DJKOR

Far from it. Welcome BTW.

No. The prices are actually marked up before you even make mention of it. That's the whole idea behind of being able to get a better price when paying with cash. There is a bunch of other negative words I could say about GE Money and retailers that deal with them but... I don't want anything to bite me in the a**.

fuel miser was really onto something when he made his comments with all this. Realistically, for all the people here that are saying one particular fuel gives them better economy, how accurately can you actually prove that. With the amount of variation in the figures between different types of fuels, it could easily be a number of other factors contributing to the different fuel consumptions... not to mention the accuracy of the measurements. On top of that, those that say they can 'feel' the improved response and/or power when running 95/98... can you really prove it?

GE Money is the devil . Nah... for those that use the interest free finance appropriately, it is quite good. Just bear in mind though that they usually charge just that little bit extra when you pay with finance like that due to the Merchant Service Fees that GE will charge them. I used to have to deal with merchants/customers over the phone and heard/saw how much they try to rip you off.

I wouldn't be surprised if this all came down to cheap VOIP infrastructure utilised by Lebara to enable their international calls. Use crap hardware, you get crap results.

Mine comes fairly close :P But the more I keep seeing that IS350 commercial... the more I want it.

It's like asking why someone's brakes squeal more than another's, or why someone may get more creaks and rattles than another... even though the car seems identical. Despite what it would seem, there are slight variations between each car. On top of that, environmental factors can play as well. Temperature of the fluid, the condition of the fluid, the state of the braking system before the self test, and other variations. I wouldn't say the sound makes the car seem 'cheap' though. If you think that's the case then so be it, but really... that's just some serious nitpicking.

Since you 'can't search' using the easy interface of the mobile site: Amp + Sub in stock 6 CD stacker. doable? Aurion ATX audio upgrades

First issue would be cost. I'm not 100% sure what you would be looking at for such a film if it exists, but I'm sure it would cost a bit. But secondly... and much more importantly is that it won't work. Most modern automotive glass is UV cut which blocks up to 95-97% or so of UV-B and about 35% of UV-A. Problem here is that a window tint goes on the inside of the window, and photo-chromatic coatings react to UV light.

They mean crystal clear as in clarity. It still has a percentage tint to it.

Just for reference, out of the models stated on Wikipedia that have the 2RZ-FE (DOHC) engine, it was the Hiace from the years specified that had the 2ZR / 2ZR-E engine in it. Edit: Well, guess I didn't really need to say that. Looks like he is 'finished'. That was a little harsh, but in all honesty though, the answer can be found in research.

I don't think the rule is stupid. Personally I think you are stupid if you think that tinting your windscreen (below the specified area) is a good idea. I wouldn't want you on the road near me. That's my opinion though so try not to take it personally.

I bet if you dropped the oil after 5000km or so, it would still look about the same.

Pulled from the other thread we have going, here is the follwing factory specifications: Wheel alignment specs Now my data is probably useless because I had the offset castor bushes which can probably also play a role on the other specifications, but regardless, I will post them for reference. These were two of my good and only alignments I had to get... after the one that Toyota did. The first one was pretty much perfect for day to day driving, but the second one was done for the track (I requested +0.5mm toe all round) and this was still perfect for everyday driving but was even better than the previous settings when taken into the twisties.

I haven't got much of a technical answer to that one, but I found that at least 1500-2000km of normal/non-aggressive driving led to longer life out of my RE001's than a set that was driven hard after only a few hundred km of normal driving. But that could come down to any number of factors including the way I thought I was treating the tires.

Show off :P Nice shots, but I would have to truthfully say that it's not the actual photography component I'm paying attention to.

I would... but then I lack the bench to put it on. Any bench in the house is not suitable for a vice. Plus the garage wasn't really designed to accommodate much more than the two cars. I make do with what I've got. I've gotten this far without certain tools and equipment. Maybe when I save up some decent cash I will invest on a better garage layout.

Fixed to make you happy. Damn imperial. Yes, I have heard of such contraption. If you could find one in my garage though, I'd give you $50. Some people have a limited range of tools you know.

This is correct as most automotive glass does in fact block UV light. That said, there are some things to understand. Automotive glass in most modern cases can block up to about 95-97% of UV-B light. This is the majority of the UV light that can cause sunburn/cancer etc. As well, it also blocks a smaller percentage of UV-A light at about 35% or so. UV-A light can contribute towards skin cancer etc, but it is the UV-B that is said to cause the most effects. UV-A has been said to cause it's effects due to penetrating the skin more, but not via direct damage like sunburn. I'm not here to question all that... you can research that further if you want. Getting a window tint that is mean to block UV light should hopefully block the UV-A light transmission even further (effectively blocking as much as UV-B). The quality and specification of the film though will determine how much of this it does block.

I was hoping so, because once upon a time he did say this: I figured if he considered using it, then it has to pass his standards. Bugger I didn't think about all this on Thursday night when I could have asked.

Now thats interesting. What size do you use...but i doubt that would be the case. I have also personally seen it rated at 220, unless i was dreaming it (no...) ... Now unless they have changed...mmmm...... *confused* My last sets (215/55R17 and 225/50R17) both had a treadwear rating of 220. Interesting. Because I have said that before as well: whats the treadwear, traction, temperature rating for the Potenza Adrenlin? any other changes like tyre dimensions or wheel? Sorry, I got your PM before I saw this thread. Some of us were at the National Meet so cut me a little slack on the reply timeframe :P I'll post it again here for others to see anyways. For the Potenza Adreanalin: Treadwear 220 Traction A Temperature A

April next year... not long left... man, my oil was last changed at the end of August. I was about to buy the HPR5 because everyone was taking about it, but stopped when I read on the package that it was a semi-synthetic. I'm not expecting it to feel any different to how it was before I changed the oil. Realistically I doubt there would be any difference anyway.

Thought I would post this here because you may find this of use. This is the second time I have had to do this after a Toyota service. Damn mechanics thinking you need to do the cap up with Hulk force. Use foot to hold the socket drive steady and use two hands (depending on how tight it is) to pull upwards on the oil filter wrench (can be had for like $5-10 at a cheap auto store). Ooops. I revealed my oil filter removal tool Doesn't mean I recommend using it to remove the oil filter. There is a technique you need to use to make sure it doesn't mark or scratch your oil filter cap.

Now I know I said next oil change I will use the Fuchs GT1 PRO C3 and this oil change would be the final oil type that will be used for the rest of the life of this car with me. Well... didn't that plan change. Today I wanted to do my oil change and instead of going down to order some of that Fuchs, I decided to change my plans. I am now using Penrite SIN 0. I hope I made the right choice. I was tossing up between this or Mobil 1, but in the end this was my final decision. I'm still a little concerned with it at the moment as per my following quoted post, but I guess I will see how it goes:

Well today I started off at about 1am with a high-speed bedding-in of my front EBC Red Stuff. EBC recommended to drive with light brake usage for the first 500 miles or so then once you are confident that it has mated well, then to do a moderate speed bed-in. Boy were these pads noisy as f*** during the first 600km or so, but the other week I did a moderate speed bed-in and it reduced the squeals by what I would estimate to be greater than 50%. After that though, it still squealed every so often... but even worse was that it squealed on and off while cruising down the highway. Such an embarrassment. So this morning I did a high-speed bed-in and I would say that this has further reduced the remaining squeals by more than 75%. The highway squealing seems to be gone now... hopefully. Then, because I didn't get around to fitting my rear pads the other day, I figured I would get to that today. I also figured I would do a little more. So in addition to the pads I got the other day, this is what else I picked up: Now while and after buying the oil, I got this really odd feeling. Not the feeling like I spent way more money than I should have (my poor bank account), but the clearly obvious 'issue' that can be seen from the packaging of the oil. Those that know the Aurion know that they recommend a 10W-30 oil. Now I'm not expert in oil, but a 0W-50 oil doesn't really seem like something I would normally consider putting in my car where it recommends a 10W30. Penrite are a little funny though from the looks of it. It would seem that this oil is actually a 0W-40 because of that 'Extra ten' thing, but it still has me a little conscious. It does say on it's packaging that it is suitable for use where a 10W30 oil is recommended, and this is the oil that they have under their recommended oils list on their site for this car. I'm guessing though that I'm probably not the first because they had a Penrite document attached to the shelf where the oils are explaining the oil weights etc with respect to protection. I'm still a little conscious of this not being a good oil, but regardless, I still got it. So I guess I will soon find out.