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Posted (edited)
Hey guys I was lookin at changing my 6x9s over in the Camry, I have the sat nav flip down headunit

and was just wonderin if I just change the speakers over will they sound ok running off the standard headunit?

I got told they would sound similar to standard off the headunit unless I ran a amp?

What experiences has anyone had out there with just swappin em over

Cheers

If you know how much RMS per channel the head deck puts out on each channelthat is very handy. I know the issue with old stock head decks was that they didn't put out much power. Most head decks these days put out a min of about 40w thru each channel. This is not RMS. Correct me if I'm wrong but RMS is roghly Wattage divided by 3. RMS is a more accurate measurement of power.

Depending on the speakers you purchase is how well they will perform. purchasing something that runs at 200w is not necessary unless you are running amplifiers. And if the speakers you purchase say Nominal 200w, they are useless. That means normal running rate these speakers need 200w to work well..Your stk speakers would have done a better job, or if they are an expensive set, will sound the same/meagre imprvements.

I have found when using the existing head deck, the punch series rockford fosgates seem to be a great speaker. Not requiring large amountsof power, but the peak rate is unbelievable for some which means if you do want to amlify your speakers it's possible.

Mind you. The cheapest way to do it is to purchase a line convertor. Cut the wires frm your speakers, wire the amp up to those wires, and then purchase a cheaper set of speakers that run off amps :P Make sure the amp you purchase has a line out, and then you can simply add on extra speakers with extra amps ;D

Edited by Jeriko

Posted (edited)

Hey,

Anybody know whether or not these Kenwood speakers would fit in the Aurion with no interference to the window, door trim or boot spring?

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Edited by Stylusion
Posted
has anyone measured the depth of the front doors?

between the window down and the speaker mount?

Has anyone followed up on these measurements? plus the boot measurements to the boot springs?

Posted
Hey,

Anybody know whether or not these Kenwood speakers would fit in the Aurion with no interference to the window, door trim or boot spring?

i've got Focal fronts mounting depth is 73mm or 2 7/8''

and rear Focals mounting depth is 70mm or 2 3/4''

prolly could go about 10mm deeper on fronts and maybe 10mm-15mm deeper on rears if ya want.

someone at TOCAU can't recall who,has the Focal 690CVX rears and there mounting depth is 93mm or 3 2/3'' but i'm not sure if any mod was done to the boot springs or parcelshelf?

hope this helps. :)


Posted (edited)

Hey guys, have you not heard of Vibe speakers?? www.vibecaraudio.com.au I jujst did a complete refit into my Dodge Nitro and man the sound is awesome! Im about to do the same when we pick up the wifes new Aurion SX6..no subs tho, just some Vibe SE-K 6x9.

In my Nitro I ran Black Air 6" component splits all round and a evo black air active enclosure with 2x12" black air subs and built in amp, 3200watts and man ...more bass than you can handle!

Check out the Vibe range, pretty good bang for buck, they are only new to Australia and will smash Pioneer, Kenwood, Focal, Fustion all day anyday!

Ive also learned they are bringing in the new supercar range of speakers, these are slim line speakers for low depoth installs, I am sure i heard the Audi factory use these for premium sound upgrades in the uK.

These are the splits:

247_Black_Air_6_1362977842.JPG

These are the subs

mid_vibe-blackair15.jpg

This is the box with amp

b_evoactivetwin12_2.jpg

Edited by Jaskel
Posted

show me proof these will smash quality Focal splits?

and i love how ya put Focal in the same bracket as kenwood & pioneer. :lol:

Fustion or is this Fusion?

anyway ya system in the Nitro sounds great,put some pics up so we can have a squiz.

Posted

come on man, look at the time i posted that..it was late and my spelling is crap when its late..lol

I was chatting to the guys where I got my vibe gear (who I know well) he said a guy blew a set of 2K focal splits and they chucked the Black air 6" in, the guy said they sound better than his focals!

So I had a listen on a demo board (obviously some differences to being in a car) and then I listened to the vibe in a demo board and i have to say, the Vibe where alot clearer with a stronger bass sound also than the focal....no BS, I know u prob love ur focal judging by ur avatar but im not debating that Focal are good speakers...im just saying this new Vibe brand is coming thru and hammering alot of traditional brands. In USA they are huge as they are in their home country of UK.

Some pics of my Nitro, im going to get a db reading this week, but u can only have it up for about 5 mins and it starts to hurt my ears..lol:

May09018.jpg

May09024.jpg

May09027.jpg

SUBS007.jpg

SUBS014.jpgSUBS022.jpg

Posted

they look the goods(Vibe speakers & subs) can't say i've heard em yet but if i get a chance i give ya my verdict. ;)

whats the mounting depth on the front splits?

anyway good luck in the DB test hope ya have no dramas like i did,blew an amp a couple of years back doing a test in my Peugeot 306 it was doing 148db until it blew,still remember the smell :(

and yeah ya spot on,ya can only turn a good system UP REAL LOUD for a while before you and ya car start to feel the pounding,physically and mentally,148db in the Pug hurt like a bugger so it didn't stay up full boar for long. B)

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
If anyone is interested I can scan the adaptors into a PDF document and upload them somewhere so people can simply print off the template and then cut them out from MDF. I used 6mm for the base piece and 16mm for the upper piece. It is solid and tight, nothing gets through it. Oh do yourself a favor before you install new speakers, buy a pack of Dynamat Extreme Door kit. Even with the stock speakers it makes all the difference in the world!

Hi there

I'd be keen to see some templates for these adapters, but cannot see anywhere where this may have happened. I did see references to some Camry ones on the ToyotaNation website, but the images are no longer there.

Anyone have any templates online yet?

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Just a question regarding airbags (and yes, this is on-topic!). What risk/effect is there in ripping off the c-pilar trims to get the parcel shelf out? The trims bear the 'SRS Airbag' mark. Does removing these trims include any risk of setting off/stuffing up airbags?

My assumption is no, because surely having the airbags inflate and blast off these trims towards someone's head would make the airbag kinda redundant. But I think it better to be safe than sorry, and I'd rather ask a silly question here than have the expense of having an airbag reset.

Forgive my ignorance, but I've not had experience with airbags before (my last car was a CE Lancer Coupe, and it doesn't have one of the lowest safety ratings in the country for nothing!).

Posted
Just a question regarding airbags (and yes, this is on-topic!). What risk/effect is there in ripping off the c-pilar trims to get the parcel shelf out? The trims bear the 'SRS Airbag' mark. Does removing these trims include any risk of setting off/stuffing up airbags?

My assumption is no, because surely having the airbags inflate and blast off these trims towards someone's head would make the airbag kinda redundant. But I think it better to be safe than sorry, and I'd rather ask a silly question here than have the expense of having an airbag reset.

Absolutely no risk at all. The only pillar that you need to be worried about is the A-pillar. It is attached at the top with a special clip that lets the pillar cover pop forward about an inch so the curtain airbag can get through. You can't physically remove the A-pillar without cutting this clip and then replacing it.

The C-pillar on the other hand doesn't pop off in the even of the side curtain airbag inflating. You just take these off and clip them back on. Bear in mind, there are about 6 or so clips that hold it on, and if you are unlucky, you will loose one or two of these, but nothing that you can't fish out.

Posted

Does anybody think there's quite a bit of sound deadening on the Aurion? I have a 750wrms sub in the back, and when the boot is open it goes pretty loud and low, but when the boot is shut there's just rattle, hardly any bass there at all. Inside the car it is also not as impressive as I would expect it to be - NOTHING compared to an open boot. I'm actually a bit worried to crank it too high as I don't know what the factory speakers can handle and I'm worried I blow them, or damage something else with all the rattle but the still there is not enough sound coming in.

Posted
Does anybody think there's quite a bit of sound deadening on the Aurion? I have a 750wrms sub in the back, and when the boot is open it goes pretty loud and low, but when the boot is shut there's just rattle, hardly any bass there at all. Inside the car it is also not as impressive as I would expect it to be - NOTHING compared to an open boot. I'm actually a bit worried to crank it too high as I don't know what the factory speakers can handle and I'm worried I blow them, or damage something else with all the rattle but the still there is not enough sound coming in.

the rear parcel definately needs to be sound deadned... when i had my speakers changed out, i had the rear shelf dynamated, both on the plastic shelf and the metal. then we siliconed the shelf to stop any rattles... so far so good, i can crank my system running off a alpine amp as loud as i can audiabily stand and theres still no rattle.

Posted
Does anybody think there's quite a bit of sound deadening on the Aurion? I have a 750wrms sub in the back, and when the boot is open it goes pretty loud and low, but when the boot is shut there's just rattle, hardly any bass there at all. Inside the car it is also not as impressive as I would expect it to be - NOTHING compared to an open boot. I'm actually a bit worried to crank it too high as I don't know what the factory speakers can handle and I'm worried I blow them, or damage something else with all the rattle but the still there is not enough sound coming in.

Actually, quite the opposite. I reckon there is not enough sound deadening on the Aurion (though I like it that way :P).

I get what you mean though. You have to remember that within the car, you have both the parcel shelf and rear seat in the path of the bass before it gets to you inside the car.

It's not going to be anything like a hatchback, but there is only so much you can do.

On the sound deadening topic, from my knowledge, I believe the lack of sound deadening will partially cause you to have less bass inside the car. The reason for this is because any surface exposed to the bass that is allowed to flex (even that which can't be seen) will absorb the bass. By using sound deadening, you reduce this flex and improve the amount of bass that is transferred.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

does anyone know what the standard high pass filter on the dash tweeter is set to? Looking just to do a drop in replacement with something aftermarket, but they look like they'd play alot lower than regular tweeters (ie be half midrange)

Posted
does anyone know what the standard high pass filter on the dash tweeter is set to? Looking just to do a drop in replacement with something aftermarket, but they look like they'd play alot lower than regular tweeters (ie be half midrange)

Only two ways to find out because this is not a published value.

1) Take out the crossover and test it electronically, or

2) Disconnect front and rear speakers (from the speaker itself) and put in a test tone CD to see where the tweeters begin to roll-off.

Posted

Something must be amiss here

I've removed the front tweeter assembly - the factory tweeter is roughly 4ohm.

The capacitor in series with it, is rated at 25v 3.3uf

Now unless my figuring is completely wrong, this puts the factory Hi-pass filter at around 12000hz! Here I thought that large style tweeter, looking more like a midrange, would be around 1000hz - this would explain why the factory stereo sounds "warm" but not very detailed, instead it's the opposite.

Is my figuring wrong peoples?

Posted (edited)

done a fair bit of research, and I think I'll use 10uf capacitors and a 0.3Mh Inductor to get a crossover around 3khz on a 12db/octave slope.

Should get a much better overall response. I'm using mini XT-25 tweeters, and even using the factory capacitor they sound great. Modified them to be as factory fit as possible, all that's left is to create a mounting bracket and they're done.

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Edited by Steven
Posted

Just wondering if these speakers will be ok. Which one will be the best to run without amplifier?

one

two

three

four

Any help will be appreciated.

Posted
Just wondering if these speakers will be ok. Which one will be the best to run without amplifier?

one

two

three

four

I'm not sure about the maximum depth so I can't comment about fit, but I do have the following to say.

Personally I would not run 2 ohm speakers directly from the head unit unless it is made to run with them. 2 ohm speakers will cause the amplifier of the head unit to run hotter than normal and without sufficient cooling (which can be difficult in car), can shorten the life of the head unit. So I would rule out options 1 and 3.

Now to choose from options 2 and 4, I would choose option 4 if you want to get better frequency response (has a wider frequency range) or option 2 if you want to have that slightest bit more efficiency which would translate to slightly better volume.

Posted (edited)

Thank you for fast reply.

I have narrowed my choice to these:

Speakers plus amp

i also thought about Similar Pioneer setup.

Edited by czaja74
Posted
Thank you for fast reply.

I have narrowed my choice to these:

Speakers plus amp

Well now that you are going to run your speakers off an amplifier, you can now choose a 2 ohm speaker. This will give you a higher power output.

Posted

If you are going to run an amp, you can expand your search to perhaps include some lower efficient speakers - considering power won't be an issue.

Also a decent component set of speakers is worth considering as well, especially if an amp will be thrown in the mix - generally they tend to have a smaller mounting depth than 6x9s anyway.

Posted (edited)

Even more choices :blink: . I was wondering if you could recommend a nice setup from HERE. I was thinking about JBL component speakers for the front and 6x9 rear plus JBL amp. I'm after something that will give a good sound quality (doesnt have to be loud loud).

Edited by czaja74

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