FASTER THAN R50 V10 TWIN TURBO VW TOE RAG! (AWD KX-S Kluger) 7.10 seconds 0-100kph (+ FJ Cruiser) 6.84 seconds 0-100kph V6=Don Mega!!!!

[Taka]

You are officially nuts if you corner balance your Kluger.

[RICE RACING]

Here are all the graphs, math channel one is a snap shot of the awkw reading at that listed point, 60ft is marked in metric as is average velocity over last 66ft in metric so you can compare it to a backwards ***** hole reading like a drag track ;)

Fist set of tests 0-100km/h

Second set (was slower for some reason (can see power loss) FIRST test I forgot to turn the traction and stability control off and has slower first 60ft

Next is quarter mile test (again this is the one where the slower 0-100 happened, you can see the lower time and terminal speed and also measured power)

Final is the last test repeated on same place as first 0-100's........ this time the power is much higher and time and power are back to normal high's (forgot to turn on data logger on first attempt! (it did 7.26 seconds 0-100!... you will just have to believe me lol. It was that good I decided to do a lap and have another go but this time over full 1/4 mile!) 146.80kph is what you would get over last 66ft on drag strip!!! (average on right hand side) the time slip would be much faster on drag track if you exploited the 1 foot roll out (bank on 3/10th's of a second reduction on average).

[holmesie]

amazing gadgetry and info there RR... it's taking me a while to get my head around it all (it's been a long weekend already!)

[PC XT]

Go for flat 6 sec then we can put it against a stock XT

Still low 7sec passes are great for such a big vessel....I thought my PC Delta Dash was amazing...IT IS I HAVENT SEEN IT REPLICATED LIKE MINE ANYWHERE ELSE...

Funny Holmesie was the first to comment on my Gadgetry in another forum over 3 years ago

RR Your gadgets are Amazing....V-Box and Scales etc Very Nice

[holmesie]

Funny Holmesie was the first to comment on my Gadgetry in another forum over 3 years ago

and it's taken me 3 years to catch up to where you were then!! The carPC is going in any day now mate B)

[PC XT]

Funny Holmesie was the first to comment on my Gadgetry in another forum over 3 years ago

and it's taken me 3 years to catch up to where you were then!! The carPC is going in any day now mate B)

Good work keep me posted keen to see a good result with the chosen PC :D

[RICE RACING]

Could not help myself, did another run this morning before I had to tune a Mazda for a bloke and the Don Mega Kluger back up the fastest time of yesterday with 7.26 seconds 0-100km/h and 15.49 seconds 1/4 mile time.

Will put up graphs later. of interest is the basic exact repeat of the day previous only diff was marginally less power in 3rd gear (~7awkw in places) which accounted for the 0.05 increase in time and 1.5km/h less top speed. Exact same location to the millimeter :)

p.s. the Mazda I tuned today had 189rwkw ! so the Kluger is a pretty powerful thing :D (Kluger today in 2nd was 170awkw and around 165awkw in 3rd gear)

[RICE RACING]

Here is another run from today (7.26 seconds *0-100* and 15.49 seconds *quarter mile*), You can see the relationship between power and performance, and see how 3rd gear on today's test was slightly less in grunt and resulting effect on time ;) *average power listed between test lines in report* (tested on exact same piece of road within 1m)

[jat]

Gday. I also have a KX-S. Just finished my first tank of fuel, about 490km of suburb driving. Ave 13.0/100km.

Really wrapped about the car, but am hoping efficiency improves a little. Haven't been on open roads as yet.

I'm interested in your 'run in' proceedure.

Do you think you could document it in point form on this thread. I think many 'less informed' would find it useful.

Thanks in advance.

Here goes *keep in mind this are just my ideas I apply to all engines from my racing rotaries to my little 3.5cc Nitro Methanol RC buggy* (I build my own engines and pull apart many so its the basis of my ideas behind run in)

Do not apply any great load on your engine until properly warmed up (even after run in) *temp needle has stabilized mid way*

* My KX-s had 11km on it when I picked it up.

1. First step (sub 3000rpm)

No speed higher than 80kph for first 200km

- very light throttle application (1/4 and avoid any big hills and if approaching any use minimal power)

- vary speed if possible but not crucial at this stage

2. Part 2 (sub 3000rpm)

- 200km with speed increased to 90kph

- 1/4 to 1/3rd throttle but again taking off like the proverbial grand mother is the go still here

3. part 3 (up to 3500rpm)

- 200km with maximum speed lifted to 100kph

- same 1/4 to 1/3 throttle, still not using any great amount of available power to accelerate vehicle, as a guide you should be getting 10lt per 100km region in non city (excessive stop start) driving to give you an idea of how gentle I do this phase

(by this time your @ 600mk covered *if it applies to your car*) and now you can start to find a nice area and manually control the gearbox to allow the revs to be held before its allowed to shift into next gear

4. part 4 (4000rpm)

- 200km maximum speed to 110kph

1/2 to 3/4 and NOT FROM STAND STILL YET but from 40 to 60 kph I hold the gears working them from 2nd to 4th and shifting at 3500 to 4000rpm as your accelerating, either up to speed or up a hill, hills are great as they will impart good load on the engine and facilitate correct level of sustained load on the engine to seat critical elements like piston rings, bearings, etc, combined with the higher revs will do a good job of this.

5. last stages (4500 rpm)

- 200km same max speed 110kph

3/4 throttle majority when accelerating (still not from a dead stop but as explained above) but using up to 4500rpm again only possible by manually flicking lever, on hills or inclines I use these as an opportunity to hold the load for longer, like accelerating in 3rd gear from about 60km to 105kph or so at 3/4 throttle etc then changing to top and finding next bit of suitable road to repeat this. In my last picture of the 83km trip I did this acceleration procedure about a dozen times? or probably more.

To know you have done a good of fair job your exhaust system should be blue/ brown in color from the end of the catalytic converter to the start of the big muffler opposite the petrol tank. This basically means you have made enough heat and worked your engine to an acceptable level to allow a proper break in.

**me personally I change my own oil and only use Mobil 1 5w-50 grade, after 1000km running on factory oil (semi synthetic) I will dump it and the oil filter as its done its job, the Mobil or similar quality has far great level of protection from my experience and after break in I am focused on reducing as much wear as possible not promoting it, I use 50 weight on the high temp end as it is a thicker viscosity when warm and it provides far lower wear and far great protection of the engine in hard conditions for a documented reduction is metal inclusions in oil analysis between services (engine not getting eaten up! to save .1lt per 100km!) 30 weight hot oils like factory prescribe are too thin and while giving marginally better fuel consumption they come at a cost, greater engine wear and tear. I will post up my economy figures on Mobil 1 5w-50 for anyone concerned on interested on its effect of the factory filled oil, I doubt there will be any difference here.**

After you have reached 1000km and progressive step up of load and revs the engine should be happy enough to accept some full throttle applications, again I would limit the use of this from a dead stand still as your still breaking it other parts of the car like the gearbox, differentials all joints and bearings. I think if you employ this or another break in procedure you will have a better overall car that should return great economy and power, but also other drive line parts will be long lasting.

The idea behind it all is no matter how good parts are machined/manufactured (I am a mechanical engineer and also a machinist by trade) there will always be a basic mismatch of elements be it a simple ball bearing running in a race or a something more complex like a piston ring in a bore, there are literally thousands of such interfaces in your car and all of these need to be given time to "find their own place" as a mating part to another.

Basic stuff like the rear diff on my 16km drive at 80kph back home from my local dealer was running quite warm for such a short journey (this is due to stuff like seals and gears generating excess heat from rubbing various high spots etc and thus developing heat) these things settle down allot over time but if you give excess load to these items before they have a chance to settle it then they wear funny as a result. I dont want to worry anyone who has not had the opportunity to do this in such an anal way as id do all of my mechanical items but its just a thing if you have the opportunity to do then it can be shown to provide positive effects in terms of longevity, efficiency, and basic power output as well.

For those who have taken time to read this and think oh I missed out on doing that or cant do it due to various practical restrictions please don't feel bad, i have had many company cars that I TOTALLY RAPED from brand new (full load full revs from dealership door!) and they all survived a total flogging (some I owned to 220,000km's)... economy I never really monitored though nor was concerned about long term quality of car but I'd say its probably all marginal at end of the day, however there is benefits to be had if you can do so. Good luck and enjoy your Klugers :D I'll post up some more stuff as I get along with mine .... IF I can stop driving it and staring at it when parked haha

hi,

I just bougwithh kxr fwd done only 500km milage coming up 15.9l/100km using coles premium petrol.I drive very softly.I am worried is there some thing wrong.

Please advice.

Regards,

Jat

[PaulG]

after i change the oil and add a K&N filter i hope to be able to do this with my klugger:

Kittle Toyota buggy

[nealo]

Long term fuel consumption ;)

While not as good as Rice Racing's consumption, this is my consumption over the last 5400klms consisting of over 90% Sydney driving. Running kids to school, peak hour work trips etc. I am more than pleased and it's about the same as what I get from my Accord Euro!

[Kesawi]

While not as good as Rice Racing's consumption, this is my consumption over the last 5400klms consisting of over 90% Sydney driving. Running kids to school, peak hour work trips etc. I am more than pleased and it's about the same as what I get from my Accord Euro!

Over the past 4 weeks I haven't been working and have just been doing school runs, and short 2-5km trips. Fuel consumption is up around 16-17L/100km.

[RICE RACING]

Well car is just going great :D I really should drive it more.

Did not think I would still like it a year on, but its really the perfect combination of performance, efficiency, and very versatile vehicle.

[Freddie Kluger]

hey RR

thats quite an achievement

you have extracted some much by doing so little as far as $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ go

if you had the oppurtunity and the $$$$$$$$$$$ what would / could you do to the Kluger to give it even more grunt ( lets chuck the fuel economy out the door for a while too)

and what would you expect to achive

thanks in advance !!

[RICE RACING]

I would love to test a Kluger that had a full exhaust system fitted and and maybe a reprogrammed ECU, The problem with the Kluger in stock form is the Air fuel ratio varies at random some times and as I have shown the ECU can and does pull power out of the engine when it decides to do so (has a big impact on tested performance) also it changes gear too early.

It is a real great car as it is (nice and quiet) it would be a real shame to make it loud and only have a marginal increases in power and speed. Naturally aspirated engines are like that sadly there are big negatives (noise) that go along with increased performance gains.

Personally if I wanted more power and low down power, I would turbocharge my Kluger, keep it nice and quite and have about double the low down power it has now.... that would be an excellent combination for performance, though it would punish the excellent fuel economy :)

In Summary

#1 Reprogrammed ECU (Engine tuning & also to control when gearbox changes, a couple of hundred more rpm would make it faster as it makes peak power where it changes gear)

#2 Exhaust (but it would need to be very high quality one that did not increase noise to much)

Ultimate

#1,2,3,4...... Turbocharge it :)

[ajrobb]

Hey Rice, is it actually possible to re-program or flash the ecu at all similar to the Ford Flash tuners?

[RICE RACING]

Hey Rice, is it actually possible to re-program or flash the ecu at all similar to the Ford Flash tuners?

I do not know in this specific case, I tune 100's of rotaries in my time and while there are gains to be had its probably more true than not the reason why the injection/ign map is set is for reliable operation. The stock ECU is very smart, adjusts to different fuel types and alters the power (ign timing to match) probably tweaks the fuel too, but the times I have check it the fuel curve seems the same regardless of octane, though it does vary with what gear you are in.

Moral is someone needs to do 100+ Klugers and have a bank of reliable running cars (for hundreds of thousands of kilometers) before I myself would let mine be retuned or chipped etc < you need to verify long term effects.

Chasing a fwhp or dyno glory has its short comings, not sure I would bother with my daily driver :) I am happy with the speed and all round package of my car out on the highway not much can match it :D

:o

[dazbeer]

Hey Rice, is it actually possible to re-program or flash the ecu at all similar to the Ford Flash tuners?

I do not know in this specific case, I tune 100's of rotaries in my time and while there are gains to be had its probably more true than not the reason why the injection/ign map is set is for reliable operation. The stock ECU is very smart, adjusts to different fuel types and alters the power (ign timing to match) probably tweaks the fuel too, but the times I have check it the fuel curve seems the same regardless of octane, though it does vary with what gear you are in.

Moral is someone needs to do 100+ Klugers and have a bank of reliable running cars (for hundreds of thousands of kilometers) before I myself would let mine be retuned or chipped etc < you need to verify long term effects.

Chasing a fwhp or dyno glory has its short comings, not sure I would bother with my daily driver :) I am happy with the speed and all round package of my car out on the highway not much can match it :D

:o

Has anyone considered fitting the supercharger from the TRD Aurion to the engine - if so what probs would this cause

[RICE RACING]

Hey Rice, is it actually possible to re-program or flash the ecu at all similar to the Ford Flash tuners?

I do not know in this specific case, I tune 100's of rotaries in my time and while there are gains to be had its probably more true than not the reason why the injection/ign map is set is for reliable operation. The stock ECU is very smart, adjusts to different fuel types and alters the power (ign timing to match) probably tweaks the fuel too, but the times I have check it the fuel curve seems the same regardless of octane, though it does vary with what gear you are in.

Moral is someone needs to do 100+ Klugers and have a bank of reliable running cars (for hundreds of thousands of kilometers) before I myself would let mine be retuned or chipped etc < you need to verify long term effects.

Chasing a fwhp or dyno glory has its short comings, not sure I would bother with my daily driver :) I am happy with the speed and all round package of my car out on the highway not much can match it :D

:o

Has anyone considered fitting the supercharger from the TRD Aurion to the engine - if so what probs would this cause

A lot of detonation at a guess :D

Engine compression ratio has been optimized to run N/A and not forced induction, so on knock limited fuel (remember the N/A stock Kluger donk varies in power a fair bit depending on what fuel octane you use) then you can expect vastly greater fuel consumption (<as this will be needed to cool the engine). Then the timing will need to be retarded greatly and this will reduce the thermal efficiency and use even more fuel again.

Take off the power you need to drive the supercharger and you will have a poor engine set up.

To do it properly the compression ratio would need to be reduced and the most efficient form of pressurizing the engine is with a Turbo Charger and not a belt driven super charger which sucks power from the output shaft of the motor.

Supercharging really is a backwards step in terms of power and efficiency. Nice for Drag racing on methanol though, makes awesome explosions and metal fragments showering into the sky with a matching ball of flame :D

[RICE RACING]

Well I am up to 22100km on the Kluger and she is running sweet, due for its 3rd service.

Have been driving her to and from town with odd highway trip thrown in and its averaged 9.8lt for the last 3480km. Overall I'd say its a win and happy to report it does not use any oil between changes either so I got a good one from the factory lucky dip :D of engines ;)

[Kesawi]

Well I am up to 22100km on the Kluger and she is running sweet, due for its 3rd service.

Have been driving her to and from town with odd highway trip thrown in and its averaged 9.8lt for the last 3480km. Overall I'd say its a win and happy to report it does not use any oil between changes either so I got a good one from the factory lucky dip :D of engines ;)

I'd say you got a great one from the lucky dip :)

Notice mine's been feeling a little sluggish and using more fuel since the last service when I changed to Mobil 1 Super Syn 0W-40. I woulsn't think the oil would be the reason for the change.

[RICE RACING]

Well I am up to 22100km on the Kluger and she is running sweet, due for its 3rd service.

Have been driving her to and from town with odd highway trip thrown in and its averaged 9.8lt for the last 3480km. Overall I'd say its a win and happy to report it does not use any oil between changes either so I got a good one from the factory lucky dip :D of engines ;)

I'd say you got a great one from the lucky dip :)

Notice mine's been feeling a little sluggish and using more fuel since the last service when I changed to Mobil 1 Super Syn 0W-40. I woulsn't think the oil would be the reason for the change.

Yeah? I don't know. In my own case coming up for service I was going to switch to a cheaper oil but I think I will stick with the same its had from the 1000km mark being Mobil 1 0w-30 *the ultra expensive stuff*. I would not think engine oil would make such a big difference but hey all I need to do is re read this thread where I listed it all day by day and when I changed the oil the car measured a big difference in performance

I seem to think another member posted how he noticed a difference (noticeable less power and worse economy) when he changed from the ultra expensive Mobil 1 to a lesser specification but I could be dreaming?

[Kesawi]

Yeah? I don't know. In my own case coming up for service I was going to switch to a cheaper oil but I think I will stick with the same its had from the 1000km mark being Mobil 1 0w-30 *the ultra expensive stuff*. I would not think engine oil would make such a big difference but hey all I need to do is re read this thread where I listed it all day by day and when I changed the oil the car measured a big difference in performance

I seem to think another member posted how he noticed a difference (noticeable less power and worse economy) when he changed from the ultra expensive Mobil 1 to a lesser specification but I could be dreaming?

What gets me is that I went from the standard Toyota oil to the ultra expensive $90/6L Mobil 1 oil, which should have imporoved power and economy rather than made it worse.

[udor]

Well I am up to 22100km on the Kluger and she is running sweet, due for its 3rd service.

Have been driving her to and from town with odd highway trip thrown in and its averaged 9.8lt for the last 3480km. Overall I'd say its a win and happy to report it does not use any oil between changes either so I got a good one from the factory lucky dip :D of engines ;)

I'd say you got a great one from the lucky dip :)

Notice mine's been feeling a little sluggish and using more fuel since the last service when I changed to Mobil 1 Super Syn 0W-40. I woulsn't think the oil would be the reason for the change.

Yeah? I don't know. In my own case coming up for service I was going to switch to a cheaper oil but I think I will stick with the same its had from the 1000km mark being Mobil 1 0w-30 *the ultra expensive stuff*. I would not think engine oil would make such a big difference but hey all I need to do is re read this thread where I listed it all day by day and when I changed the oil the car measured a big difference in performance

I seem to think another member posted how he noticed a difference (noticeable less power and worse economy) when he changed from the ultra expensive Mobil 1 to a lesser specification but I could be dreaming?

Hey Rice,

Is it better to do your break in procedure quickly? For example, 500km per day and finish it on the second day. Or is it better to let the engine go down to room temp after each 200km milestone? Thanks.

[RICE RACING]

Well I am up to 22100km on the Kluger and she is running sweet, due for its 3rd service.

Have been driving her to and from town with odd highway trip thrown in and its averaged 9.8lt for the last 3480km. Overall I'd say its a win and happy to report it does not use any oil between changes either so I got a good one from the factory lucky dip :D of engines ;)

I'd say you got a great one from the lucky dip :)

Notice mine's been feeling a little sluggish and using more fuel since the last service when I changed to Mobil 1 Super Syn 0W-40. I woulsn't think the oil would be the reason for the change.

Yeah? I don't know. In my own case coming up for service I was going to switch to a cheaper oil but I think I will stick with the same its had from the 1000km mark being Mobil 1 0w-30 *the ultra expensive stuff*. I would not think engine oil would make such a big difference but hey all I need to do is re read this thread where I listed it all day by day and when I changed the oil the car measured a big difference in performance

I seem to think another member posted how he noticed a difference (noticeable less power and worse economy) when he changed from the ultra expensive Mobil 1 to a lesser specification but I could be dreaming?

Hey Rice,

Is it better to do your break in procedure quickly? For example, 500km per day and finish it on the second day. Or is it better to let the engine go down to room temp after each 200km milestone? Thanks.

Engines break is better when they are heat cycled, so do each stage from cold to hot, the more times you do this or spread it over more days/trips then the greater the amount of break in that will happen.

From memory I did mine over a few weeks.

As a side note I broke in one engine for my RX7 Mazda and hardly drove it ! (only did 200km) but I used around 150lt of fuel doing continual cold to hot operating temperature cycles (running engine for 20 minutes at a time), anyway I had to pull this engine apart only a few weeks ago to measure the wear of some parts and the main bearings and other sealing elements all broke in very well on this "cold to hot" heat cycle method (as used in model RC engines).

So from that above example the more you can space it out the better, though not practical for most people.