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Posted

i'm still thoroughly enjoying the power of my car... so after 1400kms, i still havent had a full tank of "normal" driving...

but in the days that i just drive to work and home in traffic, i've noticed the fuel consumption indicator showing roughly 11-11.6l/100km...

on average though, its sitting around 12.5-13l/100km...

i do have to say though....the trd is a REALLY thirsty car when you put your foot down... and yet really really fuel economical when you're just cruising around like a grandpa...

are the normal aurions like that as well?

  • 1 month later...
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Posted

Touring SE running in -- traveled 1,000 km - so far 10.5 l/100km City & 7.5 to 8.3 Highway (According to instrument panel display). This is with slight pulling to Left since brand new. If wheel alignment corrected and engine run in it should improve slightly.

Posted

Sh*t..Looks like Mine's the worse...

I use it to drive to city, and can hardly exceed 70KM/hr

After I filled the tank, the 1st 100m i drove shows 50L/100KM...And I was like WT*

Then it slowly gets to 10.5L/100Km..I was pretty happy...

But Now i got 16.7L/100KM..

=((((((

Posted

See attached picture for recent trip from bathurst to sydney return and trips from bathurst to oberon. Vortex 98 ($1.66 a litre).

post-8659-1212322712_thumb.jpg


Posted

Picked up Aurion Touring this weekend. May 08 production. 3km on ODO.

Drove home through highway and some hills. 22km on ODO.

Computer says 13.3L/100km.

Posted

Update.

Have been driving to work.

125km on ODO.

In the morning I got to chose between highway traffic jam, or resident streets with speed humps.

In the evening its a bit better, averaging 30km/h.

Trip computer figure raised from 13.5L to 15L.

I could take a big detour and get better fuel economy (per km) but cruising is not good for running-in period right?

Posted
Update.

Have been driving to work.

125km on ODO.

In the morning I got to chose between highway traffic jam, or resident streets with speed humps.

In the evening its a bit better, averaging 30km/h.

Trip computer figure raised from 13.5L to 15L.

I could take a big detour and get better fuel economy (per km) but cruising is not good for running-in period right?

You are getting quite similar fuel consumption to what we originally got when I started this thread. From your description, your typical drive to work is similar to what our car is going through.

Would be interesting when you fill up to confirm that the trip computer is giving accurate results. Our ATX has no trip computer so always done manually. Still averaging about 14-14.5 for peak hour suburban commute now with 9500km on the clock.

Posted

Yeah I am going to have to do that (manual calculation) to confirm.

Smooth ride home tonight. Averaging 32km/h (according to my handheld GPS).

Got home in 20mins. (usually 35+)

Trip computer figure dropped to 13.8L/100km.

Anyway this is still my first tank.

Posted
Yeah I am going to have to do that (manual calculation) to confirm.

Smooth ride home tonight. Averaging 32km/h (according to my handheld GPS).

Got home in 20mins. (usually 35+)

Trip computer figure dropped to 13.8L/100km.

Anyway this is still my first tank.

Yeah, you really have to do the manual calculations if you want to get an accurate figure. For me, I found my actual value turned out to be better than the in-dash approximation. When it's time to fill up, I always seem to always have a figure of 11.2l-11.7l/100km displaying on the dash. When I manually calculated it however (using an average of about 4000km) I had a fuel consumption figure of 10.4l/100km. Guess my Aurion was more fuel efficient than I thought.

I just use the in-dash gauge to give me an idea of my driving style. I'm naturally lead footed and when I get a high figure on the dash, I usually then realise that I should back off a bit (mainly because fuel is like liquid gold these days). Even still, for the way I drive, I am quite satisfied with the 10.4l figure that I am getting.

I'm approaching the 5000km mark with my car (distance that I have driven with it, and for which I have fuel receipts for), so I'll soon calculate my average fuel consumption with a 5000km average, once my tank is empty. I'm sure that won't be far off with the National Meet this weekend :yahoo:

Posted

Agree with DKJOR, do a manual calculation,

Also from what I was informed that the calculations are based on petrol fill height of the tank (im not sure if its a buoyancy meter tho?), which is silly because the fuel tanks is not a perfect cube so at the highest point and and lower points the fuel will decrease quicker than the mid ranges, so the trip computer thinks your driving it hard and will push the averages up when your fuel tank is low end.

Posted

What ive observed with my Presara so far is as follows:)..If i fill the tank up and do short drives / start n stops the fuel average is :angry: anywhere up to 14.5 or so ltrs per the hundred..

Other weekend i filled up and drove straight down to Brisvages and got down to 7.3 ltrs/100..

On the drive back it mostly sat on 7.7 to 7.8 /100 fpr highway driving i thought that was prety good but around town depending on your stop starts!!??..

personlly i dont think that premium to unleaded makes all that much difference worth worrying about..

Cheers

Posted

I have 300km on ODO now.

Recent trips had average speed above 30km/h.

Computer figure now says 11.8L.

I'll probably start doing manual calculation next time I refill.

Posted
To reset the ECU just disconnect the battry for 20 mins..

Isn't the ECU just a computer ?

I would've thought turning off the ignition would reset it every time.

I would think the battery would go flat sooner or later if the ECU was constantly on.

Posted
To reset the ECU just disconnect the battry for 20 mins..

Isn't the ECU just a computer ?

I would've thought turning off the ignition would reset it every time.

I would think the battery would go flat sooner or later if the ECU was constantly on.

Part of the ECU stores data that requires power to keep its memory. Yes, whenever it is connected to a power source it will always be drawing power, even if the car is physically off. The power draw however is rather small and considering the size of a car battery, it would barely be noticed. By the time that it would draw a significant amount of power to lower the charge in the battery so you couldn't start your car, the battery would probably be dead from its own "decay".

The reason why you need to disconnect the battery for around 20 minutes to clear the ECU is to discharge the capacitor inside the ECU that holds a small amount of charge so that it can hold its memory when the power is disconnected. The capacitor is only sized to hold around that charge because there would probably be no reason to use a larger one.

Posted

will this "smart start/entry" bull**** that the trd and i think the presara also has it be affected by disconnecting the battery?

i dont want to be come stranded and have to tow the car to toyota to get the keys reprogrammed...

Posted
will this "smart start/entry" bull**** that the trd and i think the presara also has it be affected by disconnecting the battery?

i dont want to be come stranded and have to tow the car to toyota to get the keys reprogrammed...

ZR6 has this too you TRD snob :P

you would hope it wouldn't lose it. That's the sort of thing that happens on the subies with the brant keypads - which i always giggled at.

Posted
will this "smart start/entry" bull**** that the trd and i think the presara also has it be affected by disconnecting the battery?

i dont want to be come stranded and have to tow the car to toyota to get the keys reprogrammed...

You would think that the data for that would be located on a non-volatile memory (doesn't require power) source since it is data that isn't always overwritten. Only data that has to get overwritten many times is usually put on memory that is volatile. It is just my assumption though. I wouldn't go disconnecting the battery just to test it.

On a side note, I may not have the smart entry, but I still have the keys with the transponder chip. You would think the keys and remote would be the same basic idea as the smart entry when it comes to the immobiliser. When I was working on my car when I got it, I had the battery disconnected for a whole week and it didn't affect my keys or remote.

Posted
ZR6 has this too you TRD snob :P

you would hope it wouldn't lose it. That's the sort of thing that happens on the subies with the brant keypads - which i always giggled at.

hahaha, sorry!!! i dont know all the features of the different models!! my bad!!

well, this is what triggered the question for me... cause i know that when i had my wrx, a lot of the wrx owners had this problem with their brant system (thank fuq mine didnt have it when i bought it!!)

You would think that the data for that would be located on a non-volatile memory (doesn't require power) source since it is data that isn't always overwritten. Only data that has to get overwritten many times is usually put on memory that is volatile. It is just my assumption though. I wouldn't go disconnecting the battery just to test it.

On a side note, I may not have the smart entry, but I still have the keys with the transponder chip. You would think the keys and remote would be the same basic idea as the smart entry when it comes to the immobiliser. When I was working on my car when I got it, I had the battery disconnected for a whole week and it didn't affect my keys or remote.

well, thats what i was thinking, but i wasnt sure... i just didnt want to risk it...

i wanted to remove my battery to get to my intake system, but didnt want to risk getting stranded... lol

Posted (edited)

My first manual calculation.

ODO1 = 363km

ODO2 = 650km

Fill = 40.2L

Economy = 14.0L/100km

Average speed = 25km/h+

Still early days of course.

EDIT: Trip computer reported ~13.5L/100km.

Edited by tekkyy
Posted

11.3L/100km/h in First Week

Not bad considering havent exactly been trying to get good economy :spiteful:

Posted

i do about 60%-40% highway to town driving, i tried nana-ing the car big time for the last 3 fills and I can't get any better than 10l/100km.

Posted

Actually I drove smoothly/nana-ing. Its not difficult to do on the Aurion.

Doing the same thing in our older family car then people would overtake us or tailgate us.

Looking forward to next week's manual calculation.

Posted

I am getting 9.5 to high 10's for general commuting. Have had as low as 8.0, but averaged 8.5 for an interstate trip last month.

On the recent National Meet cruise I had from 9.6 to 11.7.

My Aurion has just under 10,000kms on it.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

My 2nd manual calculation.

This time over a fortnight. Still haven't cracked 1000km yet.

ODO1 = 650km

ODO2 = 977km

Fill = 45.9L

Economy = 14.0L/100km

The unoptimal driving conditions hasn't changed. Petrol is still unleaded from Woolsworths Caltex.

Computer reported 13.4L/100km.

Edited by tekkyy

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