Jump to content

Believe me, Aurion 2010 is having Manufacturing Defects

Abdu Raoof

By Abdu Raoof
in Aurion / TRD Aurion Club

 Share

Recommended Posts

stanley19870425 Collaborator

stanley19870425

Posted
Posted

post-18585-127071217296_thumb.jpgHi to All,

I purchased an Aurion 2010 Australian Make in Dec. 2009.

Now its at ths e Totoya Maintenance, after a major accident on 09.03.2010.

You woudn't believe me, I hit the 20cm high barrier on the right after applying a sudden brake.

When I got out to see what happened, I can't find my RHS-Rear Wheel, later I found on the opposite side of the Traffic. The RHS-Front Wheel, Axle, Bearing, The complete Differntial Set was Damaged.

The funny thing was I was driving only at 100-110 km/h.

I strongly believe that it is due to Manufacturing Defects, either the Brakes, ABS or the Steering.

When I contacted the Toyota Agents here in Saudi Arabia, even though it has a Warranty of 3-years,

I Got only negative and bad reply from them.

I wish to inform Mr. Mark Johansen at the Australian Branch, If anyone got his Contact Number or Email ID, Please send it to me.

Contact on my Email, so that I can send you the ON-SPOT pictures.

Regards

i can see the aurion in the pic u attached is a left hand drive.

then im pretty sure it is not our aurion. more likely is an asian version camry.

lol


GSV40R Community Regular

GSV40R

Posted
Posted

what drugs are they on over there.

no let me guess , at the next service they want warranty on wheel alignment issues due to premature tyre wear ...... hahahahahaha

Adamsy Grand Master

Adamsy

Posted
Posted

lol it has to be said, that today was one of the most crappy working days I’ve ever had so to come to read this after Chris told me to check it out again has really put a smile on my face.... what’s this dude thinking and what sort of speeds do they usually consider "normal" to crash at?

CONROD Veteran

CONROD

Posted
Posted

what drugs are they on over there.

no let me guess , at the next service they want warranty on wheel alignment issues due to premature tyre wear ...... hahahahahaha

Hi GSV40R, mate you took the words right out of my mouth, when I first read it ,I thought to myself youve gotta be kidding


Silver-Aurion Grand Master

Silver-Aurion

Posted
Posted

Chill guys, no need to act like a d*ck to him, the guy just had a really bad accident! And yes "only" 110KM/h because over there much higher speeds are the norm unlike what we are doing here. Much slower speed are the norm.

Like I said in page one, it is completely unfair to say its Toyota's problem, if you did not want the car to get mangled up at 110KM/h get a tank.

Zerko Enthusiast

Zerko

Posted
Posted

It's got to be a p1sstake/joke/spam thread. He's posted the exact same thing in Intros.

dumb...

Hiro Grand Master

Hiro

Posted
Posted

i can see the aurion in the pic u attached is a left hand drive.

then im pretty sure it is not our aurion. more likely is an asian version camry.

lol

Toyota Australia assembles the cars in LHD and exports them to the Middle East, they've been doing this for years (pretty much since the Altona plant opened I think). Holden have done the same with the Commodore too, over there it was badged the Chevrolet Lumina and was LHD too.

Alonso Community Regular

Alonso

Posted
Posted

i think this guy actually has a point because how on earth did the back wheel come off in conjuction with the front!!

GSV40R Community Regular

GSV40R

Posted
Posted

i think this guy actually has a point because how on earth did the back wheel come off in conjuction with the front!!

aahhh front wheel hit gutter at 110kph whilst wheel was turned, i guess he was chasing his tale at that point and the rear came around to whack the gutter too. didn't you see the camry drift videos , lol

prometheus Mentor

prometheus

Posted
Posted

Yeah Abdu Raoof , next time you can drive your car off a high cliff and if it does not fly you can blame it on a manufacturing or design defect.

VF-X Grand Master

VF-X

Posted
Posted

Ahh... This thread is gettin nasty.. Thanks Raoof for the info, but don't think the people here take the problem as Manufacturing defect. It's hard to tell with no one here experiencing any problem with the new car.

PsychoRez Community Regular

PsychoRez

Posted
Posted

My friend's BMW 320i was canceled after hitting a Hyundai on the side when doing only 25Kmph, and he also applied the brakes.

The Agency told him the cost to repair is 23 thousand US dollars.

Now THAT's ridiculous. Such an expensive car getting canceled for such a small accident.

Just sayin.

  • 4 weeks later...
mateusz415 Advancing

mateusz415

Posted
Posted

post-18585-127071217296_thumb.jpgHi to All,

I purchased an Aurion 2010 Australian Make in Dec. 2009.

Now its at ths e Totoya Maintenance, after a major accident on 09.03.2010.

You woudn't believe me, I hit the 20cm high barrier on the right after applying a sudden brake.

When I got out to see what happened, I can't find my RHS-Rear Wheel, later I found on the opposite side of the Traffic. The RHS-Front Wheel, Axle, Bearing, The complete Differntial Set was Damaged.

The funny thing was I was driving only at 100-110 km/h.

I strongly believe that it is due to Manufacturing Defects, either the Brakes, ABS or the Steering.

When I contacted the Toyota Agents here in Saudi Arabia, even though it has a Warranty of 3-years,

I Got only negative and bad reply from them.

I wish to inform Mr. Mark Johansen at the Australian Branch, If anyone got his Contact Number or Email ID, Please send it to me.

Contact on my Email, so that I can send you the ON-SPOT pictures.

Regards

Thats not even an Aurion, its a camry

  • 2 weeks later...
imtyr1 Advancing

imtyr1

Posted
Posted

This thread scared me a bit. I thought my new car has defects too.

110kph crash may be consider "slow" on a no speed limit road.

tekkyy Mentor

tekkyy

Posted
Posted (edited)

Now THAT's ridiculous. Such an expensive car getting canceled for such a small accident.

structure strength is not the major factor in the market value of a car

at least not ahead of performance and comfort

Edited by tekkyy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing



  • Join The Club

    Join the Toyota Owners Club and be part of the Community. It's FREE!

  • Latest Postings

    1. 18

      High idling on the 2zzge even when warm (solved!)

      i am in sydney, just got 1992 tarago, same problem, 2k idle speed when engine warm, changed the whole throttle body, ECU, still same, help pls in sydney 0405987988
      moxabest in Corolla / Corolla Sportivo Club
    2. 5

      High RPM Idle after the engine warm up.

      i have same problem, already changed throttle body, ecm modle, help pls
      moxabest in Inside and Out
    3. 0

      Tow bar

      Hi guys, Just bought my new Landcruiser Prado yesterday. What is the difference between Onroad Towner and Off road Towbar
      Kiru in Prado Club
    4. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

      Generally, yes. In the 60s, and earlier, there were cars with positive grounds, so I'm always a bit hesitant to say the negative wire. It is always the one that bolts to the body. Herb
      ozieagle in Landcruiser Club
    5. 0

      2011 Land Cruiser 1VD-FTV Engine Won't Start After Overhaul

      Hi everyone, I have a 2011 Land Cruiser VDJ200 with a 1VD-FTV engine. I recently had the engine fully overhauled due to a blown head gasket. However, after the overhaul, the engine is not starting. It only cranks but doesn't fire. I've checked the following DTC codes: Internal memory EEPROM error Low rail pressure The actual rail pressure data shows: 240 bar during cranking 61 bar when ignition is off Based on these findings, I suspect the following potential causes: =Defective Diesel High-Pressure Pump =Leaking Piezoelectric Injectors =Diesel Fuel Bypassing to the DPF Circuit =Faulty Injector Drivers I'm hoping for some expert advice to help diagnose and resolve this problem I'm seeking expert advice on how to troubleshoot and resolve this issue. Any suggestions or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
      kevin200 in Landcruiser Club
    6. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

      Okay this might be dumb but it the ground the negative?
      citrus__grove in Landcruiser Club
    7. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

      Disconnecting batteries, ALWAYS disconnect the ground wire first. Doing this will also disconnect power, in general. Herb
      ozieagle in Landcruiser Club
    8. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

      Hey guys, I’m wanting to disconnect my current winch, lightbar and UHF as I have new plans. I’ve installed a winch previously on another car so I get it’s a case of following the cables and disconnecting from the battery, etc but but safety wise, should I start by disconnecting the battery so the cables aren’t live orrrr? And if so how do it go this haha?
      citrus__grove in Landcruiser Club
    9. 1

      Snapping wheel and axle studs

      Put a set of standard wheels on it and your problem will disappear. It is critical that the hole in the wheel centre is a snug fit on the axle boss (without wheel nuts fitted). If your wheels are sloppy on the axle boss this allows excess force on your wheel studs and they will break, as yours are doing. If you are unsure of what to do, go to a reputable tyre shop and get assistance.
      32V8 in Landcruiser Club
    10. 0

      2zz idle / roughness when accelerating past 3k

      Hey everyone was hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction with this issue I've been facing for a while now. My Celica's idle will drop down to almost 200rpm when stationery after hitting operating temperature. Pretty much feels like it's about to stall out but never actually does. When taking off from a set of lights it almost feels like it hesitates or is down on power and then all of a sudden it lurches forward and gets a boost in power again. Then again around 1,500-3,000rpm it feels down on power and in what I can only describe in the engine feeling scratchy. Past 3,000 rpm it gets a little boost in power again but still definitely feels down on power compared to what it used to be and still has that roughness. Note lift is also not working at the moment but I have changed the lift bolts, planning on cleaning the VVT and VVTL-i OCV's New engine mounts have been installed I changed the MAF sensor about 4 years ago albeit not OEM. After doing some research my main ideas now would be a New MAF this time OEM, TPS, IACV or Coil Packs (Changed plugs 50,000km ago) Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!! :)
      ik04 in Celica Club
×
×
  • Create New...

Forums

News

Membership