DJKOR

I would highly vote 'Hiro' as well due to his knowledge. I'm not sure if he would be up for being a mod, but he is someone I would like to see as one. So that's: 1) mick.wheelz - A controversial choice, but he can change his ways. He's always active on the board which I find is good for a moderator*. Also very knowledgeable on mechanics. 2) Hiro - Always able to settle a discussion with lots of uninformed answers by providing the real facts. 3) BG Pete - Been a good friend both on and off the forum and always offering to help a hand. 4) Myself - I don't like the idea of voting for myself, but I am offering my assistance should you chose to accept it. On a side note, all the above are TOC Supporters. While this isn't really something I would call a requirement for a mod, being a supporter shows their support for the free service that is provided to all of you here. * When I was moderating the boards, some of you may not have noticed, but due to the fact that I am around fairly often (this forum is my homepage), there were may spam threads I got to before anyone would really even seen the thread.

Buy yourself a multimeter. Even a $7.95 one will do the trick (so long as you don't intend on using it for reasonable accurate stuff). They are handy to have in situations like these.

When you are testing the +12v line for your amp, where are you sourcing the ground from (as in what are you touching with the negative lead of the multimeter)? If you are sourcing your ground from the negative terminal of the amplifier, I would try connecting your negative lead of your multimeter to another piece of bare metal on the car body. If you then read 12v, I would be checking to see how well you have grounded your amplifier.

My rant for the day... City parking (in this case the Myer Centre). I know parking in the city is always going to be expensive during the day, but this pricing structure is just crap: 0-20 minutes: $6 20-30 minutes: $12 30-60 minutes: $19 What's more annoying is that from the moment oh enter, you spend about 6 minutes finding a park and then a further 5 minutes locking up and catching a lift to where you are going. Then when you leave, you take about 5 minutes getting a lift into the carpark and getting to your car, then a further 3 minutes to get to the exit lanes. So at this point you have wasted 19 minutes for nothing. When you get to the exit lanes though, of the 3 lanes that are there, only 1 is open. To add to that, the silly b**** behind the counter is moving slower than 2 seniors ****ing. By the time you give her your ticket, another 6 minutes have passed. That's now 25 minutes wasted. So basically, you go there to pick something up which takes 5 minutes to do, you end up paying $19 for parking. FFS.

I'd vote mick.wheelz. I'd only take the job up again under the following conditions: - People vote for me to take the position (think seriously guys. I know some of you hate me) - I can get more advanced moderator rights because there were some fairly crucial moderating tasks I could not perform (ie. people spamming in the 'New Members Forum' which a normal mod can't moderate).

That was Nathan (FI76RE). He has a bit of kit in that car being a rural firefighter.

Yeah mate. Speed. I was working till 4am this morning and was woken again at 7am. It was a big couple of days. On top of that, I think it would potentially throw a code more likely because even with disabling traction control through the pedal combo, running it on the dyno still gives a check engine light. It clears after a couple of k's though.

I LOL'ed. Went something like this. <Reads Ash's comment> Hahahahaha. So true you stupid TRD.

The Australian forums here isn't quite the market for such a product. We have things like car bra's which are suited more just for limited coverage on the front end of the car and high impact areas. There is a special film which can also be applied instead. Sounds to me like you need something like the following, but with more film cut to cover a greater area of your car: http://www.automotivearticles.com/Clear_Bra_3M.shtml http://www.ducoscratch.com.au/clear_car_bra.asp

This isn't an accessory. It goes between the spoiler itself and the boot lid. Pretty much think of it as a gasket.

That's a bit of a bugger about the 555 circuit. Probably better than my skill though. When I tend to build a circuit from plans, it never works like it should. Correct. But I think if you run your Aurion on the dyno, you should still disable the TC via the traditional method. Why? How the heck can the dyno operator check your RPM speed?

It was never indicated by him however that this definitely WASN'T done. For all we know, it could have actually been swapped for the revised part but was not fitted absolutely correctly. Just sayin'.

I think that was directed at me mate. Mick, the RA65 has manly edges... it passes.

Mick... If I saw you driving around in an MX-5, I would question your sexuality. Yes the car is more fun... but some things you need to make an exception. But everyone is always going to think differently.

I wouldn't exactly say the MX-5 is "cooler" on the streets, but each to their own. And the RWD vs. FWD argument for the sake of what it is rather than what it can do... I will stay out of that one.

I find it funny (and sad) how they make you pay to get a standard issue Black and white plate.

Holy crap that's some skill. That's some nice work there.

Okay, the last part of my TC switch is finished. In my opinion, the illumination of the button just wasn't enough of an indication to let you known that traction control is disabled. Following the suggestions from Steven to mount an additional LED in the cluster instead of utilising the existing one, I mounted a green LED in behind the traction control indicator position as well as the ABS indicator position just as a reminder. I was going to opt for an orange LED to keep it looking factory, but I settled for green in the end just to add a little bit of distinction between the two And that now marks the completion of that project. Just a quick video for reference which also shows the fail-safe automatic turn-on: Total modification cost: $64.05. Total time spent: Way too much. Easily more than a few hours. That was with a lot of mucking around though. Can be done more cost efficiently if different components are used or sourced alternatively. Most expensive component in this one for me was the switch which was $14.50. I obtained everything I needed from Jaycar, so that also explains the cost, but at least you can see that the parts are easy to obtain. Edit: You know what I just thought of that would make you so furious that all you could do is laugh? What if all you needed to do to turn off traction control is short out two pins on the Skid Control ECU or ground one of them?

I've got an idea that can make it plug and play, but the bits I need would most likely have to be sourced to some factory in China. If I could, it could make one really neat solution. Steven: I decided to take your idea and mount an LED indicator on the dash. I had a neat thought, but as expected, Toyota use ground switching for the dash indicator LED's. I picked up a couple of tri-colour LED's (red/green/orange) and the idea was to have it go green when the TC override is enabled and if for any reason the dash needs to give a warning light there, the red component of the LED would light up as well, effectively giving the orange colour. This way I can see if there is a warning light should it occur. But due to the common cathode of the LED, it makes it impossible to work it this way.

Both actually: Which is a little misleading because despite the fact that E10 fuel can be the equivalent octane rating of premium unleaded, it is only usually around 94-95 octane... not the 98 that the TRD says is the minimum.

Now it's time for the longevity test. I wish I opted for an electronic circuit because that way I could use a proper button like you. Laziness got to me though unfortunately. So... time now to build that interceptor connector I discussed with you earlier and to sell it as a mod

I thought there was some kind of logic to it as well (ie. it will default to fresh if the inside/outside temperature is hotter than the setting), but then I realised that my temperature setting is always on low and even in 35 degree heat, it still defaults to recirc.

My Aurion used to remember what setting I had my fresh air switch set to (I never have AUTO turned on). After a few months though, it stated to forget that and now it always defaults to the recirc setting. I don't think there is a valid explanation for it mate. I think it just has no logic.

I think xoom was referring to the stock handling aspects of the car when combined with FI. It's a bit of a bugger this happened, but at least it gives you the opportunity to build it stronger.

So.... maybe wise for others to play it safe on stock internals?