that I have tried driving with different conditions because I don't remember ever doing so. If I was to say anything from all this, it would be that I am actually quite surprised that my fuel usage is at what it is. I've got no complaints there.

Since we are checking in early here, I may as well say that I will be there this Thursday. Conveniently arriving back home from Canberra that afternoon.

Well it looks to me like the Toyota standard cruise control stork that they currently use. I would say that if it does actually work (in that the ECU is there for it), it will be a proper cruise control that can adjust the throttle appropriately. If the ECU is not in place, it will not operate at all. I HIGHLY DOUBT that it will be a fixed throttle control if the ECU is currently present.

In a way you are lucky to have a white car when using the NXT 2.0 wax. The one thing that really annoys me about the NXT is that it has a greasy finish to it and requires a fair bit of buffing to make it smooth. You would think everything is fine in daylight, but then night comes and you can see an oily looking finish under the moonlight. On a darker colour car you really notice this, but on a lighter colour it blends in. Regardless, it is a great wax for a deep shine. The NXT 2.0 wax isn't as durable as a carnauba wax but if you were after the look and not so much the protection, then it is worth the effort of frequent re-application. In answering the first question, no it does not strip off previous layers of wax. This specific wax is able to be layered on for a more durable finish. For best results, you should wait 12 hours between re-application but for a majority of people, this is not really an option. If you don't really have the time and would like to do a second (or third layer), wait at least two hours after the first bufffing so that it can get some time to cure a little.

LOL at this quote. Looks like you did end up going. I can see that you were trying to sell stuff and were posting just general comments to build up your post count. Seriously though, I don't see any issues with the Buy and Sell rules here. If you support the community with some decent posts, then we will support you and let you sell stuff here. The only people that would complain about this are those that have no intention of helping others and are more interested in just selling their stuff. If you think the rules suck, just go to another forum that you say you can post whatever you want on... or buy your own hosting and start your own forum. People can be so hard to understand sometimes.

The 'negative terminal' of your alternator happens to be the metal casing of the alternator itself. As the body of the car is one big grounding point, it makes sense for the alternator to use this as its ground.

Well my car is very clean because I installed those footwell lights on a Thursday which happens to be my car cleaning day. I like to keep a clean car that feels like new.

I used to have a pic of it but can't find it. Anyways, the only difference between the TRD floor mats and the standard Aurion floor mats is that there is 'TRD' written on a metal plate instead of the word 'Aurion'. Same deal with the Sportivo mats. I wouldn't say they are worth it but if I had a TRD Aurion, I wouldn't want to put the standard Aurion mats in mine. I'm just picky with things like that though. Edit: This is about the best example I have to show what I meant about the 'TRD' text: And to give an idea on positioning, these are what the Sportivo mats are like (mind the blurry photo, my camera is charging at the moment so I won't take another):

Aren't the photo's descriptive enough? Personally I think it looks wrong. It looks like the Aurion wanted to try a threesome with a Maybach Exelero and an Audi R8. and forgot to use protection.

I would most definitely want to come along. I just hope I will be in Brisbane at the time that this will be planned for. Oh wells, back to packing for me. Heading to Canberra tomorrow. Also gotta take my mind off the fact that when I return, I will need to sort out a new windscreen. Bloody trucks.

KYOTO brand tires... not a brand you hear off a lot when it comes to passenger cars. The fact you were told that they were cheap would be one indication of the lacking grip. Tires aren't something you should really skimp on. When you consider that they are responsible for holding you to the road, you should at least get a decent set. I'd assume you meant Kumho not Kumbo. Depending on the tires at the given price, I would lean towards the Falken but without the specific design tire, it would be hard to make a judgement.