Gearbox oil and Gear shifting problems

[spec_black]

how much do we need???

and ZEEROLLA, how can you get 3 litres for $75 of CASTROL SYNTRAX???

I've went to repco, its $37/Litre.

castrol syntrax is $28/L at supercheap auto

repco jibbed ya

[shaohaok]

lol, $37/L cost more than redline stuff :P

[vyets]

lol tony its under your car ill try find the diy.

umm u can get redline oil from bursons auto parts

aprox 100 for 3 liters we need i think 2.8 or something not sure.

http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=121104

thats for the celica but good enough.

Edited June 16, 2006 by vyets

[nubbie]

wtf?!

$28!! did i hear it wrong.. mayb he said $27... i doubt it

so 3 litres should do

thx!

[ZEEROLLA]

wtf?!

$28!! did i hear it wrong.. mayb he said $27... i doubt it

so 3 litres should do

thx!

I paid $25/litre from Auto1 the last time i bought mine about a year ago, maybe the prices have gone up a little since. Wait till Supercheap have sales, u can get them cheap. :P We should only need approx 2.3litres of oil as per the car's manual, but Toyota "Used it" all up the last time i gave them 3 litres, i guess someone got thirsty.

[milten]

help please

Redline over $100 for 3 litres. Castrol Syntrax $75 for 3 litres. Redline is GL4, Castrol is GL5, Redline says GL4 is better for synchros than GL5 oils. I have had both oils (MT90 and Syntrax), Syntrax is good for track use, super smooth. MT90 is 75W90 as well, there is even GL6 oil by other manufacturers. As far as i know the Stivo uses 75W90 GL4 or GL5.

Do u have example of GL6 oil?

Thanx in advance

Alex

[KaZe-]

Hey all,

im having problems shifting 1st > 2nd > 3rd > 4th.

1st > 2nd - at hi revs is a hard crunch

2nd > 3rd - at hi revs it is really hard to get out of 2nd gear and into 3rd and a slight quiet crunch

3rd > 4th - at hi revs is a slight quiet crunch but goes in easy

also at lower revs it crunches slightly when i down shift with rev matching and even a slight crunch when i go in gears normally

i was thinking of replacing the syncros whilst im doing my clutch and flywheel

but do u guys reckon i should replace the oil with "Redline MT90" and try it out before i start changing my syncros?? or just change the syncros??

Thanks in advance

Steve,

[CHA54]

I'd change the oil to Castrol VMX80 and adjust the clutch properly. If it still crunches then you're looking at an expensive rebuild.

[Dead]

Whatever oil my godfather used in the box last time he serviced it was uber. I'll find out and post up here.

I only had the usual 1st to 2nd crunch here and there, but after realising that shifting at 7,500rpm in 1st is actually better, I don't have that problem anymore (the torque you then have in the rev range once you hit 2nd pushes you back up quicker).

A tip I learnt recently from The Brothers Taylor and Father.

[RL30WA]

I changed my gear oil @ 40.000 service at toyota( only cost me less than $60 by using genuine product according to the service advisor) I requested to changed it just simply because i always complain to them about crunchy gear box. All this while i thought i am the only one that keep compaining about the bloody hard shift gear box. Guess what...........It makes no much different but seems to smoothen out a bit. I seriously think that this gear box really built for high rev ( seems easy to shift on high rev).

p/s very good topic to bring up !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[KaZe-]

orrite cool thanks for the replys

[AE102]

gearbox!  The issue is with the selector cables and selector, especially the selector when the ball loosens with its plastic enclosure, rattle city here we come again!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Is there a fix for this problem of the selector? Can they just change the ball and plastic enclosure and are they supposed to be consumables?

Is this related to the "gear rattles" problem?

My experience is that when the gearbox is cold and at low speeds (e.g. 3-4K rpm), it is difficult to move the selector into the "gear sites". Most frequently, it appears difficult even to find the "gear gate" itself (e.g. from 1st to 2nd): my right hand is ... searching around.

Everything becomes smooth when the car is warm and/or I accelerate very hard during changes. We could say that this car was built to be driven really fast; constantly above 5k rpm!

This means driving within the city becomes a nightmare!

My clutch has been replaced because of burning smells in routine driving maneuvers; it was slipping very easily. It is rather very tight now but I think this should be the right situation.

I had "gear rattles" appearing above 4.5-5K rpm but my mechanics somehow fixed it up to the lift point. Probaly by inserting some of the usual soft materials.

There has been no recall for selector cables change in Europe.

the cable selectors where upgraded in Europe - i have them fitted. there are also bearing issues and the clutch has been upgraded twice along with an upgraded master cylinder. booking my car in for a box rebuild so hopefully........... i changed oil to valvoline full synthetic and it made a difference but when cold its a nightmare to select 2nd and even when fully warm 3rd is notchy. i thought these problems were only happening with euro corolla's? i thought yours were Jap built?

Edited May 14, 2008 by AE102

[selyaT]

The ones with the 2ZZ-GE are South African built <_<

The ones with the 1ZZ-FE are Japan built caucasians are just too damn tall! (See lights camera action section for the reference lol)

[AE102]

The ones with the 2ZZ-GE are South African built <_<

The ones with the 1ZZ-FE are Japan built caucasians are just too damn tall! (See lights camera action section for the reference lol)

our 2ZZ-GE's are built 6 miles from me house in Deeside and the cars assembled in Derby - you can really tell they aint Jap built first thing i did on the car was take the "made in UK" sticker off - British built aint what it used to be!

Edited May 15, 2008 by AE102

[AndrewLy]

Whatever oil my godfather used in the box last time he serviced it was uber. I'll find out and post up here.

I only had the usual 1st to 2nd crunch here and there, but after realising that shifting at 7,500rpm in 1st is actually better, I don't have that problem anymore (the torque you then have in the rev range once you hit 2nd pushes you back up quicker).

A tip I learnt recently from The Brothers Taylor and Father.

I wonder if it your method would result in having the same speed as double clutching and landing lift in 2nd.

i always get too excited and shift too quickly in to 2nd which makes its a slow change

and when i do it properly i find that it takes a while to get into gear giving me a mini pause in acceleration.

in saying that, i am probably just a crappy driver

Any thoughts?

Edited May 16, 2008 by AndrewLy

[Dead]

Whatever oil my godfather used in the box last time he serviced it was uber. I'll find out and post up here.

I only had the usual 1st to 2nd crunch here and there, but after realising that shifting at 7,500rpm in 1st is actually better, I don't have that problem anymore (the torque you then have in the rev range once you hit 2nd pushes you back up quicker).

A tip I learnt recently from The Brothers Taylor and Father.

I wonder if it your method would result in having the same speed as double clutching and landing lift in 2nd.

i always get too excited and shift too quickly in to 2nd which makes its a slow change

and when i do it properly i find that it takes a while to get into gear giving me a mini pause in acceleration.

in saying that, i am probably just a crappy driver

Any thoughts?

My belief is that the method I started using enables you to be quicker from 1st to 2nd. I slowly learnt to not gauge the speed of my car by the revs I'm putting out, and actually focus on the speedo more when doing the 1st - 2nd transition.

eg:

Speaking of my godfather, when I was younger and watching his son race at Oran Park, he told me to block my ears and simply gauge the speed of cars by looking at them. I found that one particular car was quicker than others around one corner because he chose to stay in a higher gear, which in turn pushed him out of the corner faster.

Once again, cheers to the Taylors for the methodology lol.

[Les]

This topic is real helpful guys.

Mum has an AE101 (96?) Corolla. It's due for a gear oil change.

Can anyone point me in the right direction as to where the drain plug and fill up plug is - photos would speak a thousand words. It probably sits on the gearbox itself but it has been a while since I have gotten under any car so if no one has done it, tips and pics and tips would be great !

Either way, I will have a go and post some pics when I am done.

[Hiro]

This topic is real helpful guys.

Mum has an AE101 (96?) Corolla. It's due for a gear oil change.

Can anyone point me in the right direction as to where the drain plug and fill up plug is - photos would speak a thousand words. It probably sits on the gearbox itself but it has been a while since I have gotten under any car so if no one has done it, tips and pics and tips would be great !

Either way, I will have a go and post some pics when I am done.

Firstly, just checking, is it manual? A lot of the AE10x series are autos (horrible little things), glad my parents were sensible and got the manual.

Make sure the car is cold (you don't want hot gearbox oil burning your hands). Jack the front of the car up, place on chassis stands and remove the left-side plastic splashguard (if you're sitting in the driver's seat, so the one on the right if you're looking from the front of the car). Should just be a bunch of little bolts and screws, just remember which ones go back where. Now, the filler plug is about half-way up the front of the gearbox, about 15-20cm from the flywheel. The drain plug is on the bottom of the gearbox, underneath where the left-hand driveshaft exits the diff.

To check the oil level, undo the filler plug and stick your finger or a bit of wire into the filler hole. The oil level should be even or just below the lip of the hole.

To drain the oil, undo the filler plug (so you know you can fill it up again, and also to allow air into the box), then place a container under the drain plug and undo the plug, and let the oil drain out (should be 2.6L). Put the drain plug back in, and fill up with fresh oil from the filler hole using an oil-gun. If you don't have an oil-gun, try a funnel and a long piece of hose so you can fill it from the top of the engine bay. Remember it only needs a bit over two and a half litres, so stop and check repeatedly that the level isn't over the lip of the filler plug. Once filled, replace plug and bolt splashguard back on, and you're done.

Picture's a bit dark, but you should be able to see everything you need.

[Les]

Hi mate,

It is a MANual and I have to say, that is an awesome set of instructions. I had a general idea of what needed doing, but your step by step tutorial is super helpful !

Now where is my oil gun ...

[scrolla]

Just been to Toyota and they reckon that sportivo gearbox oil doesnt need changing.

Is this true, if not at what kms does it need changing.

[Dead]

Just been to Toyota and they reckon that sportivo gearbox oil doesnt need changing.

Doesn't need changing 'ever'?

If so, I'm actually not overly shocked they would say that. If anyone is going to know 'anything' about our cars, it's actually NOT Toyota Australia.

[thomasz]

yes, hope your method would result in having the same speed.

[Guni]

I use to just have the fully synthetic 75W90 (don't know and don't care what it is) in it. Notchy ay every revs and notchy at every speed or temp. Shifting was a nightmare! Totally. I would stay up in the middle of then night and wander how come its so *****. And this was after a full fluid drain when I got the car (2nd hand). So *****. I of course complained and after a week, I brought it back (to my mechanic) and this time he had 3 x 1 liter bottle of redline lightweight shockproof.

It was a blue liquid, i swore it could almost glow in the dark! He did a full flush of the old/new gear oil and put this stuff in. Test drove it, was much better but still notchy when changing gears at high revs. Low revs is OK (notice the OK and JUST OK). A bit smoother when shifting. As you can read some of my posts, I was still biatching about it. Cold starts in the morning was also just so so ............

Then I found out about Roil but couldn't get it. So I went the best of the worse thing, Nulon G70! Its a manual gearbox and diff conditioner. Also good for LSD. Having said that, it costs me $9.75 per 125ml bottle at K-Mart (25% sale). I was suppose to use 125ml for every 2 liter of gear oil. None the less, I was fed up so I put 2 bottles in for only 2.3 liters of gear oil. That is 250ml meant for 4 liters of gear oil.

I tell you, smooth as ssssssssssssssss ................................. No prblems in cold. No problems at low revs. No problems at high revs ........

All fixed. Shifting has been wonderful !

To put it in another word .......... uber ???

[CHA54]

redline state that shockproof oil isn't for syncrhomesh transaxles.

[SuperDave]

It'll feel good for a while, a year more or less, then it'll be even worse.