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how to reset the ecu/enigine light on 2007 model


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Hi guys, do we have a topic that to reset the new corolla ecu and remove the engine light ??? my engine lights came up with no reason? but the car goes well.

I appreceiate your help?

Thanks

Edited by chopin
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if it's a NEW corolla...

why don't you just bring it back to the dealer...

thanks Pal, I just reset the battery and worked . I think after airitake mod I must reset battery. The computer got confused with the new flow speed?..I will update to see what it went after todays driving.

It due 1100km service this week, but I am stuck with work ....

Thanks

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Hi guys, do we have a topic that to reset the new corolla ecu and remove the engine light ??? my engine lights came up with no reason? but the car goes well.

I appreceiate your help?

Thanks

The engine light doesn't come up for no reason. You should have taken it to toyota so they could tell you what the cause of the CEL was before you reset it.

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Hi guys, do we have a topic that to reset the new corolla ecu and remove the engine light ??? my engine lights came up with no reason? but the car goes well.

I appreceiate your help?

Thanks

The engine light doesn't come up for no reason. You should have taken it to toyota so they could tell you what the cause of the CEL was before you reset it.

Thats what warranty is for, enjoy not paying stuff while you can! :rolleyes:

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Yeah best idea would've been going to toyota, and seeing you don't have much k's on the car, you'd want to make sure everything is going good..don't miss your first service!

thanks everyone. After reset the battery, the engine lights came up after about 60km. So I am taking my car to the dealer.

My thought was if you do install a CAI and you need to reset the ecu..obviously it does not work on this car...

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I can see Toyota wanting to charge you for a new airbox :P

Which is more than the price of a CAI at around $400 !

Just what exactly did you do when you 'blueprinted' your airbox?

Just opening up the airbox and you see two havels. Inside the airbox in theory SHOULD be smooth as. When mass production they dnt remove any fins or supporting grills inside the airbox, so I physically removed them and sand it back as smooth as I can. I do the same with the air tube that has AIr mass sensor attached to it. I removed all the fins and grills inde with out touching the AFsenser-may be my mistake . As the result, I dropped my fuel consumption from 6.9l/100km to 6.1 at city driving around 2-3000rpm for the last 4 weeks. I think, the ecu CAN not keep up with the extra flow and effeciency I created???

My question is, now, the car uses less fuel, does it mean better or it means less air is consumed therefre LESS POWER than stock??? or its vice versa. Less fuel is required for the same effort. Could the car run much learner now??

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removing the airflow straighteners in the intake tube is a bad move. They're put in place to ensure you get the correct amount of airflow through the MAF element. The new corolla's are very touchy in terms of how far out the sensor readings can be before the ECU flags a CEL.

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removing the airflow straighteners in the intake tube is a bad move. They're put in place to ensure you get the correct amount of airflow through the MAF element. The new corolla's are very touchy in terms of how far out the sensor readings can be before the ECU flags a CEL.

Roll mod, i think you are dead right. So without tell them....I think I need to buy a new tube.....dammm. Any idea how much is it costs?

I am picking up my car this aftrernoon...

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removing the airflow straighteners in the intake tube is a bad move. They're put in place to ensure you get the correct amount of airflow through the MAF element. The new corolla's are very touchy in terms of how far out the sensor readings can be before the ECU flags a CEL.

Roll mod, i think you are dead right. So without tell them....I think I need to buy a new tube.....dammm. Any idea how much is it costs?

I am picking up my car this aftrernoon...

I got the car back now. It will cost me 355$ to repalce the original flow tube plus airflow meter and Half of the air box. But I have solved the crises and consulted with Hilcone-fuel saver in autralia. I add a hiclone just after the flow meter and it seems be working and goes stronger. The reason for less fuel used was due to a betetr flow and no reading at low speed-caused by turbulence...so evrything is working..cheers

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removing the airflow straighteners in the intake tube is a bad move. They're put in place to ensure you get the correct amount of airflow through the MAF element. The new corolla's are very touchy in terms of how far out the sensor readings can be before the ECU flags a CEL.

Roll mod, i think you are dead right. So without tell them....I think I need to buy a new tube.....dammm. Any idea how much is it costs?

I am picking up my car this aftrernoon...

I got the car back now. It will cost me 355$ to repalce the original flow tube plus airflow meter and Half of the air box. But I have solved the crises and consulted with Hilcone-fuel saver in autralia. I add a hiclone just after the flow meter and it seems be working and goes stronger. The reason for less fuel used was due to a betetr flow and no reading at low speed-caused by turbulence...so evrything is working..cheers

I have further consulted with hiclone. and they said some Posch cars has the grills too but removed. So what i am doing is fine, it actually improve the flow. The sensor was reading in wrong angle...the car still goes good. no worries.

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I'd really take anything hiclone say with a LARGE grain of salt ;) If you believe half of what they say I suggest you also invest in a surbo and fuel polariser for your car.

Most vehicles that run a MAF use airflow straigteners of some sort. The Bosch MAF's used in the VAG vehicles have the straigtener built into the MAF housing.

Did you ask toyota exactly what fault codes were logged in your ECU?

Edited by rollamods
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yes, toyota, can not find any fault. but I know. The car is running 6.6.3 l/100km instead of 7. with hiclone added. its good. I am still saving up for the turbos. The hiclone was the old one from my integra,64cmID.

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so you had a check engine light on the dash and toyota found no fault? Sounds to me like they just cleared the code with the IT tool instead of looking up what it actually was.

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clearly jason i need to read the whole topic before i open my mouth. I only read the part about the light coming on and the 'ecu' reset getting rid of it. Didn't read that it came on again.

Toyota just cleared the code... Problem solved!

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clearly jason i need to read the whole topic before i open my mouth. I only read the part about the light coming on and the 'ecu' reset getting rid of it. Didn't read that it came on again.

Toyota just cleared the code... Problem solved!

no worries guys. The enine lights on again,,,,i know its due to my flow meter faulty reading at wrong angle. So this afternoon I will move the position of hiclone, this time I will place it before the flow meter, so the flow meter will"catch" some air for proper reading. I will up date this after 70kms of travelling. at this stage, placing hiclone after the flow meter DID not trick the flow meter, and engine light came up even earlier(35km). So I will try put it BEfore the flow meter.

By the way do you guys think 2003-6 model air intake is same as 2007 latest??

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clearly jason i need to read the whole topic before i open my mouth. I only read the part about the light coming on and the 'ecu' reset getting rid of it. Didn't read that it came on again.

Toyota just cleared the code... Problem solved!

no worries guys. The enine lights on again,,,,i know its due to my flow meter faulty reading at wrong angle. So this afternoon I will move the position of hiclone, this time I will place it before the flow meter, so the flow meter will"catch" some air for proper reading. I will up date this after 70kms of travelling. at this stage, placing hiclone after the flow meter DID not trick the flow meter, and engine light came up even earlier(35km). So I will try put it BEfore the flow meter.

By the way do you guys think 2003-6 model air intake is same as 2007 latest??

putting the POS hiclone before the MAF will cause more problems than good. You need to add a mesh or vanes that will direct flow straight through the MAF element

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clearly jason i need to read the whole topic before i open my mouth. I only read the part about the light coming on and the 'ecu' reset getting rid of it. Didn't read that it came on again.

Toyota just cleared the code... Problem solved!

no worries guys. The enine lights on again,,,,i know its due to my flow meter faulty reading at wrong angle. So this afternoon I will move the position of hiclone, this time I will place it before the flow meter, so the flow meter will"catch" some air for proper reading. I will up date this after 70kms of travelling. at this stage, placing hiclone after the flow meter DID not trick the flow meter, and engine light came up even earlier(35km). So I will try put it BEfore the flow meter.

By the way do you guys think 2003-6 model air intake is same as 2007 latest??

putting the POS hiclone before the MAF will cause more problems than good. You need to add a mesh or vanes that will direct flow straight through the MAF element

I tried yesterday, putting befroe af, the car wont start. So now i put where it was befre-after the Af,. Now I will custom made two plasstic plate to straighten the air flow. Edited by chopin
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