Air intake mods

[yoz-r6]

VAROOOOMMMMM!!!!! sounds great! thanks fpr your help on where to find this beast Darryl!

[-DAvo]

VAROOOOMMMMM!!!!! sounds great! thanks fpr your help on where to find this beast Darryl!

looks great mate!

are you in perth? did you fit it yourself or get a shop to fit it for you?

cheers

[yoz-r6]

VAROOOOMMMMM!!!!! sounds great! thanks fpr your help on where to find this beast Darryl!

looks great mate!

are you in perth? did you fit it yourself or get a shop to fit it for you?

cheers

yeh mate, i'm down south of perth, kwinana way, you need help fitting yours? i did fit it myself, mine took about 2 hours, during the worst storm WA had ever had! haha! but i was following instructions step-by-step, comes with pretty clear instructions, but now i know what i'm doing, it'll prolly only take an hour?

[czaja74]

My should arrive next week.Hope it will get here before Easter.

[SCOOTA44]

Finally finished the custom CAI ,the only thing Im not sure of is the correct dimensions of the pod filter, I currently have a standard pod from 'SUPERCHEAP" but looking at the pod that comes with the K & N, it looks bigger than the one I have, dont want to choke it. the last 3 tanks of fuel the average has been mid to low 10's on 91 ulp. pics and video to come during the week.

[DJKOR]

Oh man.... this is starting to get concerning. Here I am reading through things like this which means that it's probably not going to be long before some money is spent. After having the K&N SRI on my Sportivo, I really wonder what surprise the TRD would have when it is let to roar through the intake.

I did say this a year and a half ago though, so I better keep my word:

Even if it didn't do anything for the performance, if I had the TRD I would pay to have my intake changed just to get more 'whirr' out of the s/c.

[Tofuboi]

Oh man.... this is starting to get concerning. Here I am reading through things like this which means that it's probably not going to be long before some money is spent. After having the K&N SRI on my Sportivo, I really wonder what surprise the TRD would have when it is let to roar through the intake.

I did say this a year and a half ago though, so I better keep my word:

Even if it didn't do anything for the performance, if I had the TRD I would pay to have my intake changed just to get more 'whirr' out of the s/c.

And now it's the waiting game. :)

[SCOOTA44]

At last the finished CAI.

[SCOOTA44]

just a quick video of sound http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQC50lWEV-o this was done in sequential mode, more fun that way. any comments welcome.

[SCOOTA44]

I wanted a neater look to my CAI. It now goes down under the battery through the void left after taking out the bottom resonator and the pod sitting inside the left guard, not banging against the foglight like it was.

[SCOOTA44]

Built my CAI with 64mm (3inch) sections of intercooler pipe (cant get the chrome coated plastic ones down here any more) And have a standard "supercheap" pod, just wondering if these pods are big enough or would it be better to find a bigger one? Not much to choose from down here.

[Myxalplyx]

**Deleted**

Edited May 18, 2010 by Myxalplyx

[Alonso]

hey every1

just to confirm, after i have installed my k&n cai i've noticed serious drop in hp in the low rpm range and also when i reach around 4000rpm it sounds like air is escaping for like a fraction of a second... i've checked all my clamps, even tightened them so much i broke one :S i'm quite concerned bout this so would be nice if some1 could give me some pointers/help, etc.

ie. This is the first time i've mechanically done something to my car and it seems my pre thoughts of $#@!ing it up is indeed becoming reality. :(

thanks in advance

[SCOOTA44]

hey every1

just to confirm, after i have installed my k&n cai i've noticed serious drop in hp in the low rpm range and also when i reach around 4000rpm it sounds like air is escaping for like a fraction of a second... i've checked all my clamps, even tightened them so much i broke one :S i'm quite concerned bout this so would be nice if some1 could give me some pointers/help, etc.

ie. This is the first time i've mechanically done something to my car and it seems my pre thoughts of $#@!ing it up is indeed becoming reality. :(

thanks in advance

give the ECU time to adjust to the new setup, different airflow rates and length of intake the ECU needs to reset parameters which can take time, after a couple hundred Ks see if any difference in performance.

[Myxalplyx]

hey every1

just to confirm, after i have installed my k&n cai i've noticed serious drop in hp in the low rpm range and also when i reach around 4000rpm it sounds like air is escaping for like a fraction of a second... i've checked all my clamps, even tightened them so much i broke one :S i'm quite concerned bout this so would be nice if some1 could give me some pointers/help, etc.

ie. This is the first time i've mechanically done something to my car and it seems my pre thoughts of $#@!ing it up is indeed becoming reality. :(

thanks in advance

I noticed this same thing when my car had the short ram setup. ECU learning or not, it felt like it lose some low end torque. You can regain this lowend torque and response by attaching piping to the short ram, converting it to a cold-air setup like the previous poster did. When I did this, I noticed my low end torque came back and throttle response was much better. Seemed like there was more of a delay with power when flooring it, with the short ram.

[fuel miser]

I wanted a neater look to my CAI. It now goes down under the battery through the void left after taking out the bottom resonator and the pod sitting inside the left guard, not banging against the foglight like it was.

Lots of nice and shinny pipe there, I just have one question.

Is the pipe insulated? If not the heat in the engine bay will be absorbed into the pipe and heat the air.

Here's a challenge for those keen enough.

Make an insulated waterproof container that you will run your fuel line through using ice to cool it.

How do you make it? Simple.

Get a piece of 100mm pvc pipe roughly 30cm in length and one cap to glue on the bottom and a screw on cap for the top. Assemble this, you can get some clamps to mount his from the same place you buy the already mentioned items or make some.

Get about 1 mtr of cooper line same size as your current fuel line.

Drill 2 holes about 25mm apart just below the top removable cap for the inlet and outlet of the copper pipe.

Now the tricky bit.

Wind the cooper pipe around something that is the approximate size of the internal diameter of the 100mm pvc pipe. When done bend one end up so the two end finish at one end and can be bent again to pass through the two holes at the top of the pvc pipe.

A simple drain can be added to the bottom of the pvc pipe to release the water (melted ice when required). Insulate the 100mm pvc pipe, mount it, run your line from the fuel tank to the pvc pipe and connect to one cooper pipe, run another piece of fuel line from the the other cooper pipe and connect into original fuel line connection. Insulate these.

Start the car, fuel will have to fill the new pipe work and when running correctly turn it off. Fill the pvc pipe will ice and close it. Start the car and go for a drive.

The colder fuel and a insulated working CAI will have a dramatic effect. It will be like you are running the car on a cold winters morning regardless of the outside air temp.

Obviously the ice has a limited life (but like a glass of ice water it will still be cool after the ice has melted) but if you want you could use dry ice and if insulated properly it would last significantly longer.

How do I know this works, trust me old guys know some tricks and also by doing this on several cars I have previously owned.

Anyone feel challenged?

[Steven]

I wanted a neater look to my CAI. It now goes down under the battery through the void left after taking out the bottom resonator and the pod sitting inside the left guard, not banging against the foglight like it was.

Lots of nice and shinny pipe there, I just have one question.

Is the pipe insulated? If not the heat in the engine bay will be absorbed into the pipe and heat the air.

Here's a challenge for those keen enough.

Make an insulated waterproof container that you will run your fuel line through using ice to cool it.

How do you make it? Simple.

Get a piece of 100mm pvc pipe roughly 30cm in length and one cap to glue on the bottom and a screw on cap for the top. Assemble this, you can get some clamps to mount his from the same place you buy the already mentioned items or make some.

Get about 1 mtr of cooper line same size as your current fuel line.

Drill 2 holes about 25mm apart just below the top removable cap for the inlet and outlet of the copper pipe.

Now the tricky bit.

Wind the cooper pipe around something that is the approximate size of the internal diameter of the 100mm pvc pipe. When done bend one end up so the two end finish at one end and can be bent again to pass through the two holes at the top of the pvc pipe.

A simple drain can be added to the bottom of the pvc pipe to release the water (melted ice when required). Insulate the 100mm pvc pipe, mount it, run your line from the fuel tank to the pvc pipe and connect to one cooper pipe, run another piece of fuel line from the the other cooper pipe and connect into original fuel line connection. Insulate these.

Start the car, fuel will have to fill the new pipe work and when running correctly turn it off. Fill the pvc pipe will ice and close it. Start the car and go for a drive.

The colder fuel and a insulated working CAI will have a dramatic effect. It will be like you are running the car on a cold winters morning regardless of the outside air temp.

Obviously the ice has a limited life (but like a glass of ice water it will still be cool after the ice has melted) but if you want you could use dry ice and if insulated properly it would last significantly longer.

How do I know this works, trust me old guys know some tricks and also by doing this on several cars I have previously owned.

Anyone feel challenged?

Whilst your idea has merit in a technical aspect, I would honestly prefer you didn't give people ideas that involve modifying their fuel lines. Your average "I can do that" modder on here tends to not have great results first times round but at least the negative results aren't potentially life threatening.

Even I'll have to admit your idea has got me thinking, but I'll make this recommendation to anyone reading this - Don't mess with your fuel system unless you really know what you're doing. Experimenting without concrete knowledge and practical experience will very likely result in fire related consequences.

[fuel miser]

As an open forum any information given freely by anyone is for the each individual reading the forum to assess whether it is something they should contemplate before undertaking it.

I fail so see the difference in modifying suspension components, roll/sway bars, increasing the size of rims and tires, air intakes, modifying exhausts, headlights, etc or the information I posted.

To be honest these are all mods that would not be approved by the manufacturer, insurer, motor registry, etc and being found with some may even land you in some very difficult situations should things go wrong.

If there is an issue with someone who doesn't have the skills to complete the intended mod then the individual should have the common sense not to start it.

This is Australia not China we don't restrict information from the general public.

Maybe I should have given the original reply a rating similar to a movie (A) Adult content, (T) Technical information which may not be suitable for the challenged out there, (S3) Skill level advanced, etc.

[Steven]

As an open forum any information given freely by anyone is for the each individual reading the forum to assess whether it is something they should contemplate before undertaking it.

I fail so see the difference in modifying suspension components, roll/sway bars, increasing the size of rims and tires, air intakes, modifying exhausts, headlights, etc or the information I posted.

To be honest these are all mods that would not be approved by the manufacturer, insurer, motor registry, etc and being found with some may even land you in some very difficult situations should things go wrong.

If there is an issue with someone who doesn't have the skills to complete the intended mod then the individual should have the common sense not to start it.

This is Australia not China we don't restrict information from the general public.

Maybe I should have given the original reply a rating similar to a movie (A) Adult content, (T) Technical information which may not be suitable for the challenged out there, (S3) Skill level advanced, etc.

Let me clarify,

you've taken my post far beyond what I've actually said, which is that I would prefer you don't challenge people to do such a risky mod, and advising people of the risks involved if they did consider doing such a mod. To stop this from getting like boost, I won't reply any further.

[Myxalplyx]

Lots of nice and shinny pipe there, I just have one question.

Is the pipe insulated? If not the heat in the engine bay will be absorbed into the pipe and heat the air.Anyone feel challenged?

Hello fuel miser,

With the cold-air setup, insulating the piping will not be necessary as the heat will not heat up the piping enough to affect the air temperature going through it. Here is a picture of a cold-air setup I did with my WeaponR Dragon intake on a 2GR-FE-->

Notice that the piping is not insulated. The piping never gets cold or warmed up, even after extended city and/or highway driving. I did a coolant throttle body bypass mod as well so the throttle body does not get heated up anymore. So the whole thing stays cool. There was another member at a RAV4 site that used the exact same piping I used, from the exact same source (Verocious Motorsports), using the part number I provided. They tested the outside temperature vs the temperature at the Maf sensor. This is what they saw -->

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Ni-954Aovh4/S_U02J3kjyI/AAAAAAAABEI/6dggMuOl27k

Well' date=' at any rate, I wanted to give you a "proof in the pudding" picture from my drive in to work this morning (btw, I always take numbers while on cruise control @ about 70 mph after the engine has warmed up to make sure it's a scientific, apples-to apples comparison):

As you can see, "Outside" and IA (Incoming Air) are both 57 degrees (F)! It was like this for the entire time I was on the Thruway. I've never seen that before this intake setup 8) .[/quote']

From here --> http://rav4world.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=20128&postdays=0&postorder=asc&&start=330

This is not to say that your results will not be different but there is a chance that you will have similar results since it is the same engine. Good luck either way! I hope to see data that supports that you get ambient temps as well.

[fuel miser]

57 F is 13 C which is not hot outside air temp and only for 15 minutes.

I am not saying the test is inconclusive but do it on a hot day 40 C in a built up environment, again with stop start driving in congested city driving and then again even with some restriction of the inlet air from cars/trucks in front and for do them all for longer.

Also the results will vary if you do this on-road or off-road.

Has anyone done the test on the factory setup?

What is the air temp on the engine side of the air filter? Stock, block bypassed and modified CAI. Do this for the above scenarios and you might have some very useful data to present.

Maybe I should be careful asking for this to be done as I regularly get attacked for my comments.

And I am not having a go at anyone or their comments.

[Myxalplyx]

57 F is 13 C which is not hot outside air temp and only for 15 minutes.

I am not saying the test is inconclusive but do it on a hot day 40 C in a built up environment, again with stop start driving in congested city driving and then again even with some restriction of the inlet air from cars/trucks in front and for do them all for longer.

Also the results will vary if you do this on-road or off-road.

Has anyone done the test on the factory setup?

What is the air temp on the engine side of the air filter? Stock, block bypassed and modified CAI. Do this for the above scenarios and you might have some very useful data to present.

Maybe I should be careful asking for this to be done as I regularly get attacked for my comments.

And I am not having a go at anyone or their comments.

Well, here's another quote from the same forum member on other tests he did prior to doing the setup I have. -->

Latest modification/adjustment: Custom Heat Shield (also recall that the S&B filtter has an inverted cone filter element on its end' date=' so this mod will help draw cooler air as well as isolate (somewhat) the hotter engine-side air from the intake.

The scanguage is measuring only 1-2 degree warmer air @ the MAF sensor than ambient air temperature (at almost all times, except idle/slow traffic). Even at idle the the incoming air temperature is measurably cooler than my last set up (just the short ram with the S&B filter). This setup will not duplicate the cooler air achieved in a CAI (like Myxaplyx's), but is achieving MEASURABLY cooler incoming air as compared to without a heat shield. In the old setup, the scanguage was showing 4-10 degree warmer air (MAF compared to ambient). As I'm now at a range of 1-2 degrees, this is certainly great news as cooler, denser air means more horsepower! [/quote']

The S&B air filter is what he switched to after getting rid of the Weapon R dragon air filter (which I found to be very restrictive). Even still, I'd encourage folks to be doubtful and test these things at their own leisure. It's fun stuff! TRDV6RAV4 and I are convinced already but others should try this as well if they are really interested. I have a scan gauge as well but have not got it to work on my vehicle. If one is available and you have the means to use it, test it out and let people know your results. I love to compare notes and learn from what others experience as well.

Edit: I searched a little more to see if I could find more info from the poster. Here's one for the road-->

http://rav4world.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=23307&start=0

Further' date=' I tracked the heat picked up by the temp. sensor at the MAF (in the intake) from the original OEM airbox configuration, to the one I mentioned above, and then with my Dragon Ram. I found what I mentioned above (very hot air) with the half-A$$ mod. Stock and the Dragon Ram are comparable - which was wonderful news to me!!!! (the sensor shows that it's about 4 degrees above outside (of the engine bay) ambient temperature in both configurations once you start moving. Both configurations (stock and WR) showed hotter air coming in when the vehicle is not moving (with the engine on). The difference is that stock has slightly cooler air when compared here (due to that roundabout cool air tube that is ultimately choking the engine - it's like breathing through a straw!!). So, long story short, you are still getting quite cool air into the engine with a short ram intake (although the further away from the heat source you can get the inlet of your intake, obviously the greater the hp, given the same CFM are getting to the engine).[/quote']

It is still not conclusive but better than nothing. Conclusive enough for me though. :)

Edited May 30, 2010 by Myxalplyx

[DJKOR]

Now, bush mechanic wannabe Daryl though he would try something a little crazy...

... Soon proceeded to jizz in his pants, then sh** in them (as a figure of speech... well this part anyways).

Now what you see above obviously isn't the final product. I was doing a test run to see whether or not this is going to be worth spending more time and money on. Since Ash had tried an intake and got himself a CEL, I wasn't so keen on the idea of spending a bit of money on something that will take a fair bit of time to get working and then costing more money etc. Anyways, you get the point.

Well, I checked that everything was all put together tight, then went to start the car. Everything started fine which was a bit of relief. I then just lightly revved it to make sure the CEL wasn't just waiting to pop up. Seemed okay... definitely a bit louder. Only thing I noticed was on the return to idle, it sounded a bit iffy like it was trying to get itself into rhythm again.

I let it idle for a couple of minutes then thought I would head out.

I drove it gently for a kilometre so I could feel if everything was still alright. Then I gave it some. First some quick bits off acceleration. OMG did it sound good! I couldn't believe that my supercharger was actually making some noise... noise like a supercharger should. Wasn't crazy good like the traditional supercharger whine, but boy did it still sound loud and sweet. Then I accelerated onto the highway giving it redline in 2nd. All appeared to be okay.

Upon exiting the highway, I was driving through some quiet streets giving it some acceleration here and there. Still sounding great and running like normal. Then after coasting for a bit, I decide to tap the throttle to get another listen. This is when I started to worry.

I heard three quick 'pop' sounds. Not loud, but like a 'golf clap'. Immediately after, I saw my CEL come on and thought 'f***'. I also noticed my charge light come on, but I didn't think of it at that immediate moment in time. I eased on the accelerator again and it didn't accelerate. I thought it must have been a limp mode or something. It was only till there was a slight bend in the road did I realise why the accelerator didn't work... the car was off. I couldn't easily tell at 50km/h since the tire noise is louder than the engine to start with.

So it seems that in that moment I tapped the throttle, the engine decided to go lean (I would assume), and then just stop.

I pulled over, thinking I must have really done it this time, pressed the start button with the selector in neutral and my foot on the brake, and the engine started up again.

I then proceeded to drive it home carefully, while still putting my foot down a couple of times, and it seemed to be okay again. When I got home, I revved the engine a bit to compare to before, and it seemed to return to idle like normal again. I'm not sure if the ECU has adjusted, or whether I'm just imagining things.

Now I'm a bit worried and don't know what to do. One part of me wants to keep it this way (obviously removing the lower part of the filter box and securing the pod with a bracket I have) and see how it behaves over the course of tomorrow (then replace that upper rubber hose etc). The other part is telling me that this is not going to do it good and I better scrap the idea before something happens.

[Steven]

**** that doesn't sound good.

I wonder if the air filter has somehow affected the throttle body bypass, and the pop's you heard was the compressed air somehow escaping through the intake somewhere? This would also have leaned out the intake big time, and it sounds like the ECU did the right thing by shutting down the engine.

[SecaBoy]

to be honest, i would get the code read from the ecu to make sure what the issue was...

(check that hose to the actuator first though.. :P haha)

if the CEL hasnt come up again, then i'd say whatever it was has sorted itself out...

try taking it for another drive and see what happens... just take it easy for a while till the ecu sorts its sh!t out...

good luck! the sound on WOT must be so nice... *cries*