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Posted

I’ve been putting off installing my reverse camera that came with my new head unit for a few days due to the lack of a complete guide all in the one place. But yesterday I decided to bite the bullet and go for it. I’m going to assume the reader is a complete beginner and explain everything in detail and hope it makes it a bit easier for someone in the future. My Head Unit is listed on eBay as HD LCD CAR DVD GPS 2007/08/09 TOYOTA AURION CAMRY DVB-T from seller autome305. I have written a review of the unit itself here. The installation may differ depending on the camera that you have, but the camera I have looks like this.

post-14069-1263078603_thumb.jpg

The camera is designed to be screwed on above the number plate and attached with the included screws. The entire installation process working as a complete beginner took around 2 hours working slowing and carefully. In retrospect, it was quite an easy although time consuming job and I’m definitely pleased with the result. The camera itself comes with 2 cables: a standard yellow RCA cable and a 12 volt cable, both of which plug into the camera. The power is accessed through the reverse light and the RCA cable runs from the boot to the head unit. The set up I am going to write up now does not automatically bring up the camera on screen when reverse is selected, but I’m happy with this as I don’t believe the camera is always necessary. All you need to do to access the camera is press menu and press the CAM button on the screen. Now let’s get into the set up.

What You’ll Need:

- Camera.

- Cables.

- Drill.

- Silicone.

- Coat Hanger.

- Screwdriver.

- Wire Taps.

STEP ONE: REMOVAL OF TRIM:

An important note when it comes to trim removal: Make sure that all clips are removed before you try to put them back in. It took me awhile to figure this out and was very frustrating.

As the title suggests, the first thing you’re going to do is remove all the necessary trim to drill and run the cables through. The trims come off by simply pulling quickly away from the panel. Any that don’t come out can be removed by using 2 flat head screw drivers to lever them out. Care should be taken in this step as the white clips that hold the trims in place are a pain to get out at times and are definitely the most frustrating part of this installation. I broke quite a few trying to get them out. If anyone knows of an easy way to get them out, please let me know. Starting at the boot the trims you are going to want to take out are the boot lid trim. This is quite easy as the black clips are easy to get out. Just put the clips somewhere for later. The next thing to do is to take out the floor of the boot and remove the entire piece of carpet as well as the wood underneath it. This allows you to remove the trim on the left side of the boot and have access to the cable hole. All the side trims simply pull off as well. All the removed trims can be seen in this photo. Note the cabling hole circled in red. This is where you run the cable through.

post-14069-1263078854_thumb.jpg

The Next thing you are going to want to remove are the door trims along the side of the car starting with the door pillar and forward kick panel before moving on to the door trims.

STEP TWO: FITTING OF CAMERA.

To fit the camera was easy. I simply found the middle, marked out where the screws were going and the cables had to be run through and drilled the holes. Make sure you only drill the holes just big enough to fit the screws through or you will have to find something bigger. The cables were inserted through a 12 mm hole I drilled. My advice with drilling is to start with a small bit and work your way up. It’s easier to correct any mistakes and is neater. The camera was simply screwed in and the holes were covered in silicone to waterproof them. The final job looks like this.

post-14069-1263079013_thumb.jpg

STEP THREE: ATTACHING THE CABLES:

To get power for the camera, I just looked at the back of the car and saw which wires connected to the reverse lights and tapped into them with some wire taps. You can use a soldering Iron instead, but this is not as permanent and much easier in my opinion. The completed work can be seen in this photo, the wire taps are blue.

post-14069-1263079097_thumb.jpg

That is the power taken care of. Whenever reverse is selected, the camera has power. Running the RCA lead was simple. All I did was tape it along the existing wires and run it through the cable hole. If are working in a bright environment this process is easy. What I did was straightened a coat hanger and make a small loop at the end to lock the cable in. I then simply grabbed the top corner of the back seat and looked for day light. I pushed the coat hanger through, attached the RCA cable from the boot and pulled it through. Once this was done I ran it along side the other wiring all the way to the front foot well. Once this has been done, reinstall the trim starting with the pillar the forward most kick panel. After that, push the 2 door trim back on. The only thing left to do now is to attach the RCA cable to the head unit. Head unit removal is easy thanks to DJKOR’s guide here. If you open the glove box and look to the left side you will see a small hole with some cabling inside. Run the coat hanger through this hole and down to the foot well. Pull the cable through, behind the console and through the hole on the right hand side and attach to the head unit. The coat hanger is a big help here as well as the use of a torch to see which holes line up where. It is a simple matter to run the cable through and attach the head unit so I won’t go into detail there. All you need to do is install the RCA cable to the plug that says “Camera” and reinstall the head unit. Before you put everything back together, turn the car on and put it in reverse and check that you have a picture as well as your reverse lights working. This shouldn’t be a problem if you have followed the instructions and been careful. All that is left to do now is put everything back in starting with the Head Unit and moving to the boot trims. If you got them off easily, just reverse the process and you’ll be fine.

That’s about everything you’ll need to know. It’s a fairly long write up for a simple process but it has the beginner in mind. Thanks for reading and best of luck. Enjoy.

Adam.


Posted
well done mate... very very helpful! :)

daryl, could you add this to your FAQ?

Or have I already done so???

LOL.... I've been meaning to do it, but I got a bit lazy. I'll add it now underneath the head unit question.

Edit: Has now been added...

Q) Can I add a reversing camera to my stock navigation head unit? How about mounting the camera?

A)
Certainly. There has been a guide written by Aurion ZR6 about adding the reverse camera functionality to the stock navigation head unit. This can be seen in the first and second link below. Alternatively, there are a range of cameras available and mounting options vary. There is also a guide (third link below) by legend_of_lazz that can help with this.

Threads of interest:

(external webpage)

Posted

Nice write up, I'm sure a lot of people will appreciate this and find it very useful.


Posted
I’ve been putting off installing my reverse camera that came with my new head unit for a few days due to the lack of a complete guide all in the one place. But yesterday I decided to bite the bullet and go for it. I’m going to assume the reader is a complete beginner and explain everything in detail and hope it makes it a bit easier for someone in the future. My Head Unit is listed on eBay as HD LCD CAR DVD GPS 2007/08/09 TOYOTA AURION CAMRY DVB-T from seller autome305. I have written a review of the unit itself here. The installation may differ depending on the camera that you have, but the camera I have looks like this.

post-14069-1263078603_thumb.jpg

The camera is designed to be screwed on above the number plate and attached with the included screws. The entire installation process working as a complete beginner took around 2 hours working slowing and carefully. In retrospect, it was quite an easy although time consuming job and I’m definitely pleased with the result. The camera itself comes with 2 cables: a standard yellow RCA cable and a 12 volt cable, both of which plug into the camera. The power is accessed through the reverse light and the RCA cable runs from the boot to the head unit. The set up I am going to write up now does not automatically bring up the camera on screen when reverse is selected, but I’m happy with this as I don’t believe the camera is always necessary. All you need to do to access the camera is press menu and press the CAM button on the screen. Now let’s get into the set up.

What You’ll Need:

- Camera.

- Cables.

- Drill.

- Silicone.

- Coat Hanger.

- Screwdriver.

- Wire Taps.

STEP ONE: REMOVAL OF TRIM:

An important note when it comes to trim removal: Make sure that all clips are removed before you try to put them back in. It took me awhile to figure this out and was very frustrating.

As the title suggests, the first thing you’re going to do is remove all the necessary trim to drill and run the cables through. The trims come off by simply pulling quickly away from the panel. Any that don’t come out can be removed by using 2 flat head screw drivers to lever them out. Care should be taken in this step as the white clips that hold the trims in place are a pain to get out at times and are definitely the most frustrating part of this installation. I broke quite a few trying to get them out. If anyone knows of an easy way to get them out, please let me know. Starting at the boot the trims you are going to want to take out are the boot lid trim. This is quite easy as the black clips are easy to get out. Just put the clips somewhere for later. The next thing to do is to take out the floor of the boot and remove the entire piece of carpet as well as the wood underneath it. This allows you to remove the trim on the left side of the boot and have access to the cable hole. All the side trims simply pull off as well. All the removed trims can be seen in this photo. Note the cabling hole circled in red. This is where you run the cable through.

post-14069-1263078854_thumb.jpg

The Next thing you are going to want to remove are the door trims along the side of the car starting with the door pillar and forward kick panel before moving on to the door trims.

STEP TWO: FITTING OF CAMERA.

To fit the camera was easy. I simply found the middle, marked out where the screws were going and the cables had to be run through and drilled the holes. Make sure you only drill the holes just big enough to fit the screws through or you will have to find something bigger. The cables were inserted through a 12 mm hole I drilled. My advice with drilling is to start with a small bit and work your way up. It’s easier to correct any mistakes and is neater. The camera was simply screwed in and the holes were covered in silicone to waterproof them. The final job looks like this.

post-14069-1263079013_thumb.jpg

STEP THREE: ATTACHING THE CABLES:

To get power for the camera, I just looked at the back of the car and saw which wires connected to the reverse lights and tapped into them with some wire taps. You can use a soldering Iron instead, but this is not as permanent and much easier in my opinion. The completed work can be seen in this photo, the wire taps are blue.

post-14069-1263079097_thumb.jpg

That is the power taken care of. Whenever reverse is selected, the camera has power. Running the RCA lead was simple. All I did was tape it along the existing wires and run it through the cable hole. If are working in a bright environment this process is easy. What I did was straightened a coat hanger and make a small loop at the end to lock the cable in. I then simply grabbed the top corner of the back seat and looked for day light. I pushed the coat hanger through, attached the RCA cable from the boot and pulled it through. Once this was done I ran it along side the other wiring all the way to the front foot well. Once this has been done, reinstall the trim starting with the pillar the forward most kick panel. After that, push the 2 door trim back on. The only thing left to do now is to attach the RCA cable to the head unit. Head unit removal is easy thanks to DJKOR’s guide here. If you open the glove box and look to the left side you will see a small hole with some cabling inside. Run the coat hanger through this hole and down to the foot well. Pull the cable through, behind the console and through the hole on the right hand side and attach to the head unit. The coat hanger is a big help here as well as the use of a torch to see which holes line up where. It is a simple matter to run the cable through and attach the head unit so I won’t go into detail there. All you need to do is install the RCA cable to the plug that says “Camera” and reinstall the head unit. Before you put everything back together, turn the car on and put it in reverse and check that you have a picture as well as your reverse lights working. This shouldn’t be a problem if you have followed the instructions and been careful. All that is left to do now is put everything back in starting with the Head Unit and moving to the boot trims. If you got them off easily, just reverse the process and you’ll be fine.

That’s about everything you’ll need to know. It’s a fairly long write up for a simple process but it has the beginner in mind. Thanks for reading and best of luck. Enjoy.

Adam.

Cool...Great write up.... I am thinking of getting this installed soon.

Anyway, I have a question regarding the camera installation, specifically on this unit >>> HD LCD CAR DVD GPS 2007/08/09 TOYOTA AURION CAMRY DVB-T from ebay seller " autome305 ".

I have read through quite a number of post and different Aurion owners seems to wire the video feed up differently; which I assume depending on the Aurion models / camera wiring / head unit build itself. (i.e some wired up to the socket found near passenger kick plate, some wired directly to rear of the head unit, some simply plugged in). As for the power supply to camera, I can only assume most owners would power the camera by tapping into the reverse light on the boot lid itself.

I am wondering whether the camera on this unit (conveniently plugged in directly to the rear of the headunit) be set such that it comes on automatically when the car is put in reverse, rather than having to manually turning it on as required? Can this unit be wired such that it will come on automatically?

Thanks in advance for further clarification.

Posted

I have no idea. Daryl is the man for that question. I was content in knowing I can use it if I need it. So I really have no idea.

Posted
I have no idea. Daryl is the man for that question. I was content in knowing I can use it if I need it. So I really have no idea.

I can't directly comment with respect to the new 'updated Auspack' head unit. All I can say is that mine has a reverse trigger on it so when you put the car into reverse, the head unit will automatically switch to the revers camera mode. I would assume the new head unit is the same, but from previous posts, I have heard conflicting answers.

As for where to tap into the +12v source, the passenger side kick panel is the best spot. There is a wire there, I have indicated it before but others have had mixed results, that provides power to the reverse lights so therefore it will be +12v when the car is in reverse. This is what I used to trigger the head unit to go into reverse mode.

But as I said, I can't confirm the operation of the new head unit.

Posted
As for where to tap into the +12v source, the passenger side kick panel is the best spot. There is a wire there, I have indicated it before but others have had mixed results, that provides power to the reverse lights so therefore it will be +12v when the car is in reverse. This is what I used to trigger the head unit to go into reverse mode.

An update on my response from ages ago:

Sorry for the thread revival, but to give an update on this, I have had reports that the red wire with silver dot is not the right wire. Since everyone seems to give up after they find it is the wrong wire, I have gone back and double checked the harness.

I do apologize as this is an honest mistake, but this is why I suggest people pick up a cheap multimeter if they plan on playing with the wiring of their car. This way you can find stuff out like this without having to ask.

Anyways, the wire you need to tap into is the thin red wire with no other markings on it. I have indicated this wire in the attached photos:

dsc02442lr2.jpg

dsc05688f.jpg

Posted
I have no idea. Daryl is the man for that question. I was content in knowing I can use it if I need it. So I really have no idea.

I can't directly comment with respect to the new 'updated Auspack' head unit. All I can say is that mine has a reverse trigger on it so when you put the car into reverse, the head unit will automatically switch to the revers camera mode. I would assume the new head unit is the same, but from previous posts, I have heard conflicting answers.

As for where to tap into the +12v source, the passenger side kick panel is the best spot. There is a wire there, I have indicated it before but others have had mixed results, that provides power to the reverse lights so therefore it will be +12v when the car is in reverse. This is what I used to trigger the head unit to go into reverse mode.

But as I said, I can't confirm the operation of the new head unit.

Ok, thanks to both Adam and Daryl for the replies....

Just seems a bit odd that the reverse camera mode does not come out automatically when reverse gear is selected .. unless somewhere in the menu / settings of the new 'auspack', there is a provision to enable / disable (default) this automated function. There isn't another 'trigger' cable that we need to connect from car's +12V to head unit, right?

Back on the camera power wiring issue, does this means that it really makes no difference if owners choose to power the reverse camera power either by tapping into the red & black wire at the reverse light itself or to the red & black wire at the hardness in the passenger side kick panel?

If this is the case, any reason why one would choose to run the camera power cables all the way to the front passenger kick panel as oppose to the rear reverse light which is a lot closer?

Hope everyone has a great week ahead... :)

Posted
Back on the camera power wiring issue, does this means that it really makes no difference if owners choose to power the reverse camera power either by tapping into the red & black wire at the reverse light itself or to the red & black wire at the hardness in the passenger side kick panel?

If this is the case, any reason why one would choose to run the camera power cables all the way to the front passenger kick panel as oppose to the rear reverse light which is a lot closer?

No it doesn't make a difference because the wires in the passenger kick panel run to the boot for the reverse lights.

If you read though the procedures and hints that have been said, you will see that I have recommended to connect the camera power to the reverse light (legend_of_lazz even said this in the first post here) due to the fact that it is less than a metre away, and that to connect the reverse trigger to the wire in the passenger footwell because it would be pointless to run a wire from the head unit all the way to the boot just for the reverse trigger.

Posted
Back on the camera power wiring issue, does this means that it really makes no difference if owners choose to power the reverse camera power either by tapping into the red & black wire at the reverse light itself or to the red & black wire at the hardness in the passenger side kick panel?

If this is the case, any reason why one would choose to run the camera power cables all the way to the front passenger kick panel as oppose to the rear reverse light which is a lot closer?

No it doesn't make a difference because the wires in the passenger kick panel run to the boot for the reverse lights.

If you read though the procedures and hints that have been said, you will see that I have recommended to connect the camera power to the reverse light (legend_of_lazz even said this in the first post here) due to the fact that it is less than a metre away, and that to connect the reverse trigger to the wire in the passenger footwell because it would be pointless to run a wire from the head unit all the way to the boot just for the reverse trigger.

OK.... now I understand.... thanks for your help

(a) camera power cables (red & black) tapped into the reverse light

(B) head unit trigger to +12V red cable in passenger kick plate (indicated in the second photo of your previous post)

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Hi Guys, I'm researching on how to install this camera. The hugh drill is enough to scare me off. I read someone has posted before on drilling directly through the trim plastic and metal in one go. I know removing the trim is "challenging" so trying to avoid this. Is drilling through directly actually doable without causing massive damage ?

Thanks.

post-4985-1268920092_thumb.jpg

post-4985-1268920215_thumb.jpg

Edited by joelau007
  • 11 months later...
Posted

Does anyone have a photo that shows where the reverse camera is installed on the aurion pressara? I getting one installed and can see most install it above the licence plate but from what I have seen that is not where it sits for the Pressara?

Posted

Hi Guys, I'm researching on how to install this camera. The hugh drill is enough to scare me off. I read someone has posted before on drilling directly through the trim plastic and metal in one go. I know removing the trim is "challenging" so trying to avoid this. Is drilling through directly actually doable without causing massive damage ?

Thanks.

that's the same camera as mine, i haven't installed it yet, but if it involves drilling, i think i'll just stick to my parking sensors for now. :P

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

parking sensors does not help with safety

I went as far as getting a gps just for rear view camera

even planned for wireless

hundreds of dollars and maybe 10 hours of labour later I was without the feature

finally have some sort of setup yesterday

cameram.jpg

I am also afraid of using the drill too :unsure:

1. detached the key hole on the boot

2. inserted my camera cables from the outside

3. place small bit of foam tape

4. tied the camera to the inside with a few strings through the hole

dscf5343.jpg

this is the view you get from position of the key hole

the white bar is the boot

photo0159u.jpg

wires through ski-port and lying on backseat :whistling:

enter the glovebox and then through the hole onto the dash

coat hanger helped

I lost hours and lots of sweat playing with wires, connectors and wireless module

just wanted to have it now

I'll be looking for suggestions of better mounting

for strength? centre view? resistance to automatic car wash? :o

Posted

routing the wires up the left side of the vehicle is easy. with the photos shown by OP pass them thru the l/h upper hole and down behind the l/h/r outer seat piece then under the l/h/r scuff plate. follow the wiring loom already there and thru the "b" pilar under the l/h/f scuff plate past the l/h/f kick panel. with the glovebox removed pass the wires up to the rear of the head unit and tie them back. in the early days 1 wire for towbar was needed to run to the front fuse box in this fashion

the camera mount has a cut out area central of the number plate. that camera looks like the genuine one and seems it would snap right in the. i have a zr sportivo and there is a rectangular type cutout area. i have not fitted a camera to an aurion , done reverse sensors and towbars. i have fitted cameras to hilux, rav4 and corolla hatches - aurion is easier.

post-18390-0-99690300-1301182784_thumb.j

Posted

I have put the cables under the door trims since

but put the cable behind the glovebox yet

the cutout area above my number plate looks like joelau007's pic

just a faint line marking out the area, not quite the thick line that you have

(your one looks like it can just snap out?)

was the same area look like from inside the boot?

for mine it appears to have nothing int the same area (metal plate inside the boot)

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

Is there anyone who has installed a camera into a 2007 Altise Camry? The rear ends are all slightly different and I don't think this model came with the option of reverse camera, and I can't really figure out a suitable place to attach it.

Posted

Is there anyone who has installed a camera into a 2007 Altise Camry? The rear ends are all slightly different and I don't think this model came with the option of reverse camera, and I can't really figure out a suitable place to attach it.

How about dead centre above the number plate?

Posted

Is there anyone who has installed a camera into a 2007 Altise Camry? The rear ends are all slightly different and I don't think this model came with the option of reverse camera, and I can't really figure out a suitable place to attach it.

How about dead centre above the number plate?

The gap between the top of the number plate and the lip that comes over the plate is only a couple mm and I don't think there is enough room to drill. I haven't actually received the head unit and camera package yet, so I'm just trying to suss it out from the picture and looking at the boot.

370520376_o.jpg

This is the camera type, as you can see it comes with a bracket. I'll have a better idea once I get the camera (should be tomorrow), but I can't really see a good spot that is in the centre.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

So I avoided drilling.

Bought a 2nd camera, the license plate type.

No drilling. Strong mount. Camera angle centred.

camera1sj.jpg

But its clunky. It obstructs the number plate slightly.

The other day my colleague wondered if I could get booked.

So I decided to look into it again.

camera2.jpg

Today it just clicked. :yahoo:

Just jam it between the license plate and the holder?

Double sided foam tape between camera and license plate surface to keep it straight.

Posted (edited)

What if some idiot comes along and cuts the cable? I'd be wanting to hide my cables. Some people are just assholes.

This is the camera I have on mine.

22.jpg

I drilled 3 very small 3mm diameter holes. 2 for the mounting bracket, 1 for the cable through the plastic number plate panel - no drilling through metal. Passed the wire through various gaps and holes through the metal back and connected it to the RCA connection which is run down the left side of the car. My camera is great for installing because I didn't need to drill a hole the size of the RCA plug as it has a mini connector before the RCA plug, if that makes any sense. You'll understand when you see this picture below.

1%20(6)-800x600.jpg

Edited by wushoes
Posted

I prefer to use the wireless kit and drill a hole at center of the bumper to fit the camera.

This way all the cables will be unseen.

What if some idiot comes along and cuts the cable? I'd be wanting to hide my cables. Some people are just assholes.

This is the camera I have on mine.

22.jpg

I drilled 3 very small 3mm diameter holes. 2 for the mounting bracket, 1 for the cable through the plastic number plate panel - no drilling through metal. Passed the wire through various gaps and holes through the metal back and connected it to the RCA connection which is run down the left side of the car. My camera is great for installing because I didn't need to drill a hole the size of the RCA plug as it has a mini connector before the RCA plug, if that makes any sense. You'll understand when you see this picture below.

1%20(6)-800x600.jpg

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Going to be giving this a go over the weekend sometime, had the reversing camera for a while but just couldn't be bothered with it.

Only thing I'm slightly concerned about is the door trim and front kick panel, how difficult are they to actually remove?

Posted

Only thing I'm slightly concerned about is the door trim and front kick panel, how difficult are they to actually remove?

Equivalent amount of force as popping a lid off a jar.

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